Cheap High Quality Bubbler

Herr_Dampf

Well-Known Member
I think you should order a few of their better listings at the 10+ level for the cheap prices, then open an eBay store, iOffer shop, etc. Putting proper English descriptions on them would help them sell. I bet you could easily triple or quadruple your investment, plus you'd start build rep and a brand for if you did start selling your own glass later.

Yes, but he'd also be doing what we are shaming others for. Like the stripped D020 on the TAG page etc...
 

Anonymouse

Sith I care
Yes, but he'd also be doing what we are shaming others for. Like the stripped D020 on the TAG page etc...

He wouldn't, because he wouldn't have to charge insane mark-ups. US$100 for a D020 is taking the piss, sure, but US$40-$45 for one he paid $14.66 for is still a very reasonable price for the unit, and a great return to the seller. He could probably negotiate an even cheaper price since those figures are to ship the unit the US, and in-country delivery must be cheaper. He'd have much lower overheads than the US-based resellers.

And, for people buying one unit at a time in non-US countries, ordering such a resold unit might even work out cheaper if he's able to send them China Air Post instead of EMS, which SunshineStore can't be fucked doing.
 

Herr_Dampf

Well-Known Member
He wouldn't, because he wouldn't have to charge insane mark-ups. US$100 for a D020 is taking the piss, sure, but US$40-$45 for one he paid $14.66 for is still a very reasonable price for the unit, and a great return to the seller. He could probably negotiate an even cheaper price since those figures are to ship the unit the US, and in-country delivery must be cheaper. He'd have much lower overheads than the US-based resellers.

And, for people buying one unit at a time in non-US countries, ordering such a resold unit might even work out cheaper if he's able to send them China Air Post instead of EMS, which SunshineStore can't be fucked doing.

I was talking about this

http://thick-quality-glass.myshopif...ng-slitted-showerhead-18mm-slide-not-included

Yes, people are moaning about it.
I don't want to interfer with anybodies business plans though, I am sure there is good money to be made this way. Actually, I guess thats the way guys like BL started.
 
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Anonymouse

Sith I care
I was talking about this

http://thick-quality-glass.myshopif...ng-slitted-showerhead-18mm-slide-not-included

Yes, people are moaning about it.
I don't want to interfer with anybodies business plans though, I am sure there is good money to be made this way. Actually, I guess thats the way guys like BL started.

Those guys are charging more like $60-$70, though, as they're parting out all the accessories to resell separately. $10 bowl, $10 dome, $10 adapter, $5 nails, etc...
 

Anonymouse

Sith I care
They are charging:

$37.50 - D020
$11.15 - Dome + Nail + Adapter
$3.50 - for the slide

But who would really buy these junk Nail and slide separately?

LHS customers?

Oh well, US$52.15 is not crazy unreasonable, but even if I was American I'd rather pay $19 for the single direct from China, as I'm in no particular hurry for new glass.

What I like about TAG is my order arrives in 2 days vs the 28 days from China and I can communicate to them much better if a product is damaged.

A reseller in the US is better for Americans, sure, but one in China is better for basically every other country, as the stuff doesn't bear the cost of shipping to the US, then to its final destination country. Hence suggesting GL try resale before making his own pieces; it gives international customers access to a level of communication the native Chinese operations don't offer. Plus it'd let him test the waters for demand, get his distribution setup, etc, and see how viable the operation might be, before investing heavily in development and production.
 
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Errl

Well-Known Member
Been a long time since I've been on these forums, but I wanted to stop by and say thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I was looking for a small bubbler and the D020 fits the bill perfectly.

So I'm covered on my small bubbler needs... Next step is obviously a bigger one! Haha I'm thinking about something like the WP-010 or the Toro Macro clones. Can anyone link me to a China seller with these?
 

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Hey everyone - I'm trying to find a Claisen adapter for my D020 (for use with my Lotus). But I can't seem to find anything with the proper joint sizes - everything I'm seeing is large 20mm or 24mm+ joint sizes. The only one that might fit is a 14/20 - but I think that means one is 14mm, the other two are 20mm - jesus that's big.

Where can I find something with 18mm or 14mm joint sizes?
 

Mister G

Deceptively Old Fart
Hey everyone - I'm trying to find a Claisen adapter for my D020 (for use with my Lotus). But I can't seem to find anything with the proper joint sizes - everything I'm seeing is large 20mm or 24mm+ joint sizes. The only one that might fit is a 14/20 - but I think that means one is 14mm, the other two are 20mm - jesus that's big.

Where can I find something with 18mm or 14mm joint sizes?

Any of the ones labeled 14/20 will work in your D020. The 14 refers to the smaller end that fits INSIDE the 18mm opening and the 20 refers to the wider tapered end of the joint that prevents it from sliding all the way through.
 

Anonymouse

Sith I care
Hey everyone - I'm trying to find a Claisen adapter for my D020 (for use with my Lotus). But I can't seem to find anything with the proper joint sizes - everything I'm seeing is large 20mm or 24mm+ joint sizes. The only one that might fit is a 14/20 - but I think that means one is 14mm, the other two are 20mm - jesus that's big.

Where can I find something with 18mm or 14mm joint sizes?

I'd just use a carbon filter (or 14mm female to 18mm male adapter) instead, then lift the whole unit off to clear by grabbing the filter. The Lotus is so small that this is basically the same effort as pulling a stopper anyway, plus you can load the filter/adapter with cotton wool to catch the dust and ash when Lotus inevitably, eventually combusts. :p

(I like my Lotus, but when you're trying to get that last little bit extracted from a bowl you're walking a really fine line, and if you're doing so regularly, you will burn the load on occasion.)

Edit: This'd give better ergonomics, too, as a full-size claisen would put the top of the Lotus above the mouthpiece, which makes it awkward to see where your flame jet is hitting. An adapter would have it a little below the moutpiece, which is just about perfect viewing height.
 
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Herr_Dampf

Well-Known Member
Any of the ones labeled 14/20 will work in your D020. The 14 refers to the smaller end that fits INSIDE the 18mm opening and the 20 refers to the wider tapered end of the joint that prevents it from sliding all the way through.

Negative, first number is diameter at the widest point, second is length.
A 14/20 will not fit the the D020 without an adapter.

Wikipedia said:
The first number represents the outer diameter (OD) in millimeters (mm) at the base (widest part) of the inner joint. if possible - mark on picture The second number represents the ground glass length of the joint in millimeters.[1] The most common US joints are 14/20 and 24/40. These sizes apply only to glassware in the US. There are also European ISO standard joints with common joint sizes of 5/13, 7/16, 10/19, 12/21, 14/23, 19/26, 24/29, 29/32, 34/35, 45/40, 60/46, 71/51 and 85/55. The US and ISO joints differ only in the length, not in the slope, and some can be used in combination. The stopper joints of chemical bottles, volumetric flasks, and separatory funnels often do not use the precision standard taper joints. Stopper joints are designated (if at all) only by the maximum diameter number

Claisen 19/22:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/synthware-Adapter-Claisen-Joints-19-22/940138315.html
 

Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker

Herr_Dampf

Well-Known Member
Awesome, thanks for clearing that up - so if I buy a 19/22 like the one pictured, that will give me 3 18mm joints (2 female and 1 male)?

Exactly. Its actually 18.8mm, thats why many places call it 19.

Thank you for the corrections. I know just enough to be dangerous. :evil:

To make up for it, here's the best deal I've found on Ebay, $8.99 shipped and the seller is very fast shipper in the CONUS.

Thanks for that link. Due to my location, I am always more on the look out for euro deals ;)

Heh, you beat me to it. Was just about to edit my last post to add the quote. :p

We are two horrible wisenheimers, aren't we ;)
EDIT: Awesome tag team action there! :clap:
 
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Anonymouse

Sith I care
Awesome, thanks for clearing that up - so if I buy a 19/22 like the one pictured, that will give me 3 18mm joints (2 female and 1 male)?

Yes, but then you'd also need to buy a stopper and a low-profile 18mm to 14mm reducer as well, to connect all the stuff up. Or you could get a 14mm claisen but you'd still need the low-pro to connect, it'd just go in the bubbler instead of the top of the claisen in that case.

The solution I suggested above is cheaper and easier, though, and I think it'd work better in multiple ways with this particular vape. Go back and check the edit I just added for a new point, BTW...
 

SSVUN~YAH

You Must Unlearn, What You Have Learned...
Hey everyone - I'm trying to find a Claisen adapter for my D020 (for use with my Lotus). But I can't seem to find anything with the proper joint sizes - everything I'm seeing is large 20mm or 24mm+ joint sizes. The only one that might fit is a 14/20 - but I think that means one is 14mm, the other two are 20mm - jesus that's big.

Where can I find something with 18mm or 14mm joint sizes?

Yes, but then you'd also need to buy a stopper and a low-profile 18mm to 14mm reducer as well, to connect all the stuff up. Or you could get a 14mm claisen but you'd still need the low-pro to connect, it'd just go in the bubbler instead of the top of the claisen in that case.

The solution I suggested above is cheaper and easier, though, and I think it'd work better in multiple ways with this particular vape. Go back and check the edit I just added for a new point, BTW...

 

Anonymouse

Sith I care

Hssss! Mussst be all-glasss, hssss! Unbeliever!

Seriously though, I'd personally prefer something rigid, and the advantage of a cotton filter in a vape that's capable of regular combustion (or even just liberating a lot more ash before combustion than most vapes) can't be understated. As Doctor Brule says, it's for your health.
 
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SSVUN~YAH

You Must Unlearn, What You Have Learned...
Hssss! Mussst be all-glasss, hssss! Unbeleiever!

Seriously though, I'd personally prefer something rigid, and the advantage of a cotton filter in a vape that's capable of regular combustion (or even just liberating a lot more ash before combustion than most vapes) can't be understated. As Doctor Brule says, it's for your health.
The silicone touches the air path less than 1/4" in length, use medical grade high temp silicone. Protects your glass by covering metal, slides over/into any joint, no taste difference, no need for adapters($ and length problems), cheap and easy, plus convert combustion bowls this way. Plus you can slide it over the wpa so there is zero overhang thus not in air path. The Lotus wpa is stainless steel so idk how you get all glass air path to begin with, just trying to help not trying to get flamed by people who have never tried it before...
 
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Anonymouse

Sith I care
The silicone touches the air path less than 1/4" in length, use medical grade high temp silicone. Protects your glass by covering metal, slides over any joint, no taste difference, no need for adapters($ and length problems), cheap and easy, plus convert combustion bowls this way. Plus you can slide it over the wpa so there is zero overhang thus not in air path. The Lotus wpa is stainless steel so idk how you get all glass air path to begin with, just trying to help not trying to get flamed by people who have never tried it before...

Well yes, hence the mock-sarcastic tone in the first sentence. I don't believe "all glass" is that important as long as the substituted materials are suitably chemically inert. Plus like you say, the WPA (and most of the Lotus) is stainless anyway.

But for all the other reasons I stated, I still think a rigid adapter is the best option, and a filter is a massive bonus. The 14F to 18M converter is like $8 on eBay/iOffer, and that's all he'd need to buy, so it's also really cheap, plus it's much less likely to fall out. He wanted a claisen for easier clearing, and an adapter is a nice rigid "handle" to lift the Lotus off with, but one that's only going to add about an inch of height when inserted, as opposed to the two to three inches a claisen would. Just wedge a bit of screen and some cotton bud lightly in there for a filter and he's good to go.
 
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SSVUN~YAH

You Must Unlearn, What You Have Learned...
I completely agree with the cotton. Yes that adapter will be fine and work. I thought the same way, I need all glass setup. But when I wanted to see the top of my hammer bub, I used the silicone and it opened my eyes to a world of possibilities!
 

Anonymouse

Sith I care
I completely agree with the cotton. Yes that adapter will be fine and work. I thought the same way, I need all glass setup. But when I wanted to see the top of my hammer bub, I used the silicone and it opened my eyes to a world of possibilities!

Right but the whole purpose here was to make the Lotus easier to clear, and to do that the silicone would have to be quite long so as to be grippable, so would stick out just as much as the glass adapter, only it'd be bendy. Also you just drop the glass in any which way and it seals. Silicone would have to be pressed in somewhat.

I'm talking about a full-height 14f to 18m, just to be clear, not a low-pro type, as the main purpose is to be a "handle".
 
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SSVUN~YAH

You Must Unlearn, What You Have Learned...
Right but the whole purpose here was to make the Lotus easier to clear, and to do that the silicone would have to be quite long so as to be grippable, so would stick out just as much as the glass adapter, only it'd be bendy. Also you just drop the glass in any which way and it seals. Silicone would have to be pressed in somewhat.
How do you clear a Lotus? Why would silicone stick out as much as the adapter? Also you drop your glass joints in place, wow do they stick/lock/freeze/etc? You can actually drop this one in from right on top of the joint w/o worry of lock or breakage bc of the silicone. Do me a favor and try it instead of just thinking about it. I know you are a very educated man, I am not trying to belittle you by asking you to try, maybe it will be fascinating maybe not...
 

Anonymouse

Sith I care
How do you clear a Lotus?

I mean lifting it off to clear the water tool. You can't do this easily normally as the height of the WPA when inserted is only a few mm, so there's no room to grab, plus it gets pretty hot. A full-height GonG adapter adds the height of the 14mm female GonG under the Lotus (so ~20mm) to give you aplace to grab and lift off the Lotus and adapter together, instead of pulling the stopper on a claisen that will add a lot more height.

Why would silicone stick out as much as the adapter?

Because it has to to serve the same purpose; we're deliberately raising the Lotus up a little to provide a place to grip it from underneath.

Also you drop your glass joints in place, wow do they stick/lock/freeze/etc?

I can't remember the last time I had a stuck joint, but it's an occasional hazard. If you just let it fall in under gravity it's massively unlikely to be enough force to wedge it. I'm talking a drop of a few mm only, here.

You can actually drop this one in from right on top of the joint w/o worry of lock or breakage bc of the silicone. Do me a favor and try it instead of just thinking about it. I know you are a very educated man, I am not trying to belittle you by asking you to try, maybe it will be fascinating maybe not...

I'm not saying silicone won't work as a joint size adapter, or won't seal, just that it's not a good solution in this case, this case being an alternative to a claisen as an easy clearing method. It doesn't solve the same problem the claisen or glass adapter do unless you make it long and awkward.
 
Anonymouse,
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SSVUN~YAH

You Must Unlearn, What You Have Learned...
I liked that post until the end. You don't need much silicone like your thinking. You can grab the wpa with silicone attached, I do it easily plenty of finger room and not hot at all. In my experience if its too hot then your screen probably needs replaced or your heating too long. Also I think it's a better flavor if I leave the Lotus on while clearing. Even with my LSV Claisen adapter setup I don't use the carb often, better flavor IME. I only use the carb if I am short of breath. It solved my problem WAY better than Claisen w/o making it long and awkward. Again please try it a week or so, work out the kinks for yourself, it can and it will work b/c I have done it and still do it today.:2c::peace:
 
SSVUN~YAH,
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