Arizer Solo

ataxian

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
herbivore21 said:
GenYHippie, upping the heat does indeed bring out sleepy compounds. I can't remember where abouts on the forum it was, but there is a thread detailing the heat ranges at which each compound is released and which effects to expect from them :)
Click to expand...
Suggested Vaporization Temperatures By Cannabis Strain Type
Sample Strain (Type)Fav Daytime TempFav Nighttime Temp
Candy Jack (Sativa) 178°C / 352°F190°C / 374°F
Super Lemon Haze (Sativa dominant)190°C / 374°F195°C / 383°F
Cherry Pie (Indica dominant)195°C / 383°F202°C / 396°F
Granddaddy Purple (Indica)202°C / 396°F208°C / 406°F
High Temperature Note: With temperatures above 200°C traceable amounts of benzene are found in the vapor mist (a compound you’d rather avoid). Benzene contributes to couch lock and the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has concluded that there is sufficient evidence for carcinogenicity to humans. Although for all these alleged carcinogens in cannabis, still no proof has yet been found to link cannabis to lung cancer. Combustion of the cannabis plant matter begins at 230°C, where larger amounts of benzene are noted as well as other toxins such as carbon monoxide and smoke tars.

Caveats & Assumptions for Temperature Table:

  • Assumes you grind your cannabis,which is optimal for the vaporizer.
  • Assumes smoking a traditional sativa (lower CBD:THC ratio) for mental high and smoking a traditional indica (higher CBD:THC ratio) for total body high. There’s no perfect fit, i.e. not every sativa has similar CBD:THC ratios and other compounds still differ.
  • Assumes your cannabis is cured and stored well.
  • Each vaporizer can differ in its temperature accuracy.
  • Each strain and each batch of a given strain are unique.
Now throw your personal preferences into the mix. Hopefully this information will help you start some fun and invaluable personal research to share with weedists everywhere!

Tailoring Your High Series:
  1. Tailoring Your High: Intro to Temperature Control With a Vaporizer [this post]
  2. Tailoring Your High: Compounds in Cannabis, Properties and Boiling Points
  3. Tailoring Your High: Medical Properties of Cannabis Defined
Categories: Cannabis 101, Cannabis Facts, Features, Vaporizers, Weed Lifestyle
Tags: cannanbinoids, cbd, cbn, hybrid, indica, linalool, sativa, super lemon haze, temperature, terpenes, thc, toxins, Volcano.
By: Moirai. Permalink: Shortlink: http://weedi.st/yWXUX
 
pakalolo

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
ataxian said:
Suggested Vaporization Temperatures By Cannabis Strain Type
Sample Strain (Type)Fav Daytime TempFav Nighttime Temp
Candy Jack (Sativa) 178°C / 352°F190°C / 374°F
Super Lemon Haze (Sativa dominant)190°C / 374°F195°C / 383°F
Cherry Pie (Indica dominant)195°C / 383°F202°C / 396°F
Granddaddy Purple (Indica)202°C / 396°F208°C / 406°F
High Temperature Note: With temperatures above 200°C traceable amounts of benzene are found in the vapor mist (a compound you’d rather avoid). Benzene contributes to couch lock and the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has concluded that there is sufficient evidence for carcinogenicity to humans. Although for all these alleged carcinogens in cannabis, still no proof has yet been found to link cannabis to lung cancer. Combustion of the cannabis plant matter begins at 230°C, where larger amounts of benzene are noted as well as other toxins such as carbon monoxide and smoke tars.

Caveats & Assumptions for Temperature Table:

  • Assumes you grind your cannabis,which is optimal for the vaporizer.
  • Assumes smoking a traditional sativa (lower CBD:THC ratio) for mental high and smoking a traditional indica (higher CBD:THC ratio) for total body high. There’s no perfect fit, i.e. not every sativa has similar CBD:THC ratios and other compounds still differ.
  • Assumes your cannabis is cured and stored well.
  • Each vaporizer can differ in its temperature accuracy.
  • Each strain and each batch of a given strain are unique.
Now throw your personal preferences into the mix. Hopefully this information will help you start some fun and invaluable personal research to share with weedists everywhere!

Tailoring Your High Series:
  1. Tailoring Your High: Intro to Temperature Control With a Vaporizer [this post]
  2. Tailoring Your High: Compounds in Cannabis, Properties and Boiling Points
  3. Tailoring Your High: Medical Properties of Cannabis Defined
Categories: Cannabis 101, Cannabis Facts, Features, Vaporizers, Weed Lifestyle
Tags: cannanbinoids, cbd, cbn, hybrid, indica, linalool, sativa, super lemon haze, temperature, terpenes, thc, toxins, Volcano.
By: Moirai. Permalink: Shortlink: http://weedi.st/yWXUX
Click to expand...

These articles encourage the fallacy that vaporization is binary, i.e. that if you select the right temperature, you'll get compound A but not compound B which has a boiling point only a few degrees higher. They don't specifically state that, but they encourage that conclusion. I'm willing to bet that the author thinks that vapourization is binary.

What you will get at the boiling temperature for A is not only vapour that has the highest ratio of A to other components, but also plenty of compounds with higher boiling points. This doesn't mean that temperature selection doesn't matter, but it does mean that it's wrong to think that you can avoid high temperature compounds by just choosing a lower temperature.
 
ataxian

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
pakalolo said:
These articles encourage the fallacy that vaporization is binary, i.e. that if you select the right temperature, you'll get compound A but not compound B which has a boiling point only a few degrees higher. They don't specifically state that, but they encourage that conclusion. I'm willing to bet that the author thinks that vaporization is binary.

What you will get at the boiling temperature for A is not only vapor that has the highest ratio of A to other components, but also plenty of compounds with higher boiling points. This doesn't mean that temperature selection doesn't matter, but it does mean that it's wrong to think that you can avoid high temperature compounds by just choosing a lower temperature.
Click to expand...
I agree but it's nice to look at it structured then develop your on logic!
GenYHippie said:
ETA: While im in here does anyone know what options I have for capping my stems?.
Click to expand...
k5g4Lau.jpg

Daily tools! (some)
http://www.planetvape.ca/solo-vaporizer-travel-caps-2.html

This in the morning with GPD (note purple speckles)!
This SPACE CASE and SOLO are over 2 1/2 years old!
Bubbler/D020 $28 (including postage) is my solo driver lately!
 
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Bearded Dude

Bearded Dude

Active Member
Dr. Soxhlet said:
I use the bottom of a plastic 35mm film canister tilted at an angle and rotated so as to give even pressure to both sides of the black ring. I do this after warmup and only insert and remove the stem when the unit is warmed up. I don't think that doing this when cold does it any good. Have had good results so far this way. No "O" ring required so far.
Click to expand...
Good tip! Thanks!
 
Bearded Dude,
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
Guys, just a reminder on the never ending o-ring discussion: We invented the idea.

It seems very clear to me that Arizer never saw a 'loose stem' as a problem any more than PD, HI or any of the other stem vape makers do. In fact, their stems rattle don't they? You'd never think of expecting them to not fall out would you?

We, for our own reasons, decided this was an important thing to mess with. I'm at least as guilty as the next guy since my casual vaping style didn't mesh well at all with chasing the bent stem around. I want to hit without having to look first. To have to cheat a peek or two distracts from enjoying the garden don't you see?

There is no such thing as a 'standard size' for the stems I think, only an acceptable range. I think the stems are 'blown' into a graphite block tool so the final OD depends on the material, thickness, and temperature (which effect 'pull back' on cooling) and the ID of the tool (which varies with temperature and wear). Stems from different runs (let alone different makers) the exact same size would be a wild strike of luck.

As I've said before, I usually use a ring with notches on the bottom side to improve air flow (since the ring does block the top, which the maker never expected) but actually use one of 3 (two notched, one with the bore sanded, the thrid 'out of the bag') depending on which works more to my liking with the stem I want to use.

I don't think the maker ever had 'one size fits all' in mind, we made that part up too.

OF
 
Bearded Dude

Bearded Dude

Active Member
I see your point OF... Arizer only sells the straight stem and the bent stem. They don't sell GonG's like PV so I guess it shouldn't be a surprise if they don't fit and fall out as they didn't intend people to use those and then flip them upside down in a bubbler. I also understand what you're saying about the glass blowing process too and how EXACT same sizes aren't to be expected. This obviously can cause problems though when trying to order replacement stems, some will work and some won't I guess. Kind of expensive if you get a few that don't fit.

After reading the comments and looking at my unit my issue definitely seems to be from inserting and removing (a couple times) the largest stem I have when COLD. It seems to have warped the black ring a bit and made the hold extra loose. After trying to form it back it seems to have helped keep my thinner stems still again.
 
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vv132

vv132

Active Member
so after trying to take out the screen of my pv straight stem with a paper clip the end of the stem broke or chipped off. So frustrated. How do you post pics on here want to show you guys, so I dont do it again. I tap the stem when the session is done to get all the stuff out thats the only reason I can think for it breaking
 
vv132,
tdriver

tdriver

Well-Known Member
one of my stem is a bit rough on the mouth side, it's very annoying.
it doesn't have that round finish on the edge the other stem has.

is it possible to heat it up with a blow torch, melt it a bit, and make the edge round/smooth ?

I think I saw a photo in some thread where someone did something similar, but instead pushed the stems edge a bit to make it like a mouthpiece...... I just want it to be smooth.
 
tdriver,
Dr. Soxhlet

Dr. Soxhlet

SOLO Vaporized Cannabis is my Best Medicine
OF said:
Guys, just a reminder on the never ending o-ring discussion: We invented the idea.

It seems very clear to me that Arizer never saw a 'loose stem' as a problem any more than PD, HI or any of the other stem vape makers do. In fact, their stems rattle don't they? You'd never think of expecting them to not fall out would you?

We, for our own reasons, decided this was an important thing to mess with. I'm at least as guilty as the next guy since my casual vaping style didn't mesh well at all with chasing the bent stem around. I want to hit without having to look first. To have to cheat a peek or two distracts from enjoying the garden don't you see?

There is no such thing as a 'standard size' for the stems I think, only an acceptable range. I think the stems are 'blown' into a graphite block tool so the final OD depends on the material, thickness, and temperature (which effect 'pull back' on cooling) and the ID of the tool (which varies with temperature and wear). Stems from different runs (let alone different makers) the exact same size would be a wild strike of luck.

As I've said before, I usually use a ring with notches on the bottom side to improve air flow (since the ring does block the top, which the maker never expected) but actually use one of 3 (two notched, one with the bore sanded, the thrid 'out of the bag') depending on which works more to my liking with the stem I want to use.

I don't think the maker ever had 'one size fits all' in mind, we made that part up too.

OF
Click to expand...

I guess the point is when these new units are used the first time the ring is flush with the top of the heating chamber and the stems are tight. After using it for a while, it becomes loose because that ring does not stay where it is supposed to. As I agree that other brands have loose stems, I do not believe this is an intened condition, just a common one. If there were no bent stem, perhaps not as many would notice this; dare I call it a defect. I know the #113 "O" ring that users add, keeps a grip on its' own but I wonder how much the success of this method has to do with keeping that black ring in place and so also keeping things snug. The larger heating chamber holes allow things to work the way it was really intended rusulting in huge clouds even at level 5.

Perhaps a better instruction manual (the one they send is out of date and a joke really) would help users sort out some of these concerns. Imagine the frustration of an owner with a problem that has not discovered this forum.

A side from such minor stuff I have to say my Solo(M1D2) hits as strong as a joint without all the nasty stuff.
 
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Bearded Dude

Bearded Dude

Active Member
Dr. Soxhlet said:
Perhaps a better instruction manual (the one they send is out of date and a joke really) would help users sort out some of these concerns. Imagine the frustration of an owner with a problem that has not discovered this forum.

A side from such minor stuff I have to say my Solo(M1D2) hits as strong as a joint without all the nasty stuff.
Click to expand...
Definitely agree with you that better instructions are needed.

With that said, while it may be more of a pain in the ass vs smoking.. it sure tastes and feels way better. After vaping for a week I had a couple bong hits and man is that ever gross comparatively lol. With vaping the effects are way more heady and don't put me right to sleep, plus it's no where near as hard on my lungs and tastes amazing.

Vaping absolutely is the way to go... I just hope these things get more user-friendly lol or rather "stoner-friendly"
 
2clicker

2clicker

Observer
i think its weird that so many user are having issues with the black/grey ring on the solo. i used min w/out an oring/washer for a few days before the stems got loose. loose stem does not work for me. i want the solo to hold the stem in it firmly. a washer or oring does this.

directions for installing oring or washer... unscrew top from solo > insert stem into solo > slide oring or washer down the stem until it rests ontop of the black ring > with stem still in solo screw top back onto solo > remove stem > thats it.

ive had my washer on my solo for almost a year now with zero problems. it grips the stem perfectly keeping it in place. has a great "rubbery" action when inserting and removing stems. it also allows you to slightly pull the stem off the heat chamber floor. this improves airflow just like a PVHE stem. i dont see how doing this mod could possibly do any harm to a solo.

ive used this mod on 3 dif solos all with the same results.
 
2clicker,
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Dr. Soxhlet

Dr. Soxhlet

SOLO Vaporized Cannabis is my Best Medicine
2clicker said:
i think its weird that so many user are having issues with the black/grey ring on the solo. i used min w/out an oring/washer for a few days before the stems got loose. loose stem does not work for me. i want the solo to hold the stem in it firmly. a washer or oring does this.

directions for installing oring or washer... unscrew top from solo > insert stem into solo > slide oring or washer down the stem until it rests ontop of the black ring > with stem still in solo screw top back onto solo > remove stem > thats it.

ive had my washer on my solo for almost a year now with zero problems. it grips the stem perfectly keeping it in place. has a great "rubbery" action when inserting and removing stems. it also allows you to slightly pull the stem off the heat chamber floor. this improves airflow just like a PVHE stem. i dont see how doing this mod could possibly do any harm to a solo.

ive used this mod on 3 dif solos all with the same results.
Click to expand...
I used an "O" ring on my first Solo before it broke--worked great. But my new Solo had a cap that only slips on and only engages the threads on the last quarter turn. So I can no longer use the " O" ring solution and have resoted to "adjusting" the black ring when warmed up.

Here's a pic of my film canister technique:
filmcan.jpg


Just rotate the film canister while giving even pressure. I do this while warm and try to remember to only insert and remove the stem when the Solo is warmed up.
 
Last edited:
vv132

vv132

Active Member
how do you post a pic? I would like to post a pic of my broken PVHE straight stem that broke today
 
vv132,
poonman

poonman

Well-Known Member
vv132 said:
so after trying to take out the screen of my pv straight stem with a paper clip the end of the stem broke or chipped off. So frustrated. How do you post pics on here want to show youhttp://fuckcombustion.com/th guys, so I dont do it again. I tap the stem when the session is done to get all the stuff out thats the only reason I can think for it breaking
Click to expand...
here you go
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/how-to-post-pictures.155/
 
ataxian

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
OF said:
Guys, just a reminder on the never ending o-ring discussion: We invented the idea.

It seems very clear to me that Arizer never saw a 'loose stem' as a problem any more than PD, HI or any of the other stem vape makers do. In fact, their stems rattle don't they? You'd never think of expecting them to not fall out would you?

We, for our own reasons, decided this was an important thing to mess with. I'm at least as guilty as the next guy since my casual vaping style didn't mesh well at all with chasing the bent stem around. I want to hit without having to look first. To have to cheat a peek or two distracts from enjoying the garden don't you see?

There is no such thing as a 'standard size' for the stems I think, only an acceptable range. I think the stems are 'blown' into a graphite block tool so the final OD depends on the material, thickness, and temperature (which effect 'pull back' on cooling) and the ID of the tool (which varies with temperature and wear). Stems from different runs (let alone different makers) the exact same size would be a wild strike of luck.

As I've said before, I usually use a ring with notches on the bottom side to improve air flow (since the ring does block the top, which the maker never expected) but actually use one of 3 (two notched, one with the bore sanded, the thrid 'out of the bag') depending on which works more to my liking with the stem I want to use.

I don't think the maker ever had 'one size fits all' in mind, we made that part up too.

OF
Click to expand...
I was buying a stem a week in the beginning. I learned how to use a GonG for all kinds of configurations.
Since I went to the seals under the cap I haven't broke a stem.
5HQKwxb.jpg

C5vRa1Y.jpg
 
vv132

vv132

Active Member
hope this works :
7SGQQ2b.jpg


yea RIP PVHE straight stem #1 ,from a damn Paper clip! Went to remove screen with a paper clip, and glass just chipped. ahh so angry, and they are out of stock !i sent them an email with my frustration ! So am I not supposed to tap the material out on a table after session?(only thing I can think of that can cause a paper clip to chip the glass off) Or do I just have shitty luck?

Also Iso +salt didnt get everything out but most of it, do you guys use any particular type of brush, or just a coat hanger type device ?

so frustrated:(
 
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vv132,
SirDarkened

SirDarkened

Active Member
Torontoke said:
any1 know where to get the m1e with paypal for the best price?
Click to expand...

Idk if they accept Paypal but it is well known that puffitup has the Solo160 code. Or the SoloPA code for 190.

I finally sold my old M1B1 and plan on buying one of the newer models as the battery on my old one was pretty shot compared to when I first got it (only lasts like 3-4 sessions now and I'm pretty sure it was closer to 6 originally)

The charge while using feature isn't necessarily something I'll use since I still have the PA but the increased airflow will probably make it all worth it. Plus I broke my original straight stem so now I get a new one :)
 
SirDarkened,
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