Discontinued The Liquidizer Herb2Vapor System - Safety Butane Extractor & Mini-vaporizer

2clicker

Observer
not sure why nobody has mentioned the persei in this thread. im sure it works great. i preferred the TV stuff personally, but that has been replaced recently with bholt attys.

but this thread is about liquidizer and its products. they are fantastic offerings.
 
2clicker,
indeed I tried a bho not decarbed, with o nic watermelon ejuice and a bit of food grade glycerin heated on a coffee warmer mixed until I put it into a ce4 clearomizer; separated don't work now I got wasted honey oil stuck on top of cart? fkn gentalmens vape video sais to heat up tincture bottle and shake no bueno stocked I found this page. wish they sold flav with the electic juice mix. Im working on educating myself on making natural organic flavors maybe from eo because its diluted but some eo r dangerous and very concentrated bad kat claimed to use only non eo flavs
ps just thinking herc cart that is a real infinite wick self cleanin
 
abstract XstracT,

walrus

Well-Known Member
Seen a few people now talking about wanting to add flavoring to their mix. I don't think it's something I'd be into, I really enjoy the flavor of my mix. I guess it could be useful if your starting concentrate has a less desirable taste or is made from abv or whatever. Anyway, if I wanted to flavor my juice I'd look in to the flavorings people who do DIY ecig liquid use. There are whole forums dedicated to it and lots of info out there. There are a few main vendors they use (Lorann's, The Flavor Apprentice are a couple off the top of my head). They are concentrated so that you would only need to use a very tiny amount to flavor a batch. As opposed to 0nic juice that would dilute your batch too much.
 
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Liquidizer

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
Hello everyone! The holiday season has been busy but thank you all again for your participation and we hope to find the time soon to update the forum on our plans for the coming months. We do read everyone post and to let you know we follow with great attention the discussions of atomizers as we learn a great deal from your experiences that we hope to apply toward future products and improving our offerings.

On the topic of flavorings and creating "natural organic flavors" we just have to weigh in as it is a topic near and dear to us. One of our goals is to expand the awareness of all ecig users that there exists a remarkable universe of possibilities beyond what comes ready made in a bottle. We don't mean to detract from flavoring vendors in the slightest, certainly some "fruity" flavors are only possible through synthetic means and we're glad for all users who find something they truly enjoy.

To illustrate what we mean, consider mint flavor, something seemingly common and unexciting. The two varieties most familiar to the public would be spearmint and peppermint, popularized through chewing gum. If you Google heirloom mint seeds you'll find that for a few dollars you can buy Cherokee Sweet Mint (distinct yet suave), Virginia Mountain Mint (wild and spicy), Korean Licorice Mint (strong anise notes), Vietnamese Lemon Mint (sharp citric edge) just to name a few, each with a distinct flavor, aroma and history of cultivation. And mint takes virtually no effort to grow, sprinkle the seeds by the side of house and it will return year after year in greater numbers (and you're assured you are inhaling an organic product free of pesticides). Better still you can make extract either from the leaves themselves or from the delicate flowers that bloom when in season. You can further choose to extract fresh off the steam or to dry and cure the leaves and/or flowers first.

Typically making essential oils requires pounds of plant matter, big cauldrons and a distillation still and hours of work. With the Liquidizer it takes just a few grams and 15 minutes times and your herbal matter is extracted at sub-freezing temperature by the butane for perfect preservation of aroma and flavor. Further you can winterize with our kit to remove waxes and create an absolute that will rival what any fragrance lab is capable of.

So don't forget how easy and accessible it is to create extraordinary flavors and Ejuice no one else has even yet attempted, and that for every "common" herb there exists dozens of rare and diverse strains unlike anything you've experienced or thought possible.

And that's before taking the next steps of mixing and pairing different herbs for Ejuices that are even greater than the sum of it's components.

Vaping and Ejuice are still in its infancy but what's remarkable is that this offers a truly democratic platform for home users to become artisans in their own right in exploring and creating eliquids and extracts of extreme beauty. We hope the Liquidizer serves you well in your journey, don't doubt that the finest Ejuice you'll ever taste will be the one that you make yourself. Thanks again.
 
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Skored

Well-Known Member
I've recently used the EJ Mix with great results. I love going in public with confidence that I can enjoy without offending others, or them even knowing what I'm doing. I'm using the new Kanger e-smart top-coil for stealth, and it's great for that.

The only thing I'm curious about is that my "flavor" is not as complex or flavorful as some of you mention here. First thing is that with the EJ Mix, I definitely taste the mix. It's not bad , but it's different from straight concentrate. I'm using a 50/50 mix. If I reduce the mix to let's say 25/75 - would it even work in carts? Seems like it would be too thick.

But my concentrate is also not as flavorful as I would expect or hope for. I'm toasting on 200 for 20 minutes or until just brittle. I'm then doing an Ethanol extraction (not in a good place to do BHO). I'm freezing and filtering several times. The oil I'm producing is golden when thin, and black when balled up. The consistency is very pliable at room temperature, almost like putty. It melts super quick, seems to be very clean and the effect is amazing. So where did the flavor go? Was it from the toasting, maybe something in my extraction process, or is that when waxes are completely removed flavor will diminish? I love it from a stealth perspective - zero smell. But now wondering what to do different if I want full flavor for use at the house.

Thoughts - suggestions?
 
Skored,

Liquidizer

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
I've recently used the EJ Mix with great results. I love going in public with confidence that I can enjoy without offending others, or them even knowing what I'm doing. I'm using the new Kanger e-smart top-coil for stealth, and it's great for that.

Thank you for your purchase, we're always glad to hear the EJmix is doing it's job well.

The only thing I'm curious about is that my "flavor" is not as complex or flavorful as some of you mention here. First thing is that with the EJ Mix, I definitely taste the mix. It's not bad , but it's different from straight concentrate. I'm using a 50/50 mix. If I reduce the mix to let's say 25/75 - would it even work in carts? Seems like it would be too thick.

You can certainly try reducing the amount of EJmix needed, we recommend everyone start concentrated and gradually dilute. Try a few drops on your wick, if it's two thick add a bit more EJmix and try again until it works well. Once diluted however, you can't return to concentrated state unless you add more wax/oil. Winterizing and reducing the wax content is our principal recommendation for reducing the amount of EJmix needed for smooth flowing liquid, as well as producing the ultra-high purity extract that only a perfectly non-polar solvent such as butane allows for.

But my concentrate is also not as flavorful as I would expect or hope for. I'm toasting on 200 for 20 minutes or until just brittle. I'm then doing an Ethanol extraction (not in a good place to do BHO). I'm freezing and filtering several times. The oil I'm producing is golden when thin, and black when balled up. The consistency is very pliable at room temperature, almost like putty. It melts super quick, seems to be very clean and the effect is amazing. So where did the flavor go? Was it from the toasting, maybe something in my extraction process, or is that when waxes are completely removed flavor will diminish? I love it from a stealth perspective - zero smell. But now wondering what to do different if I want full flavor for use at the house.

We praise your efforts highly for toasting, both your toasting time and temperature is correct, although 20 min is a bit on the "green" end of the spectrum and you may benefit from toasting for 25 to 30 min.

The cause of your muted flavors is due to the drawbacks of ethanol extraction and result from the below combination of factors:

1) The first issue is that ethanol, although an excellent organic solvent, doesn't hold a candle to butane when the chemistry of extraction is concerned. With ethanol/iso there is always a trade off - if you do a quick wash you will achieve a reasonable degree of purity but you will leave behind quite a bit of oil that will be lost. If you wash for too long you pick up excessive impurities. With ethanol it is inevitable that some polar impurities will be dissolved as well which will muddy the flavor profile.

2) An ethanol extraction however would still capture those toasted flavors, but you hit a brick wall when the time comes to evaporate such a large amount of ethanol. The principle cause of your loss of flavor are the natural enemies of any herbal extract - heat and oxidation.

The Liquidizer setup is deliberately designed for a speedy extraction and since only 3ml - 5ml of ethanol is used, evaporating it away only takes 15 minutes so that the loss of flavor/aroma is minimized as much as possible.

Once you use a large amount of ethanol, unless you have laboratory equipment you are in lose/lose situation. If you apply heat to speed up the evaporation, the extended heating time is like placing food in a crock pot - although the temperature is low after several hours it will soften and denature into mush. If you avoid heat and just use a fan and open air to evaporate, imagine an apple slice or banana exposed to air, or the way an avocado (rich in oil) or guacamole turns brown quickly. Oxygen is unforgiving and the very same large surface area of the evaporation tray that allows for fast evaporation, also exposes most of your oil to air as well for a corrupting effect. Even if you use the hardware store style of vacuum pump that folks are fond of for butane, using such a pump for a large amount of liquid ethanol will inevitably result in the ethanol recondensating inside the pump hoses and motors, dissolving the motors oils, weakening seals and pretty much ruining your motor quickly.

3) Winterized extracts are delicate and need greater protection from the elements. Waxes serve an important function in plants, they provide structure and are key in retaining moisture and odors the air would otherwise quickly corrupt. In other words waxes are nature's fixative. By removing the waxes in a sense, you remove the last of the substances that's protecting your flavor and odors from oxidation. This is why our winterization guide uses very little ethanol, and further once it is evaporated away the winterized juice is stored in a syringe to protect it from the air as much as possible. If you are handling the extract by hand, certainly further degradation is occurring. Also in our experience, a fully winterized high-purity extract is a flowing liquid syrup at any temperature just above freezing and can't be handled with your hands.​


The good news is that as you mentioned, your oil is still effective. The spectrum of organic molecules in extracts from lightest to heaviest is aromas, flavors, essential oils, plant fats and waxes. Those essential oils are hardy, which is why as we've mentioned, you can toast for 45 minutes, have something completely odorless and flavorless and still be very very impressed with the effect. This is why heavily processed and refined extracts such as "pure gold" or "liquid gold" have to add in limonene at the end to produce any aroma/flavor at all.

Making boutique quality extract is a challenge, it requires the right solvents, good technique, and quick work to avoid the decay heat and air causes and the solution we've put forth so far is the Liquidizer, not just the extractor, but the complete system and instructions that work as a whole. So we commend your efforts as a great start, the fact that you are in pursuit of greater flavor is an excellent sign as well. There are many people who don't care and wonder why someone would bother for "flavor", but that's like asking why pay a premium for single malt scotch when there's discount vodka available. Fine extracts have a character and balance that elevates and completes the herbal experience in our opinion, and particularly with so many distinct herbal strains and combinations of extracts possible, each with their own therapeutic profile, we simply strive to bring our users the ability to customize their extracts exactly as they best prefer them. Thank you again for using our products, we hope we have the opportunity to serve you further in the future.
 
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walrus

Well-Known Member
Recently made probably my best batch of eliquid yet so I wanted to chime in and reiterate what a great product the EJmix is.

Mixed about 1.5g of some nice amber winterized shatter with a little over 1ml of EJmix. The result is a fairly thick, but golden and translucent eliquid that vapes beautifully and packs quite a punch. I feel that winterizing is a pretty important step in producing a liquid that vapes clean and doesnt gunk up your coils as quickly. Winterizing definitely cuts down the flavor of the shatter and thus the liquid as well but it also cuts the smell a bit and improves the stealth aspect. A couple hits of this mix and I'm all set and its stealthy enough to use almost anywhere. Have used it commuting on the train, walking around the city, at a crowded bar, at concerts, in a movie theater, in a restaurant bathroom, and in a grocery store without drawing so much as a sideways glance.

Being able to medicate this quickly, effectively and discreetly really is a game changer. I have seen threads and known people who have tried to achieve these results with vg, pg, etc and a variety of techniques, always with less than desirable results. EJmix is fast and easy to use and I've had great results every time.

I'm still mainly using the gotvapes sapphire carts to vape the ejuice with mixed results. Some carts last a while and perform well while others have died quickly or were doa. Ive pretty much given up on using protanks as ive lost too much product to leaking no matter what i do to try to prevent it. I'm always interested in what devices others are using and how well they are performing so if you have something that works particularly well please post.
 

Skored

Well-Known Member
That is the most exceptional explanation I could ever expect! You guys rock. Maybe I'll have to consider using butane...
 
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Skored,

darkrom

Great Scott!
It's been too cold out to run this thing, my hot water baths are really ice baths :( I miss this. I really still love my liquidizer, just hate the freezing weather right now.
 
darkrom,

Trever

Well-Known Member
It's been too cold out to run this thing, my hot water baths are really ice baths :( I miss this. I really still love my liquidizer, just hate the freezing weather right now.

Sounds like its time to pull out the ol hot plate / griddle ;). I love blasting in the wintertime specially when its only 10 degrees outside i dont even have to winterize at those temps
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Sounds like its time to pull out the ol hot plate / griddle ;). I love blasting in the wintertime specially when its only 10 degrees outside i dont even have to winterize at those temps

I'd rethink that part, sparks you know........

Remember, cold weather is exactly the sort Butane and Propane fumes are famous for 'collecting' under. Oil fields are known to 'flash' in cold, calm air conditions. Wind and spark free are your friends. Bringing boiling water to the rig is the usual call for that reason I think?

OF
 

Trever

Well-Known Member
I'd rethink that part, sparks you know........

Remember, cold weather is exactly the sort Butane and Propane fumes are famous for 'collecting' under. Oil fields are known to 'flash' in cold, calm air conditions. Wind and spark free are your friends. Bringing boiling water to the rig is the usual call for that reason I think?

OF

Agree completly thats why extra safety is needed. I have a copper ground bar that i ground to everytime. Also its in a hot water bath at only 110, never had a problem in the years ive been doing it. That being said sure problems could still arise but such low temps and grounding out for the short period im around it "set it and forget it" dangers id say are very very low.
 
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darkrom

Great Scott!
Well I set it in my back yard and run away like a lunatic the second I start discharging the butane lol.

Worst case I blow up my liquidizer :( ! and waste a bunch of bud. I'm far enough away from everything that I won't hurt myself, but more importantly I won't hurt anyone/anything else either.

Its just a pain in the ass in the MA winters.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Agree completly thats why extra safety is needed.

Cool. Your call. As long as you're aware of the risks, you're a big boy and in the line of fire not me.

FWIW the spark danger is 'never' a ground problem quality wise. In fact, in 'explosion proof' hoods grounds are intentionally removed to lessen the chance of a spark before the GFIs take it out. The AC lines have no Neutral lead connection, they come from "isolation transformers".

The real danger is connecting stuff and turning stuff on and off (that's when sparks happen). Also on that list are things like the fore mentioned hot plates and griddles which typically have exposed contacts (under the covers of course, but not sealed) carrying full current that control the heat. And their switches. Stuff some guys tend to not think about.

Nothing that can't be handled safely, but IMO it does take careful consideration. Busting out the extension cord and the hotplate to heat your brew is likely to get you into the local papers.

Best wishes and Merry Christmas to all.

OF
 

Trever

Well-Known Member
Cool. Your call. As long as you're aware of the risks, you're a big boy and in the line of fire not me.

FWIW the spark danger is 'never' a ground problem quality wise. In fact, in 'explosion proof' hoods grounds are intentionally removed to lessen the chance of a spark before the GFIs take it out. The AC lines have no Neutral lead connection, they come from "isolation transformers".

The real danger is connecting stuff and turning stuff on and off (that's when sparks happen). Also on that list are things like the fore mentioned hot plates and griddles which typically have exposed contacts (under the covers of course, but not sealed) carrying full current that control the heat. And their switches. Stuff some guys tend to not think about.

Nothing that can't be handled safely, but IMO it does take careful consideration. Busting out the extension cord and the hotplate to heat your brew is likely to get you into the local papers.

Best wishes and Merry Christmas to all.

OF

This is not always true ive been an commercial electrician for about 10 years with my journeymans and have worked on many oil refineries and class 4 buildings requiring all explosion prove boxes/conduit, motors and everything even within a flour plant "worst type of building for explosions" Have ground rods at each machine. But i am using a scientific grade hot plate that is fully sealed and pretty much spot on with temp control. So being in the local paper i believe is next to impossible especially since im no where near it while its purging out the tane. Thoughtfull words for those who are not aware of apparent dangers though imo. Grounding out to prevent static discharge is the only real danger im facing blasting outdoors in the winter.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
But i am using a scientific grade hot plate that is fully sealed and pretty much spot on with temp control.

Cool. Like I said, as long as folks know the rules I'm good. I'm glad you've considered the factors and think you've got it under control.

I'd just hate to have some innocent jump on the idea without understanding the risks, wouldn't you? Like using common hotplates or griddles and not being careful about turning stuff on and off and plugging cords and and such. Explosive fumes and electricity don't always mix well.

Thanks.

OF
 

JoeKickass

Well-Known Member
I'm going to have to try this! It would be fun to imitate my ecig friends :D

Do you guys like 3.3 or 3.7v batteries better with the Sapphire carts?
 
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JoeKickass,

Trever

Well-Known Member
can you show us what hot plate you are using? i am interested in getting a lab grade plate.
Yeah ill do some research into it. Its actually a hand me down from a friend of myn that works at Weber state university here in Ut. Never really did any looking into it looks well built and has spot on temp control.
 

Snoman

New Member
Can I add any amount of pg or vg to the juice after a ratio of 1:1 or even 2:1 ejmix:oil is achieved? It still needs to be thinner to wick correctly in my pro tank 2.
 
Snoman,

OF

Well-Known Member
can you show us what hot plate you are using? i am interested in getting a lab grade plate.
Yeah ill do some research into it. Its actually a hand me down from a friend of myn that works at Weber state university here in Ut. Never really did any looking into it looks well built and has spot on temp control.

Again, the critical feature for us here is sealed contacts. It takes serious effort to keep explosive gas out of the area that sees sparks. Like using an open flame lamp in a mine. The seal doesn't have to be absolute, fine enough metal mesh will work, but it has to be correctly done. The units I'm familiar with had 'explosion proof' labels with a Mining Code reference IIRC?

A place I worked at had an 'old school' type that routinely boiled contaminated parts in Heptane. He'd get a pot of boiling gasoline (basically) going in an explosion proof hood like you and I make coffee. Fun guy, mighty casual. The other common scheme is to use a contactless heater blanket with a 'variac' or other variable voltage supply outside the hood (safe area) and run 'open loop' (adjust power for desired results, no thermostat).

http://www.labcraftsmen.com/page1.htm
http://www.google.com/imgres?start=...page=8&tbnh=175&tbnw=255&ndsp=31&tx=116&ty=80

Good luck with it guys, stay safe.....

OF
 

2clicker

Observer
Again, the critical feature for us here is sealed contacts. It takes serious effort to keep explosive gas out of the area that sees sparks. Like using an open flame lamp in a mine. The seal doesn't have to be absolute, fine enough metal mesh will work, but it has to be correctly done. The units I'm familiar with had 'explosion proof' labels with a Mining Code reference IIRC?

A place I worked at had an 'old school' type that routinely boiled contaminated parts in Heptane. He'd get a pot of boiling gasoline (basically) going in an explosion proof hood like you and I make coffee. Fun guy, mighty casual. The other common scheme is to use a contactless heater blanket with a 'variac' or other variable voltage supply outside the hood (safe area) and run 'open loop' (adjust power for desired results, no thermostat).

http://www.labcraftsmen.com/page1.htm
http://www.google.com/imgres?start=...page=8&tbnh=175&tbnw=255&ndsp=31&tx=116&ty=80

Good luck with it guys, stay safe.....

OF

thanks OF! good stuff. i know the key is the sealed contacts/contactless system. i assumed that most of the lab rated plates would have this standard because lab hot plates are often used for solvent evaporation, but i havent dug that deep into it yet. thanks for the links.

i am currently only evaping Ethanol and its in pretty small amounts. i usually run a 7g of material at a time max. so the amount of Ethanol is pretty small. i am using a $20 plate available for cooking, but i have a fan blowing over it all moving a lot of air. it is blowing directly out of a window, of which is on a wall with no electric outside. my guess is about 6 or 7 shots of EC evaping at a time. pretty small amount. i cant see that amount of Ethanol building up being much of an issue. however i would love to get my process tidied up a bit. the idea of the lab plate appeals to me. i have been toying with the idea of building a sealed "evap chamber" with a fan mounted on one end and the other end seals to a window somehow. this chamber would have a heat conductive floor where a hot plate or heater of some sort heats the floor from below and outside of the chamber. low heat.

or maybe i should just stop using heat all together...? safer and cheaper

Yeah ill do some research into it. Its actually a hand me down from a friend of myn that works at Weber state university here in Ut. Never really did any looking into it looks well built and has spot on temp control.

thanks!

Anyone run a abv run yet?

i have and the ejmix works the same as a fresh run with it. that is if your ABV still has some goodies left. im a low temp vaper mostly so my ABV is rich in actives. i usually soak ABV longer than a normal fresh run. i realize taste and purity are sacrificed to start with an ABV run so i dont worry about pulling too much out of the ABV. if its got extra stuff so be it. i usually only use this ABV oil/ejmix in the evenings and at home. i have a dedicated ProTank 2 that i use for this mix. the coils seem to keep working pretty well even though the oil has extras in it. you could clean it up more if you wanted, but i dont mind since its only ABV oil. good for late night puffing.

regarding using ProTanks and my AnyVape Divide (same coils)... i have found a solution for leakage. at least it works for me. basically i always remove the PT2/Divide after each use and store the glassomizer upside down when not in use. also, i have been careful with how tightly i screw the glassomizer onto the mod/battery. as soon as it makes contact i give it about a 1/4 turn after that. the just make sure its not wobbly on there and its good to go. i feel some leakage could occur from screwing the unit onto the mod/battery to tightly. i feel like the pin on the mod/battery pushes the bottom of the coil too much. possibly compromising the silicone seal in the glassomizer. so with those tricks as well as burping them daily i havent had a leak in over a week and a half. both the PT2 and Divide mini have full tanks. so far so good! i really love this Divide mini. looking to get a grey tank for it.
 
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GR

Well-Known Member
Safety is safety. If you don't know if what you are doing is safe then stop and find out.

Butane is funny, as a gas it is heavier then air so sinks to the lowest point and this can be a problem. Alcohols are usually going to go higher but let to much build up and air and eye brows are gone if a spark comes. I think a big mistake is to think the vapor is gone when folks are done, know your chemicals and their behavior and live a long prosperous life. Sorry biut this shit is not child's play and fucking up is a bad thing with bad consequences, use the web for your chemicals you are using and fucking understand them so not to be a high light on the local news.

Sorry I am not going to post things like this is safe or this works because if you fuck up I don't know the quantity you are working with so simple ass answers can kill fucking people.

2clicker I know you said running only 6-7 oz of alcohol, under certain circumstances that is still a good fireball. Pour six ounces in a Pyrex in a safe outside place and add flame, sure it won't explode but it is a good flame and will burn for awhile.

We are dealing with the Internet and therefore need to post to for the ones that will blow shit up and or burn their parents house down.

Many probably don't realize that even their finest refined butane has propane in it unless they are getting commercial butane and if they are they can get it they already know about the butane. Cans have butane so lighters will ignite at low temperatures and when using a closed extraction system you have to bleed the propane out safely. Just another chemical you should know the behavior of.
 
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2clicker

Observer
2clicker I know you said running only 6-7 oz of alcohol, under certain circumstances that is still a good fireball. Pour six ounces in a Pyrex in a safe outside place and add flame, sure it won't explode but it is a good flame and will burn for awhile.

We are dealing with the Internet and therefore need to post to for the ones that will blow shit up and or burn their parents house down.

nice reply. and thanks. great point about posting for future readers. i am not trying to suggest to anyone else how to process their runs. i wanted to post my process for criticism. i am now rethinking my process. what do you think of an evaporation chamber? something sealed, fan forced, filtered, and exhausted outside (if used indoors). again this is for small amounts of EverClear. i would never evap butane inside or even close to my house.

The cause of your muted flavors is due to the drawbacks of ethanol extraction and result from the below combination of factors:

1) The first issue is that ethanol, although an excellent organic solvent, doesn't hold a candle to butane when the chemistry of extraction is concerned. With ethanol/iso there is always a trade off - if you do a quick wash you will achieve a reasonable degree of purity but you will leave behind quite a bit of oil that will be lost. If you wash for too long you pick up excessive impurities. With ethanol it is inevitable that some polar impurities will be dissolved as well which will muddy the flavor profile.

2) An ethanol extraction however would still capture those toasted flavors, but you hit a brick wall when the time comes to evaporate such a large amount of ethanol. The principle cause of your loss of flavor are the natural enemies of any herbal extract - heat and oxidation.

The Liquidizer setup is deliberately designed for a speedy extraction and since only 3ml - 5ml of ethanol is used, evaporating it away only takes 15 minutes so that the loss of flavor/aroma is minimized as much as possible.

Once you use a large amount of ethanol, unless you have laboratory equipment you are in lose/lose situation. If you apply heat to speed up the evaporation, the extended heating time is like placing food in a crock pot - although the temperature is low after several hours it will soften and denature into mush. If you avoid heat and just use a fan and open air to evaporate, imagine an apple slice or banana exposed to air, or the way an avocado (rich in oil) or guacamole turns brown quickly. Oxygen is unforgiving and the very same large surface area of the evaporation tray that allows for fast evaporation, also exposes most of your oil to air as well for a corrupting effect. Even if you use the hardware store style of vacuum pump that folks are fond of for butane, using such a pump for a large amount of liquid ethanol will inevitably result in the ethanol recondensating inside the pump hoses and motors, dissolving the motors oils, weakening seals and pretty much ruining your motor quickly.​

i was really surprised to hear this. i say this because of what ive learned from the SkunkPharm article on ethanol extraction. they say that their test subjects consistently prefer their ethanol extractions to butane extractions for flavor and potency. that seems to be the opposite of your thoughts on the subject. ive never run butane and am now would like to give it a shot. i was always under the impression that ethanol extractions were the most flavorful.

looks like ive got more research and testing to do :science:
 
2clicker,
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