Sorry i just have one question about this, i sold my solo a year or so ago, but i was always under the impression its conduction. If you put the stem in but not all the way, so its not touching the bottom metal plate, does it still produce good vapor? Theres basically zero airflow without the pvhes stems so how would it be convection?
A vape that's primarily conduction heats by getting the herb in contact with a hot surface. The best example is the old BC Vaporizer design, which is like sprinkling your herb on a hot plate, covering with glass to contain vapor, and then sucking the vapor out. If you can load a stem/whip/bowl with herb and apply it to your heat source, and immediately get a hit, then immediately remove the herb, there's no time for any significant conduction to take place. The fact that the vaporizing process may be improved by allowing some conduction doesn't change the intent of the design. As for calling it a hybrid design, you could do that, but under that definition, a whole bunch of vape models would be labeled that way, including all whip models.
I had a question regaurding charging. Which I guess I could wait till I have my unit in hand, but I'm curious now.
Does the main power switch have to be in the on position to charge like in the 1st DV & N02?
I have made it to page 36 so far! Arrrgh My eyes lol.
That's a valid point or two. You have to decide if it's worth the little adjustments in your routine. I see it as one of the top vapes at the moment, unquestionably tops on taste, but it might not be for everyone. No question that the Solo's heater is a more mature design, it's impressive how evenly it browns stuff. But I just dabbed on a SS pad in the Solo and it feeds ya a very hot toke, where the Firefly gives lovely cool vapor.
I'm not sure it's the coil position that's making the difference. Of all the components in there the coil seems hardest to move, but seems to be the most randomly placed (just kind of sitting there in the ceramic encasement).
I just have a hunch that my unit worked better after re-assembly because the components were lined up correctly.
I have now done several sessions without combusting, still with shorter button presses than before. It feels like it may be "back to its old self" now. I'm just pretty paranoid of combustion - I don't want to "reset the clock" waiting for the combustion smell to fade from my Firefly
Well, I have to respectfully disagree...I believe coil position is most certainly a significant factor.I'm not convinced that is the case. I don't believe I affected a significant change in the coil's position when I manipulated it. I was "chicken" and barely moved it at all.
I'm not sure it's the coil position that's making the difference. Of all the components in there the coil seems hardest to move, but seems to be the most randomly placed (just kind of sitting there in the ceramic encasement).
However both of the white ceramic(?) components, the metal plate, the o-rings, and the glass bowl can all move pretty freely before the top plate is tightened. They can "line up" differently depending on how they are positioned before re-assembly. True there are notches in the top ceramic plate, but there is still a lot of play on the various components.
One indication of this is the slightly smaller gap between the glass bowl and the metal plate when I reassembled my silver unit.
For all 3 combustion events that I experienced, the burning seemed to start in the center of the bowl, like a stream of super-heated air suddenly came up through the little ceramic "core" in the bottom retaining ring, through the holes in the metal plate, and into the glass bowl (PURE SPECULATION).
I just have a hunch that my unit worked better after re-assembly because the components were lined up correctly.
I have now done several sessions without combusting, still with shorter button presses than before. It feels like it may be "back to its old self" now. I'm just pretty paranoid of combustion - I don't want to "reset the clock" waiting for the combustion smell to fade from my Firefly
Well, I have to respectfully disagree...I believe coil position is most certainly a significant factor.
However, lining up the ceramic parts properly seemed to improve the airflow.
Again, just my belief. I'm no engineer.
EDIT: Yes! Don't mess with your coil if you have any doubts about how to manipulate it.
That all makes a lot of sense. Appreciate that information.
So listen to this, the new, I just noticed that the screen seemed smaller? I checked it against the ones I had and it's the same size? Bigger bowl? So I took it out and I noticed that I can see the oring more in one area than another previously it was tucked away a lot more ??? Think I need to open it up and check the ring AND NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE while I'm in there
