ThCombustion

Well-Known Member
Just one? :lol:



My only issue was muscle memory. Learning to juggle holding the whip, the wand and not blowing into the whip. Throwing a water pipe into the mix makes it even trickier, as you have to lift the WPA before you stop drawing or the back pressure of the water settling could blow stuff out of your wand.


Yeah, I'm sure using it in of itself will take some getting used to, I was just saying I hope there isn't much difficulty adapting my draw speed/style to the SSV. I'm, excited guys! Reading this forum over and backwards.
 
ThCombustion,

Tweak

T\/\/34|<
In regards to the EQ bowl mod: how do you remove the rim from the EQ screen?

It's a real PITA but I haven't found an alternative screen yet.

Use a flat head screwdriver to shove the screen in where the metal lip holds. It gets scary and frustrating, but when it comes free you will think you've poked through it, lol. The last few I've done where way harder than the first two, finally tore the last little bit instead of gently pulling it out. I tried separating the metal lip without any avail, but maybe I did loosen it up a bit.

There isn't much being held by the little lip, but I'm weary about cutting screens because of the jagged edges left behind.

I was just saying I hope there isn't much difficulty adapting my draw speed/style to the SSV. I'm, excited guys! Reading this forum over and backwards.

Yeah it is pretty forgiving unless you draw really really slow relative to your heat. I find the best draw is using diaphragmatic breathing, not so much just sucking.
 
Tweak,

grokit

well-worn member
I have found that technique is important with the ssv,
but how important depends on your heater cover/wand selection.

Ime, technique makes a bigger difference with the standard setup than with the ground glass.
I have not tried the spherical setup.
 

max

Out to lunch
Ime, technique makes a bigger difference with the standard setup than with the ground glass.
Very true. The GG connection is like an automatic compared to standard/stick shift. The SSV is still my all time favorite for 'what kind of hit (size wise) am I gonna get this time?'
 

Tweak

T\/\/34|<
I have found that technique is important with the ssv,
but how important depends on your heater cover/wand selection.

Just for the sake of conversation, how so? I haven't ventured from the Standard wand since switching, both my SGG and GG HC have broken.

I used to struggle with the temperature setting until I eliminated the gap difference between HC and material. First hit would shrink my load, so even if the first hit was good, the second would be wispy. Now I move the screen closer/farther, depending on load size.

I was getting the same problem with my e-nano, until I started using a screen as a spacer.
 
Tweak,

ThCombustion

Well-Known Member
I was also wondering about some current thoughts on the fatty wands. As I searched the thread I couldn't find a lot about it.
 
ThCombustion,

grokit

well-worn member
I haven't used the standard setup regularly in quite a while,
but with the ground glass just get your heat right and give the load an occasional stir.

With the standard setup, you can actively rotate the hot spot but still need to stir.
 

Raskin666

Doom Walrus
I tend to boost my temp knob. Usually start around 1 o clock and end a little past 3. I see a lot of people leave it at one setting. Am I doing something strange?

Also, I use a 14mm WPA to a single perc bong with ice pinch. I prefer it this way with water and ice, but occasionally use the regular mouthpiece as well. Anyone have a suggestion for a waterpipe style or tool?
 

grokit

well-worn member
I tend to boost my temp knob. Usually start around 1 o clock and end a little past 3. I see a lot of people leave it at one setting. Am I doing something strange?

Also, I use a 14mm WPA to a single perc bong with ice pinch. I prefer it this way with water and ice, but occasionally use the regular mouthpiece as well. Anyone have a suggestion for a waterpipe style or tool?

I like to turn the knob up a bit more than usual late at night or if I wake up and want more sleep.

ctc_4813.jpg

As far as bubblers go,
I have always liked the old-school tripods from 7th floor with my ssv.
 

MrCatsFather

New Member
Hi guys I have had an EQ for the last three years and just picked up my SSV... It's been extremely frustrating since I just can't seem to get it to hit right.. I tried to raise the heating element (the stick) and it raised a little which helped to create a better hit... But, I still have to raise the heating element.. I keep pulling, but I dont want to break it :(. Anyone have any ideas? I'm so jealous of everyone else's experience lol
 
MrCatsFather,

ThCombustion

Well-Known Member
Hi guys I have had an EQ for the last three years and just picked up my SSV... It's been extremely frustrating since I just can't seem to get it to hit right.. I tried to raise the heating element (the stick) and it raised a little which helped to create a better hit... But, I still have to raise the heating element.. I keep pulling, but I dont want to break it :(. Anyone have any ideas? I'm so jealous of everyone else's experience lol

Hey man, what color combo did you get? You should post some pics of it. There's not enough pics in this thread :'(
 
ThCombustion,
  • Like
Reactions: Raskin666

Clunis

Vapor-Highzer
MrCatsFather said:
Hi guys I have had an EQ for the last three years and just picked up my SSV... It's been extremely frustrating since I just can't seem to get it to hit right.. I tried to raise the heating element (the stick) and it raised a little which helped to create a better hit... But, I still have to raise the heating element.. I keep pulling, but I dont want to break it :(. Anyone have any ideas? I'm so jealous of everyone else's experience lol
Do you have the new style HC stand with the tension clip? It's spring loaded so I think you'll only be able to pull it up so much I think; someone correct me if I'm wrong. If I look into the HC hole (standard) the ceramic heating element in just below my eye level when viewing with the element parallel to me

I just got mine as well and I've been getting some nice clouds. Have you tried adjusting your draw technique? Tweak mentioned diaphragmatic breathing a little further up and I found this was key.
 

hoptimum

Well-Known Member
Hi guys I have had an EQ for the last three years and just picked up my SSV... It's been extremely frustrating since I just can't seem to get it to hit right.. I tried to raise the heating element (the stick) and it raised a little which helped to create a better hit... But, I still have to raise the heating element.. I keep pulling, but I dont want to break it :(. Anyone have any ideas? I'm so jealous of everyone else's experience lol

How far do you turn your temperature dial?
 
hoptimum,
  • Like
Reactions: Raskin666

chimpybits

Well-Known Member
It's a real PITA but I haven't found an alternative screen yet.

Use a flat head screwdriver to shove the screen in where the metal lip holds. It gets scary and frustrating, but when it comes free you will think you've poked through it, lol. The last few I've done where way harder than the first two, finally tore the last little bit instead of gently pulling it out. I tried separating the metal lip without any avail, but maybe I did loosen it up a bit.

There isn't much being held by the little lip, but I'm weary about cutting screens because of the jagged edges left behind.



Yeah it is pretty forgiving unless you draw really really slow relative to your heat. I find the best draw is using diaphragmatic breathing, not so much just sucking.
...I used to struggle with the temperature setting until I eliminated the gap difference between HC and material. First hit would shrink my load, so even if the first hit was good, the second would be wispy. Now I move the screen closer/farther, depending on load size.

I was getting the same problem with my e-nano, until I started using a screen as a spacer.
I should try your technique with the screwdriver to remove the screen from the ring. I just cut around that ring, but ended up with a screen that is too small for my wand.

Instead, I've shoved a short length of whip inside my wand with a screen underneath and on top. This creates a raised platform for my load closer to the heat. However, not surprisingly the narrower bore has increased the restriction.

Bringing my stuff closer closer to the heat improves the extraction. After years of consistently being unable to get my flowers beyond a medium brown, I'm finally able to achieve a dark, even extraction. The hits are also denser.

There was a thread elsewhere discussing the ability to turn up the heat to improve the extraction. My experience is that cranking the heat does not overcome deep bowls. I know that I tried many times - high heat, long sessions, etc - and the load would consistently achieve the same color. Generally, my sessions go from about 12.30-2.30.

Agree too with Tweak's experience regarding shrinking loads as well as diaphragmatic breathing.

So, if some are having issues with hit quality and extraction consider buying a less deep wand, the EQ screen mod, or some other tweak to bring the load closer to the heat.
 
chimpybits,
  • Like
Reactions: Tweak

Vitolo

Vaporist
Do not mess with lifting and lowering element any more.
Practice with heat turned to 3 pm on that dial... and adjust draw speed.
 

Tweak

T\/\/34|<
The glass dial can can removed and placed back on at a different position. . My off is 6 o'clock, max I go is 12.
 
Tweak,

themaddone

The Ticktockman
Instead, I've shoved a short length of whip inside my wand with a screen underneath and on top. This creates a raised platform for my load closer to the heat. However, not surprisingly the narrower bore has increased the restriction.

Pictures of this would be seriously appreciated!
 
themaddone,
Top Bottom