Discontinued VapeXhale Cloud EVO

I've got my INTL EVO this week and have been using it for 3 days.
And I already like it more than my old Cloud (even with all the glitches):

Improvements:

+Removable power cord
Replaceabity and portability! Hitting it cordless is also awesome.
It feels like magic when you pull such Clouds without a power cord.

+Enclosure
Not looking like a prototype anymore, it's functional, the bottom is cool, doesn't have sharp edges and the paint will certainly not fuck up as there is none.
This enclosure is a win-win!

+Heat up time
It is noticeable I can feel the heat on output much faster. But I think it still needs almost the same time for the heat soak as the old Cloud to really give the most impressive dragon clouds.

+LEDs
When working properly I love their function. The PWM-like strobe when coming to temp looks awesome.
They really act like a real senzor-dial comparison output giving me green everytime the dial matches the temperature.
I can always check where the temp really is by moving the dial to see where it turns green.

+Slow pull performance
The EVO gives better clouds then my Cloud when pulling slowly. I had to pull at least moderately strong to get good vapor for the Cloud.
The EVO Gives the same vapor at even broader range of pull speeds. Especially slow pulls got improved. And this is how most people hit it from my observation.
Hard hit performance remained the same imo.

If my vape didn't have all the glitches like the infamous red light, blinking red light etc, it would be the ultimate perfection (for me).

Glitches, errors, imperfections, etc:

-Red light forever
It seems to me like everytime the LED is red it has a chance of not turning green. It never went to red from green without a reason.
When the red LED is on forever, it still heats up properly and a restart shows me, the unit actually was on temp all the time.
Just the green doesn't show anymore when the temp matches the dial unless restart.
This a simple test I do to check if it got in this red light forverer glitch:
When the unit is hot and I move the dial all the way between min and max and there is no green light at any point I can be sure it needs a restart.

-Green light forever
This happened only once to me. A green light that doesn't turn red even when I move the dial. Something like a green version of the issue above.
A restart solved this as well and I don't know what caused this.
I restarted it too fast to know what the heater was actually doing. So I can't cofirm for now if it still heats properly in this glitch as in my red light.

-Blinking red light error pattern (3x)
Happened twice to me. Both time when I restarted fast from the red light forever glitch. I think the heater is not engaged when in the error pattern.
A restart solves this as well.

-Light not coming on at all.
Also happened twice and also happened when I restarted the unit fast from the red light.
Maybe the unit doesn't like too fast restarts?

-LEDs blind to dials over 3hrs.
I still don't know if its just the LEDs, but when the LED is green at 3 hrs it will remain green even when I move it to max and when it's green on max it needs to get under 3hrs to get red.
So it could mean either:
1) The dial is blind from 3 to max (Probably not, I think the max temp tastes hotter for me)
2) The dial is not linear at the high end while LED sensing still is. So the linear difference between these points is not that big to make the LED color change
3) Just LEDs not responding at that range. When the unit is capable of heating properly even in LED glitches this could also be believable.

-Shut off timer
A lot of people say their INTL EVO don't have a hut-off timer at all.
I tried to test this and let the unit run and I played a computer game.
After few hours I found the unit shut off. But no shut-off timer LED pattern (3 green 2 reds?)
The light just went off like Cloud+ units.
So maybe there is a shutoff timer, but it doesn't work like in 120V EVOs. Longer timer and no LED pattern.

-Missing temp knob
Yeah, this is not a glitch. But the EVO can't be perfect without it.
The knob from my old Cloud that i put on it doesn't look as good and is not as well readable because of missing hour marks on it.

EDIT:
-The heater going off and the unit not noticing it until restart.
Wow, this happened the first session, but I forgot about it. Now it happened again.
The unit stays green, but feels cold, so I restart and its red and heats up again.
Can this be the shut off timer shutting off only the heater but not LEDs? Or is it a more serious fault?
Why is the LED still green when the unit is clearly not on temp?

(Disclaimer - not having a go at you @Seek, its just that your mention of this reminded me)

I don't really get the talk of need for hash marks so that you will know where on the dial you are...
(I recall it coming up in the past too)

It really isn't that hard (at least for me) to just use clock references.
My sweet spot so far with the EVO is 3/3.30.
So I just set it to there, I don't really understand the need for a hash mark to be able to get to the same spot repeatedly.

I get it for the few EVOs that were reported early on with ridiculously tiny usable ranges on the dial (wasn't there a member that had to bump it up in 5 minute increments?), but for a properly functioning EVO, it just doesn't seem necessary to me.

Maybe it's because I've come from the SSV, then LSV, which both have dials, but no hash marks?

Maybe I'm just better at visualizing angles in my head or something, and I guess it just comes down to a preference thing, but yeah, I don't entirely get the want for hash marks...

I don't have any problem visualizing angles too. Not really a problem for me, but I think some other people could complain about that, but I would like to have at least these knob marks you all have.
No hash marks are the last problem I want to have solved right now.

Also I've got the first combustion today.
The old Cloud drops the vapor output when you start inhaling really REALLY slowly.
The EVO act the opposite way here.
I tried how slow can I pull before the vapor output drops and actually it was starting to give more.
After enough time pulling really slowly it combusted.
I think the temp raise is not really that much, the temp has already been almost maxed, so probably there is no danger of ELB igniting by just being in the joint.

I thought the evo with the hash marks was a user modification?

Seek said:

-Shut off timer
A lot of people say their INTL EVO don't have a hut-off timer at all.
I tried to test this and let the unit run and I played a computer game.
After few hours I found the unit shut off. But no shut-off timer LED pattern (3 green 2 reds?)
The light just went off like Cloud+ units.
So maybe there is a shutoff timer, but it doesn't work like in 120V EVOs. Longer timer and no LED pattern.

Click to expand...

My 110v unit's auto shutoff lasts longer than an hour but it does shut off and I do get the led pattern showing red and green - kinda looks orange too. It will just sit there with the led pattern on but no heat. I have not had the unit turn off completely though it just stays with the led pattern on.

And I have also experienced that entire list of glitches apart from the no heat but still green led...well not yet anyway haha!

....in terms of hits with the evo....the unit itself is only part of the equation...the condition of the elb. and the hydratube (or water pipe) used is also a factor in ease, strength, of hit... a clean elb is always going to deliver a more satisfying hit...

I didnt have any problem with my unit, I also invested in the carrying case because I love the ability to travel with my EVO and they shipped it to me in the case. See photo

I also love how my EVO can pair with so much glass!! I bought a Reckless Shower Head and a DBV Vapor Cooler. See photo

What I do wish that VapeXhale did was have a waitlist for certain items. Like the concentrate attachment and the HydraFoot 2.0 . I really want the hydrafoot as well and another perc that I could pair the hydrafoot to my shower cap.

biohacker said:

I never, ever have that "pop" flash type event happen when inserting the ELB in the Cloud+. That pop is i'm guessing the flashpoint of the gas that has built up and the tight ELB creates enough pressure to ignite it for that split second.

Click to expand...

VapeNStone said:

No most likely the pop flash your taking about is just kief escaping the elb and burning it when it gets to close to the heater.

Click to expand...

Woah woah woah, you can make fireworks with the evo??

Ok so if keif makes cool little pops... let's try little bits of gunpowder

I keep forgetting how easy this thing is to use. This has been by far the favourite vape amongst my friends/ cousins just because they literally don't need any special technique to use it. They ask how and all I say is "rip it".

And then they are amazed.

Should I be sending my unit in for calibration if running the EVO on max doesn't even come close to the temp of my ticker on max. I stopped using my EVO because the ticker gives a better vape (higher temp range,bigger rips when using non hydratubes,no whistling)

For the reasons you mentioned I prefer VXL's older products than the EVO myself, but the real question is do you get rich dark brown ABV on max temp? Also keep in mind that your ticker might be running hotter than it should.

Sent the evo in for repair. I never got to experience it fully and for the price I payed I believe I should have that opportunity. Hope they take good care of it ! Also hope one time is the charm and I won't be repeating this again.

It seems like we are so conditioned to COMBUSTION. Everyone is trying to get big clouds and dark ABV. Fact is THC vaporizes at around 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Any thing above is overkill, and one would think if you are chasing combustion, you run the risk of damaging the evo?

Does anyone know at what "time" on the dial would a properly calibrated EVO reach 400F?

I currently vape at 2oclock because I enjoy making clouds. I also have started keeping all my ABV, put about an 1/8th in a small amount of Baccardi 151 and about an Oz in a cup of canola oil, left it in a dark place and next year I will know how efficient vaping was.

On the bright side, I get very ELEVATED with my EVO... On the down side, it is so easy on my lungs and I enjoy using it soooooo much!!!!

So my unit probably doesn't have a shut off timer too.
I've run it for 5 continuous hours. It remained on temp the whole time and didn't shut off.

This is purely speculation, but I say there may be something wrong with your Evo and you should at the very least make a support ticket. I got mine back from recalibration--totally different vape now.


Before the whistle was loud and annoying; now it's barely noticeable. ABV gets way darker.

Trust your gut, if you're truly unimpressed by the EVO compared to previous models, get a support ticket going.

My baby

awesome... congrats on the win

S1N3 said:

My baby

Click to expand...

Like some of the other members the temperature differences between the Cloud and the Evo held me back from being completely satisfied with my Evo. Having spent enough time with the Evo I have come to appreciate it as much as it deserves. Many people in this thread have stressed over and over that the Evo is not the Cloud. They are completely different. I'm finally realizing what this means.

The main area the Evo really wins in is the taste department. Flavor is noticeably better with the Evo than the Cloud when being used at similar temperatures. I find the high heat output of the Cloud extracts the goodies quicker in the form of a massive cloud, but loses in the flavor department. With the Evo, it's a bit of a slower extraction but I can reach a similar ABV color and release similar amounts of actives to the Cloud... it just takes another hit to do that. Stir and repeat... 100% even ABV. At low temps I find the Evo destroys the Cloud. The taste is just so pure. At higher temps, I may have to give the nod to the Cloud, but not by much. It is a beast of a hitter, can whitewall a tube with the best of them, but it destroys the flavor immediately and one has to wonder if you're getting too much nasty stuff in that vapor. With two pulls I can get a similar extraction and similar ABV roast (Evo).

To make a long story short... The Evo is great. Give it time, find your technique, learn the dial, make sure your ELBs are clean and your medicine is fresh and you will really enjoy the product. I took for granted a lot of the "little things" the Evo improved on but I'm starting to realize just because it's different than the Cloud doesn't mean it can't be better. Back to the Evo...

That was really well said mlo4sho, I completely agree with your assessment! They are definitely different beasts, yet similar. I was expecting a Cloud when I tried the EVO, which is why it took me a bit to adapt to it.

It's ALIVE!!!!!! I pronounce thee "Frankenstein"



EVO powered "Frankenstein"

Reckless Shower Cap > Fatty Vaper Tamer > UPC Tree-cycler > Frankenstein's head an inline perc

I've created a MONSTER!!!


To note: I was able to combust at 2:30pm with this thing. I think the extra drag by "Frankenstein"'s multiple chambers slows the air going through the ELB causing incineration.

Cloud Evo + herborizer sphere xl + 18mm m-m elbow + swagger barrel / 3m whip.

Now all i need is a working evo :/

swagger evorizer

EVO + Swagger LE Circ to Turbine = MEDICATED!

I had to stop after 6 huge hits of Pink Kush, the vapor would just not let up!
Save that ELB for tomorrow night!

The glitch list of these INTL EVOs seems to be neverending.
I've got a new one today.
After being green for a while, the red light went on too. So both LEDs were lit at the same time.
I don't know what that means, but it wasn't overheating or anything and restart made it green again confirming it has been on temp.
These units are probably capable of every glitch imaginable...

How can these LEDs be so glitchy yet the unit heating correctly? Is there a separate control for them that can be fucked up, shorted or something?

I am getting scared of this unit. It never overheated, but it seems it can happen to any unit. Fred's unit was also reported as not overheating, acting the same as mine, and now it did and broke

I too had that both LEDs on thing.

Same night as my evo overheated...

I was using it, and it was running perfectly (no LED glitches or anything ), I turned around to grab it from the desk, and I saw both lights were on at the same time...

(EDIT: the unit was cool to the touch, so the heater was definitely off when I had both LEDs on) I power toggled, and everything seemed fine, so I figured maybe it was the auto shutoff kicking in or something?

Anyways, later that night, I got the runaway heating issue which lead to the bright glowing orange bamboo, and my Bamboo cracked later that night (I'm assuming when the unit fully cooled back to room temp)

Let's hope round 2 of the Intl EVOs are less buggy

That matches my experience so exactly I'm scared my unit is going to overheat today

EDIT:

Seek said:

-Blinking red light error pattern (3x)
Happened twice to me. Both time when I restarted fast from the red light forever glitch. I think the heater is not engaged when in the error pattern.
A restart solves this as well.

Click to expand...

I found a way that easily indused this error pattern.
When I try to move the dial up slowly and slow down when the red/green strobe comes on to let it go back to green. I've been trying this to avoid going to red (and going to forever red then) but being too much on the red/green strobe moving the dial slowly further easily makes the unit go into this 3x red error pattern and need a restart.

Seek said:

-LEDs blind to dials over 3hrs.
I still don't know if its just the LEDs, but when the LED is green at 3 hrs it will remain green even when I move it to max and when it's green on max it needs to get under 3hrs to get red.
So it could mean either:
1) The dial is blind from 3 to max (Probably not, I think the max temp tastes hotter for me)
2) The dial is not linear at the high end while LED sensing still is. So the linear difference between these points is not that big to make the LED color change
3) Just LEDs not responding at that range. When the unit is capable of heating properly even in LED glitches this could also be believable.

Click to expand...

No, the unit is not blind there. I've found 2) to be true.
When the unit is heated below 3 it can tell a difference between 3 and max on dial.