FlashVAPE
- Thread starter natural farmer
- Start date
right so i have had much better results with the FV this past bowl and at i got combustion
i am not using the s2 stuff at all its all the stock stuff
i am no holding for 6 sec then strting to inhale for 4-6 sec and its working well
i rely fell that because my FV seams to be a old modal (green battery and cant change heater) that has just sat on the shelf the batterys went funny but seam to be working better now
i will report as i play with it more
i have only had the 3 bowls in the FV so far but i can tell i like her
thank you for taking your time to reply as well @pakalolo
i am not using the s2 stuff at all its all the stock stuff
i am no holding for 6 sec then strting to inhale for 4-6 sec and its working well
i rely fell that because my FV seams to be a old modal (green battery and cant change heater) that has just sat on the shelf the batterys went funny but seam to be working better now
i will report as i play with it more
i have only had the 3 bowls in the FV so far but i can tell i like her
thank you for taking your time to reply as well @pakalolo
You're welcome.
That is a Stage 1 FV. Another way to tell if it's an early model (aside from the serial number of course) is whether the base is finely threaded. To be clear, you can change the heater screen in an early model, it's just harder to do. You just have to apply enough force to overcome the Locktite.
juanavape
Well-Known Member
So is there anything I need to know to change out the "tabbed" screen ? Just grab one of the tabs with a pair of tweezers or pliers and give it a yank then slide the new one down into the bottom of the bowl and maybe push it down around the edges with the opposite end of the cleaning brush or something along those lines ? There's lots of good info on repairs and such on the FV website but info on this simple swap out I couldn't find, (maybe because it's so simple as to be a non brainer, lol).
That's how you do it. It is indeed a no-brainer. The brainer part comes in when you dump in your next load after taking one out. I know at least one person who has forgotten to do this.
got a mflb stem on the way now
went to a mates house with the FV to day and picked up some nice but wet SSH i dint think the FV wold do to well with wet bud but oh my was i wrong the weed was to wet to grind so had to cut up the bud the crush in fingers but it worked real well
could anyone do me a s1 vs s2 brake down or link me to one cant seam to fine a in detail comparison
i am rely liking s1 atm and as im going to have to get some more batterys so if im going s2 i might as well do it now
i would much prefer to not have to take out the spacer to use the other batterys so would probley just stick to s2 if i got the s2 kit
but is it worth it as i can get a duel charger with 2 3.2v batterys or the s2 kit so ild have 2 s2 batterys but still only the signal chargers i would realy like to have a duel charger then i could get 3 batterys on charger at ones
went to a mates house with the FV to day and picked up some nice but wet SSH i dint think the FV wold do to well with wet bud but oh my was i wrong the weed was to wet to grind so had to cut up the bud the crush in fingers but it worked real well
could anyone do me a s1 vs s2 brake down or link me to one cant seam to fine a in detail comparison
i am rely liking s1 atm and as im going to have to get some more batterys so if im going s2 i might as well do it now
i would much prefer to not have to take out the spacer to use the other batterys so would probley just stick to s2 if i got the s2 kit
but is it worth it as i can get a duel charger with 2 3.2v batterys or the s2 kit so ild have 2 s2 batterys but still only the signal chargers i would realy like to have a duel charger then i could get 3 batterys on charger at ones
Fell like I'm getting use to the FV now and am not combusting and getting good vapor so I gave FV a good clean this is when I noticed this crack in the ceramic I am devistated I don't no how this could have happend
That is the best pic I could get its the same on the other side as well what should I do
That is the best pic I could get its the same on the other side as well what should I do
Fell like I'm getting use to the FV now and am not combusting and getting good vapor so I gave FV a good clean this is when I noticed this crack in the ceramic I am devistated I don't no how this could have happend
That is the best pic I could get its the same on the other side as well what should I do
The photo isn't good enough to tell the full extent of the crack, but if you don't remove the bezel (actually yours is sealed) the ceramic will remain in place. I would be comfortable using it in that condition but you might not. In any case, contact @FlashVAPE because that should be a warranty issue.
You asked about S1 (conduction) vs S2 (convection). To be honest, I like both and have been using S1 for both my FVs for a while now. I'll probably go back to S2 when I get the PA. I don't find a huge difference between them in flavour, but S2 is smoother. The biggest difference is in control. It is a lot easier to avoid combustion with the S2 spacer.
Fell like I'm getting use to the FV now and am not combusting and getting good vapor so I gave FV a good clean this is when I noticed this crack in the ceramic I am devistated I don't no how this could have happend
That is the best pic I could get its the same on the other side as well what should I do
This looks like just a hairline crack near the bottom, its not a big deal, as it will not affect the functionality of this FV in any way. There are a couple of small holes for guide pins inside the sidewalls (at the middle position of the rounded sides of bowl), and hairline cracks may form from when the ceramic piece is fired in the kiln at over 1100 degrees because of the hollow holes inside the sidewall. Also, some small hairline cracks may become more noticeable after some usage. As long as it does not extend and widen all the way to the top of the ceramic bowl, it will not affect the structural integrity of the ceramic bowl in any way. This ceramic piece is of solid construction, and with very thick sidewalls! and also when the bowl retainer is tightened, any force on the ceramic is exerted downwards only. So you really have nothing to worry about
FVPA Release Delay
Also, a bit of unfortunate delay in the FVPA shipping date, which is supposed to be today, Feb 14. It looks like we will be shipping all orders on Monday or Tuesday of next week, as we wait for a final safety label required (to specify pre-set input voltage on each FVPA power supply unit) to come from the specialty printing shop. Thank you for your patience while we work on getting your FVPAs out asap.
Revised Release Date: Feb 18th (possibly 17th).
Due to the number of orders we need to process, we will be generating shipping labels over the weekend to minimize delays. So you should see an email from Canadapost notifying you of your pending shipment's tracking number if you made a pre-order for the FVPA.
Thanks again for your patience and support, and please accept our most sincere apology for any inconvenience this small delay may have caused!
Thanks for the reply
I would like to thank all of you at flash vape for a awesome product and brill customer service
I wish I could buy a FVPA that would be fucking amazing but just can't justify it ATM
EDIT to add
@FlashVAPE it would be fucking amazing if you could come up with a GonG for the flashvape i no you have the bubbler but i fell that a GonG add on that would replace the glass would be really good like what @Pipes made but glass would be really cool and work very well as you could use it with s2 battery upside down in a bubbler
I would like to thank all of you at flash vape for a awesome product and brill customer service
I wish I could buy a FVPA that would be fucking amazing but just can't justify it ATM
EDIT to add
@FlashVAPE it would be fucking amazing if you could come up with a GonG for the flashvape i no you have the bubbler but i fell that a GonG add on that would replace the glass would be really good like what @Pipes made but glass would be really cool and work very well as you could use it with s2 battery upside down in a bubbler
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beefsupreme
Well-Known Member
Came back to this thread to see if the PA was released yet and was pleasantly surprised to see that it's almost ready to ship. Got my order in (Happy V-day FlashVAPE!). I'm still enjoying my FV but the only downside is the batteries seem to be getting long in the tooth and not holding charge quite as well. I'm using only the S2 mode, so i'm looking forward to the PA coming and solving that problem. I haven't tried the S1 setup in over a year, so maybe I'll give that a try after Pakalolo's reminder. Once the spacer is in, I haven't wanted to fiddle with it.
@as - a FV designed GonG would be sweet. I've used the 1-foot WPW from my MFLB system with the FV and a showerhead bubbler. It adapts very easily to the FV using the clear rubber bit that holds the stem.
@as - a FV designed GonG would be sweet. I've used the 1-foot WPW from my MFLB system with the FV and a showerhead bubbler. It adapts very easily to the FV using the clear rubber bit that holds the stem.
juanavape
Well-Known Member
Thanks FV for keeping us in the loop (as always:>). Looking forward to it.
The PA is here. Great stuff!!! This is going to be huge. And I even think the price is acceptable as I know what it takes to put a unit like that together. Tried a couple things myself but ended up cheating by using a huge 120 amp adjustable 5 volt monster. Looks like an old hag compared to the sexy FVPA. Can appreciate the thick wire too, as found there is lots of loss in thinner gauge.
Here's a peek at what I ended up using.
Crude but effective. Found that I had to increase voltage at supply to be over 4 volts to compensate for loss in the wire. I turned it up slowly until I got a faint glow as shown here.
The fact that you have this continuously is just the cat's meow. Did not want to post this before there was a solution available for everyone. But can only say I think everyone who gets one will be in for a wild time.
Here's a peek at what I ended up using.
Crude but effective. Found that I had to increase voltage at supply to be over 4 volts to compensate for loss in the wire. I turned it up slowly until I got a faint glow as shown here.
The fact that you have this continuously is just the cat's meow. Did not want to post this before there was a solution available for everyone. But can only say I think everyone who gets one will be in for a wild time.
The PA is here. Great stuff!!! This is going to be huge. And I even think the price is acceptable as I know what it takes to put a unit like that together. Tried a couple things myself but ended up cheating by using a huge 120 amp adjustable 5 volt monster. Looks like an old hag compared to the sexy FVPA. Can appreciate the thick wire too, as found there is lots of loss in thinner gauge.
Here's a peek at what I ended up using.
Crude but effective. Found that I had to increase voltage at supply to be over 4 volts to compensate for loss in the wire. I turned it up slowly until I got a faint glow as shown here.
The fact that you have this continuously is just the cat's meow. Did not want to post this before there was a solution available for everyone. But can only say I think everyone who gets one will be in for a wild time.
...I think we're all waiting for your input Pipes, after your earlier teaser post
The power required to achieve on-demand vaping in the FV is quite huge to start with, and then you have to factor in additional power for low heat, continuous safe operation. So to power the FVPA, what we've ended up with is a custom made, 3.5V, 15A beast of a power supply. The silicon power wire connecting the FV to the PA is full 18AWG for low loss power transmission.
I really like that torpedo looking battery pass-through you've got in your PA Pipes! thats some James Bond 007 stuff right there!
I figured you had made a custom supply. And looks great.
The godzilla supply I used is not much for safety. With 120 amps available it would blow any short out of the way pretty quick. You could likely arc weld with it.
My earlier attempts using a slicer circuit works well except even finding a 12 volt was giving me a hard time. They tend to sense the heavy current pulses and turn off. If I was to further the attempt, I would search out an analog supply that would not shut off from sensing circuits but have enough iron to handle the "average" current.
My theory was to give 12 volts 1/3 (ajustable) of the time. Meaning pushing 25 amps during the "on" time. This would make the "average" current of 8 - 9 amps.
Here is a quick diagram of what I attempted:
Just used an LED dimmer for the slicer circuit and a heat sink on the FET high current switch. All worked on paper but never got a suitable supply. Guessing it would work off a car battery.
Also, now know the need for thicker wires is a must. The wires in the picture got fairly warm during testing.
Now with the FVPA available, I don't think it would be a good idea for folks to be attempting this as there are many safety concerns. This type of project is not recommended for most people and would void warranty as I have likely forfeited myself at this point. But it's in my nature...
That's about it... and was fun.
The godzilla supply I used is not much for safety. With 120 amps available it would blow any short out of the way pretty quick. You could likely arc weld with it.
My earlier attempts using a slicer circuit works well except even finding a 12 volt was giving me a hard time. They tend to sense the heavy current pulses and turn off. If I was to further the attempt, I would search out an analog supply that would not shut off from sensing circuits but have enough iron to handle the "average" current.
My theory was to give 12 volts 1/3 (ajustable) of the time. Meaning pushing 25 amps during the "on" time. This would make the "average" current of 8 - 9 amps.
Here is a quick diagram of what I attempted:
Just used an LED dimmer for the slicer circuit and a heat sink on the FET high current switch. All worked on paper but never got a suitable supply. Guessing it would work off a car battery.
Also, now know the need for thicker wires is a must. The wires in the picture got fairly warm during testing.
Now with the FVPA available, I don't think it would be a good idea for folks to be attempting this as there are many safety concerns. This type of project is not recommended for most people and would void warranty as I have likely forfeited myself at this point. But it's in my nature...
That's about it... and was fun.