Vitolo

Vaporist
What a glorious medicated feeling I experience as I write.
FlashVape has proven itself a most versatile tool once again today.
I always test units out at the top.
FV originally was a conductive vape without use of Stage 2.
I got in the mental habit... frame of thinking that I had to go high!
I no longer use FV without S2 often at all.
I also no longer use my batteries except when I am doing an FV demonstration for groups of patients.
(gotta show how it would work on the move!)
Today I used FVS2 at 5.5 on the dial...
The vapor was thin, but delicious.
I was able to hold down the power button for as long as I wished, with impunity, and I just kept sucking up the light flavorful vapor.
This Morning, FVS2 was King of taste!
I am so delighted, because I have that alert, low temperature buzz with that special
convective flavor upon my tongue (and brain)
Thanks FV!
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
@Vitolo and I headed in opposite directions this morning. I replaced my heater screen, and cranked the PA up to 10 without anything loaded as a test. Almost immediately I could see vapour rising up from the heater. Since I knew the bowl was coated in resin this didn't surprise me. I took a hit and got fairly thick vapour without effort.

If you have the PA, this turns out to be a neat way to use reclaim without actually reclaiming. The taste isn't bad and the production for the first three or four hits isn't bad. This doesn't work well with batteries because you have to heat longer for each hit. With the PA the vapour died out after five hits, the last one needing 15 seconds of power at 10. With a battery in my other FV, I only managed one good hit no matter how long I held the button down.

I'm sure that my 4/20 nugget has a little to do with this, but I'm not sure how much. I vaped it in my FV+PA, and in my experience oil causes resin to build up faster. That nugget lasted me two full days and had a lot of oil in it. I know the total weight of it was .07g but I don't know the proportions of BHO to hash to bud. At any rate, the FV+PA probably had a little more resin than the FV on battery power, but I think the difference is due more to the power of the PA.
 

as

Well-Known Member

Do you have a very early modal if so they thread locked the threads. I believe @pakalolo used a vice to secure the flash vape and a difrent tool to undo it. if I remember right @OF recommended trying to use a strap wrench to un do it please post up tho if you get not open and how you did it.
 
as,

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member

I have two FVs. One of them is one of the earliest FVs and was not intended to be taken apart. As as says, they used Locktite on the threads. You can overcome it if you use enough force. You will have to be careful if you don't want to damage the FV since it is made from aluminum, which is a fairly soft metal. I protected mine with rubber bands, which also provided better grip. I am talking here about unscrewing the bezel that holds the ceramic bowl.

The one I referred to is actually a later model that is intended to be field-repairable. Although the bezel is screwed on tightly, I could undo it by hand once I used a rubber glove to give me better grip. I took it apart because it would no longer heat up enough even with the power at 10 on the PA.

This happens when the heater screen develops holes:

dj7hRNT.jpg

The holes you see on the right are from arcing caused by uneven contact with the copper connecting rod. If you never take your FV apart, you will probably not have this issue, but I've taken mine apart several times and this is the consequence of not reassembling it properly. I've since learned a trick from @FlashVAPE that should eliminate this problem: after I've tightened it by hand as much as I can, I tap the circumference of the bezel all the way round. I can then screw it down a little tighter. Rinse and repeat until the tapping doesn't yield any more slack, usually after two or three repetitions. Unless you know you need to replace the heater screen, I strongly recommend not removing the bezel.
 

Jonah Hex

Well-Known Member
Love the PA!
Have it on a constant setting of 10.
I no longer use any tabbed screen and just vaporize off the heating element screen.
I do this on battery power as well. Another benefit of using it this way is that the battery lasts much longer because it doesn't have to heat up the extra screen. Instant vaporization by just touching power button about one second. Been using it this way for the last few weeks and haven't had to replace a heater screen. I purchased a sheet of SS screen and am just cutting my own replacements using an original as a template for when I need to replace it. Haven't had to use any new screens for weeks. Currently have 3 Flashvapes. One in the car and one permanently connected to the PA and a spare. No burning when you hit it this way after a little practice. I shake or stir after each dose to redistribute.
Also got the screen install tool and use it to clean the screen without removing it. I just place it against the screen to hold it down and use an iso 99 soaked paper towel and twist it against the screen. I clean almost daily and it takes 30 seconds. I have replaced all my glass tubes with just high temp food grade silicon tubing. No more broken stems. Simple is much better.
Just love this thing!
Into the eternal calm... :cool:
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Love the PA!
Have it on a constant setting of 10.
I no longer use any tabbed screen and just vaporize off the heating element screen.
I do this on battery power as well. Another benefit of using it this way is that the battery lasts much longer because it doesn't have to heat up the extra screen. Instant vaporization by just touching power button about one second. Been using it this way for the last few weeks and haven't had to replace a heater screen. I purchased a sheet of SS screen and am just cutting my own replacements using an original as a template for when I need to replace it. Haven't had to use any new screens for weeks. Currently have 3 Flashvapes. One in the car and one permanently connected to the PA and a spare. No burning when you hit it this way after a little practice. I shake or stir after each dose to redistribute.
Also got the screen install tool and use it to clean the screen without removing it. I just place it against the screen to hold it down and use an iso 99 soaked paper towel and twist it against the screen. I clean almost daily and it takes 30 seconds. I have replaced all my glass tubes with just high temp food grade silicon tubing. No more broken stems. Simple is much better.
Just love this thing!
Into the eternal calm... :cool:

I've also gone without a tabbed screen, but only for experiments. I think what you're doing is fine, however, since I've only replaced a tabbed screen once and that was because I didn't feel like flattening the old one again. I've never had to clean a tabbed screen, so I'd have no fear of going without. The tabbed screen is worth considering for any concentrate that might clog the heater screen, but I've done BHO dabs directly on the heater screen with no problems whatsoever.

I still think the tabbed screen is a terrific idea, since it is the key to turning the FV into a pure convection device.
 

Jonah Hex

Well-Known Member
Should have mentioned that I actually do put a screen in when I use oil or hash.
Keeps the heater screen clean that way.
 
Jonah Hex,

juanavape

Well-Known Member
The tale of two Flashvapes :

I've owned one of these units sinse January of this year. Never went for the S2 kit until last month but wasn't getting the "clouds" that others were getting but thought that it was due to my technic or lack of experience with the S2 spacer but then my FV burnt out with one speck in one corner glowing brightly and the rest of the heating screen barely heating at all. I assumed a burnt out heating screen but could not break the connection where it's screwed together so contacted FV headquarters. As I'd already had a minor (power switch) glitch (possibly of my own doing), FV decided to just reboot my experience with a brand new unit. Once again the super CS we've come to expect from these guys, they even sent it proirity post so it was here in 2 days, very impressive B U T.... HOLY CRAP this second FV is a whole new ball game, I guess my old one really was defective or else this one's on steroids.

First test drive : Istalled the S2 spacer and a screen, filled her up, put in a fresh S2 battery and had instant combustion, tried again, instant combustion, once more, a quick hit after about 1 second, and then another combustion hit..... hhhhmmmm.....Ignition after 1 to 2 seconds seemed a bit hot. Next I tried it with a fresh 3.2 battery. That performed acceptably, did a whole session on one battery with good results. Next I'll try it on the PA device but i'm here to tell you there are some big variations between units it seems or maybe just the heating screen and/or way they're installed ?

I'll get back here in a week or 2 and let all know if it mellows out a bit or if I have a new hotter faster real "cloudmaker" now !

Happy Vaping.

Later....... Tried a pinch with the PA, seems 7 now does what 9.5 did before.
 
juanavape,
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cat420

Well-Known Member
back to conduction mode with S2 batteries and one more bottom screen is working fine...is the 2nd spacer that get broken (1rst was the first tiny model). Also with the biger updated spacer I have to keep the poor FV on green for 15 or more seconds before geting any reasonable clouds...in conduction with 3.7v batteries after 4 seconds I get nice clouds...
By the way : I need to buy new batteries for the S2 FV. Were I live I can't find them : they only sell the charger with the batteries and I have already two chargers...having them shiped overseas ll take few weeks...does any one know of a battery industrial brand that work fine with the S2 FV ?
 
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cat420,

as

Well-Known Member
4 seconds in conduction mode with s2 battery's I get combustion in 2 seconds

I have bin using my FV with some Sony vtc3 30a 3.7v batterys In condution mode really liking it like this
This is how I hit my FV
Push in the button
1 long second
Then draw fast
Let go of button when I see vapor
Done
All in all takes about 2-3 seconds per hit


Also tried inverting the FV and using it that way but think I like it more in condition mode
I am going to get the spacer to try but for now I like it how it is performing
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
back to conduction mode with S2 batteries and one more bottom screen is working fine...is the 2nd spacer that get broken (1rst was the first tiny model). Also with the biger updated spacer I have to keep the poor FV on green for 15 or more seconds before geting any reasonable clouds...in conduction with 3.7v batteries after 4 seconds I get nice clouds...
By the way : I need to buy new batteries for the S2 FV. Were I live I can't find them : they only sell the charger with the batteries and I have already two chargers...having them shiped overseas ll take few weeks...does any one know of a battery industrial brand that work fine with the S2 FV ?

Are you saying that your S2 spacer (version 2) broke? If so, how? The only broken one I'm aware of is the one I broke by dropping something on it.

When my FVs started to run cool like that, the cause turned out to be a deteriorating heater screen. This is something you can fix yourself, even if yours is one of the early models that has Locktite on the threads. Heater screens aren't expensive but you have to take care replacing one. If you don't screw the bezel back on tight enough, the contact between the heater screen and the copper rods will not be tight enough, and you will get arcing that will quickly burn a hole in the screen and ruin it. See my post above on this page for more.

FlashVAPE sells batteries without the charger. Other batteries that should work well include the Panasonic CGR18650CH (discontinued but you can sometimes still find them on Amazon or Fasttech), the Panasonic NCR18650PF or NCR18650PD, and the Sony 18650VTC4.
 

cat420

Well-Known Member
Thanks Pakalolo, yes actually the 2nd spacer I broke cauz it drops on the floor...but you know the process of ordering a new one etc. is pritty long. I would like to see if the heater screen is damaged but I am a disaster with this kind of "manual" job..so I m pritty sure that if I ll open my early model FV I ll never be able to put it together any more..I v tried once to open it but I was not able to unscrew it...I know FV sells batteries but with shipping costs etc. it ll cost even more than purchase charger and batteries here were I am, plus it ll take few weeks...I ll give a try to the models you have suggested. Do they charge fine in the FV charger ? Thanks again !
 
cat420,

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Thanks Pakalolo, yes actually the 2nd spacer I broke cauz it drops on the floor...but you know the process of ordering a new one etc. is pritty long. I would like to see if the heater screen is damaged but I am a disaster with this kind of "manual" job..so I m pritty sure that if I ll open my early model FV I ll never be able to put it together any more..I v tried once to open it but I was not able to unscrew it...I know FV sells batteries but with shipping costs etc. it ll cost even more than purchase charger and batteries here were I am, plus it ll take few weeks...I ll give a try to the models you have suggested. Do they charge fine in the FV charger ? Thanks again !

Yes, the batteries I listed will all charge in the stock FV S2 charger.

The S2 spacer will work just fine if you have all the pieces. I used the one I broke until I got a replacement, since the tabbed screen holds everything in place nicely.

If you have an early FV then the threads were sealed with Locktite. You can force it open but it requires a lot of force. I opened mine by clamping the body with vise grips, using rubber bands to provide grip and protection from marking the FV. I would not recommend doing this if you feel uncomfortable. Your alternative is to contact FlashVAPE for service, which unfortunately might involve shipping the unit back to them.
 
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cat420

Well-Known Member
I have found the panasonic CGR18650CH . I have read few reviews and some of them say they are a big thick than the others so some time is difficult to place them in...
Hope ll not be the case with FV. All others models you have suggested were also available but in the specifications they were listed as 3.6 v and not 3.7...duno if this difference would be a problem but without knowing I decided for the above model.
 
cat420,

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
I have found the panasonic CGR18650CH . I have read few reviews and some of them say they are a big thick than the others so some time is difficult to place them in...
Hope ll not be the case with FV. All others models you have suggested were also available but in the specifications they were listed as 3.6 v and not 3.7...duno if this difference would be a problem but without knowing I decided for the above model.

All of the batteries I listed will fit the FV without a problem. The 3.6/3.7V is not an issue either.
 

Jonah Hex

Well-Known Member
I have found the panasonic CGR18650CH . I have read few reviews and some of them say they are a big thick than the others so some time is difficult to place them in...
Hope ll not be the case with FV. All others models you have suggested were also available but in the specifications they were listed as 3.6 v and not 3.7...duno if this difference would be a problem but without knowing I decided for the above model.

I have 8 of these Panasonic CGR18650CH in rotation and they work very well with the Flashvape.
 

cat420

Well-Known Member
One doubt : in the S2 spacer there are two screens . If I well undestand one should go directly on the
bottom directly above the fixed screen and the second one goes on top of the spacer. Is this correct or one of the two screens is just meant as a replacement ?
I am using both of them as described in the first option and actually it takes pretty long time to see clouds...am I doing something foolish ?
Thanks...
 
cat420,

Bvapst

Well-Known Member
Hi,
You've got the heating screen fixed in your FV. On top of that the ceramic spacer. On top of the spacer, you should put one tabbed screen : and that's all ! No removable screen should be between heating screen and spacer !
 

juanavape

Well-Known Member
Just an update on on my newer Flashvape. It's still running hot and strong(er than my first one ever did). Working amazingly and within the last few days I've been experimenting with using a whip.... Not only can I see into the bowl much better but it also seems to give better draw control and for whatever reason the (top) filter screen doesn't seem to gum up as much. Ordered the proper whip and mini bubbler from the FV site today. Anybody happen to know the I/O diameter of this tubing for future reference ?
 
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juanavape,

FlashVAPE

...fast and efficient ! http://flashvape.com
Manufacturer
The custom made, medical grade silicone tube used in the FV whip is 7.5mm OD, and 5.5mm ID (1mm thick). It is the same material as used to make the new flexible silicone tip for the glass draw tube (cut to 15mm length).

I hope this helps!

:)
 
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