Discontinued Thermovape Cera

Roth

Pining for the Mountains
I think it's rare indeed to leave zero, but it's hard to quantify past that since the sample size guys use and their judgment varies so much. IMO the 'flows freely' is a very important part of the foil test. It gives a clue to how well the hot oil can move about in the core so it can get to the surface to deposit the residue rather than leave in buried in the pores where it might stay forever. It's definitely a judgement call, hard to do with little experience. At best the test is a guide.

When I was Beta testing cores I found they could foul real fast with bad concentrates, in some cases in less than a gram. I also have run (clean) CO2 oils thought cores to the tune of a dozen or more grams with no real change in performance. Don't even think about bubble or 'full melts'. If it doesn't pass the foil test, don't put it in, it's very hard to get out again once baked on.

Bottom line is the EO core is not really magic, much as it might seem so sometimes. If you put 'junk' in with the oil it's still there until you take it out again. Too much of it will stop the show. There are limits.....and you can come up on them mighty fast sometimes.

Good luck, I bet a cleaning makes it much better. Hopefully boil outs and ISO soaks will do it, if not, time for a 20/20/20 burn run or two? If it's so baked on you can't wash/boil it out, time to try burning it (all that's left really short of a rebuild?).

OF


Sounds good. I guess I was just under the wrong impression that with clean concentrates, one could run an ounce plus through the EO core without a dip in production. And thanks to your advice, I've already relegated my bubble/full melts to being sandwiched in between some green in the LL core...in which they perform beautifully.

If I simply need to do a clean every 5-10 grams, I can deal with that. That's one of the features that I absolutely love about the Cera, the ability to break it down and boil/soak the essential parts.

Just curious how long the majority of people go before cleaning their cores. I guess it will take a little experimenting to see at what point I regularly clean my core. The only reason I'd even hesitate to clean regularly is loosing the "priming" concentrate in the cleaning.

But oh well, you gotta pay to play...and I love playing with the EO core!
 

420time

Well-Known Member
Roth, i had the same problem as you and i sent it back to Thermovape for repairs after a month of using my newly cera. they said everything tested fine and i should just dry clean it more times since my heater took like 15 seconds to get vapor in my EO. they told me dry clean it 8-10 times and let it cool a few minutes after you done that.USPS says it should be delivered today but it didnt come with my mail.....

Well it came 5 minutes after the mailman left.
 
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Roth

Pining for the Mountains
Roth, i had the same problem as you and i sent it back to Thermovape for repairs after a month of using my newly cera. they said everything tested fine and i should just dry clean it more times since my heater took like 15 seconds to get vapor in my EO. they told me dry clean it 8-10 times and let it cool a few minutes after you done that.USPS says it should be delivered today but it didnt come with my mail.....

By "dry clean", do you mean a 20/20/20? And just to make sure I'm understanding everything correctly, a 20/20/20 simply means, turn on for 20 seconds, let cool for 20 seconds, repeat 20 times?

Do most people incorporate a 20/20/20 into their normal maintenance routine in order to lengthen the time in between boil/soaks? Just trying to get a grasp on what would be the ideal maintenance for the EO core.

Obviously one advantage of a 20/20/20 over a boil/soak is not losing what's still in the core. But are there any draw backs to doing to many 20/20/20's? Could you "bake" the impurities into the ceramic wafers if you over do it?

Sorry for so many questions, I just like to have a full understanding of my toys :)

But I do think this is good news, hopefully my EO just needs some TLC and she'll be back in fighting shape in no time. Which means I'll be able to take the Cera home and show it off to the family :)





Edit: When I get off work tonight, I think I might try a 20/20/20 unless someone tells me that might not be the best idea. I'm still in a hotel for the next few nights, so a boil/soak is out of the question. But if a 20/20/20 could get me running again I might just do that tonight.
 
Roth,

420time

Well-Known Member
well thermovape told me 8-10 times, which worked pretty well for me. if yo want to do it 20 times im sure itll work like new or somewhat. impurties will get into the ceramic wafers sooner or later, so even if it dosent work as well after the dry clean then just sennd it to thermovape for a repair. repair is free for the first year.
 
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420time

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I wouldn't do the 20/20 until after a good boil/iso wash.
what you may say be true but alot of people dislike iso wash and good boil since a boil leaves it kind of stains the wafers leaving permanent residue on it. and iso wash because it kinda just steeps the core not doing much.
 
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tedthehed

Member
"Most Li-ions are charged to 4.20V/cell and every reduction of 0.10V/cell is said to double cycle life. For example, a lithium-ion cell charged to 4.20V/cell typically delivers 300–500 cycles. If charged to only 4.10V/cell, the life can be prolonged to 600–1,000 cycles; 4.00V/cell should deliver 1,200–2,000 and 3.90V/cell 2,400–4,000 cycles. Table 4 summarizes these results. The values are estimate and depend on the type of li-ion-ion battery." (emphasis mine)

* you are completely ignoring the amount the battery is being discharged, just as important, if not more so, to cycle life..if you charge it to 3.7 and never use it, will it last forever? Besides when they say "300-500" cycles theyre talking about discharge to 2.5 or 2.6, way below where amy one goes with the Cera.. its silly..

Pretty clear to me, 1,200-2,000 cycles (from 4.0 charges) is four times the 300-500 from 4.2 charges. This insight is not confined here, I've also cited (and shown reference for) the military practice of limiting charge voltage to vastly extend battery life.

Yeah so? But you are cutting down drastically on the duration of the battery in the Cera! Youre done at 3.4 so at 4. volts charge, you have .6 volts to vaporize with, each .10 volt is over 15% of your operaring time ...! Yeah if you dont use the battery as much itll last longer. duh.


tedthehed said: ↑
If your batteries are dying prematurely I suggest you take your dmm's and put the pins in series with your charging battery when its
at the end of its charge cycle , and make sure it isnt going above 4.2 volts...it shouldnt be getting more than slightly warm either.
This also is not correct IMO. Current readings are taken in series, not parallel. Voltage readings are always taken in parallel with the source. The Voltage reading your suggest should always equal zero. That is when the end of charge is reached the battery voltage exactly matches the charger set voltage (the whole basis of Constant Voltage charge routines.



**Im not going to get involved with this one. Obviously the idea is to get the voltage while under charge, I think people understand that.
Your explanation is more of a confusation..while under charge a series reading will give you a forward voltage, as it is called, taken by placing probes , in series, between the positive end of the battery and the positive charge terminal of the charger...you should get a reading of at least a volt, or two, while under charge.
I really dont understand what you mean by parallel with the source , unless you mean to say "touch each end of the battery"???

Not to mention that the owner really has no way to make this series measurement (calls for opening the unit, disconnecting the battery and either dis assembly of the connector or other modifications of the hardware in addition to meter skills past most casual owners).

**no, it doesnt. see forward voltage, above. try to not get hysterical about this.

Nor is there a need for most, the 'battery level meter' tells all that needs to be know for those who care.


**yes youre right except for the fact Im discussing a possibly malfunctioning charge unit , so the voltage reading may be off in the first place. The reason for my suggestion.

BTW I just made a measurement of the voltage in an empty 18650 battery bay of my intellicharger 4 ( a series measurement, btw) and got 5.25 - 5.30 volts,
I guessing thats normal, and yours should be around that voltage also.

as for cleaning the Cera cart, can you guys get a hold of 99% isopropyl alcohol?
the difference between 99% and the regular 70% is like night and day!!!

if you never used 99% go get some now, I get it at the local Voms supermarket, $1.75 for 16 ozs.

I just dont see any thing sticking after a soak and shake in that stuff! especially an overnight soak!

tell me it this doesnt work! try find a medicine bottle that the cart will slide in, add the alcohol, and shake it about in there,

slosh the alcohol around good. itll clean it.
 
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nickzzzx

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Well my Cera EO has been great since I had it from preorder, but lately it doesn't soak concentrate anymore. I've done iso soak/boil and 20/20/20 burn and it's very clean and still powering up, but it lost it's porous quality from use over time. I contacted TV to see if they can replace my ceramics... in the mean time, I have a new revolution w/ dart loader on the way :D
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't do the 20/20 until after a good boil/iso wash.

Agreed. Never burn on something you could have washed away. I recommend boiling first (for those not reclaiming of course) since it seems to get the largest volume of junk out in the first pass.

Well my Cera EO has been great since I had it from preorder, but lately it doesn't soak concentrate anymore. I've done iso soak/boil and 20/20/20 burn and it's very clean and still powering up, but it lost it's porous quality from use over time. I contacted TV to see if they can replace my ceramics... in the mean time, I have a new revolution w/ dart loader on the way :D

Bummer. Sometimes that happens. I messed one up really bad early on. Ended up with a flooded mess that I couldn't get to draw no matter what. Not sure how I did it, looking back, Tim had to heat the whole thing up with a torch to get it open, but open it he did and set it straight again.

Have no fear, they made it, they can remake it again. Good show you've got a fall back.

Regards and Merry Christmas to all.

OF
 

Smokeyjojackson

New Member
Sorry, I was offline. Of answered in post 6300!

I got my Cera in the mail today and am looking for a little info from someone that has experience with this unit.

I put in a freshly charged 2000mah 18650 I had sitting around from my ecig mod and while the unit heats up (to the point the condom is needed) I get absolutely no vapor out of it.

What is the standard warm up time before you should be able to get vapor? The website says 10 seconds.

I noticed the first load I tried actually looked brown (as it does out of my Arizer Extreme Q)and maybe even a little black on the bottom when I finally gave up trying to produce a cloud with it. I got a couple of very wispy hits but nothing worth even mentioning really.

I have experience with vapes. I have owned an Extreme Q for a couple of years now as well as an Omicron. The plant material is well ground and dried/cured.

What am I missing here? I thought I might as well ask the community while I wait for monday to contact the company.

This is a gift for my significant other and I really want to be able to give it to her and show her how to operate it.

The unit did not come with any type of instructions.

Thanks for any replies!
 
Smokeyjojackson,

Herbalist23

Well-Known Member
I got my Cera in the mail today and am looking for a little info from someone that has experience with this unit.

I put in a freshly charged 2000mah 18650 I had sitting around from my ecig mod and while the unit heats up (to the point the condom is needed) I get absolutely no vapor out of it.

What is the standard warm up time before you should be able to get vapor? The website says 10 seconds.

I noticed the first load I tried actually looked brown (as it does out of my Arizer Extreme Q)and maybe even a little black on the bottom when I finally gave up trying to produce a cloud with it. I got a couple of very wispy hits but nothing worth even mentioning really.

I have experience with vapes. I have owned an Extreme Q for a couple of years now as well as an Omicron. The plant material is well ground and dried/cured.

What am I missing here? I thought I might as well ask the community while I wait for monday to contact the company.

This is a gift for my significant other and I really want to be able to give it to her and show her how to operate it.

The unit did not come with any type of instructions.

Thanks for any replies!

Welcome to the fun Smokeyjojackson!

I assume you have the LL cart? Did you already tried the 3 steps, if not here is the link to vaporpedia, where
you will find them!

If you follow these 3 steps I'm sure you will get better results:o

Hope that will help!

Herbalist23
 
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OF

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I put in a freshly charged 2000mah 18650 I had sitting around from my ecig mod and while the unit heats up (to the point the condom is needed) I get absolutely no vapor out of it.

I noticed the first load I tried actually looked brown (as it does out of my Arizer Extreme Q)and maybe even a little black on the bottom when I finally gave up trying to produce a cloud with it. I got a couple of very wispy hits but nothing worth even mentioning really.

Welcome to the Forum, sorry you're having troubles.

I too agree, it sounds like you're not following the 3 steps......with predictable (poor) results. I'd start there.

It's worth noting that what you say above can't all be true. If you put herb with THC in there (green) and it came out without the THC (brown), the THC had to have come out as vapor. "I get absolutely no vapor out of it" can't be accurate. It's not hiding inside. What we have is a delivery rate problem (no 'big clouds'), not a complete failure to extract? We need to improve the rate or put more, better grade, bud in if you want denser output.

And let's not assume that the battery is up to the duty. Very very few are. What brand and model battery are you using? Better results might be that simple.

OF
 

Smokeyjojackson

New Member
Welcome to the Forum, sorry you're having troubles.

I too agree, it sounds like you're not following the 3 steps......with predictable (poor) results. I'd start there.

It's worth noting that what you say above can't all be true. If you put herb with THC in there (green) and it came out without the THC (brown), the THC had to have come out as vapor. "I get absolutely no vapor out of it" can't be accurate. It's not hiding inside. What we have is a delivery rate problem (no 'big clouds'), not a complete failure to extract? We need to improve the rate or put more, better grade, bud in if you want denser output.

And let's not assume that the battery is up to the duty. Very very few are. What brand and model battery are you using? Better results might be that simple.

OF


Thank you both for the prompt responses!

I have come to this site for some time now and used much of the collective advice to inform my purchases over the years. I thought it was about time to sign up and ask a couple questions from those in the know.

I agree that I got flavor out of it so something was happening. It was most likely as you put it a delivery rate issue.

The flowers have plenty of THC and produce very good vapor through my desktop unit (Arizer Extreme Q).

The batteries I have right this minute are just some off brand I think.

They are branded "EH" and are a 3.7v IMR 18650 2000mAh.

I use them for my Vamo and thought they might be able to get us through a weekend out of town but I might have been wrong.

So we have narrowed it down to my generic batteries or the delivery rate.

Inhalation speed is mentioned in the 3 steps, but what inhalation speed is best for nice visible clouds?
Can you suggest how I might obtain more visible vapor out of the unit?

I would also happily take suggestions for top notch batteries and charger (as well as where to get them for the best price) so as not to fry them with the cheap unit I got with my Omicron.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Thank you both for the prompt responses!

The batteries I have right this minute are just some off brand I think.

They are branded "EH" and are a 3.7v IMR 18650 2000mAh.

So we have narrowed it down to my generic batteries or the delivery rate.

Inhalation speed is mentioned in the 3 steps, but what inhalation speed is best for nice visible clouds?
Can you suggest how I might obtain more visible vapor out of the unit?

I would also happily take suggestions for top notch batteries and charger (as well as where to get them for the best price) so as not to fry them with the cheap unit I got with my Omicron.

You're welcome, glad to help if I can......and I'm sure I speak for the Brother here too.

Actually I think we may be looking at both slow rate and poor battery, with the battery causing low heat and therefore low production. Fixing the battery is key I think, and may well clear the production issue up (at least some) alone. The battery (and charger) TV sells is (logically) the best they could find for the job. Hard to go wrong that way except perhaps by price. Unfortunatley my past source of the batteries just dried up, perhaps others can point to a source? AW Brand IMRs (look for the logo) along with Pannasonic NCR18659PD and CGR18650CH are good choices, but be sure you get them from solid vendors, there are fakes out it seems. Likewise, while other fine chargers exist, the Tenergy 01260-01 was selected by TV after careful testing for sound reasons. Perhaps others can suggest alternatives/sources?

I suggest you first get a handle on the basic unit. Clouds will follow, but are not a good goal IMO. The goal should be control of the extraction, then you can get what you want. This means sticking to the steps, not going for clouds. If you cut off step 2 early just because you're getting some vapor and want more you've just screwed yourself. Stick to the steps. It really is the best (if not only) way to learn.

Be sure you're saturating the heater well (I seriously doubt you are now) before you even start step 2 (any draw). In step 2 concentrate on long, fairly slow, draws (maybe 15 seconds to the lung full?). Work on transferring the heat, not making vapor. Ignore the vapor until you get that solid test puff, not just some vapor, LOTS in a small puff. Don't cheat here. As soon as you get that test puff, immediately expel any (minor) vapor you may have. Blow it all out. All. Then, and only then, take a hit before it cools off. Done right all the air you can draw through the still hot enough core will make vapor for you then, and only then. Honk on it to your heart's content in step 3 once you're there. Don't cheat the steps.

Once you can control things, and can get solidly into step 3 at will, then you can work at maximum output. Fine grind, well cured bud and tight pack will get you the best results. But don't cheat and go there looking for a quick way to more vapor, that won't work near as well. Learn the 3 steps. Once you gain skills you can modify the technique some, but 3 steps is the way to get there.

Regards and Merry Christmas to all.

OF
 

Smokeyjojackson

New Member
You're welcome, glad to help if I can......and I'm sure I speak for the Brother here too.

Actually I think we may be looking at both slow rate and poor battery, with the battery causing low heat and therefore low production. Fixing the battery is key I think, and may well clear the production issue up (at least some) alone. The battery (and charger) TV sells is (logically) the best they could find for the job. Hard to go wrong that way except perhaps by price. Unfortunatley my past source of the batteries just dried up, perhaps others can point to a source? AW Brand IMRs (look for the logo) along with Pannasonic NCR18659PD and CGR18650CH are good choices, but be sure you get them from solid vendors, there are fakes out it seems. Likewise, while other fine chargers exist, the Tenergy 01260-01 was selected by TV after careful testing for sound reasons. Perhaps others can suggest alternatives/sources?

I suggest you first get a handle on the basic unit. Clouds will follow, but are not a good goal IMO. The goal should be control of the extraction, then you can get what you want. This means sticking to the steps, not going for clouds. If you cut off step 2 early just because you're getting some vapor and want more you've just screwed yourself. Stick to the steps. It really is the best (if not only) way to learn.

Be sure you're saturating the heater well (I seriously doubt you are now) before you even start step 2 (any draw). In step 2 concentrate on long, fairly slow, draws (maybe 15 seconds to the lung full?). Work on transferring the heat, not making vapor. Ignore the vapor until you get that solid test puff, not just some vapor, LOTS in a small puff. Don't cheat here. As soon as you get that test puff, immediately expel any (minor) vapor you may have. Blow it all out. All. Then, and only then, take a hit before it cools off. Done right all the air you can draw through the still hot enough core will make vapor for you then, and only then. Honk on it to your heart's content in step 3 once you're there. Don't cheat the steps.

Once you can control things, and can get solidly into step 3 at will, then you can work at maximum output. Fine grind, well cured bud and tight pack will get you the best results. But don't cheat and go there looking for a quick way to more vapor, that won't work near as well. Learn the 3 steps. Once you gain skills you can modify the technique some, but 3 steps is the way to get there.

Regards and Merry Christmas to all.

OF

I gave the unit to my gf early to see if we could get it working.

She got a couple of visible puffs after following the steps of letting it heat up 20-30 seconds then drawing slowly. I took it and gave it a try and got the burnt popcorn hit (3 visible hits).

We changed out the bowl (looked burnt on bottom) and went through the steps again (30-sec warmup and slow draws).


With the second load we go through the same steps. Warm it up, draw slowly, zero visible vapor or flavor. The unit is so hot you can barely put it to your mouth even with the condom on it. I must have missed the section that described it getting so freaking hot that it can't be used effectively. Upon taking the load out the bottom has that dark brown almost burnt look to it yet we cannot produce any viable hits.

We let the unit cool a bit as its too hot to use easily.

Load a 3rd bowl.

Go through warm up process. Get no viable hits. The girlfriend is looking at me like wtf? She doesn't understand why it wont give her hits either. We are following the steps to the best of our abilities and the unit is just not working as advertised.

I am not beyond admitting I just don't get it. Maybe this unit is just too complicated for me to understand. I do however feel that for this price it shouldn't be this difficult to get it working.

At this point she doesn't even want it anymore. She said the same thing. For that price it shouldn't be this difficult to use

I have vaporized for years starting with a hot box (currently puffing off my Arizer Extreme Q, and looking at my Omicron HVD on the table) and expected a unit that costs what this does to work pretty easily and effectively.

I expect to see and or taste something off the unit after warming it up, drawing slowly, wash rinse repeat. It is just not producing like one would expect after coming from other vaporizers

Neither one of us can get the unit to do anything at this point. Its hot as hell so I have a hard time believing its not warmed up enough to produce something.

I am starting to feel like I should have gotten a solo.

Happy to hear any other suggestions or from anyone else that might have had issues at first and then figured it out.
 
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Smokeyjojackson

New Member
Did you try a different type of battery?

Not yet. I am not sure where to pick up anything better locally (Wa state) and ordering a decent battery cuts out the ridiculous 3 day return policy which is technically already void because we have attempted to use it...
I am about to order some panasonic batteries as suggested earlier but those won't show up for a week or so. We currently have the battery on the charger again for a fresh full charge to try and rule it out. IF we can get something off a fresh charge again I will happily blame these shitty batteries.

I want this bad boy to work. I want to be a believer!
 
Smokeyjojackson,

OF

Well-Known Member
I gave the unit to my gf early to see if we could get it working.

She got a couple of visible puffs after following the steps of letting it heat up 20-30 seconds then drawing slowly. I took it and gave it a try and got the burnt popcorn hit (3 visible hits).

Congratulations on some results. I'm sorry your results aren't more to your liking. IMO, you can do this the hard way from here, follow those results, repeat the good ones and experiment.

Or you can actually break down and try the 3 steps. That's the easy way, proven effective by LOTS of guys (and women too, of course). It doesn't sound like you're there, you're trying to use 'the simple' method expecting advanced results. Your call, but IMO it's the hard way to go. 3 steps isn't all that hard, guys with lots less going for them than you have made it work.

Once more, my advice is do the steps. Don't cheat, follow the plan. Don't tell me about the hits you took before you got a solid test puff because you weren't supposed to take any.......

It starts with step 1, getting the core saturated in a reasonable time. Not 'XX seconds', solidly up to full blast. A few seconds with a good battery and fresh charge, out to 20 or so seconds when it needs charging typically. But you need the core to full temperature at step 1 before you start pulling heat out to warm the load for step 2. Try to draw heat too soon, before it's built up enough and you'll run out before the hit is done. Don't cheat. Forget the clouds. Run the steps.

Your call.

OF
 
OF,

healthylungs

New Member
Hey guys,

So after long consideration and research, I've decided that I want to pull the trigger on the Cera EO. However, I want to buy the batteries and the charger separately from a different source. I was looking at the Panasonic NCR18650PD 2900mah 3.7V battery.

Does anyone know where I can buy them online or at a store in SoCal for cheap? The ones at FastTech have been sold out for quite a while now. And if anyone knows of a place where I can buy the Cera in person, that information would be extremely helpful as well.
 
healthylungs,

Smokeyjojackson

New Member
Congratulations on some results. I'm sorry your results aren't more to your liking. IMO, you can do this the hard way from here, follow those results, repeat the good ones and experiment.

Or you can actually break down and try the 3 steps. That's the easy way, proven effective by LOTS of guys (and women too, of course). It doesn't sound like you're there, you're trying to use 'the simple' method expecting advanced results. Your call, but IMO it's the hard way to go. 3 steps isn't all that hard, guys with lots less going for them than you have made it work.

Once more, my advice is do the steps. Don't cheat, follow the plan. Don't tell me about the hits you took before you got a solid test puff because you weren't supposed to take any.......

It starts with step 1, getting the core saturated in a reasonable time. Not 'XX seconds', solidly up to full blast. A few seconds with a good battery and fresh charge, out to 20 or so seconds when it needs charging typically. But you need the core to full temperature at step 1 before you start pulling heat out to warm the load for step 2. Try to draw heat too soon, before it's built up enough and you'll run out before the hit is done. Don't cheat. Forget the clouds. Run the steps.

Your call.

OF
ont

No need to break down and try anything.
Maybe I'm not explaining it well but I'm doing exactly what you are describing..
I'll chalk it up to user error but if I may I'm pretty sure we're just warming this thing up and sucking said warm air through it like many other vapes. I'm sure this thing is the bees knees.
Maybe I'll break down and read the 3 steps again while following them. Again.

As I understand it

Step 1. Warm it up 20-30 seconds according to steps.
Step 2. Draw slowly looking for and vapor (test puffs then hitting accordingly once the correct temp/vapor return is reached.
3. Hit and enjoy

Is that about right?

mod note: Edited to fix broken quote tags.
 
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