Discontinued The Sublimator

notmyrealUSERname

Notmy Well-Known Member
Perfect I been wanting to get the rest the the Sub Culture thoughts about this

yes it does, and I might get a sub buddy some day to collect it, but I dunno if it is worth it...

I got a reclaim catcher on my oil rig and I never smoke the reclaim it just collects then I put it in a jar... it looks like this - clear red oil -

20130620_202510_zps8135bf0b.jpg

20130620_204958_zps6653dc03.jpg




OK I dab it once in a while but I think it has alot of CBD's and just puts me to sleep not really what a Sativa fanatic like me wants...

I saw some sublimate oil at my Dads house and I dont think the reclaim oil from herb in the sublimator is much different than the reclaim oil I got from reclaim wax dabs, but I would really like to know what others think about this........

thanks..


Your exactly right! I think that sublimate is equivalent to reclaim from a nail setup. I always used a quartz nail so that I could use a razor blade to scrape the nail itself before the reclaim dropped into the catcher. It's impossible to scrape a ti nail in the same way. Quartz ftw!

The sublimate will collect much much faster if you only do dabs. A little faster if you mix in a bit of kief, but you'll have to clean the screens all the time, and the slowest rate for just plain old vaporizables.

Since the sublimate has so many cbd's in it - it's great for a nightcap but not so much during the day. I tried mixing kief and sublimate together to make a paste. Dabbing that stuff off the adapt nail was epic.
 
notmyrealUSERname,
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Liberty

Well-Known Member
Your exactly right! I think that sublimate is equivalent to reclaim from a nail setup. I always used a quartz nail so that I could use a razor blade to scrape the nail itself before the reclaim dropped into the catcher. It's impossible to scrape a ti nail in the same way. Quartz ftw!

The sublimate will collect much much faster if you only do dabs. A little faster if you mix in a bit of kief, but you'll have to clean the screens all the time, and the slowest rate for just plain old vaporizables.

Since the sublimate has so many cbd's in it - it's great for a nightcap but not so much during the day. I tried mixing kief and sublimate together to make a paste. Dabbing that stuff off the adapt nail was epic.

Your exactly right; Sublimate is best in the evening.
 

notmyrealUSERname

Notmy Well-Known Member
PV just updated their site below on the status of the new Sublimator stuff, should be coming this month now. This should include all the goodies we've been waiting for (except maybe the mystical moon tool, lol).

https://www.planetvape.ca/new-sublimator-medical-edition-kits.html


I posted a pic of the moon tool a while ago - on my phone now otherwise I'd post a link.

And is changing the date on a blank page really an update, seems like more of nothing to me.
 

Angus Thermopyle

miner of truth & delusion
More 'claim catcher fun.

YAiC2FI.jpg

Glassblower named Mastah Rolla made this for Enrico recently.
Seems to be taking orders on FB - not sure on pricing.
Stopper and jar are reversed to how I would use them. Would anyone use it like this?
 

Tommii

Subdivision Founder / Sublimator Ambassador
More 'claim catcher fun.

YAiC2FI.jpg

Glassblower named Mastah Rolla made this for Enrico recently.
Seems to be taking orders on FB - not sure on pricing.
Stopper and jar are reversed to how I would use them. Would anyone use it like this?

nU3S8rZ.jpg
 
Tommii,

duval

Dreadlocked Nuggetry
Hey Subculture,

This is my first post here on FC and I'd like to start out by saying that the sublimator is very unique, yet simple unit that will blow your mind every single time. I have the limited edition apollo kit with a timer, which i don't mind. In order to heat up my unit faster i turn the dial up all the way when i first plug in the apollo. Then after 5 minutes I lower the heat dial the marked setting on my dial which i've done a lot of experimenting to get to the right temp. I have a kill a watt meter on the way in the mail so that I can get it more exact but for not it is pumpin out nice lightly brown avb that I greatly look forward to cooking with. I look forward to the upcoming additions to the sublimator line with the titanium and glass aspects. Although I am a daily 7g+ smoker regularly, i have cut that to under 3g's. Sometimes under 2g's. That is saying a lot and made me money back for the high priced unit within the first month. There should be a new attachment for the limited edition kit to collect the sublimate below the atomizer as well as the add-on tiers that have carbs. I would never ever dream of owning a plastic piece and i'm even less fond of the whip feature. However, the way this device was designed just work so well in the LE kit that i don't mind the plastic construction, dry rip or the whip. All of these contribute to one of the smoothest, biggest explosions of vapor ever imaginable!!!!

I have the long tube and the short travel tube but I've had trouble getting the tube separated from the base launcher and also the top removed from the plastic. After a few days use it is sticky and stuck. I used some iso but not recommended on plastic pieces.

Anybody know how to easily remove the tube for transport?
 
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duval,

Monsoon

Well-Known Member
Hey Subculture,
I have the long tube and the short travel tube but I've had trouble getting the tube separated from the base launcher and also the top removed from the plastic. After a few days use it is sticky and stuck. I used some iso but not recommended on plastic pieces.

Anybody know how to easily remove the tube for transport?

Try putting coconut oil or something similar on the threads before screwing it in.
 
my Apollo and atomizer are pretty oxidized , tried scraping a bit with a ss brush it didn't do much , I won't use any solvents to clean it and doing a full temp burn would just cake it on worse ? I don't think it's effecting flavor much , one of the intake holes is clogged though I think (tried a wee bit of hash there oops )

Would love it to be squeaky clean again but Without comprimising it's integrity
 
derrickmayer,

Monsoon

Well-Known Member
my Apollo and atomizer are pretty oxidized , tried scraping a bit with a ss brush it didn't do much , I won't use any solvents to clean it and doing a full temp burn would just cake it on worse ? I don't think it's effecting flavor much , one of the intake holes is clogged though I think (tried a wee bit of hash there oops )

Would love it to be squeaky clean again but Without comprimising it's integrity
It may take some effort (and potentially void your warranty) but if you can loosen the bottom part of the heater head it should screw off and the whole chunk of metal can be removed and cleaned if needed.
 
It may take some effort (and potentially void your warranty) but if you can loosen the bottom part of the heater head it should screw off and the whole chunk of metal can be removed and cleaned if needed.
Id prefer not to temper , and keep my warranty :)
 
derrickmayer,

duval

Dreadlocked Nuggetry
Try putting coconut oil or something similar on the threads before screwing it in.
Thanks!! I got a reply from PV yesterday with the same answer and it's working wonders.

Id prefer not to temper , and keep my warranty :)
Just turn the dial up to the hottest temp for 25 minutes and it'll clean the Apollo. Then set the dial to your marked temp. and wait 5 minutes to let it cool down to your sweet spot. It'll taste like brand new and no need to void your warranty.
By the way, unscrewing the head of the Apollo will void your warranty so it's best you just heat it up and to unclog the holes, while it's hot just take a few pulls and it'll pull the clogged sublimate through. The clogged concentrate boles have been solved by the heating up method.
 
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duval,
I ended up using a ss brush to softly scrape away oxides / residue

Make Shure you use ss as other steels will scratch and your unit will potentially rust and oxidize easier


used an iPhone sim tray poker to unclog the vortex hole:)
 
derrickmayer,

PlanetHaze

Don't Vaporize The Planet !, Vaporize Yourself
Retailer
It may take some effort (and potentially void your warranty) but if you can loosen the bottom part of the heater head it should screw off and the whole chunk of metal can be removed and cleaned if needed.
By the way, unscrewing the head of the Apollo will void your warranty so it's best you just heat it up and to unclog the holes, while it's hot just take a few pulls and it'll pull the clogged sublimate through. The clogged concentrate boles have been solved by the heating up method.
Please don't loosen the bottom part of the heater head or try to unscrew it. The unscrewing action can potentially damage the element inside rendering your Apollo inoperable.

Only clean, plant material free concentrates should be used through the craters. This usually means Sublimate, C02 and solvent extractions only. Any water based extractions or extracts with plant material still present should only be put in the bowl on the screen. If unsure do a quick foil test, put a tiny amount on some tin foil and heat from underneath to vaporize the extract. If there is any mark left on the foil, that is plant material.

Happy and Healthy New Year
Congrats to Colorado
PV
 

Paul 8888

Well-Known Member
I have had the "special edition" kit sub for about 6 months. I have often wondered why the whip was so small (3/16" diameter inside). Everyone loves their adapt a bong; with an opening the same as the top of their bong it is like having a whip with a diameter of up to 2 inches. So I replaced my 3/16 whip with an old one I had laying around that is 3/8" ID. This is over 4 times the area of the cross section of the 3/16 ID. The results are overwhelming I can not express how much better it is to use for big rips etc. I will never use a small ID whip again.

 
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duval

Dreadlocked Nuggetry
I have had the "special edition" kit sub for about 6 months. I have often wondered why the whip was so small (3/16" diameter ). Everyone loves their adapt a bong; with an opening the same as the top of their bong it is like having a whip with a diameter of up to 2 inches. So I replaced my 3/16 whip with an old one I had ling around that is 3/8 inch. This is over 4 times the area of the cross section of the 3/16. The results are overwhelming I can not express how much better it is to use big rips etc.


I replaced my original hose with medical grade silicone tubing from amazon. I got the 1/4" ID, .375" OD and it fits the original mouthpiece perfect. Increases airflow and can be cut to any length for easier social use. Plus u don't have to worry about burning a hole in the tube because it is super thick and can withstand temperatures up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.
 
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duval,

grokit

well-worn member
I replaced my original hose with medical grade silicone tubing from amazon. I got the 1/2" ID, 3/32" OD and it fits the original mouthpiece perfect. Increases airflow and can be cut to any length for easier social use. Plus u don't have to worry about burning a hole in the tube because it is super thick and can withstand temperatures up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.

1/2" ID, 3/32" OD?
Not possible, as 1/2 = 16/32.
 
grokit,

mestizo

Well-Known Member
1/2" ID, 3/32" OD?
Not possible, as 1/2 = 16/32.
Even the other way around doesn't seem possible. 3/32 is only .094, which left us with .406 to divide by two (for wall thickness). Why would you want such a thick wall (.203)?
I bought the 3/8 ID, 1/5 OD. maybe that's what he got.

Edit. he beat me to it.
 
mestizo,

grokit

well-worn member
I'm sorry. I meant to say 1/4" ID, .375" OD. Here is the link:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TJ9YQK/ref=biss_dp_sa1

Great, it's easier to understand 1/4 (2/8)" id, 3/8" od though :)

Just thinking that 1/4" seems too big for the le mouthpieces?

.25" is exactly the od of the metal tubing,
so it seems like something smaller may be needed for the hose to stay on.

I think on that list I might try the 0.188" x 0.313" size.
I believe it's the same size as standard aquarium tubing, which on amazon is just called,
"standard 3/16" diameter tubing". 3/16 = .188.
 
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grokit,
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