The Extreme-Q Vaporizer

Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
If you have silicon tubing instead of the stock pvc it will work better than the glass. I think the glass is too small

I have silicon tubing but i dont want to use that for attaching to my bong , i want to go glass on glass with the bong and q. , thank you Stu 18mm it is , now i need to find a downstem for my bong but all i see is 14mm and i think the older jerome bakers are all 12mm and i cant find a glass on glass 12mm to 18mm downstem. shoot



Also are the new units black bc that's what I recieved in the mail today ?
 
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Justpassedu,

Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
awesome thanks guys. Gonna try my q out tonight after work , cant wait, it finally arrived and its smaller than i thought. Allot smaller than the volcano i had so thats a plus. So i just ran home quick on lunch break and measured my downstem on my bong , its def 12mm and id to fit glass on glass in it but 18mm to 12mm is very rare to find when converting , i did find one but its out of my price range , do you think i can get away with fitting a 18mm/14mm downstem in it ?
 
Justpassedu,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
i want to try and do it without having to get a adapter , are the q's glass parts 18mm or 14mm that fit into the downstem of a bong ?

If you reduce from 18mm to 14mm you will add drag. The Q's glass elbow fits into a downstem that has a female GonG joint on top. On my bong there is a female joint formed onto the tube, into that fits the downstem with a male joint plus it has a female joint on top into which a slide goes, or your Q's elbow. Like this:

http://aqualabtechnologies.com/scie...zob-glass-18-inch-og-straight-blue-green.html

Here's a closer look at that type of downstem:

http://aqualabtechnologies.com/glas...zob-glass-18-18-mm-diffused-downstem-4-0.html

There are similar pieces where the downstem is permanently fixed to the tube as a single piece, with a female joint at top for the slide (or, again, the Q's elbow).
 
oldiebutgoodie,

Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
If you reduce from 18mm to 14mm you will add drag. The Q's glass elbow fits into a downstem that has a female GonG joint on top. On my bong there is a female joint formed onto the tube, into that fits the downstem with a male joint plus it has a female joint on top into which a slide goes, or your Q's elbow. Like this:

http://aqualabtechnologies.com/scie...zob-glass-18-inch-og-straight-blue-green.html

Here's a closer look at that type of downstem:

http://aqualabtechnologies.com/glas...zob-glass-18-18-mm-diffused-downstem-4-0.html

There are similar pieces where the downstem is permanently fixed to the tube as a single piece, with a female joint at top for the slide (or, again, the Q's elbow).

Oldie my problem is that I need a adapter as my bong is not glass on glass. I took some measurements and I'd need a downstem that is 5" and 12mm to fit but I cannot find it online , I'd also have to use a rubber grommet to hold the downstem in. I can't find what I need online though.




EDIT: Ok problem solved , thank you to one of the previous posters who said that I wouldn't need anything. 1st impressions , started with a bag and the pre made 1 was leaking from the start. Vapor was not so dense and I like it dense. Not a great experience , took very long to fill up & I couldn't get what I wanted. I like the cano so much better in that department so far but ill try and get more practice in. Then I tried the Wip and it worked great. Thick vapor tasted nice and put in the bong and it ripped , I even tried fan speed 3 and it started bubbling.
631D9BB8-81A5-4DD2-B7AF-298DFF22281A_zps3bobo1kx.jpg
 
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Justpassedu,
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Detonator

Well-Known Member
putting a screen in the elbow and packing it will give the
Oldie my problem is that I need a adapter as my bong is not glass on glass. I took some measurements and I'd need a downstem that is 5" and 12mm to fit but I cannot find it online , I'd also have to use a rubber grommet to hold the downstem in. I can't find what I need online though.




EDIT: Ok problem solved , thank you to one of the previous posters who said that I wouldn't need anything. 1st impressions , started with a bag and the pre made 1 was leaking from the start. Vapor was not so dense and I like it dense. Not a great experience , took very long to fill up & I couldn't get what I wanted. I like the cano so much better in that department so far but ill try and get more practice in. Then I tried the Wip and it worked great. Thick vapor tasted nice and put in the bong and it ripped , I even tried fan speed 3 and it started bubbling.
631D9BB8-81A5-4DD2-B7AF-298DFF22281A_zps3bobo1kx.jpg


I used my EQ like this for a long time with an old bong... For even thicker vapor put a screen in the elbow and pack the elbow........
 
Detonator,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Oldie my problem is that I need a adapter as my bong is not glass on glass. I took some measurements and I'd need a downstem that is 5" and 12mm to fit but I cannot find it online , I'd also have to use a rubber grommet to hold the downstem in. I can't find what I need online though.




EDIT: Ok problem solved , thank you to one of the previous posters who said that I wouldn't need anything. 1st impressions , started with a bag and the pre made 1 was leaking from the start. Vapor was not so dense and I like it dense. Not a great experience , took very long to fill up & I couldn't get what I wanted. I like the cano so much better in that department so far but ill try and get more practice in. Then I tried the Wip and it worked great. Thick vapor tasted nice and put in the bong and it ripped , I even tried fan speed 3 and it started bubbling.
631D9BB8-81A5-4DD2-B7AF-298DFF22281A_zps3bobo1kx.jpg

Sorry, I thought you were trying to figure how to make a GonG connection. I see now. Fwiw, when I made a similar bong using the Q tubing as the downstem, I put holes near the end like conventional downstems have, to provide diffusion.

Re the bag, while you may not get what your 'cano delivers, you can get dense vapor. Try filling the Cyclone about 2/3 up to the black wrap. Turn the heat up high - say, 210C - and use Fan 1. ~Every minute stop the fan, stir the Cyclone, clear the elbow screen if needed, restart Fan 1. Sometimes the higher fan speeds just blow through the herb and there isn't enough circulation for good extraction. The elbow screen creates back-pressure into the Cyclone, so on Fan 1 with sufficient heat sometimes the circulation/extraction is better.
 
oldiebutgoodie,
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jasong

Well-Known Member
Ok I am thinking about buying a desk top and I really enjoy my solo so I was thinking about the extreme Q. I there anything I need to know about this vape without reading this whole tread? Is there a newer version and how can I tell if I got a new one or an old one?
 
jasong,

Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
oldiebutgoodie i think the bong connection at the moment is perfect , i dont think i would need to defuse as the tubing when inserted into the bong doesnt touch the water. It works pretty well. I just need to get the bag trick down , i actually started to put the spare bag together last night bc the original that comes prebuilt was leeking but i gave up when i had to get the 2nd rubber ring around the bag and small bubble on the mouthpiece , what a b**** that is to do. Ill get it though haha , bought a camel back hydration valve as a stopper and mouth piece and it works perfect at keeping vapor in the bag.
 
Justpassedu,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
oldiebutgoodie i think the bong connection at the moment is perfect , i dont think i would need to defuse as the tubing when inserted into the bong doesnt touch the water. It works pretty well. I just need to get the bag trick down , i actually started to put the spare bag together last night bc the original that comes prebuilt was leeking but i gave up when i had to get the 2nd rubber ring around the bag and small bubble on the mouthpiece , what a b**** that is to do. Ill get it though haha , bought a camel back hydration valve as a stopper and mouth piece and it works perfect at keeping vapor in the bag.

Just curious, and excuse me for being dense . . . but if the end of the tubing isn't submerged in the water, then what is the water for?

About the bag, yea that second o-ring is a royal PITA. Try using a twist-tie instead, works fine.
 
oldiebutgoodie,

Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
Just curious, and excuse me for being dense . . . but if the end of the tubing isn't submerged in the water, then what is the water for?

About the bag, yea that second o-ring is a royal PITA. Try using a twist-tie instead, works fine.

the downstem from the bong is in the water and the vapor goes from the tube of q down the downstem into the water and is diffused/filtered . Correct me if im wrong ? I think i am going to try a small zip tie 1st before a twist-tie and just cut off when the bag is dirty. I wish i could some how convert a cano easy valve to work but i dont have one to tinker with.
 
Justpassedu,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
the downstem from the bong is in the water and the vapor goes from the tube of q down the downstem into the water and is diffused/filtered . Correct me if im wrong ? I think i am going to try a small zip tie 1st before a twist-tie and just cut off when the bag is dirty. I wish i could some how convert a cano easy valve to work but i dont have one to tinker with.

Gotcha. When you wrote before that the "tubing does not touch the water", that threw me. I didn't realize that you're simply feeding the tubing down through a downstem that is permanently affixed to the bong. :doh: So anyway, just fwiw . . . if the downstem has a blunt end rather that slits/holes, you will get much less filtration because there is no real diffusion, i.e., larger bubbles have less contact with the water molecules. Diffusion not only makes for the better smaller bubbles but if the perc action is good, the vapor gets agitated in the water improving the filtration even more.

A zip-tie works fine too as long as it can cinch tight.
 
oldiebutgoodie,

Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
Gotcha. When you wrote before that the "tubing does not touch the water", that threw me. I didn't realize that you're simply feeding the tubing down through a downstem that is permanently affixed to the bong. :doh: So anyway, just fwiw . . . if the downstem has a blunt end rather that slits/holes, you will get much less filtration because there is no real diffusion, i.e., larger bubbles have less contact with the water molecules. Diffusion not only makes for the better smaller bubbles but if the perc action is good, the vapor gets agitated in the water improving the filtration even more.

A zip-tie works fine too as long as it can cinch tight.

thanks oldie , maybe if i get a bubbler ill grab 1 with the slit holes at the end , right now my downstem has no slits in it but i did like the effect. I pretty much started at a temp of 200 and worked my way up to 230 , id like to try a bit of a higher temp this weekend as i would like a thicker vapor. Maybe that was my problem with the bags , i dont think my temp was high enough bc i pretty much used the same method. As you can see in pic above i am not using the cyclone but i am using the ddave wich brings the herbs closer to the heat. I have yet to even try the cyclone. I just really wanna get the bag down pat so i can relax and watch a movie on the couch with it. Bags are what really drew me to this vape after not having my cano anymore but man does it take long to fill 1 up in comparison on the q.
 
Justpassedu,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
thanks oldie , maybe if i get a bubbler ill grab 1 with the slit holes at the end , right now my downstem has no slits in it but i did like the effect. I pretty much started at a temp of 200 and worked my way up to 230 , id like to try a bit of a higher temp this weekend as i would like a thicker vapor. Maybe that was my problem with the bags , i dont think my temp was high enough bc i pretty much used the same method. As you can see in pic above i am not using the cyclone but i am using the ddave wich brings the herbs closer to the heat. I have yet to even try the cyclone. I just really wanna get the bag down pat so i can relax and watch a movie on the couch with it. Bags are what really drew me to this vape after not having my cano anymore but man does it take long to fill 1 up in comparison on the q.

I haven't used the DDave adapter with the bag, IMO it's about improving direct draw. But I'm quite sure that the Cyclone properly used can give you bags of thick vapor. The quality of herb, grind, and load are all factors along with technique. It takes a bit of experimenting and practice to find what works best for your prefs. I don't recall every having to go as high as 230C; I always stayed between 190-210C. And, no, sorry, but the Q doesn't have the air power like the 'cano - you'll have to wait those extra few minutes. :ugh: (That, or get a Herbalaire. :science:)
 
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Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
What's the highest temp the q can reach ? After having problems with my 1st prebuilt bag leaking , I decided to build the 2nd instead if using the rubber I rings I grabbed a bag of zip ties at the dollar store and used those and it's working great , no leaking at all , also anybody looking for a nice valve for the mouthpiece grab the camel back hydration valve it has a small shut off switch to stop vapor from coming out.
 
Justpassedu,

Amblacalma

Member
Hi, I'm thinking to buy a Extreme Q but reading a little seems it haves many "updates", this is correct? For example with Solo (M108, M1A1, M1D"...)
Or the update is for an older version of Arizer Extreme and now it's called Arizer Extreme Q.

Reading the arizer webpage "Redesigned and reengineered with focus on even higher quality, improved performance and longevity."

thanks
 
Amblacalma,

Skeena

Standing stone faced like a statue.
What's the highest temp the q can reach ? After having problems with my 1st prebuilt bag leaking , I decided to build the 2nd instead if using the rubber I rings I grabbed a bag of zip ties at the dollar store and used those and it's working great , no leaking at all , also anybody looking for a nice valve for the mouthpiece grab the camel back hydration valve it has a small shut off switch to stop vapor from coming out.

Mine goes to 260c
 
Skeena,

Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
Hi, I'm thinking to buy a Extreme Q but reading a little seems it haves many "updates", this is correct? For example with Solo (M108, M1A1, M1D"...)
Or the update is for an older version of Arizer Extreme and now it's called Arizer Extreme Q.

Reading the arizer webpage "Redesigned and reengineered with focus on even higher quality, improved performance and longevity."

thanks
Solo & q are different machines , solo has no fan or bag system . The new q's are black and if you are buying usually sellers will state they are the newest version , they come with remote ,have a fan , can do bags and wip , when you increase temp on them it will do it increments of 1 degree and they are black with a bit of shine to them .
 
Justpassedu,

Amblacalma

Member
Solo & q are different machines , solo has no fan or bag system . The new q's are black and if you are buying usually sellers will state they are the newest version , they come with remote ,have a fan , can do bags and wip , when you increase temp on them it will do it increments of 1 degree and they are black with a bit of shine to them .

hi justpassedu, thanks for the answer.
When you say the black model I started to find some photo and find this
arizer%2Bextreme%2Bq%2Bvaporizer%2Bnew%2B2012%2Bversion.jpg


I know Solo and Q are different vaporizers, I'm using the Solo only as example for its numeration of updates but with this image I think I have no doubt on the method to differentiate :)
thanks!
 
Amblacalma,

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Hi, I'm thinking to buy a Extreme Q but reading a little seems it haves many "updates", this is correct? For example with Solo (M108, M1A1, M1D"...)
Or the update is for an older version of Arizer Extreme and now it's called Arizer Extreme Q.

Reading the arizer webpage "Redesigned and reengineered with focus on even higher quality, improved performance and longevity."

thanks

Yes, this is a bit confusing. First there was the Extreme (I think it is still avail for sale?). Then the Extreme-Q, ~several years ago. After various minor tweaks, there was a major update later which resellers dubbed "4.0" - I've never seen Arizer actually use that designation, I think sellers want to distinguish it and give it more marketing oomph than just "new & improved". Then last year there was another update by Arizer, identifiable by the black shell and described per the quote you found; once again though, there was no official designation for that revision. In short, what's sold now is an updated and improved "4.0".

AFAIK Arizer has never published all the improvements supposedly made to substantiate the webpage claim. IIRC the fan was changed, the remote changed to 1 second increments, the shell is black, and that's about all the user experiences. IMO saying that the unit has been "redesigned and reengineered" is quite a stretch.
 
oldiebutgoodie,

YetAnotherUsername

Youngster vaporist
About the bag. 230C and elbow pack works perfect for me. The key is to pack it just right, not too tight nor loose.

I got the Vape Exhale bowl Seek recomended. The ELB bowl fits perfectly into the elbow. It needs a bit higher temps though (240C in my case). I don't think it's better then cyclone/elbow pack alone. It might make more sense when directly over the heater. ELB bowl gets sticky really quickly and is a pain to fill. Nice for kif . I'm yet to experiment more in the upcoming weeks.

I still have not heard from my local glass company, I might have to call them since they stoped answering my emailes two weeks ago :D.
 
YetAnotherUsername,
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