Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

2clicker

Observer
i get 3-7 nice pulls from a dab depending on how large. sometimes more when im not really ripping it. i prefer to load between dabs instead of have the oil get heated up and cool down a bunch of times before it actually vapes. this keeps every hit a tasty one.

loading as you go is the way go IMO.
 
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2clicker,
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Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
Haywood, the thing I don't understand is why oil didn't soak into the SS mesh surround the first time you warmed it. Or did it, and you just kept adding wax and let it saturate it? All the coil dabbing requires manually loading every hit or two. What you have there is the dream funnel.
I don't know what to tell you. I did tamp down the mesh after removing the bridge (and the picture I uploaded is right after I ripped out the bridge, but before I tamped it down). I wasn't thinking about making the mesh less permeable, I was thinking about pushing down the mesh where the bridge I just ripped out used to be connected. The darning needle routine I use to move the oil back onto the coil does have the side effect of turning the top of the mesh into a more or less solid surface, but I don't recall sacrificing much concentrate the first time I use a new Joye.

In response to a question you asked a while ago, I dug out my scale that reads down to a hundredth of a gram, and the slightly larger than a wooden-match-head size load of my usual concentrate probably weighs between 0.05g and 0.1g. And though I get lots of hits before I reload, it's not like an all day sucker. After a half dozen or so hits, it's time to drop another wooden-match-head size piece (or drop) of concentrate in. It's not magic, but it is efficient, and certainly easier than a dab-at-a-time system. When I want to fill as much as possible (maybe 0.15g), I can double the number of hits I get before refilling, but care is required when filling the atty that much; stuff can go wrong, like your drip tip clogging because it's only 1mm from the oil. It's a tiny chamber.

It's not ideal though. You mentioned the word funnel in your message, and this rig is really not a funnel, hence the need for the tool and manually moving the surrounding oil back onto the coil. A true funnel design would be nice! So would a solid or mesh ceramic wick, as opposed to whatever's in there now. Trouble is, it's near impossible to rebuild a Joye atty. That's why 2clicker is experimenting with using a tank system as a super atty. He can wind whatever coil he wants, he can chose whatever wick he wants, and he winds up with a super rda that is tuned for concentrates and has a glass shell so he can see what's going on while he's vaping. It just looks like a tank... My TET atty's, though not without their flaws, have full ceramic surround, a ceramic wick, and a ceramic top piece, and they're unrivaled for their flavor, at least when clean. They made a 6v core as well, and when used with care (it's easy to burn oil), it really brings a smile to your face.

Oh, and @2clicker, check out Rip Tripper's latest video on a stovetop coil. Looks like it might be just the thing for concentrates. Forget the cotton, and use a thinner wire with more turns, and let it taper down a tiny bit in the center, to make a natural funnel...
 
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2clicker

Observer
the slightly larger than a wooden-match-head size load of my usual concentrate probably weighs between 0.05g and 0.1g. And though I get lots of hits before I reload, it's not like an all day sucker. After a half dozen or so hits, it's time to drop another wooden-match-head size piece (or drop) of concentrate in. It's not magic, but it is efficient, and certainly easier than a dab-at-a-time system.

i would say i load mine with the same size load and would consider this a dab a a time. just out of curiosity what do you consider a dab at a time?

That's why 2clicker is experimenting with using a tank system as a super atty. He can wind whatever coil he wants, he can chose whatever wick he wants, and he winds up with a super rda that is tuned for concentrates and has a glass shell so he can see what's going on while he's vaping. It just looks like a tank...

yup. i keep going back and forth between my IGO-L and my PT2 both with a 3ohm coil. both perform pretty much the same. the PT2 was nice at first because i could see the action inside, but after about a .5g through it the glass gets all condensed on and that ends the visual party. the advantage i think the PT2 still does have over the IGO is that it has a much longer airpath from coil to lips. this helps cool the vapor a bit before getting to my throat and lungs. both work very well and taste great thanks to the braided ceramic wick. i had my IGO with a 3ohm coil at a party last sat and sharing with some friends. everyone found it pretty easy to get nice fulfilling hits. and every person that used it complimented on the flavor.

thanks for the heads up on the new coil video! ill be checking it out.
 
2clicker,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
Misleading choice of words. I meant as compared to when one dab = one hit (like on a nail). In any case, I can load more than just fits on the coil and in the ceramic cup. (two or three times as much). I do have to mind it a few times when I load that much, but at least I can if necessary due to circumstance or convenience.
 

fernand

Well-Known Member
@Haywood I would guess that you get more mileage out of a "match head". If it's loaded onto a coil, it's easy to pull it as a single hit. If your coil is submerged, it's sizzling, running cooler, and the same dab could give several tokes. If there were enough slope to create an actual funnel around the submerged coil, with nowhere for the melted oil to escape, that might be an interesting beast ...
 
fernand,

Puffers

Micro-Climate Mastermind
9yzy8eza.jpg

The VariAnt by Vicious Ant

New bad ass looking box mod coming out that IMO kinda sets the stage on where we are headed with APV box mods. Capable of up to 120w and 8.4v. It's too rich for my blood right now ($500) but I am sure china and attack of clones will be in full swing before we know it.

@BLAZING OG watt for watt this makes the beast mod box look like an ego lol
 
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2clicker

Observer
Misleading choice of words. I meant as compared to when one dab = one hit (like on a nail). In any case, I can load more than just fits on the coil and in the ceramic cup. (two or three times as much). I do have to mind it a few times when I load that much, but at least I can if necessary due to circumstance or convenience.

gotcha

@Haywood I would guess that you get more mileage out of a "match head". If it's loaded onto a coil, it's easy to pull it as a single hit. If your coil is submerged, it's sizzling, running cooler, and the same dab could give several tokes. If there were enough slope to create an actual funnel around the submerged coil, with nowhere for the melted oil to escape, that might be an interesting beast ...

id imagine a heated funnel (to keep oils viscosity down) that deposits directly onto the coil.

9yzy8eza.jpg

The VariAnt by Vicious Ant

New bad ass looking box mod coming out that IMO kinda sets the stage on where we are headed with APV box mods. Capable of up to 120w and 8.4v. It's too rich for my blood right now ($500) but I am sure china and attack of clones will be in full swing before we know it.

@BLAZING OG watt for watt this makes the beast mod box look like an ego lol

i cant get into box mods. they just look clunky and less fun to use to me. im sure it work great tho.
 

fernand

Well-Known Member
The mod box is just a battery. I'm surprised at all the airplay the watts and what have you get. It's just a battery with a switch. I suppose if we could truly nail (pardon the pun) the cooker part of the equation, the big battery boxes are gonna be ready with like enough amperage to crank - and start - a 1958 Thunderbird V8 engine.

But actually this is pussy stuff. I worked on high power systems for a while where the microprocessors were firing control chips that passed 900 amps to big motors. A bug in my code caused the system to go instantly from 0 to 1100 amps. Man, in the 100 milliseconds before all the breakers blew and the whole plant went pitch black, in the flash I saw the cables big like your forearm, lying on the floor, jump up like a foot off the deck -- to align themselves with the earth's magnetic poles! Now THAT is what we need in the ultimate one hit quitter!

@Haywood, whatever those magic atties of yours are, you hang on to them, y'all hear! I'm looking for a way to get/make an inherently impermeable surround. One problem with prototyping wax systems is a little like the guys who service those underwater oil rigs in the north sea: they can only dive so much before they can't dive no mo'. Need a break too often.
 
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fernand,

2clicker

Observer
The mod box is just a battery. I'm surprised at all the airplay the watts and what have you get. It's just a battery with a switch.

oh i am fully aware of what it is. its the same as any mod, but with dif features (of which i would never use) and in a dif shape (other than a tube). i just dont like the form factor of them mostly. i would not even think about trying to carry a box mod in my pocket over a nice slim tube mod. just personal pref. i am surprised by how many people like them tho.
 

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
@fernand: So I decided to clean my first Joye atty today, and I thought maybe it would be informative to weigh it before and after. My cleaning procedure involves immersing the atty in boiling water for 10 minutes, mouthpiece end down so that the steam bubbles come out of the air hole in the 510 end, which causes desirable agitation inside the atty, helping to dislodge stuff. Then I "pump" everclear through it for 10 minutes using a large syringe and an attachment that allows everclear to be pumped in (and out) via the air hole in the bottom of the atty. Works great. Here's a picture of the atty after I cleaned it (but before I dry burned the wick and fixed up the errant piece of braid at the top. Note that my "theory" that scraping oil had turned the mesh into a solid surface appears to have been mostly wrong...

Clean_zps651c3635.jpg


Pre-cleaning I vaped what was left in the atty until I really couldn't get any more, and there was almost nothing left to scrape off the sides or braid, and then I weighed it. Came out to 3.99 grams. After cleaning, it weighed 3.85 grams, which is exactly the same as they weigh new (I checked). So it appears that the priming amount for one of these is ~ 0.14 grams. I would estimate that 0.04 grams of that was concentrate still on the inside of the shell (I didn't really scrape it off 100%), and the rest (0.1 gram) was in the oval cups where the coil leads enter the ceramic, and coating the air hole under the coil (which you can't see in this picture), and in the mesh.

:science:
 

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
How about a "one" hitter that you only have to load once a month?

Here's my first report of using a genuine Kanger Mini ProTank 3 with liquified concentrates (in this case, undiluted Pure Gold, which is really thick stuff, easily as thick or thicker than honey). I had a hard time deciding if this post should be in a new thread, or in this thread, or in the "best clearo for pure gold" thread, and the reason I'm leaving it here is because I think it's really relevant to what we've been talking about the past few pages and it applies to any concentrate that is liquid enough to flow, not just Pure Gold. There's been much talk in this and other threads about how to mix your concentrates with, e.g., EJMix or Vegetable Glycerin or Propylene Glycol, etc. so I won't get into it in this message. Anyway, that's why I'm posting this here.

Before I put the first drop of Pure Gold into the mPT3, I wanted to test how well it did with both thin and thick liquids. I changed out the stock 1.5Ω dual coil atty with a genuine Kanger 2.0Ω dual coil PT3 atty, as I only had two of the 1.5Ω attys, but I had five of the 2.0Ω ones, and I wanted to save the 1.5Ω attys for when I loaded Pure Gold. So I loaded 100% Vegetable Glycerin into it, and carried it around for a few days, taking puffs every few hours when I remembered. (Barf; vaping pure VG sucks, even when you just take it into your mouth before exhaling). I went through two tanks of VG (~3ml) with no dry hits and no leaks. I wasn't expecting any leaks (the VG is really thick stuff), but I was happy to discover that the factory 2.0Ω dual coil atty in the mPT3 was able to wick the 100% VG well.

Then I emptied and cleaned out the mPT3, which is really, really easy to do, and filled it with 100% Propylene Glycol. This is really thin stuff, not quite as thin as water, but pretty thin. I carried it around for two days as well, puffing away, and it didn't leak at all (and of course, wicked just fine). For my final test, I loaded it with one of my favorite e-juices (a 70%PG/30%PG blend, pretty thin), and flew from the east coast to the west coast with in my pocket, used it (and refilled it) the whole time I was on the west coast, and flew with it back to the east coast three days later. Worked 100%, leaked 0%.

So I was sold.

I cleaned it out again, switched the factory 2.0Ω dual coil I had been using with a factory 1.5Ω dual coil, and filled it up with three ampules of Pure Gold (a gram and a half worth, which in this case is also a ml and a half). This was scary as dealing with reclaiming a ml and a half of Pure Gold if this didn't work was not something I was looking forward to. Even heated up to, say, 105°F, Pure Gold is a horrible sticky mess to deal with.

Fortunately, it worked. And it worked great. It works significantly better than my old Pure Gold champ, the GotVapes Sapphire. Much much airier draw. Much more control of the density of the vapor and the throat hit. And more importantly, much better flavor. Only one thing wasn't ideal; the 1.5Ω load was too low for all but my sophisticated mods. It wouldn't work on any of my eGo batteries, including the outstanding Vision Spinner variable voltage eGo batteries. Bummer. It's not that the 1.5Ω mPT3 atty requires a lot of power or anything, it's happy with 7.5 - 10.0 watts, it's that its resistance is too low for the tiny batteries. On the mod I'd been using, I was only running 7.5 watts most of the time.

So I took out the mouthpiece, turned the mPT3 upside down, put it under my arm (yeah, yeah, I have a double boiler, but bite me), and let the gram and a half of Pure Gold settle into the top section of the tank. I took off the bottom of the mPT3 (the same way you fill it), unscrewed the 1.5Ω atty and replaced it with one of the 2.0Ω attys. Put everything back together, turned the mPT3 back over, and put it back under my arm for a couple of minutes. Put it on a battery, took a half dozen unpowered hits, set the battery for 7.5 watts, and... Everything worked perfectly, and now the mPT3 worked on all of my batteries, even the tiny fixed voltage 350mAh eGo I have for stealth. Wheee!

I used the 1.5Ω dual coil atty for about 24 hours before I switched it out for the 2.0Ω dual coil atty. It worked just fine, but I had my battery set for its absolute minimum, and even then sometimes I got a bigger hit for the amount I sucked than I liked. So using the factory 2.0Ω dual coil atty is a much better choice for me. I now have range to adjust any of my vv batteries both below what I like, and higher than I like, which is perfect.

I'm still wrapping my head around being able to fill the mPT3 with $100 worth of Pure Gold, and not having to refill it for a couple of months!!! Oh, and the used 1.5Ω atty that I took out of the mPT3 that was full of Pure Gold? I weighed it when I took it out and then I weighed it again after it had soaked and been agitated in Everclear (95% ethanol). Looks like I only lost 0.04 grams to changing out the atty even though the tank was full. I am not only surprised and pleased by how easy the mPT3 is to clean, but how easy it is too get to (and modify) the atty, and how little waste there is if one has to change out an atty.

A couple of caveats: I haven't been using the mPT3 long enough to know how it will do over a long period of time, and whether the atty will clog up and screw up the draw or start leaking; this is the beginning of the story. Be careful not to lose the tiny O-Rings when you clean your mPT3. And one of the reasons that I used the word "factory" so much in this post is because Kanger stuff, including their replacement attys, gets counterfeited all the time. I made sure I was getting genuine stuff; you should too.

Next adventure with the mPT3 will be to wind my own coil using some ceramic wick instead of the factory silica wick. Probably not right away though, all this testing has me too stoned right now.

:)
 

walrus

Well-Known Member
How about a "one" hitter that you only have to load once a month?

Here's my first report of using a genuine Kanger Mini ProTank 3 with liquified concentrates (in this case, undiluted Pure Gold, which is really thick stuff, easily as thick or thicker than honey). I had a hard time deciding if this post should be in a new thread, or in this thread, or in the "best clearo for pure gold" thread, and the reason I'm leaving it here is because I think it's really relevant to what we've been talking about the past few pages and it applies to any concentrate that is liquid enough to flow, not just Pure Gold. There's been much talk in this and other threads about how to mix your concentrates with, e.g., EJMix or Vegetable Glycerin or Propylene Glycol, etc. so I won't get into it in this message. Anyway, that's why I'm posting this here.

Before I put the first drop of Pure Gold into the mPT3, I wanted to test how well it did with both thin and thick liquids. I changed out the stock 1.5Ω dual coil atty with a genuine Kanger 2.0Ω dual coil PT3 atty, as I only had two of the 1.5Ω attys, but I had five of the 2.0Ω ones, and I wanted to save the 1.5Ω attys for when I loaded Pure Gold. So I loaded 100% Vegetable Glycerin into it, and carried it around for a few days, taking puffs every few hours when I remembered. (Barf; vaping pure VG sucks, even when you just take it into your mouth before exhaling). I went through two tanks of VG (~3ml) with no dry hits and no leaks. I wasn't expecting any leaks (the VG is really thick stuff), but I was happy to discover that the factory 2.0Ω dual coil atty in the mPT3 was able to wick the 100% VG well.

Then I emptied and cleaned out the mPT3, which is really, really easy to do, and filled it with 100% Propylene Glycol. This is really thin stuff, not quite as thin as water, but pretty thin. I carried it around for two days as well, puffing away, and it didn't leak at all (and of course, wicked just fine). For my final test, I loaded it with one of my favorite e-juices (a 70%PG/30%PG blend, pretty thin), and flew from the east coast to the west coast with in my pocket, used it (and refilled it) the whole time I was on the west coast, and flew with it back to the east coast three days later. Worked 100%, leaked 0%.

So I was sold.

I cleaned it out again, switched the factory 2.0Ω dual coil I had been using with a factory 1.5Ω dual coil, and filled it up with three ampules of Pure Gold (a gram and a half worth, which in this case is also a ml and a half). This was scary as dealing with reclaiming a ml and a half of Pure Gold if this didn't work was not something I was looking forward to. Even heated up to, say, 105°F, Pure Gold is a horrible sticky mess to deal with.

Fortunately, it worked. And it worked great. It works significantly better than my old Pure Gold champ, the GotVapes Sapphire. Much much airier draw. Much more control of the density of the vapor and the throat hit. And more importantly, much better flavor. Only one thing wasn't ideal; the 1.5Ω load was too low for all but my sophisticated mods. It wouldn't work on any of my eGo batteries, including the outstanding Vision Spinner variable voltage eGo batteries. Bummer. It's not that the 1.5Ω mPT3 atty requires a lot of power or anything, it's happy with 7.5 - 10.0 watts, it's that its resistance is too low for the tiny batteries. On the mod I'd been using, I was only running 7.5 watts most of the time.

So I took out the mouthpiece, turned the mPT3 upside down, put it under my arm (yeah, yeah, I have a double boiler, but bite me), and let the gram and a half of Pure Gold settle into the top section of the tank. I took off the bottom of the mPT3 (the same way you fill it), unscrewed the 1.5Ω atty and replaced it with one of the 2.0Ω attys. Put everything back together, turned the mPT3 back over, and put it back under my arm for a couple of minutes. Put it on a battery, took a half dozen unpowered hits, set the battery for 7.5 watts, and... Everything worked perfectly, and now the mPT3 worked on all of my batteries, even the tiny fixed voltage 350mAh eGo I have for stealth. Wheee!

I used the 1.5Ω dual coil atty for about 24 hours before I switched it out for the 2.0Ω dual coil atty. It worked just fine, but I had my battery set for its absolute minimum, and even then sometimes I got a bigger hit for the amount I sucked than I liked. So using the factory 2.0Ω dual coil atty is a much better choice for me. I now have range to adjust any of my vv batteries both below what I like, and higher than I like, which is perfect.

I'm still wrapping my head around being able to fill the mPT3 with $100 worth of Pure Gold, and not having to refill it for a couple of months!!! Oh, and the used 1.5Ω atty that I took out of the mPT3 that was full of Pure Gold? I weighed it when I took it out and then I weighed it again after it had soaked and been agitated in Everclear (95% ethanol). Looks like I only lost 0.04 grams to changing out the atty even though the tank was full. I am not only surprised and pleased by how easy the mPT3 is to clean, but how easy it is too get to (and modify) the atty, and how little waste there is if one has to change out an atty.

A couple of caveats: I haven't been using the mPT3 long enough to know how it will do over a long period of time, and whether the atty will clog up and screw up the draw or start leaking; this is the beginning of the story. Be careful not to lose the tiny O-Rings when you clean your mPT3. And one of the reasons that I used the word "factory" so much in this post is because Kanger stuff, including their replacement attys, gets counterfeited all the time. I made sure I was getting genuine stuff; you should too.

Next adventure with the mPT3 will be to wind my own coil using some ceramic wick instead of the factory silica wick. Probably not right away though, all this testing has me too stoned right now.

:)

Glad to hear that the mini pt3 is working well so far. I've used mini protanks and pt2's with liquidized concentrates with great results as well but they have all leaked eventually (sometimes catastrophically). Hopefully the pt3 is different enough that you don't experience this, especially with $100 worth of pure gold loaded up. Keep a close eye on it, I would hate to hear about you losing a significant amount of concentrate. Definitely don't leave it in a hot car or anything like that. Good luck and keep us updated on the long term performance of the unit.
 
walrus,
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Reactions: Haywood
Hey, I'm pretty new to the scene, but am gearing up quick and have been lurking thI is thread (and FC in general) and have joined now that I have something to contribute. I was initially intrigued by the earlier discussion about ceramic cup RBA's etc. and wanted to share what i have found on my journey. My priorities are towards efficiency, cost, product conservation, less reloading as well as a One Hitta Quitta. I don't want some beast-mode rda chewing through my51 wax.

So I first learned from reddit about prebuilts and used and have Joyetech LR 510 (single and dual coil from litecig), gentlemans, a $5 cheapo globe/nail/dome. The JTLR works great but chugs wax quick; need to try the reg resistance. Gentlemans (not xl) carts are pricey but have been the best "daily" for me; consistent (but no train "dab" hit) clouds, by far and conservative w/ product. The gent i can pack up and have plenty for most trips. Occasional clogs (clear up on there own eventually or w/ blowthrough bottom) My only other complaint is that it's easy to accidently toast precious wax melting it down the sides w/ a lighter. Nail dome has huge hits and can perform well even w/ small crumbles. I've had wax flame up and burn if it gets too hot though. I would like to try a Vhit or similarly well-designed version of this.

After this "phase" I had to do the rda thing and got an average giant dual-core dripper that I now realize is overkill for my needs (ill use it for ejuice or something). I also got this ego ufo thing from vaporbreak here: http://www.vaporbreak.com/en/ego-ufo/159-ego-ufo-atomizer-diy-do-it-yourself-replaceable.html
This little thing impressed me for $4.50 and I'm waiting on ss mesh to make an ss wick to loop around and hold wax close to the coil.

Anyways, the new direction, and kinda what I've always been seeking, is a small rebuildable for wax. I wouldn't mind 3 posts for the option to go dual, maybe one stovetop coil above another one that would drip into the second. Haven't seen this style in anything affordable yet, but anyone who would like to make there own KISS cart style atties or RBA joytech style, check these cheap-cheapish options:

this smoktech terminator for ten bones $10 (you're welcome!):
http://www.aquavaporcig.com/Terminator-Rebuildable-Dripping-Atomizer-Tank-Kit_p_755.html

These similar fasttech small rda's w/ ceramic cups:

the hound - $10 looks promising, would like to see how the posts are positioned, has a screed that could help etc.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10005209/1489704

oddy for $15
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10005098/1442708-oddy-ceramic-cup-tank-rebuildable-atomizer

this looks cool, wish it had reviews $12
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10007125/1582201-myth-ceramic-cup-tank-rebuildable-atomizer

..... a few more i'm too lazy to list. search ft for ceramic and narrow the search to consumer electronics > ecigs > rebuildables (or prebuilts if that's whatcontent rba's here your into).

They also have a new (right?) section for dry here:

https://www.fasttech.com/category/1...tes/MTc3PVdheC9EcnleQ29udGVudF5WYXBvcml6ZXJz/

Glad to have finally joined. Gotta crash now.
 
Last edited:

2clicker

Observer
Hey, I'm pretty new to the scene, but am gearing up quick and have been lurking thI is thread (and FC in general) and have joined now that I have something to contribute. I was initially intrigued by the earlier discussion about ceramic cup RBA's etc. and wanted to share what i have found on my journey. My priorities are towards efficiency, cost, product conservation, less reloading as well as a One Hitta Quitta. I don't want some beast-mode rda chewing through my51 wax.

So I first learned from reddit about prebuilts and used and have Joyetech LR 510 (single and dual coil from litecig), gentlemans, a $5 cheapo globe/nail/dome. The JTLR works great but chugs wax quick; need to try the reg resistance. Gentlemans (not xl) carts are pricey but have been the best "daily" for me; consistent (but no train "dab" hit) clouds, by far and conservative w/ product. The gent i can pack up and have plenty for most trips. Occasional clogs (clear up on there own eventually or w/ blowthrough bottom) My only other complaint is that it's easy to accidently toast precious wax melting it down the sides w/ a lighter. Nail dome has huge hits and can perform well even w/ small crumbles. I've had wax flame up and burn if it gets too hot though. I would like to try a Vhit or similarly well-designed version of this.

After this "phase" I had to do the rda thing and got an average giant dual-core dripper that I now realize is overkill for my needs (ill use it for ejuice or something). I also got this ego ufo thing from vaporbreak here: http://www.vaporbreak.com/en/ego-ufo/159-ego-ufo-atomizer-diy-do-it-yourself-replaceable.html
This little thing impressed me for $4.50 and I'm waiting on ss mesh to make an ss wick to loop around and hold wax close to the coil.

Anyways, the new direction, and kinda what I've always been seeking, is a small rebuildable for wax. I wouldn't mind 3 posts for the option to go dual, maybe one stovetop coil above another one that would drip into the second. Haven't seen this style in anything affordable yet, but anyone who would like to make there own KISS cart style atties or RBA joytech style, check these cheap-cheapish options:

this smoktech terminator for ten bones $10 (you're welcome!):
http://www.aquavaporcig.com/Terminator-Rebuildable-Dripping-Atomizer-Tank-Kit_p_755.html

These similar fasttech small rda's w/ ceramic cups:

the hound - $10 looks promising, would like to see how the posts are positioned, has a screed that could help etc.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10005209/1489704

oddy for $15
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10005098/1442708-oddy-ceramic-cup-tank-rebuildable-atomizer

this looks cool, wish it had reviews $12
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10007125/1582201-myth-ceramic-cup-tank-rebuildable-atomizer

..... a few more i'm too lazy to list. search ft for ceramic and narrow the search to consumer electronics > ecigs > rebuildables (or prebuilts if that's whatcontent rba's here your into).

They also have a new (right?) section for dry here:

https://www.fasttech.com/category/1...tes/MTc3PVdheC9EcnleQ29udGVudF5WYXBvcml6ZXJz/

Glad to have finally joined. Gotta crash now.

have u checked the "one hitter quitter" thread in the concentrates forum?

How about a "one" hitter that you only have to load once a month?

Here's my first report of using a genuine Kanger Mini ProTank 3 with liquified concentrates (in this case, undiluted Pure Gold, which is really thick stuff, easily as thick or thicker than honey). I had a hard time deciding if this post should be in a new thread, or in this thread, or in the "best clearo for pure gold" thread, and the reason I'm leaving it here is because I think it's really relevant to what we've been talking about the past few pages and it applies to any concentrate that is liquid enough to flow, not just Pure Gold. There's been much talk in this and other threads about how to mix your concentrates with, e.g., EJMix or Vegetable Glycerin or Propylene Glycol, etc. so I won't get into it in this message. Anyway, that's why I'm posting this here.

Before I put the first drop of Pure Gold into the mPT3, I wanted to test how well it did with both thin and thick liquids. I changed out the stock 1.5Ω dual coil atty with a genuine Kanger 2.0Ω dual coil PT3 atty, as I only had two of the 1.5Ω attys, but I had five of the 2.0Ω ones, and I wanted to save the 1.5Ω attys for when I loaded Pure Gold. So I loaded 100% Vegetable Glycerin into it, and carried it around for a few days, taking puffs every few hours when I remembered. (Barf; vaping pure VG sucks, even when you just take it into your mouth before exhaling). I went through two tanks of VG (~3ml) with no dry hits and no leaks. I wasn't expecting any leaks (the VG is really thick stuff), but I was happy to discover that the factory 2.0Ω dual coil atty in the mPT3 was able to wick the 100% VG well.

Then I emptied and cleaned out the mPT3, which is really, really easy to do, and filled it with 100% Propylene Glycol. This is really thin stuff, not quite as thin as water, but pretty thin. I carried it around for two days as well, puffing away, and it didn't leak at all (and of course, wicked just fine). For my final test, I loaded it with one of my favorite e-juices (a 70%PG/30%PG blend, pretty thin), and flew from the east coast to the west coast with in my pocket, used it (and refilled it) the whole time I was on the west coast, and flew with it back to the east coast three days later. Worked 100%, leaked 0%.

So I was sold.

I cleaned it out again, switched the factory 2.0Ω dual coil I had been using with a factory 1.5Ω dual coil, and filled it up with three ampules of Pure Gold (a gram and a half worth, which in this case is also a ml and a half). This was scary as dealing with reclaiming a ml and a half of Pure Gold if this didn't work was not something I was looking forward to. Even heated up to, say, 105°F, Pure Gold is a horrible sticky mess to deal with.

Fortunately, it worked. And it worked great. It works significantly better than my old Pure Gold champ, the GotVapes Sapphire. Much much airier draw. Much more control of the density of the vapor and the throat hit. And more importantly, much better flavor. Only one thing wasn't ideal; the 1.5Ω load was too low for all but my sophisticated mods. It wouldn't work on any of my eGo batteries, including the outstanding Vision Spinner variable voltage eGo batteries. Bummer. It's not that the 1.5Ω mPT3 atty requires a lot of power or anything, it's happy with 7.5 - 10.0 watts, it's that its resistance is too low for the tiny batteries. On the mod I'd been using, I was only running 7.5 watts most of the time.

So I took out the mouthpiece, turned the mPT3 upside down, put it under my arm (yeah, yeah, I have a double boiler, but bite me), and let the gram and a half of Pure Gold settle into the top section of the tank. I took off the bottom of the mPT3 (the same way you fill it), unscrewed the 1.5Ω atty and replaced it with one of the 2.0Ω attys. Put everything back together, turned the mPT3 back over, and put it back under my arm for a couple of minutes. Put it on a battery, took a half dozen unpowered hits, set the battery for 7.5 watts, and... Everything worked perfectly, and now the mPT3 worked on all of my batteries, even the tiny fixed voltage 350mAh eGo I have for stealth. Wheee!

I used the 1.5Ω dual coil atty for about 24 hours before I switched it out for the 2.0Ω dual coil atty. It worked just fine, but I had my battery set for its absolute minimum, and even then sometimes I got a bigger hit for the amount I sucked than I liked. So using the factory 2.0Ω dual coil atty is a much better choice for me. I now have range to adjust any of my vv batteries both below what I like, and higher than I like, which is perfect.

I'm still wrapping my head around being able to fill the mPT3 with $100 worth of Pure Gold, and not having to refill it for a couple of months!!! Oh, and the used 1.5Ω atty that I took out of the mPT3 that was full of Pure Gold? I weighed it when I took it out and then I weighed it again after it had soaked and been agitated in Everclear (95% ethanol). Looks like I only lost 0.04 grams to changing out the atty even though the tank was full. I am not only surprised and pleased by how easy the mPT3 is to clean, but how easy it is too get to (and modify) the atty, and how little waste there is if one has to change out an atty.

A couple of caveats: I haven't been using the mPT3 long enough to know how it will do over a long period of time, and whether the atty will clog up and screw up the draw or start leaking; this is the beginning of the story. Be careful not to lose the tiny O-Rings when you clean your mPT3. And one of the reasons that I used the word "factory" so much in this post is because Kanger stuff, including their replacement attys, gets counterfeited all the time. I made sure I was getting genuine stuff; you should too.

Next adventure with the mPT3 will be to wind my own coil using some ceramic wick instead of the factory silica wick. Probably not right away though, all this testing has me too stoned right now.

:)

thanks for the update. i still havent filled mine because i havent needed any liquid lately. i will likely mix a small batch this weekend and see how the ejmix works in my mPT3.
 
2clicker,

GR

Well-Known Member
Need some advice.

Good place to get the mini pro tank 3? Fast tech? Use the 1.5 ohm or get some 2ohm? Best battery base to use? I have omicron 2.5 with HVD plus a ton of ego pen batteries, will these work or upgrade?

I have a bunch of Cera EO carts and do like them for Straight oils but have been considering getting the Luna and liquid cart for my e-juices and oil juice mixes to have a one handle and done setup. Thoughts? Quitting combustion cigs and need a ejuice device I can count on and enjoy.

And finally, looking at the dab setups u all have been making I am wondering what the difference is from those to say just buying the up tech kiss carts?

Thanks, I swear I am reading all the posts just much of it is foreign to me still.
 
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GR,

walrus

Well-Known Member
Hey, I'm pretty new to the scene, but am gearing up quick and have been lurking thI is thread (and FC in general) and have joined now that I have something to contribute. I was initially intrigued by the earlier discussion about ceramic cup RBA's etc. and wanted to share what i have found on my journey. My priorities are towards efficiency, cost, product conservation, less reloading as well as a One Hitta Quitta. I don't want some beast-mode rda chewing through my51 wax.

So I first learned from reddit about prebuilts and used and have Joyetech LR 510 (single and dual coil from litecig), gentlemans, a $5 cheapo globe/nail/dome. The JTLR works great but chugs wax quick; need to try the reg resistance. Gentlemans (not xl) carts are pricey but have been the best "daily" for me; consistent (but no train "dab" hit) clouds, by far and conservative w/ product. The gent i can pack up and have plenty for most trips. Occasional clogs (clear up on there own eventually or w/ blowthrough bottom) My only other complaint is that it's easy to accidently toast precious wax melting it down the sides w/ a lighter. Nail dome has huge hits and can perform well even w/ small crumbles. I've had wax flame up and burn if it gets too hot though. I would like to try a Vhit or similarly well-designed version of this.

After this "phase" I had to do the rda thing and got an average giant dual-core dripper that I now realize is overkill for my needs (ill use it for ejuice or something). I also got this ego ufo thing from vaporbreak here: http://www.vaporbreak.com/en/ego-ufo/159-ego-ufo-atomizer-diy-do-it-yourself-replaceable.html
This little thing impressed me for $4.50 and I'm waiting on ss mesh to make an ss wick to loop around and hold wax close to the coil.

Anyways, the new direction, and kinda what I've always been seeking, is a small rebuildable for wax. I wouldn't mind 3 posts for the option to go dual, maybe one stovetop coil above another one that would drip into the second. Haven't seen this style in anything affordable yet, but anyone who would like to make there own KISS cart style atties or RBA joytech style, check these cheap-cheapish options:

this smoktech terminator for ten bones $10 (you're welcome!):
http://www.aquavaporcig.com/Terminator-Rebuildable-Dripping-Atomizer-Tank-Kit_p_755.html

These similar fasttech small rda's w/ ceramic cups:

the hound - $10 looks promising, would like to see how the posts are positioned, has a screed that could help etc.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10005209/1489704

oddy for $15
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10005098/1442708-oddy-ceramic-cup-tank-rebuildable-atomizer

this looks cool, wish it had reviews $12
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10007125/1582201-myth-ceramic-cup-tank-rebuildable-atomizer

..... a few more i'm too lazy to list. search ft for ceramic and narrow the search to consumer electronics > ecigs > rebuildables (or prebuilts if that's whatcontent rba's here your into).

They also have a new (right?) section for dry here:

https://www.fasttech.com/category/1...tes/MTc3PVdheC9EcnleQ29udGVudF5WYXBvcml6ZXJz/

Glad to have finally joined. Gotta crash now.

Nice first post, welcome aboard. Funny about the timing of this post too, as I just ordered a few of the pieces you linked, the Hound and the Terminator. I think those attys are meant to be built with resistance/nonresistance wire but I'm gonna give it a go with regular kanthal. If I don't like the results ill have to pick up some silver nr wire and have a try at joining them. Also ordered a 14500 mechanical mod for the smaller form factor. I've been enjoying my higher resistance builds and shouldn't have any issues with a 14500 battery as I plan to keep my builds at 1.5 ohms or higher. I think this setup could potentially be an ideal one for me as I would definitely prefer the smaller overall size and the ceramic cup atty should keep any excess concentrate in place right near the coil instead of running down to the drip well of a larger rda. I'll update in a week or so after I receive everything and have a chance to do some testing.
 
walrus,

Haywood

Onward Thru the Fog
Glad to hear that the mini pt3 is working well so far. I've used mini protanks and pt2's with liquidized concentrates with great results as well but they have all leaked eventually (sometimes catastrophically). Hopefully the pt3 is different enough that you don't experience this, especially with $100 worth of pure gold loaded up. Keep a close eye on it, I would hate to hear about you losing a significant amount of concentrate. Definitely don't leave it in a hot car or anything like that. Good luck and keep us updated on the long term performance of the unit.
Absolutely (I'll keep everyone posted). How long before yours started leaking? Where did yours leak from (if you know)? Out the bottom of the 510 connector? Surviving two coast to coast flights without leaking has me believing in the mPT3, but I have no idea what will happen as the wick/atty "wears" in. Only change I've noticed so far (besides vaping way more Pure Gold than I normally do) is that it feels like a gossamer thin film of PG must settle over the air intake (or somewhere along the air path), because when I take a fresh hit, I can feel the suction of a clogged air path for an instant (<10ms) before I get normal full air flow. No heat needed for this, and no need to change technique, just an observation. Only happens on the first hit after I haven't used it for a while. I didn't notice this with the 1.5Ω coil, but I've put way more PG through the 2.0Ω coil.

Need some advice.

Good place to get the mini pro tank 3? Fast tech? Use the 1.5 ohm or get some 2ohm? Best battery base to use? I have omicron 2.5 with HVD plus a ton of ego pen batteries, will these work or upgrade?
I got mine from FastTech, really cheap ($7 each), but shipping from China takes two or three weeks. @2clicker got his from someone in the US, for only a little bit more, and didn't have to wait. He'll probably see this and respond (if he hasn't already). If you read my "review" of the mPT3 a few messages above, you'll see that most fixed and variable voltage eGo batteries won't fire a 1.5Ω load, but will work just fine with a 2.0Ω load. In the simple variable voltage eGo style, I prefer the Vision Spinner brand, and for easy carrying and stealth, I go for the smallest one, which is only 450mAh, but will drive a 2.0Ω atty for days before needing a recharge. If you want a really kick ass eGo-style battery, check out the itasteVV v3 variable wattage ($25). This is the eGo style battery I use the most. It's square rather than round, but fully featured, and drives 1.5Ω loads without much sweat. Built in ohm meter, VW/VV, all the bells and whistles, comes in four colors, and if feels great in your hand... I still recommend the 2.0Ω coils.

I don't know about your Omicron battery, but if it has an eGo thread (I don't think it does), it will work, otherwise you need a suitable adapter. If you do order a mPT3, note that it comes with a 1.5Ω atty pre-loaded. If you want some 2.0Ω attys, order them at the same time (make sure you order genuine Kanger dual coil attys for the PT3, mPT3, or AeroTank. The other Kanger attys won't fit).

Also ordered a 14500 mechanical mod for the smaller form factor. I've been enjoying my higher resistance builds and shouldn't have any issues with a 14500 battery as I plan to keep my builds at 1.5 ohms or higher. I think this setup could potentially be an ideal one for me as I would definitely prefer the smaller overall size and the ceramic cup atty should keep any excess concentrate in place right near the coil instead of running down to the drip well of a larger rda. I'll update in a week or so after I receive everything and have a chance to do some testing.
I've been using a bagua 14500 clone for quite a while, and I still love it. Was less than $20, don't remember if I got it from FastTech or somewhere stateside. Do a google search for "bagua 14500 clone" and you'll turn up more than you need. Bottom fire, locking ring (not reverse threaded), magnetic switch so no springs, brass contact. Flat top (no air channels, no eGo threads, just a 510 connector), brass top contact, adjustable 510 center pin as well as allowing you to adjust for no battery rattle. Heavy, solid SS, shiny, tastefully engraved, and barely bigger in any dimension than the 14500 that lives inside. Works like a champ. I use it when I go formal. :)
 
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2clicker

Observer
Also ordered a 14500 mechanical mod for the smaller form factor. I've been enjoying my higher resistance builds and shouldn't have any issues with a 14500 battery as I plan to keep my builds at 1.5 ohms or higher. I think this setup could potentially be an ideal one for me as I would definitely prefer the smaller overall size and the ceramic cup atty should keep any excess concentrate in place right near the coil instead of running down to the drip well of a larger rda. I'll update in a week or so after I receive everything and have a chance to do some testing.

i am thinking the same. i really enjoy 2.5-3ohm coils the best at this point. i like to use an 18350 IMR cell to keep my rig short. the ceramic cup is also looking promising for my needs.

I've been using a bagua 14500 clone for quite a while, and I still love it. Was less than $20, don't remember if I got it from FastTech or somewhere stateside. Do a google search for "bagua 14500 clone" and you'll turn up more than you need. Bottom fire, locking ring (not reverse threaded), magnetic switch so no springs, brass contact. Flat top (no air channels, no eGo threads, just a 510 connector), brass top contact, adjustable 510 center pin as well as allowing you to adjust for no battery rattle. Heavy, solid SS, shiny, tastefully engraved, and barely bigger in any dimension than the 14500 that lives inside. Works like a champ. I use it when I go formal. :)

i dont mind so much the diameter. its the length that bothers me. i have considered using 18500s, but i get tons of use out of my 18350s with a 2.5-3 ohm coil.

EDIT* link to mini PT3
http://www.viper-vape.com/products/kanger-mini-protank-3.html

ive placed a couple of orders with this retailer. great service and fast shipping.
 
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2clicker,

ollent

Well-Known Member
Gentlemans (not xl) carts are pricey but have been the best "daily" for me; consistent (but no train "dab" hit) clouds, by far and conservative w/ product. The gent i can pack up and have plenty for most trips. Occasional clogs (clear up on there own eventually or w/ blowthrough bottom)
FWIW, the newest version doesn't actually have a hole on the bottom. I just bought my second set the other day. No more leaks/clogs! Customer service is still just as stoned as their product though....
 
ollent,

Newcastle

Stoned!
I have my first dumb question....well in this thread. :freak: Can I use oil concentrates in any e pen or do I have to alter it. I see that they are altering them for shatter but I am not clear on the whole pen thing. I have been using herb for 35 years but the oil thing is new to me. I had some years ago but just put it on my joints when I rolled. I was told to just get a g pen..any thoughts on that?
 
Newcastle,

arrr

Well-Known Member
Has anyone rebuilt a seego vhit type b or

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10007721/1670802-yo-zap-e-solid-wax-pyrex-glass-vaporizer

or

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10007822/1684502-gt-e-solid-wax-pyrex-glass-vaporizer

I think @MTBerVAPEer said earlier that he as rebuilt a seego vhit type b. @funkyjunky and @DabComa said they have rebuilt builb style atomizer which i think is very similar to the type b. If anyone could post some pics, video or instructions on how to do so that would be great.

@walrus let us know how the hound works out. It looks like the threads will not get all waxed up when you have you reload (which is a huge plus). Also i am interested in how the screen works with the wax.
 
arrr,

2clicker

Observer
I have my first dumb question....well in this thread. :freak: Can I use oil concentrates in any e pen or do I have to alter it. I see that they are altering them for shatter but I am not clear on the whole pen thing. I have been using herb for 35 years but the oil thing is new to me. I had some years ago but just put it on my joints when I rolled. I was told to just get a g pen..any thoughts on that?

you have options. you can get atomizers made for solids and use them with any "pen" style battery (like an eGo). you can also buy yourself a rebuildable atomizer and build your own coils for use with solid concentrates. going the rebuildable route is for experienced vapers, but can be learned pretty easily. or you can mix your concentrates with a carrier liquid (EJ Mix) and then use that in standard ecig atomizers.

this thread is mostly about rebuildable atomizers for use with solids. i am not familiar with the G Pen personally, but know of its existence. IMO it better to rebuild because you can replace coils/wicks for pennies instead of $15-25 a piece for say a Dabbler atty or the like. if you dont want to get into rebuilding then you will pay more for premade coils.
 
2clicker,

Newcastle

Stoned!
Thanks 2clicker. I am kind of swimming in knowledge over here and not much is soaking in...lol..My wife has a joyteck ego I think is the model. If I bought a new tank and use her 1.8 ohm coil will that work with oils?
 
Newcastle,

fernand

Well-Known Member
@fernand
Pre-cleaning I vaped what was left in the atty until I really couldn't get any more, and there was almost nothing left to scrape off the sides or braid, and then I weighed it. Came out to 3.99 grams. After cleaning, it weighed 3.85 grams, which is exactly the same as they weigh new (I checked). So it appears that the priming amount for one of these is ~ 0.14 grams. I would estimate that 0.04 grams of that was concentrate still on the inside of the shell (I didn't really scrape it off 100%), and the rest (0.1 gram) was in the oval cups where the coil leads enter the ceramic, and coating the air hole under the coil (which you can't see in this picture), and in the mesh.
:science:

I'm going to have to do a weighing with the one I tried. I ended up chickening out after some significant portion of a 1/2g jar, maybe 0.2g, seemed to vanish into the mesh. So I guess i'll soak it in ethanol 96%, there's nothing cooked on it to speak of, so it should all dissolve in warm ethanol. Then we'll see how much really was in the mesh.

That's what puzzles me. I use SS or Bronze mesh as a "pad" in my Solo and Firefly to vape wax. A second with a lighter or torch, and it melts and vanishes into the mesh as if it were cotton. It vaporizes very nicely from that medium. So I cannot fathom why it didn't penetrate your surround any more than a fraction of 0.1g. Yours was a wax, probably like mine, a "supermelt", that's sold whipped and melts to an oil, but when cooled is pretty well solidified at room temp?
 
fernand,

lesvape

Queer in a high haze
Has anyone tried oils with the vapeonly BCC Mega cartomizer? The kit I have comes with a 1.8ohm, 2.2ohm and a 2.5ohm replaceable atty. I am getting some pure gold tomorrow and wondering if this could work. It's a dual wick bottom atomizer, I think works similar to Kanger models, but I am not sure how well this model would work with pure gold. It barely leaks, and I say barely and sometimes you see juice at portion where the mouth peace slots in. Thank you.
 
lesvape,
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