Discontinued Thermovape Cera

Arrrrggggggg I broke down on my promise and loaded her up with some ridiculous Herojuana x OG Crumble.
Wow, is all I can say,this new re built cart kicks some serious a$$
I will be getting anther cart, or the luna & cart for sure.
My tolerance does not allow me to get super medicated with one hit, I will get medicated of course but not how I like to feel. 1 gigantic hit of the Cera EO and I might be done for the rest of the night
When I first got her she would knock me and anyone on there a$$, I finally became accustom to the powerful effects because I would barely put her down. Once I sent her out, that was the beginning of my journey with out my cera. The little Cera-less T-Break made me realize how much I need my cera loaded up and ready to annihilate any pain.
Even with my un-cleaned fouled up cart that got fed from garbage extracts to the very best, she performed better than nay vape pen, now shes a freaking pocket oil rig ,straight up!!!

Another thing that amazed me was how efficient the cera is, I knew this already but never really tested that theory except for how long the concentrates would last vs dabbing.
Today I weighed the cart empty @ 42.06, I loaded up .5 of crumble weighed it @ 42.56 grams, took a gigantic hit weighed it @ 42.54, screwed it back on & gave my wife a gigantic lung buster hit weighed it @ 42.52 bouncing to 42.53
Incredible, I dab at least a .05 to .1 dab on the minimum!!!!!!!!!!! (Approximately)
Myabe iam to stoned, but I will have to try this theory out again to confirm, Iam still in disbelief
I called Zeki today just to thank him and the Team after receiving my unit today!!!

I see that they've redesigned the liquid cart. Has anyone tried the new design? The last design didn't really work.

Also, had there been any changes to the oil cart?

I have a preorder for the luna. Does anyone know what day the preorder started?

I had a cera however usps stole it back in June. I can't wait to get my Luna. TET's oil cart plus some co2 oil is as good as a portable can be.

AirDru said:

I see that they've redesigned the liquid cart. Has anyone tried the new design? The last design didn't really work.

Also, had there been any changes to the oil cart?

I have a preorder for the luna. Does anyone know what day the preorder started?

I had a cera however usps stole it back in June. I can't wait to get my Luna. TET's oil cart plus some co2 oil is as good as a portable can be.

Click to expand...

I've been playing around with it, It definitely works when its loaded with the right amount. However ive found it is very easy to overfill or underfill, you have to be conscious of how many drops you put in each time and try to figure out your usage.

Last i checked the EO is still the same assembly as back when i was there, its possible that they lengthened or shortened the resistance wire. I really wish there was a mechanical connection for the resistance wire, that was always a point where we saw increased resistance because its just kinda wrapped around and twisted on the connection.

Cheers

Ok I am back to be a pain again.

After getting new Orbtronics and Panasonic batteries I got my unit to work a few times before it started taking forever to see the coil warm up and at this point it doesn't ever start glowing.

I called TET about a week ago and they asked me to test the LL cart for resistance. My meter was at home so when I got to it I realized the LL cart will not come free of the tube. Its just plain old fashioned stuck.

I have a cart that will not heat up or remove from the Cera.

At this point I have called and left 3 messages as well as an email requesting and RMA number.

Does anyone have any thoughts on my issue?

I've been out of this thread for a while .... thought I'd have a peek to see about any developments ... and wow! The Luna is exactly why I held on to 1 of my 2 Cera EO carts when I sold my Cera. Cool!

I wonder how much it will be just for the Luna handle/power source?

Can someone tell me what the thread size is on the eo? I seem to remember 3/8 24

Smokeyjojackson said:

Ok I am back to be a pain again.

After getting new Orbtronics and Panasonic batteries I got my unit to work a few times before it started taking forever to see the coil warm up and at this point it doesn't ever start glowing.

I called TET about a week ago and they asked me to test the LL cart for resistance. My meter was at home so when I got to it I realized the LL cart will not come free of the tube. Its just plain old fashioned stuck.

I have a cart that will not heat up or remove from the Cera.

At this point I have called and left 3 messages as well as an email requesting and RMA number.

Does anyone have any thoughts on my issue?

Click to expand...

I had this happen. The stuck part. I found that using a large rubber band wrapped around the cart helped.. This increased the grip friction and by increasing the diameter, the mechanical advantage.

Soflo said:

Can someone tell me what the thread size is on the eo? I seem to remember 3/8 24

Click to expand...

this is right - 3/8-24

Smokeyjojackson said:

After getting new Orbtronics and Panasonic batteries I got my unit to work a few times before it started taking forever to see the coil warm up and at this point it doesn't ever start glowing.

I called TET about a week ago and they asked me to test the LL cart for resistance. My meter was at home so when I got to it I realized the LL cart will not come free of the tube. Its just plain old fashioned stuck.

Des anyone have any thoughts on my issue?

Click to expand...

I don't know about others, but I've got lots of thoughts. I'm just not sure what your question really is?

If it's 'how did it get stuck?' I'll bet it's because you let it get contaminated and hot and now can't get it hot to get it free? You need to keep the screw plate clean or stuff will get glued in.

If the question is 'what resistance should the core be?', the answer is 'a little under one Ohm, but you probably can't read it all that accurately. Call anything under say 4 or 5 Ohms as being OK'.

If the question is 'do I need to remove the cart to measure the resistance?', the answer is no, you don't. Just probe through the big holes in the main tube for the center contact on the pin. The shell connection is available on the four little setscrew ends near by'.

If the question is 'how do I get it free?', I suggest you boil it as a unit (remove the battery and switch) then try it with a couple of towels when hot'.

If the question is 'what's wrong with my unit now?', it's almost certainly NOT the cart. If it gets hot at all it's no doubt just fine at this level. My bet is on the switch unless your unit is old enough to have potential strap problems. I suggest the 'ball of foil test', what you may well want is for TV to send you a new switch. In fact, I'm thinking that's most likely.

Regards.

Soflo said:

Can someone tell me what the thread size is on the eo? I seem to remember 3/8 24

Click to expand...

Yup, that's the one. Watch out, this is the (hard to find) fine thread in 3/8 inch. The only 'nuts' I could find at the local hardware store were wing nuts! McMaster Carr, as usual, came through with brass and several versions in steels.

Good luck with your projects, you might want to poke back some, I've posted a lot on this topic (including some photos).

OF

OF said:

I don't know about others, but I've got lots of thoughts. I'm just not sure what your question really is?

If it's 'how did it get stuck?' I'll bet it's because you let it get contaminated and hot and now can't get it hot to get it free? You need to keep the screw plate clean or stuff will get glued in.

If the question is 'what resistance should the core be?', the answer is 'a little under one Ohm, but you probably can't read it all that accurately. Call anything under say 4 or 5 Ohms as being OK'.

If the question is 'do I need to remove the cart to measure the resistance?', the answer is no, you don't. Just probe through the big holes in the main tube for the center contact on the pin. The shell connection is available on the four little setscrew ends near by'.

If the question is 'how do I get it free?', I suggest you boil it as a unit (remove the battery and switch) then try it with a couple of towels when hot'.

If the question is 'what's wrong with my unit now?', it's almost certainly NOT the cart. If it gets hot at all it's no doubt just fine at this level. My bet is on the switch unless your unit is old enough to have potential strap problems. I suggest the 'ball of foil test', what you may well want is for TV to send you a new switch. In fact, I'm thinking that's most likely.

Regards.



Yup, that's the one. Watch out, this is the (hard to find) fine thread in 3/8 inch. The only 'nuts' I could find at the local hardware store were wing nuts! McMaster Carr, as usual, came through with brass and several versions in steels.

Good luck with your projects, you might want to poke back some, I've posted a lot on this topic (including some photos).

OF

Click to expand...

Thanks OF, I've already made a few mechanical mods from copper and nuts, I'm now on to the idea of retapping a mechanical mod for ecigs. Here's the idea. Magnetic switch mechanical mod for the rca123 batt? with the Eo cart. I realize battery life won't be as good, but it'll be super small in comparison, and the mmods are only like $20. And I have a 3/8 fine thread tap avaliable. What kind of performance can I expect from a single rca123?

Soflo said:

Magnetic switch mechanical mod for the rca123 batt? with the Eo cart. I realize battery life won't be as good, but it'll be super small in comparison, and the mmods are only like $20. And I have a 3/8 fine thread tap avaliable. What kind of performance can I expect from a single rca123?

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I'm not sure what a "magnetic switch" is, least ways one that would be of help to us. I'm not sure that matters?

I think you meant "RCR123A"? If so, you'll be SOL. Consider fully charged it's at the level the hot rock 18650 it's designed to run with is dead. Not enough power, really. I'd say either use a 18350 and take the lower performance (they could have done this if it was a really nifty idea, they're sure to have tried).

I think you'd be better off running a Revolution/DART at this level. It's where, power wise, it's designed to run. You're up against it. Using the best IMR1450s the best EO core performance is OK. Go less and you suffer big time.

By all means do experiment, I surely have, but I'd advise against planning on some magic breakthrough.

Anyway, RCR123As done't have high enough voltage to push enough current to feed the bulldog.

Good luck with it.

OF

OF said:

I'm not sure what a "magnetic switch" is, least ways one that would be of help to us. I'm not sure that matters?

I think you meant "RCR123A"? If so, you'll be SOL. Consider fully charged it's at the level the hot rock 18650 it's designed to run with is dead. Not enough power, really. I'd say either use a 18350 and take the lower performance (they could have done this if it was a really nifty idea, they're sure to have tried).

I think you'd be better off running a Revolution/DART at this level. It's where, power wise, it's designed to run. You're up against it. Using the best IMR1450s the best EO core performance is OK. Go less and you suffer big time.

By all means do experiment, I surely have, but I'd advise against planning on some magic breakthrough.

Anyway, RCR123As done't have high enough voltage to push enough current to feed the bulldog.

Good luck with it.

OF

Click to expand...

magnetic switches work by putting two ring magnets at the bottom opposite each other so that normally they push away, and you have to press it together to complete the circuit. the resistance comes from the magnets repelling each other. most mech mods use a spring-bottom with a safety ring, I haven't seen too many magnetic switch mods around, at least not in shops.

They are out there, and pretty cheap too, once I tried the action on one, I really liked it. Fastech has them all day long. I'm probably going to get a telescopic mmod and tap it out for the eo, then ill be able to try different battery combos

Quetzalcoatl said:

magnetic switches work by putting two ring magnets at the bottom opposite each other so that normally they push away, and you have to press it together to complete the circuit. the resistance comes from the magnets repelling each other. most mech mods use a spring-bottom with a safety ring, I haven't seen too many magnetic switch mods around, at least not in shops.

Click to expand...

Thanks Q Man, I was afraid of that.....

Neat idea and all, but dicey contact (like fighting a magnet...) and lots of current (like we have here) means heat....and heat destroys magnets.

At least it's not an attempt at a 5 Amp reed switch.

I'll let someone else dive in on this one I think. Thanks again for the info.

OF

http://www.vapesquad.com/review-the-smok-magneto/
He is a link to the mod and it talks about exactly what you describe, and that they have addressed the issues, .15v drop

Hello everyone I'm new to this forum and just received my Cera today! I'm so excited, but I'm having a problem and don't want to use it yet until I figure it out. I ordered the LL Cera with an EO cart separate, and when I tried to remove my LL cart from the body it just wouldn't budge. I have not used the unit yet and its still fresh out the box. The quick start guide says to twist it counter clock wise to remove, but I've literally cut my fingers on the ceramic trying to do exactly that. I don't know what's wrong and any suggestions on how I can safely remove the cart would be greatly appreciated. I don't really want to send it back in to them, but if I have to I will. If that ends up being the case, do you guys think I can use it a few times and clean it well enough without removing the cart to send back to TV?

EDIT: Also, does anyone know of an affordable bong or hydro tube (like the Vapor Blunt 2.0 and Pinnacle Hydro tubes) that would mesh well with Cera? I know you can pretty much hook her up to anything, but does anyone have a favorite. Or any specific features I should be looking for in a glass piece?

Wubleton said:

Hello everyone I'm new to this forum and just received my Cera today! I'm so excited, but I'm having a problem and don't want to use it yet until I figure it out. I ordered the LL Cera with an EO cart separate, and when I tried to remove my LL cart from the body it just wouldn't budge. I have not used the unit yet and its still fresh out the box. The quick start guide says to twist it counter clock wise to remove, but I've literally cut my fingers on the ceramic trying to do exactly that. I don't know what's wrong and any suggestions on how I can safely remove the cart would be greatly appreciated. I don't really want to send it back in to them, but if I have to I will. If that ends up being the case, do you guys think I can use it a few times and clean it well enough without removing the cart to send back to TV?

EDIT: Also, does anyone know of an affordable bong or hydro tube (like the Vapor Blunt 2.0 and Pinnacle Hydro tubes) that would mesh well with Cera? I know you can pretty much hook her up to anything, but does anyone have a favorite. Or any specific features I should be looking for in a glass piece?

Click to expand...

Hi W,

First off, a quick welcome to the forum. Lots of helpful people - a valuable resource for certain.

Now to your question. If you have one of the 'silicon condoms' - you can remove it from the mouthpiece cover and use it to get a firm grip on the LL cart in order to remove it (and yes, turn counter-clockwise to remove).

As for the WT, I'm certainly no expert, but I have been using the PNWT with both the LL and EO carts with a great deal of success. Pretty solid little piece (I'm a bit clumsy at times) that mates well with CERA.

Hope this helps. Get ready to fall in love...

NN

NoName said:

Hi W,

First off, a quick welcome to the forum. Lots of helpful people - a valuable resource for certain.

Now to your question. If you have one of the 'silicon condoms' - you can remove it from the mouthpiece cover and use it to get a firm grip on the LL cart in order to remove it (and yes, turn counter-clockwise to remove).

As for the WT, I'm certainly no expert, but I have been using the PNWT with both the LL and EO carts with a great deal of success. Pretty solid little piece (I'm a bit clumsy at times) that mates well with CERA.

Hope this helps. Get ready to fall in love...

NN

Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion man, but unfortunately it still won't even budge. Its really stuck in there! I know someone suggested earlier that boiling the unit with just the body and the cart that's stuck in it might help loosen it. Can anyone else vogue for this as a possible solution. Or at least let me know if boiling the body and the cart that's stuck, without the top cap, mouthpiece, button, and battery will do any harm to the unit. I know you can boil the carts supposedly, but I've never heard TV say that the body can be boiled as well.

There's nothing in the body that will be damaged by boiling it but that probably won't fix your problem. That was a suggestion for someone who couldn't get a use cart out that also wouldn't heat up because it is possible to blow vapor through the bottom which will then condense and "glue" it in place.

clouded vision said:

There's nothing in the body that will be damaged by boiling it but that probably won't fix your problem. That was a suggestion because it is possible to blow vapor through the bottom which will then condense and "glue" it in place.

Click to expand...

So I guess I am at a stale mate here. I've literally put all my strength into twisting the darn thing and it won't budge the slightest bit. It this just a manufacturing defect? Should I send it back to TV? and most importantly, can I at least hit a few bowls out of the LL cart and be able to clean it well enough to send back without removing it?

EDIT: I've really never sent a vaporizer or anything of the likes through mail, and I don't know how clean it needs to be and what precautions need to be taken. I live in CA so it should only be traveling within the state seen as TV is located here (right?)

Wubleton said:

So I guess I am at a stale mate here. I've literally put all my strength into twisting the darn thing and it won't budge the slightest bit. It this just a manufacturing defect? Should I send it back to TV? and most importantly, can I at least hit a few bowls out of the LL cart and be able to clean it well enough to send back without removing it?

EDIT: I've really never sent a vaporizer or anything of the likes through mail, and I don't know how clean it needs to be and what precautions need to be taken. I live in CA so it should only be traveling within the state seen as TV is located here (right?)

Click to expand...

W,

Hmmm, bummer. Sorry to say but it sounds like you may have to return it to TET. The LL cart cleans up real well - hold the cart upside down and wipe down with a slightly ISO-soaked Q-tip. You should be good to go (especially if after only a few bowls). And who knows? - it might come loose after firing her up.

And yes, TET is located in CA (Redwood City). TET has outstanding customer service. You might try contacting Zeki at TET (phone and/or email) if you have any additional concerns regarding shipping.

Best of luck,
NN

Wubleton said:

So I guess I am at a stale mate here. I've literally put all my strength into twisting the darn thing and it won't budge the slightest bit. It this just a manufacturing defect? Should I send it back to TV? and most importantly, can I at least hit a few bowls out of the LL cart and be able to clean it well enough to send back without removing it?

EDIT: I've really never sent a vaporizer or anything of the likes through mail, and I don't know how clean it needs to be and what precautions need to be taken. I live in CA so it should only be traveling within the state seen as TV is located here (right?)

Click to expand...

EDIT2: Also, is the cartridge itself supposed to be slightly loose and able to wiggle while attached to the body?

Wubleton said:

EDIT2: Also, is the cartridge itself supposed to be slightly loose and able to wiggle while attached to the body?

Click to expand...

Yes. It's designed that way. Have you tried firing it up yet? Although easy to clean, you might want to verify that it 'gets hot' prior to your first bowl. With a fully charged 18650 battery you should see the core glow in about 8 seconds (seen best in a dimly lit room with the MP/cap removed).

NN

NoName said:

Yes. It's designed that way. Have you tried firing it up yet? Although easy to clean, you might want to verify that it 'gets hot' prior to your first bowl. With a fully charged 18650 battery you should see the core glow in about 8 seconds (seen best in a dimly lit room with the MP/cap removed).

NN

Click to expand...

Oh yeah it heats up beautifully! I've emailed TV letting them know my situation and asking them if they have a home remedy or if I should send it back it. Thank you everyone especially NoName for all the information and help it is much appreciated!

Wubleton said:

Oh yeah it heats up beautifully! I've emailed TV letting them know my situation and asking them if they have a home remedy or if I should send it back it. Thank you everyone especially NoName for all the information and help it is much appreciated!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words. You're most welcome! Great that she fires up! I'll keep my fingers crossed that the cart loosens up and saves you the time/shipping/expense.

NN