Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

sixtysix said:

is there any reason I cant just burn wax right off a coil? I built a cone coil on my old phoenix v6 RDA and just load it with oil and vape away.

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Absolutely ... that's what the OP is all about. The thread has since moved a completely different direction from "one hitter quiter" but you are on the correct path. I'd personally never cut my wax with pg or e liquid.

Phoenix v6 are my favorite. The ability to take the top half off the cart and adjustable air flow make it super easy to load and dial in your air flow for whatever style coil you're using.

mystikalghost said:

Which ones are those, exactly?

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the new replacement atomizers for thé ATmini etc (i don't remember the names as I haven't purchased them yet) have no protruding wick at all. The older ones with the little sticking out wicks are said to work great with pure Gold and ejmix liquefied wax. Does the new model atomizer with the covered wick work as well? for what type of concentrate?

@MikeHighLife IMHO there's a reason the thread migrated to more sophisticated heaters. Yes, smearing wax onto a coil generates vapor, but part of that wax is overheated and burned/combusted on the hot wire unless the temp is controlled and kept reasonable. Hence the search for better heaters.

fernand said:

@MikeHighLife IMHO there's a reason the thread migrated to more sophisticated heaters. Yes, smearing wax onto a coil generates vapor, but part of that wax is overheated and burned/combusted on the hot wire unless the temp is controlled and kept reasonable. Hence the search for better heaters.

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I've seen you claiming this before in this thread and, in my experience, it is not the case. Ive built and used coils as low as 0.5 ohms and have never experienced any burning, scorching, combustion, burnt taste, or anything like that. When built and used properly, a low resistance coil can give large, flavorful hits, similar to those attained with a torch and nail. Theoretically you could overheat and burn your dab with improper use, just like you could on a nail setup. I would consider that user error, not the fault of the coil build.

The reason I have moved away from sub ohm builds is simply because they go through oil very quickly. I can get great results from a higher resistance coil and not blow through my concentrate so quickly. I do still keep one of my RDAs setup with a low resistance build for times when I may want a huge, dab like, one hitter quitter type rip.

walrus said:

I've seen you claiming this before in this thread and, in my experience, it is not the case. Ive built and used coils as low as 0.5 ohms and have never experienced any burning, scorching, combustion, burnt taste, or anything like that. When built and used properly, a low resistance coil can give large, flavorful hits, similar to those attained with a torch and nail. Theoretically you could overheat and burn your dab with improper use, just like you could on a nail setup. I would consider that user error, not the fault of the coil build.

The reason I have moved away from sub ohm builds is simply because they go through oil very quickly. I can get great results from a higher resistance coil and not blow through my concentrate so quickly. I do still keep one of my RDAs setup with a low resistance build for times when I may want a huge, dab like, one hitter quitter type rip.

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agreed. im using a 2.8ohm coil right now for shatter/wax and love it. using such a high resistance coil really allows you to lay on the heat w/out burning. once i notice the vapor really building up i do pulse, but it might not be necessary. been running it thru glass the last coulpe of days and its great.

Are we talking about the globe style heaters right now for wax, or something else?

of course if you pulse and keep the coil from burning through. But a lot of us would like something that requires less attention to technique. If you smear-dab onto a 0.5 ohm coil at 3.7 volts and just hold the button, it doesn't take long. It sure burns on mine. If you work it you can prevent burning. If it works for you thats what you want. But a rig like @Haywood's is different, right? it can feed with no burning with no attention to it. That's what I mean.

fernand said:

of course if you pulse and keep the coil from burning through. But a lot of us would like something that requires less attention to technique. If you smear-dab onto a 0.5 ohm coil at 3.7 volts and just hold the button, it doesn't take long. It sure burns on mine. If you work it you can prevent burning. If it works for you thats what you want. But a rig like @Haywood's is different, right? it can feed with no burning with no attention to it. That's what I mean.

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Attention to technique is important no matter how you are smoking or vaping whatever herb or concentrate you use IMO. Every herb vape I've ever used has had a learning curve to find the proper technique that delivered the best performance. A ti, glass, quartz, etc nail benefits from proper seasoning, heating, dabbing temp, etc. Hell, even packing and combusting a bowl has a technique to it. Jam a big nugget in a bowl and torch the whole load and you'll get high but all hits after the first one taste pretty nasty. A little bit of care and lighter technique make a big difference.

I used to use a Cisco spec bridgeless 510 atomizer for concentrates before I got into rebuildables. It worked fine and you could load a good amount in it and vape for quite a while. I much prefer the hits I get from an rda, even at sub ohm resistance. The 510 atty wouldn't burn the concentrate, but if you load a lot, over time the taste and effect would suffer. The pool of oil sitting in the atomizer is heated and cooled over and over again darkening the oil and changing the flavor over time. The hits I got on the back end of a loaded atty tasted significantly different than freshly loaded ones and the effects differed for me as well. Old, cooked oil seemed to have a stonier more sedative effect than the heady, invigorating high of a fresh dab. They were a little more convenient to use as you had to load less often, but I prefer a liquidized concentrate in an ecig tank system for that application.

It's not like it requires a difficult, complicated technique to hit a sub ohm coil properly. Just lay off the button a bit during your draw. Most people I share with get it first try. Load a medium sized dab on the coil, get 2 or 3 tasty, massive rips, reload, repeat. That is what this thread was initially about. While I have enjoyed seeing and trying everyone's different methods and equipment, I still feel like the best possible single hit you can get from a pen type vape comes from a low resistance coil on an rda.

walrus said:

Old, cooked oil seemed to have a stonier more sedative effect than the heady, invigorating high of a fresh dab.

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That's not surprising, actually. Like you said, heating and cooling the oil over and over again degrades the quality of the oil, but the heat also degrades THC into CBN, so by the end of it whatever THC was left has probably been heated and cooled enough times to degrade into CBN, leading to stonier and more sedating effects as you noted.

fernand said:

But a rig like Haywood's is different, right? it can feed with no burning with no attention to it.

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I don't recall saying my [Joye Atty for non-liquids] rig doesn't require attention. I do recall leaving a message about how I maneuver the oil back from the edges into the wick/coil/cup with a poker every half dozen hits or so. And how I heat the metal atty shell to allow the condensed oil to drain back down to the cup area. It's a LOT better than having to reload (dab) each hit or two, but it does require a some minding and technique. Just because I can load ~ 0.2g to 0.3g and make it work doesn't mean that's how I use it most of the time. Most of the time I just load enough to fill the ceramic cup, which is good for maybe a half dozen hits; then I maneuver the oil and load a little more concentrate. I only load big amounts when I want to take it with me somewhere and don't want to bother with carrying and reloading concentrate (and I don't feel like bringing the Pure Gold rig with me).

Also, everything that @walrus mentioned is really right on the money, and it is pretty easy to burn oil, particularly oil that has been sitting in the bottom of the ceramic cup. It's also pretty easy to clean the Joye atty, and if it still retains a burnt taste, you can always chuck it and use a fresh one. (Though that's less painful when you've paid ~$2-$3 rather than $10-$12).

I am definitely not having the same success y'all have with oil-on-coils. At 6W I am generating plumes of both vapor and smoke, very satisfying especially when water filtered.

Oily-wick-in-a-coil works great for me, and does not generate smoke. But a tiny wick can only hold enough oil to get me really medicated once. As such, I have alot of hope placed on oil blends that can flow through a wick from a tank (that won't leak).

Until then, I'm going to keep hitting the Herc. Clean, tasty vapor, without leaks. I can live with the high power requirements, high upfront cost, heat-up/cool-down time, and small capacity.

@215z I agree. I am still using solids (wax, crumble, shatter, etc.) in my Luna (I don't own a Herc yet). I prefer a system that I can load enough in that I don't have to constantly reload. I am too lazy.

But the e-cig tanks we've been discussing are working very well for me with Pure Gold, and I'd like to try some CO2 oil in there too, once I can find a nice clean sample from one of my local shops.

@Quetzalcoatl i think we both know there's another factor. The many active cannabinoids, terpenes, flavonoids etc have different boiling points, making temperature a powerful control on what the vapor mostly contains. On herb vaporizers like a Solo the low temp fractions are much more alerting than the high temp vapes that tend to be more sedative. If the oil is reheated, more of the high temp fractions are left behind each time.

Because i like to vary temp depending on what i'm aiming for, like selectively distilling low temp in the morning, and higher temp to get full range in the evening, i'm not a big fan of nails, or atomizers that demand technique just for basic operation, or of full bore vape that nears combustion.

I like using a liquid pad in a temp controllable vaporizer - a damned good system. Just not ideal in stealth.

I'm not quarreling with anyone's approach. I'm still dreaming of a self feeding eGo sized atomizer that wicks or funnels wax/oil on demand and lets me choose voltage=temp. To clean you'd just fire a high temp dry burn.

fernand said:

of course if you pulse and keep the coil from burning through. But a lot of us would like something that requires less attention to technique. If you smear-dab onto a 0.5 ohm coil at 3.7 volts and just hold the button, it doesn't take long. It sure burns on mine. If you work it you can prevent burning. If it works for you thats what you want. But a rig like @Haywood's is different, right? it can feed with no burning with no attention to it. That's what I mean.

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honestly at 2.8-3ohms you can lay on the button for plenty of time. the pulsing does not take much to learn. basically as long as you let off the buton every few secs it will never burn. its very easy and very little technique needed.

Isn't it beautiful? Very curious to see how long this pure gold will last me.

mystikalghost said:

Isn't it beautiful? Very curious to see how long this pure gold will last me.

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How many ml/how much $ for the PG?

The tank itself holds ~1.5 grams of Pure Gold. Looks like there's about 0.5 gram in there now, though it "needs" to settle back down in the clearo to really tell. @mystikalghost can tell you for sure. I've been paying $30 for a half gram ampule of Pure Gold; retail price is $5 or so more.

(mystik: It does look beautiful, doesn't it. Sometimes after three or four hits I look lovingly at mine too. Oh, and my aerotank mini is in the mail )

How can Joe Schmoe 215z get Pure Gold for $30? My area dispensaries carry them for $40.

215z said:

How can Joe Schmoe 215z get Pure Gold for $30? My area dispensaries carry them for $40.

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$35 for me but will look for cheaper as often as I can. I don't want to have to spend $70 a gram. Depends on how long this lasts though.

Half a gram actually ends up below the glass so you can't even see if it's loaded. Good and bad.

Hits like a tank though. I had it at 4.0v and it was amazing.

If we mix pure gold(say about between .7g-1g) with a little bit of EJ mix to get it all(in ProTank). Will that work, or does it not mix with EJ? What about with propylene glycol?

Y'all using hemp wicks, not cotton right?

215z said:

Y'all using hemp wicks, not cotton right?

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im using ceramic in my PTs for liquid and in my RDAs for solids

Haywood said:

The tank itself holds ~1.5 grams of Pure Gold. Looks like there's about 0.5 gram in there now, though it "needs" to settle back down in the clearo to really tell. @mystikalghost can tell you for sure. I've been paying $30 for a half gram ampule of Pure Gold; retail price is $5 or so more.

(mystik: It does look beautiful, doesn't it. Sometimes after three or four hits I look lovingly at mine too. Oh, and my aerotank mini is in the mail )

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Picked up a ZNA over the weekend (and quickly canceled my Hana Modz clone pre-order). Tried the PG in the Aerotank Mini at about 10 watts (around 4.6v @ 2.1ohm) and it knocks me on my ass pretty quick. Looks like this tank is going to last me quite a while at this pace. I've noticed anything above 10 watts and I start getting a slight burnt taste.

Wow, I love FC.

I just wanted to add that after years of using my dart, it was lost, and I've had a really hard time finding a replacement. I knew basic JT atties could be used for wax, but I couldn't load a 1/2 gram and have it last a week in one like a dart. I tried rebuildables, but found some/most chambers to be to big to manage. I've been using a glass globe for awhile but never outside of my house because of the crack pipe looks. Then my friend gave me his dead Snoop G Herbal Pen...

This thing was a joke as far as vaping herbs go, but I cleaned and rebuilt it for concentrates with 30g kanthal and 2mm eco wool. I didn't use 28g wire because I wanted to keep the ohms up and I cant check the resistance with my 510 devices... anyway..... This pen is now a beast! It's fairly discreet... but some people call me out on it . The ceramic dish is a godsend, and I can load a large amount of wax without it going to waste, sometimes I overfill it and the wax boils instead of vapes. I'm thinking I should try a ceramic wick, but I really wanna rip the whole thing apart and make a box mod hahahah.

Anyway in this thread I've seen some ecig tanks being used, either with pure gold or ejuice mixes. Is there anyway I can condense/dilute my wax to properly use in a liquid tank? I dont have access to pure gold or premixed thcjuice, but I can get crumbly yellow wax and I know how to DIY ejuice, but my results make a milky yellow liquid (that works) but there is obvious separation, which I can get around with a syringe. It just doesn't look as clear or dark as some pictures I've seen in this thread, I don't know what to do with the waste. It looks like milky pure gold :/

doc said:

Wow, I love FC.

I just wanted to add that after years of using my dart, it was lost, and I've had a really hard time finding a replacement. I knew basic JT atties could be used for wax, but I couldn't load a 1/2 gram and have it last a week in one like a dart. I tried rebuildables, but found some/most chambers to be to big to manage. I've been using a glass globe for awhile but never outside of my house because of the crack pipe looks. Then my friend gave me his dead Snoop G Herbal Pen...

This thing was a joke as far as vaping herbs go, but I cleaned and rebuilt it for concentrates with 30g kanthal and 2mm eco wool. I didn't use 28g wire because I wanted to keep the ohms up and I cant check the resistance with my 510 devices... anyway..... This pen is now a beast! It's fairly discreet... but some people call me out on it . The ceramic dish is a godsend, and I can load a large amount of wax without it going to waste, sometimes I overfill it and the wax boils instead of vapes. I'm thinking I should try a ceramic wick, but I really wanna rip the whole thing apart and make a box mod hahahah.

Anyway in this thread I've seen some ecig tanks being used, either with pure gold or ejuice mixes. Is there anyway I can condense/dilute my wax to properly use in a liquid tank? I dont have access to pure gold or premixed thcjuice, but I can get crumbly yellow wax and I know how to DIY ejuice, but my results make a milky yellow liquid (that works) but there is obvious separation, which I can get around with a syringe. It just doesn't look as clear or dark as some pictures I've seen in this thread, I don't know what to do with the waste. It looks like milky pure gold :/

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Liquidizer sells EJ Mix which is reported to not separate from hash oils.

Quetzalcoatl said:

Liquidizer sells EJ Mix which is reported to not separate from hash oils.

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the shit works perfectly.

www.liquidizer.com