Arizer Solo

I don't know what he used - it looks great, but Mother's aluminum polish can do that if you get the anodizing off. I use it on my space case stash cases all the time. Makes them look new. I also know that yellow easy off oven cleaner will dissolve anodizing on aluminum. I used to use it to strip the anodizing off RC parts.

Before:


After:

Caligula said:

Im going to beat samir with a pipe wrench if he keeps posting that damn PVHE chillum that I can't buy.

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you CAN buy one just like mine. talk to PV about making one and find a piece you like and mail it to them. Everyone acts like I have is out something of reach, all I did was simply (kindly) ask if they would do some thing for me and there you have it!!! It takes a while and it require some extra money and effort but I can assure you its worth it.

As far as the finish on my solo....I admit I have a bad drinking problem and I woke up to a polished solo. Keep in mind this is the first productive thing I have done while drunk. I have a bad history of being destructive and abusive. Wife says I worked all night and passed out on the floor next to a spinning bench grinder with buffing wheels. I found Industrial degreasers and oven cleaning sprays in my bathroom along with wet sanding paper all over my work area accompanied by a whole array of solid and liquid cutting/rubbing compounds. I dont know what combination of anything got it like this but I know for a fact that Arizer has deeply textured its finish since its still relevant through the mirror finish.

Please start a private conversation with me if you need an o-ring. Send your Name and address. Please don't write on my wall unless you want others to have your name and address!!

@alltoreup Mothers polish was among the line up left next to the buffer

mod note: Two posts merged.

samirfuzzywuzzy said:

you CAN buy one just like mine. talk to PV about making one and find a piece you like and mail it to them. Everyone acts like I have is out something of reach, all I did was simply (kindly) ask if they would do some thing for me and there you have it!!! It takes a while and it require some extra money and effort but I can assure you its worth it.

As far as the finish on my solo....I admit I have a bad drinking problem and I woke up to a polished solo. Keep in mind this is the first productive thing I have done while drunk. I have a bad history of being destructive and abusive. Wife says I worked all night and passed out on the floor next to a spinning bench grinder with buffing wheels. I found Industrial degreasers and oven cleaning sprays in my bathroom along with wet sanding paper all over my work area accompanied by a whole array of solid and liquid cutting/rubbing compounds. I dont know what combination of anything got it like this but I know for a fact that Arizer has deeply textured its finish since its still relevant through the mirror finish.

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This is why we love you!
Your crazy as a fox!

I have some really good vaporizers.
The SOLO I always grab first!
Straight PHVES stem with a CHILLUM tip is very very insanely awesome.
The medication is intoxicating!
You took the lead and had made some nice stems with CHILLUM tips created.
PLANET VAPES know how to make them!

I do a lot with water pipes however dry with the PHVES CHILLUM TIP the SOLO ROCKS HARD!

I wasn't paying attention tonight and started vaporizing on level 5 OMG I got so medicated I had to reload and set my level on 4. (Normally I'm on 3 Dry)

It's the fault of sammyirfuzzy!

samirfuzzywuzzy said:

Please start a private conversation with me if you need an o-ring. Send your Name and address. Please don't write on my wall unless you want others to have your name and address!!

@alltoreup Mothers polish was among the line up left next to the buffer

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The stems you sent me are in both my SOLO's!
Why doesn't ARIZER ship them with the seals?

alltoreup said:

I don't know what he used - it looks great, but Mother's aluminum polish can do that if you get the anodizing off. I use it on my space case stash cases all the time. Makes them look new. I also know that yellow easy off oven cleaner will dissolve anodizing on aluminum. I used to use it to strip the anodizing off RC parts.

Before:

After:

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That's the same grinder I use the most!

ataxian said:

This is why we love you!
Your crazy as a fox!

I have some really good vaporizers.
The SOLO I always grab first!
Straight PHVES stem with a CHILLUM tip is very very insanely awesome.
The medication is intoxicating!
You took the lead and had made some nice stems with CHILLUM tips created.
PLANET VAPES know how to make them!

I do a lot with water pipes however dry with the PHVES CHILLUM TIP the SOLO ROCKS HARD!

I wasn't paying attention tonight and started vaporizing on level 5 OMG I got so medicated I had to reload and set my level on 4. (Normally I'm on 3 Dry)

It's the fault of sammyirfuzzy!


The stems you sent me are in both my SOLO's!
Why doesn't ARIZER ship them with the seals?

That's the same grinder I use the most!

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Hey taxi dont you blame me .....actually that chillium is your fault and the finish is your fault too!!! You inspire much of my craziness!

samirfuzzywuzzy said:

Hey taxi dont you blame me .....actually that chillium is your fault and the finish is your fault too!!! You inspire much of my craziness!

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I have had this one strain since JUNE of this year. (OG)
Actually I had 70 grams of it!
However gave me the worse case of couch lock and munchies.
So GSC, DUTCH TREAT, NORTHERN LIGHTS, CACTUS COOLER were consumed instead!
Well now my inventory is at a all time dangerous low!
Therefore I broke out the OG and it's better than when it was first harvested.

The SOLO PHVES with a CHILLUM TIP is my current driver.
I never get tried or bored with this combination.
Down to my last 17 grams and so happy MONDAY is restocking day.

I hope I can make it?

My solo gong has been constantly in the solo , I LOVE the hydratube on top such a great way to medicate.

After 5 very consistent tests from cold I feel confident posting these stats about my M1C1 heating element power demands:

As the unit heats between heat levels 1 and 5 it draws 2.06A

When it gets to heat level 5 it drops to 1.56A

When it gets to heat level 6 it drops to 1.43A and starts tapering off through heat level 7 til around .80A when it suddenly drops off to 0A and the unit is fully heated

When the heating light pops on in the middle of a session it draws 1.26A

I also tested the wall adapter plug and it reads 4.9A which I don't understand because as @CentiZen posted

CentiZen said:

A C is a measurement of output or input power relative to the capacity of the battery in use. Most batteries are marketed by their total capacity (Amp-Hours), but a C refers to how much power it is putting out (or taking in) at any given time. So to use the Solo's pack as an example, which is 2200mAh @ ~7.4v; 1C of power in this case would mean that one C is 2200milliamperes of current ... ICR batteries (the kind used in both these and most other portable vapes) don't like being used past around 1C.

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which would mean that just plugging the battery in would run it at close to 2.5C but I think my logic must be off. Hopefully @OF and CentiZen will chime in here. I think when we plug the unit in this Amperage coming from the wall must drop ... maybe

From my testing I think the only time the battery is being stressed really hard is if the unit is plugged in and you are heating it up from cold ... once it is heated and the temp stabilizes the heating element only draws about .6C while the HEAT light is on which quickly drops off to 0C.

At first I was thinking that maybe Arizer programmed the new units to cease charging while the unit heats up from cold to the appropriate heat level but it doesn't seem like it does as the CHARGE and HEAT lights flash in unison when the unit is plugged in and heating up. I don't know how to check the programming though so who knows ... maybe this is the case?

I do believe Arizer has thought this design out ... I mean they do have like engineers and stuff that work for them right? Ya'll seem to love your Solos ... you doubting Arizer's mad skills at this point?

you were probably reading the highest possible output of the wall adapter? a device will only take as much amperage as it needs, you can't really force somtehing that wants 1 amp to take 5

exit said:

you were probably reading the highest possible output of the wall adapter? a device will only take as much amperage as it needs, you can't really force somtehing that wants 1 amp to take 5

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Ah makes sense thanks for clearing that up

MileHighLife said:

After 5 very consistent tests from cold I feel confident posting these stats about my M1C1 heating element power demands:

As the unit heats between heat levels 1 and 5 it draws 2.06A.........

I do believe Arizer has thought this design out ... I mean they do have like engineers and stuff that work for them right? Ya'll seem to love your Solos ... you doubting Arizer's mad skills at this point?

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I'm a little confused, this is the actual heater current you're measuring? That is you measure say 2 Amps at the heater representing maybe .8 from the wall and 1.2 from the battery? Makes sense.....I think.....about as expected?

BTW, I bet if you watch closely the first few seconds from cold you'll see more than 2.5 Amps for a bit? Some supplies capable of 2.5 Amps work as PAs, some lock out on overloads unless the heater is still warm (this assumes the heaters are basically the same, which it seems they are?).

Glad you figured the 5 Amps from the charger out, it no doubt was no longer putting out 12 Volts and such an overload might not be good for it, but it was just a test, it never sees such duty in normal service.

I agree, they seem to have excellent Engineers and have thought the other aspects out well, no reason to question this one past 'why now?'. Why, after having made a harder to implement system, that seems to work well, did they later change to this more common scheme (with it's compromises) now? The only answer that makes sense to me is Marketing pressures......not that giving customers what they want is a bad idea on the face.

What about this 'increase in convection', which I think is larger holes in the cup? Do you agree with the others that the new version seems to be running cooler (less vapor and darkening on the same step as the old)? I wonder if the sensor and software here hasn't changed and this cooling is the result of the extra cold air being used for convection? Part of the 'well known' lower efficiency of convection? How is this impacting the draw? You'd think it'd have the same sort of effect the PVHES does?

Thanks.

OF

OF said:

I'm a little confused, this is the actual heater current you're measuring? That is you measure say 2 Amps at the heater representing maybe .8 from the wall and 1.2 from the battery? Makes sense.....I think.....about as expected?

BTW, I bet if you watch closely the first few seconds from cold you'll see more than 2.5 Amps for a bit? Some supplies capable of 2.5 Amps work as PAs, some lock out on overloads unless the heater is still warm (this assumes the heaters are basically the same, which it seems they are?).

Glad you figured the 5 Amps from the charger out, it no doubt was no longer putting out 12 Volts and such an overload might not be good for it, but it was just a test, it never sees such duty in normal service.

I agree, they seem to have excellent Engineers and have thought the other aspects out well, no reason to question this one past 'why now?'. Why, after having made a harder to implement system, that seems to work well, did they later change to this more common scheme (with it's compromises) now? The only answer that makes sense to me is Marketing pressures......not that giving customers what they want is a bad idea on the face.

What about this 'increase in convection', which I think is larger holes in the cup? Do you agree with the others that the new version seems to be running cooler (less vapor and darkening on the same step as the old)? I wonder if the sensor and software here hasn't changed and this cooling is the result of the extra cold air being used for convection? Part of the 'well known' lower efficiency of convection? How is this impacting the draw? You'd think it'd have the same sort of effect the PVHES does?

Thanks.

OF

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This was done unplugged and I tested the unit the way that centizen suggested. When I tried testing the way you suggested I got a reading of around 2.5A when the unit was off but it wouldn't turn on. I tried repositioning the piece of wire in the plastic clip about 10 times to make sure it was making full contact but kept getting
2.5A and the unit wouldn't turn on.

To make sure I was clear on your instructions you wanted me to pull the positive pin out of the solo side of the battery connector and use a piece of wire in the plastic connector and the multimeter to complete the circuit right?

I can't speak for past solos vs. my solo as this is the first ine I have tried. Everyone I know combusts ... I know there's some who have fucked combustion out here but I haven't met em.

What I can say is I'm a high temp vaper and am able to get a dark coffee color roast toward the top of the bowl with a milk chocolate color roast lower section of a bowl when fishing on level 7 which is perfect for me.

When I first got it I was sort of wondering why everyone said the air flow was so restricted cause it doesn't seem that bad to me.

I think it depends on if you're used to drawing by filling your lungs or pulling with your mouth. There is definitely a resistance you feel in your thoat when you pull from the Solo, no?

exit said:

I think it depends on if you're used to drawing by filling your lungs or pulling with your mouth. There is definitely a resistance you feel in your thoat when you pull from the Solo, no?

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True ... I don't pull with my chest/diaphram when I'm using portables dry (except mflb) cause it tears my throat out on the high temps I like. I'm a puffer

See, thats what I do, I pull my with chest. People who hit things like puffers always pick up the solo right away. I personally find that way of inhaling to be awkward but I make it work.

I have an m1c1 and I get a heat up time from cold to level 7 in 1.04 mins. I seem to see that this is normal, but my only issue is smell. When I put my nose very close to the heating chamber after a few minutes on level 7 it's gives of a slight smell of burnt toast. It's not noticeable unless I get my nose very close. Is that normal for these machines? Or does it sound like I need to get a replacement?

I have also burnt it in by doing over 5 full heat cycles on level 7 and it has had quite a bit of use that past few days

Hey all! Thought I'd share some pics and info before football starts Many thanks to those that have inspired me throughout these pages. A month or so ago I replaced my year old Solo battery with one of @CentiZen hi cap batteries. Awesome upgrade! But as many have pointed out, I had some cracks around the screws that popped out the plastic when I took the screws out. Not enough that the screws wouldn't hold, but enough to look bad and also get caught on stuff to make it worse. I'm not sure who posted those epoxy fixes back in the past, but using their idea, I had some locktite blue/ white epoxy that you mash together like playdoh and it hardens. This stuff worked great. Just mash to shape and let it dry. I'm gonna hit it with some black paint and it should look much better.



Here's my Sunday morning sipper



My Solo with the PNWT topped with a size 5.5 food grade stopper drilled with a 5/8 hole for the bent solo stem to fit through. That's sitting in my homemade stand made out of two 2x4s cut square and glued on top of one another with the cracks woodfilled. I cut a hole through one for the solo and a small one through the other for either the charger cord or PA. Works good on the bar because you can just walk up and hit it.

And finally a tip that I haven't seen posted. To clean out my bowl/oven, I never had much luck with ISO so I tried this stuff called Sap Off Soap. SOS. Works fabulously on hands and tools and best of all it's soap like so it doesn't run. It will sit on the bottom of the oven and just dissolves the gunk. Usually instantly. Then a quick ISO wipe to remove any oils and a one round burnoff on 7 and it's like new. http://amzn.com/B00CJJ3NOK

Ready to go:



Enjoy your Sunday everyone! I'm waiting for tomorrow night...WHO DAT!!!

@Buildozer
Hey buddy , here's the Solo stand you gifted me . ( plus more)
Thanx again .


@Pipes
And a big thanx to pipes .
I've had it for 8 days and have been using the car charger daily .
It works like a charm .
pipes was generous enough to send the charger also for free , and I'd Only expressed interest in it . O ya , plus screens, o-rings and a boot ??? idk what that is for , yet .
Now I want the car/PA too .

re ; New pass-thru Solo
I like it , it's a concept that's long overdue .

samirfuzzywuzzy said:

Hey taxi dont you blame me .....actually that chillium is your fault and the finish is your fault too!!! You inspire much of my craziness!

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At least you didn't wake up with any
Unexplainable/mysterious bruises ....

@roosh420
I noticed this too ... I believe it's just bits of herb that have fallen through the holes of the oven into the heating element chamber that make this smell. I get the same smell with my underdog

Gray Area said:

My number five has done that since new. About six months ago.

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Just got a solo this week and I noticed my number 4 light doing this while charging. I looked at the bottom and I got a M1B1 (planet vape) with a copper-ish looking bowl. This thing rips like crazy. I love it.

No Problem @poonman, I'm glad it's with some one who can get use out of it Now.
Right on Pipes!!

poonman said:

@Buildozer
pipes was generous enough to send the charger also for free , and I'd Only expressed interest in it . O ya , plus screens, o-rings and a boot ??? idk what that is for , yet .

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LOL, the boot is a stem holder to give a place to sit it between loading. The lean and boot toe is so it can hold bent stems as well. Just a small stem stand to keep your stem safe.
Your very welcome,
Pipes

PlanetVape said:

Hi Everyone,
Some info on the newest Solos to answer some previously posted recent questions.

Some minor adjustments / improvements were made to the Solo recently:

• Improvements were made to the air flow to optimize convection heating and minimize conduction heating
• New Solo units can be used while charging with the standard charger - no more PA needed
  
• No changes were made to the charger -- old chargers are the same as new chargers

Yes, the new Solos heat up very fast... this is normal. The pass-through mode (running while plugged in to the charger) is a definite plus for new Solo owners and is designed to be used like that without damaging batteries.

Peace and Love,
PV

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I'm confused. .. I just bought a solo and PA kit off you guys last week. It not with charger! Was sent an old model??? I'd prefer the new one!

Also... was the airflow to be less resistant? I pull my stock stem out far enough it wiggles and spins around... Justto get airflow.

If I was sent an old model, can I exchange for a new one? Sounds grea changes!
TY!

Lusi said:

I'm confused. .. I just bought a solo and PA kit off you guys last week. It not with charger! Was sent an old model??? I'd prefer the new one!

Also... was the airflow to be less resistant? I pull my stock stem out far enough it wiggles and spins around... Justto get airflow.

If I was sent an old model, can I exchange for a new one? Sounds grea changes!
TY!

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If it were me I would let it be simply because PV is not likely to help you for this and also because the older models seem to be getting hotter which is great for more extraction.

So based on what we have heard from PV it appears that the M1C1's and M1D1's both allow the PA mode with just the normal charger?

Edit: Read back 2 pages and found the answer, It seems that is the case but we are uncertain how these changes will affect battery life long term.

Here's a glass shop I came across which has lots of glass that seems a good match for the Solo. Even has a 18mm WT that looks like it has a smaller mouth piece. Has your name on it @ataxian.
I was trying to order just the 90 degree 14mm elbow to use with the Gong when using dry. An alternative to the shamrock which they also have. Unfortunately, they only ship to US. Boooooo.
Anyway for you guys that live in the US, check it out here. Reasonable shipping prices too.

LazyIdol said:

So based on what we have heard from PV it appears that the M1C1's and M1D1's both allow the PA mode with just the normal charger?

Edit: Read back 2 pages and found the answer, It seems that is the case but we are uncertain how these changes will affect battery life long term.

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You got it correct in a nut shell. That's my take too.