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Ascent Vaporizer by DaVinci

swieder711

Well-Known Member
Still waiting for my Mass Drop Ascent.

In the meantime has anyone found a USB cable that can be used for charging the Ascent? I have 2A wall warts at home, office and car for my Samsung S4 cell phone.

It would be great to find a cable that has the round barrel on one end for the Ascent and a USB connector on the other end for my transformer.

Any suggestions?

ps: What are the specifications on the AC and auto transformers? voltage and current?
 
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swieder711,

nigel

And shepherds we shall be,for Accuracy & Discovery
In the meantime has anyone found a USB cable that can be used for charging the Ascent? I have 2A wall warts at home, office and car for my Samsung S4 cell phone.

In the original Ascent thread, DV stated they had looking into USB charging, but it just wasn't feasible/practical, I believe owing to the two batteries inside.
 
nigel,
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Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Still waiting for my Mass Drop Ascent.

In the meantime has anyone found a USB cable that can be used for charging the Ascent? I have 2A wall warts at home, office and car for my Samsung S4 cell phone.

It would be great to find a cable that has the round barrel on one end for the Ascent and a USB connector on the other end for my transformer.

Any suggestions?

ps: What are the specifications on the AC and auto transformers? voltage and current?

My charger is at home, I can't confirm from here, but I'm fairly certain the Ascent uses 12vDC for charging. USB runs 5vDC. I won't say it's impossible, but the milliamps produced by most USB outlets isn't powerful enough to charge the Ascent's huge batteries (especially if you were to convert the voltage to 12v).

Edit, as @swieder711 commented below, I'm mistaken. It's 9vDC, not 12vDC
 
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swieder711

Well-Known Member
I heard back from DaVinci customer service. The output of the AC adapter is 9 VDC, 3000mA! So much for using my 5V, 2A USB adapters with the Ascent.

I suggested that DaVinci consider using a microUSB connector for the next generation vape. I would live with longer charging times instead of having to carry another wall wart.
 
swieder711,

ttomo

Well-Known Member
Hmmm - I've never tried that. I guess as long as there's sufficient airflow. Anyone else tried not-grinding with the Ascent? I may have to give it a whirl and see how it works. You're right about the even heating though -- While I do grind, I don't stir between sessions (just press the 'puck' back down) and yet it does seem to be an even color all the way through when it's spent, confirming the even and penetrating heat.
I don't want to be mis-leading about my "pinch and drop in" method. I pinch the flowers into small, calyx-sized pieces which provides lots of surface area, but not nearly small enough to slip through the ascent's holes. I've never been a fan of grinding either; mainly because the many crystals just stay in the grinder, and because my Vapro allows me to stir and crush during use keeping all crystal on flowers and inside the bowl.

I completely agree with OF about "more production lies in more mass and surface in the load (grind), giving it time between hits for the heat to recover". And I don't mind particle, I mean, it's flower, whats not to like : ) But I get it, its like that weird maple bacon milkshake I bought... they used bacon crumbles, so every sip of the creamy maple shake was filled with chunks...just doesn't work lol. But I just avoid the particle by not grinding or crushing. Just my method for working with the device, and for me doesn't require additional additives, pieces or time and the abv is clean.

Also, because heat is constantly applied to the flower the entire time, waiting between use just allows vapor to escape out of either the top or the bottom of the ascent. I've tried thumb-capping the top, but its only partially effective. It feels more important to keep the device vertical the entire run time because of this, as well as blocking wind from the bottom grille.

I've not noticed any vapor production loss during use, even though the temp does seem to drop as OF mentioned in his tests. I do wish the ascent's temp display was real-time though. If I set the ascent to 350 or so, its a very light vapor for sipping and there's almost always a sip. But even with the device off, and GOOD flower, you still will get taste so who's to say if there's vapor there or not on low temps? I do like to breathe in regular air between sips anyway! But the ascent above 400 just constantly produces vapor/smoke. Its cloudier and it doesn't stop producing it. It gives me a slight scratchy cough, (I think I'm used to my bubbler and Vapro's slightly lower temps) and the abv is a much darker brown.


So I'm still waiting for an RMA from davinci. I requested it monday afternoon and the request shows on the site, but their's been nothing but silence on their end. Anyone have experience with the RMA process and the time it takes? I'm not used to waiting days for an RMA and its also a bit of a personal frustration that I initially paid 35$ for overnight shipping on a friday and I guess no one works on the weekends there so I didn't get the device for 4 days anyway and now its needing to be sent back. I guess I also missed a 420 sale by 5 days as well. Minor annoyances, as I told davinci, in the end, "I still want the features the ascent has to offer."
 
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gangababa

Well-Known Member
I was cleaning a glass jar, stained and sticky from use in my Ascent . It had soaked in ISO and, but for the inner corners, it was clean.
As I was using a wood toothpick to clean those points, this happened:


Now I have a "holy" jar that won't hold water. BTW, I have been restaining the jar (pic) as I enjoy the benefit of this fortuitous void (sunya-emptiness).
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
A quick update on the "air gap" issue: I wonder whether nobody corrected me when I talked about the two silicone pieces making the air tunnel inside the device. There's no silicone in there, it's just a hard plastic tube of a different (what?) nature and for some reason it has a groove 3/4 down...

I re-checked the picture of the exposed wires (page 82) and obviously the gap was at the end of the air tunnel, not at the groove level. So we can assume the bottom gap has been indeed fixed, and maybe there is no possible gap where the groove is. This is overall good news (apart that on top of silicone, we also have another plastic in our "all glass" vapor path :p)

Now we're left only with the top seal leak issue. I re-read around page 82++ and @theCerberus said he was using a silicone o-ring for the Solo and that it solved the issue. Anyone care to comment? Would you put the ring between the plastic tube and buddy rim? This is maybe an interesting solution to investigate don't you think?

PS: I was tempted to try to open the top of my device the other day...out of curiosity... but I was too affraid it wouldn't fit in place afterwards...and my gap is already bad as is, don't want to worsen it...
 
I am also still waiting on my MassDrop Ascent to arrive. I however just received my new wooden stem by Ed's TnT. The quality is incredible. The difference between the inner diameter of the upper tube and the outer diameter of the lower tube is so minimal that little to no air is able to come into the sides. Both pieces are incredibly smooth. They are surprisingly light and have a almost plastic like feel to them. I'm afraid that dropping them could easily crack them. Has anyone else had any experience with these? I feel like they are a pain to clean. Also there probably isn't a way to use any of the resin buildup you get that you can visibly see on the glass stems but isn't visible on the wooden stems, right? I can't wait for my Ascent to get here so I can try both of them out.
 

MrNaturalAZ

Tree hugging dirt worshipper
I was cleaning a glass jar, stained and sticky from use in my Ascent . It had soaked in ISO and, but for the inner corners, it was clean.
As I was using a wood toothpick to clean those points, this happened:

Now I have a "holy" jar that won't hold water. BTW, I have been restaining the jar (pic) as I enjoy the benefit of this fortuitous void (sunya-emptiness).

Interesting. Makes one wonder what sort of glass this is. Somewhere in this thread I read a report of someone's inner glass stem crumbling after an Iso soak. I'd think glass would be impervious, but apparently it is being weakened somehow. Perhaps someone among out numbers has a plausible explanation?
 
MrNaturalAZ,

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
QnO7qsu.jpg

Hm maybe we won't be able to service those batteries easily after-all... from that picture it seems it would be hard to pull them from above no? Also I read in another vape thread that removing the batteries could reset the temp calibration and lose other data...

So basically the idea for the air leak fix would be to find some silicone tubing or o-ring of that diameter...any one found something already?
 
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nigel

And shepherds we shall be,for Accuracy & Discovery
Somewhere in this thread I read a report of someone's inner glass stem crumbling after an Iso soak. I'd think glass would be impervious, but apparently it is being weakened somehow.

It is NOT because of the ISO, but because of the "soak" (or more specifically, how it was soaked, not the soaking itself). Those things are fragile as it is a very thin piece of glass. I was using a spare stem as a dampener and crumbled it. I had a friend trying the hot cocco extraction and hit the edge of the cup and broke it. I think another person shook theirs in a container and that was enough. They are fragile. if you are careful with them, they won't break. Once I broke my first one, I have just been more mindful during reclaim/cleaning and haven't had an issue.

Hm maybe we won't be able to service those batteries easily after-all...

Ah, now I see you've seen the same photo I just mentioned. :)

I'll just point out that originally, the batteries were designed to be removable. Then lawyers happened.

And my suspicion is you wouldn't want to take them out from that end anyway.
 

CarolKing

Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
I am also still waiting on my MassDrop Ascent to arrive. I however just received my new wooden stem by Ed's TnT. The quality is incredible. The difference between the inner diameter of the upper tube and the outer diameter of the lower tube is so minimal that little to no air is able to come into the sides. Both pieces are incredibly smooth. They are surprisingly light and have a almost plastic like feel to them. I'm afraid that dropping them could easily crack them. Has anyone else had any experience with these? I feel like they are a pain to clean. Also there probably isn't a way to use any of the resin buildup you get that you can visibly see on the glass stems but isn't visible on the wooden stems, right? I can't wait for my Ascent to get here so I can try both of them out.
I have the Ascent wooden stem made by Ed. I think cleaning will only involve using the pipe cleaners. I suppose you could soak the reclaim off the pipe cleaner. I don't know if that would work? Probably not a good idea to soak the wooden stems.

They feel so small and delicate, but they are hardy and able to withstand dropping or hitting against something. I suppose they could break if somebody stepped on it. I've really been enjoying my stems, I haven't put glass in the Ascent for a month or so, since I received them.

Soon I will be getting the cocobollo 14mm stem for the Ascent, and a black wood 3inch long 14mm Wong for the Solo. They should be coming in a couple of days. Use the wood. It makes the Ascent a true portable vaporizer. I love the taste and the feel of the wood.
 

gangababa

Well-Known Member
A quick update on the "air gap" issue: I wonder whether nobody corrected me when I talked about the two silicone pieces making the air tunnel inside the device. There's no silicone in there, it's just a hard plastic tube of a different (what?) nature and for some reason it has a groove 3/4 down...

PS: I was tempted to try to open the top of my device the other day...out of curiosity... but I was too affraid it wouldn't fit in place afterwards...and my gap is already bad as is, don't want to worsen it...

Passing on pictures and information, not that I'd do something like this with my Ascent.

The tool will remove the top rubbery seal. Note the curious tool holder detail.

The center tube is indeed a smooth molded potion of the larger center frame. This unit was smooth, unbroken from tight bottom seal (that wasn't pushed out, tried though) to top seal.

Top seal only rests against tube. Remove glass stem and push down on top; you feel the tube.
There isn't any complicated seal to tube mating. The seals are tight around the glass stems.

Batteries seem to have (pictures unclear) insulation disks on them. The Ascent body needs be disassembled for battery replacement.
Look for 'post-boss' detail in this pic; back of Ascent, look for chrome.

On/off switch was not fixed in place. It was carefully lifted into place in top seal recess when reassembled. That end of the rubber was pushed into place first.


Now my thoughts. As I use the Ascent with the glass stem minimally pulled out, the 2 inch overlap of the two glass pieces, the secure bottom seal and the direct easy air path mitigate against the likelihood that I am drawing convoluted air from anywhere other than the bowl.
Meanwhile, that air has already been exhaled by so many other lungs on this planet.
 

nigel

And shepherds we shall be,for Accuracy & Discovery
Passing on pictures and information, not that I'd do something like this with my Ascent.

Thank you so much for your photos and also for your observations. I'm sure that will help quite a few people here.

Now my thoughts. As I use the Ascent with the glass stem minimally pulled out, the 2 inch overlap of the two glass pieces, the secure bottom seal and the direct easy air path mitigate against the likelihood that I am drawing convoluted air from anywhere other than the bowl.
Meanwhile, that air has already been exhaled by so many other lungs on this planet.

Well said. Well said.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Excellent! Thank you for posting this. So it really would be a matter of molding a revised silicone buddy rim. It would just have to form a cylinder, maybe 3-5mm deep would suffice...and that would fit on the inside of the plastic tube.

Apparently they can mold pretty fine details (cf. the upgraded bowl seal lip, which is pretty thin) so that cylinder/tube wouldn't have to be very thick. And as you noted there's already a protruding part holding the stir tool under there...

Meanwhile I have an idea to test, will experiment when I get home!
 

Glass004

Consumer Advocate
Interesting. Makes one wonder what sort of glass this is. Somewhere in this thread I read a report of someone's inner glass stem crumbling after an Iso soak. I'd think glass would be impervious, but apparently it is being weakened somehow. Perhaps someone among out numbers has a plausible explanation?
I just had my first glass casualty. I was aware of the glass crumbling issue and have been careful to minimize soaking in ISO. I was removing a piece of inner glass for cleaning by pushing from mouthpiece end until bottom flair was available to grab with fingers. My gentle pull with fingers on the flair crushed it.
My experience would tend to implicate heat as the primary risk factor as my soaking in ISO had been minimal.
I just ordered stems from Ed's TnT.
 

EveryDayAmnesiac

Well-Known Member
I have broken two pieces of Ascent glass, both of them the bottom sleeve. Both times occurred after ISO soaks but had nothing to do with ISO, I don't think. And both times were because I was dumb enough to go jamming a fairly sturdy bamboo skewer into the holes to try to get at stubburn stains.

Since then, I've found that LONG ISO soaks and very hot water with plenty of pressure will make them clean as new, so long as you don't let 'em get too dirty to begin with. If you do, I'd probably use pipe cleaners before bamboo skewers. :ko:

Heck, I don't even have to use any salt.

:2c:
 

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker

I have soaked a bunch of the "Inner glass stems" in these 50mL vials for DAYS. Only once did I have a problem which one screen crumbled in my fingers when handling after removing from an exceptionally long soak. It was used daily for a month, so I don't know how fragile it was before the soak, I don't believe the ISO had any part in causing the stem to crumble.

That said, I still use the vials to wash and soak my stems 1 at a time (soak in grain alcohol to reclaim resin, use a second vial for washing with ISO and salt). I vigorously shake the shit out of them in these vials, have never had one glass stem physically break despite the excessive force I'm using when scrubbing with Iso and salt.
 

nigel

And shepherds we shall be,for Accuracy & Discovery
Can we all please stop saying "soak". :)
That's not the problem. It's handling that's the problem.

Now as it turns out 99% of the handling one does with the stems is cleaning them, so that's when one would expect problems. When the stems are sitting in the unit, or sitting on a shelf, they aren't being handled.

[NOTE: If you are legitimately talking about cleaning/reclaim, then go ahead and say "soak". But if you are talking about glass breakage, let's leave that out as it gives a mis-impression to others. Correlation != causation.]

I vigorously shake the shit out of them in these vials,

You are a braver man than I. :) But I guess the plastic is soft enough to to not be a hard impact for the glass. Still, I'd be wary knowing how thin the glass is at the edges of the screen. That's just me.


Since then, I've found that LONG ISO soaks and very hot water with plenty of pressure will make them clean as new, so long as you don't let 'em get too dirty to begin with. If you do, I'd probably use pipe cleaners before bamboo skewers. :ko:

I, myself, soak (yup, I'm talking about reclaim/cleaning here, so I'm following my own rule! :) ) for extended periods in Everclear. I basically leave the stems sit until I need a clean pair. So it isn't soaking for an hour or a day. It's soaking for a long time. It won't hurt to to let it sit for a long time.

When I need a clean stem, I grab it out of the Everclear and rinse whatever is left (stuck plant matter) out with hot water. That works like a charm. No pipe cleaner needed. :)

In terms of handling them, I do not just drop them into the glass Everclear jar, as I am careful about the stem impacting on the glass jar walls. I use rubber tipped tongs to both place and remove them. I'm just careful with them, and haven't had an issue since.


I was removing a piece of inner glass for cleaning by pushing from mouthpiece end until bottom flair was available to grab with fingers. My gentle pull with fingers on the flair crushed it.

I never pull on the screen part (the "flare") of the screen stem to extract it. I'll push it out with a chopstick or the like until a good bit of the stem part is out and the grab that to pull.
 

gangababa

Well-Known Member
I bought ten of these for travel cache storage. They are 4" tall and described as uncrushable; the walls are thick.
Apparently they are the 'blanks' which are turned into thin wall soda bottles.
$T2eC16h,!%290E9s37IeqeBR,vjl87!g~~60_57.JPG


The filter stem fits only wide end up. I use the vial for cleaning , sitting and gentle shaking in ISO followed by water rinse cleans up fine. One tube will store a spare set of stems, pick, jar, covers, screens, stem-plug. A tube may also hold a fair amount of prepared oven-loading.

One thinks they would be smell-proof following an alcohol wipe down after filling. But, if found, the tamper-proof seal caps certainly suggest intent to distribute. What to do?

You know, my 18 minute time-out just turned off my Ascent in my hand, apparently I can be very calm here. Even while one finger keyboarding.

Lastly, when reclaiming do I want the liquid or the sediment? I am such a newbie.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I bought ten of these for travel cache storage. They are 4" tall and described as uncrushable; the walls are thick.
Apparently they are the 'blanks' which are turned into thin wall soda bottles.

Lastly, when reclaiming do I want the liquid or the sediment? I am such a newbie.

True rumor, that's what they are. Once 'blown out' (after heating of course) they are conveyed for the most part through the bottling plant by the ring under the cap. Planet Vape sells the longer version for Solo stem transport:
http://www.planetvape.ca/travel-tube.html

You want the liquid part, some guys use coffee filter paper to get the 'sand' out. Then put it on a dish or shallow glass pan to evaporate off the solvent and scrape the residue into a lump with a razor blade.

OF
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
I bought ten of these for travel cache storage. They are 4" tall and described as uncrushable; the walls are thick.
Apparently they are the 'blanks' which are turned into thin wall soda bottles.
$T2eC16h,!%290E9s37IeqeBR,vjl87!g~~60_57.JPG


The filter stem fits only wide end up. I use the vial for cleaning , sitting and gentle shaking in ISO followed by water rinse cleans up fine. One tube will store a spare set of stems, pick, jar, covers, screens, stem-plug. A tube may also hold a fair amount of prepared oven-loading.

One thinks they would be smell-proof following an alcohol wipe down after filling. But, if found, the tamper-proof seal caps certainly suggest intent to distribute. What to do?

You know, my 18 minute time-out just turned off my Ascent in my hand, apparently I can be very calm here. Even while one finger keyboarding.

Lastly, when reclaiming do I want the liquid or the sediment? I am such a newbie.
Like @OF said if you want to use it you can just evaporate the ISO alcohol (should just be ISO and water, none of that green ISO with stuff added!!) in a dish for a day or two, and then go at it with a razor to scrape it up. I like topping off my stem loads in my Solo with a bit of reclaim. Might not taste the best but it's free and gets you stoned... plus I'm pretty sure if you wanted to, you could do a total evap, mix it with some coconut oil, and eat it. It should be decarbed (removing the COOH group from the cannabinoid molecules) so it's psychoactive if you eat it, and binds extremely well with coconut oil :D Be careful though if you eat it, this stuff can be quite potent especially if you over-dose it and have a low tolerance. A couple of my better edible experiences have been with some cupcakes that had 2 grams of hash in it... ate half and I was lit for a lot longer than I intended to be :smug:
 

MrNaturalAZ

Tree hugging dirt worshipper
I'm pretty sure if you wanted to, you could do a total evap, mix it with some coconut oil, and eat it. It should be decarbed (removing the COOH group from the cannabinoid molecules) so it's psychoactive if you eat it, and binds extremely well with coconut oil :D

With the source being ABV, doesn't that negate the need to decarb, since that's already been accomplished via the vaping heat? At least that's my understanding. And my experience - my ABV coconut oil is just dandy without extra decarboxylation.
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
With the source being ABV, doesn't that negate the need to decarb, since that's already been accomplished via the vaping heat? At least that's my understanding. And my experience - my ABV coconut oil is just dandy without extra decarboxylation.
There's no need to decarb again, what I forgot to say was "It should already be decarbed (the oil) from vaping the flower." No need to do it again if you vaped it the first time ;)
 
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