Ricardooayee
Active Member
I'm thinking if i should pull the trigger on it, because i already have 2 complete Revolution/DART. Would i be happier with the cera?Thats a great price! Why you listing it
Discontinued Thermovape Cera
- Thread starter SameOldTim
- Start date
Rocco
Well-Known Member
If its in good condition, and has a battery + charger thats a steal buddy
IMO Cera is a great improvement in performance comapared to the 1st generation Thermovape products
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
I made this Cera holder. 1st rev. Holds 2 bases, 1 LL cart, 3 EO carts and the moisture tip.
One base unit holder has a peg mounted in the bottom so I can engage the power in the holder. I use it a home on a water pipe and just connect it up via a hose. The makes the use much easier. When not in use I have the little ring to cover the dowel...
One base unit holder has a peg mounted in the bottom so I can engage the power in the holder. I use it a home on a water pipe and just connect it up via a hose. The makes the use much easier. When not in use I have the little ring to cover the dowel...
good craftsmanship rider, People might even consider buying these.
I know I might
Kudos Photorider
Before someone gets in trouble with the rules, if PhotoRider intends to offer these to other members for sale or trade then he has to register with vtac. The rules also forbid asking him to sell them. This applies to forum posts. We don't (actually can't) monitor PMs.
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
Wasn't my intend, but thanks for the heads up. Was just sharing my work for ME
Dad taught Industrial Education in High School, have a full wood shop, built all the cabinets and most of the furniture in da house. Have never sold a thing yet in 35 years, give it away, but selling makes a business out of a hobby. Sure death of the hobby and the $$$ is so minimal why bother
Flattered though!
JoeKickass
Well-Known Member
Ricardooayee
Active Member
Thanks. I ended up pulling the trigger now I have to save up for the EO cart
scottfree
Active Member
At the same time said:
I never got my cera EL working so I was kinda pissed because I bought it to have everything in one device and ended up returning it until they get the new revised cores ready. I agree I would not spend 250$ on the current EL Cera... BUT the Pro-Vari is not is the same class as the CERA or any top of the line mech mod. The first mod I would even consider is the Zenesis 2 which cost 250$ and is made out of Surgical SS, fused quartz tank, and has ceramic wick. There rare mods like Caravela 200$-400$, Chi-You which could cost 300-700$ just for the handle if you can get it, or even a little 14500 setup like the Temon by MMV or Bagua+Arrow by Yellowkiss will cost like 300$... this stuff gets expensive lol and there never in stock. But they definitely need to improve the el core and bottom button ALOT!
What is the difference between the Cera bottom button and a mechanical mod bottom button like the Zenisis ?
mod note: Please avoid back-to-back posts, use Edit instead. Two posts merged.
Herbalist23
Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I can't believe it, my Cera is finally here
I went to the customs today to get it personal, I had to drive about on hour one way though, but now I have it, yeah yeah yeah, so happy
So want some cera porn???
Here we go!!!
Just put my other portable vapes on the pic for fun!
The glass tool is custom made from SMILEBONGS (german manufacturer
)
Now I'm waiting for fully charged batteries
I hope you enjoy my little show?
When some playing and vaping is done, I will make a review
Vape on
Herbalist23
I went to the customs today to get it personal, I had to drive about on hour one way though, but now I have it, yeah yeah yeah, so happy
So want some cera porn???
Here we go!!!
Just put my other portable vapes on the pic for fun!
The glass tool is custom made from SMILEBONGS (german manufacturer
)
Now I'm waiting for fully charged batteries
I hope you enjoy my little show?
When some playing and vaping is done, I will make a review
Vape on
Herbalist23
Ricardooayee
Active Member
Is that the packaging that the Cera comes in ? That's a LL Cera right ?
jpdnkstr
Well-Known Member
No, not TV packaging, and most likely LL Cera due to the mouthpiece.
Breathemetal
Well-Known Member
That charger is dope
Ricardooayee
Active Member
i was thinking the same thing. Does anyone have any idea what kind of charger that is? The cera i just bought doesn't include a charger.
Cheerful Dub
Spaced Station
If it's truly mechanical there is no electrical activity going on in the switch itself, so nothing to go wrong as there is no current passing through it at any point in time, like the T1 sleeve. I could be totally wrong but this is how I understand it.
I am personally looking at a Precise+ ELA as soon as they catch up with their preorders, thank god for the ECF forum, then I am going to cobble together my own adapter 3/8-24 to 7MM/0.5 and peace out on this ceramic.
I think OF described it as a sports car turned dump truck, the guts are similar but once one is up to speed handling characteristics go out the window. It's 2013, ain't nobody got time to wait for their cores to cool down, let alone the supporting assembly.
I think I should have probably bit the bullet and started taking this idea more seriously when Joe Kickass & Darb illustrated their custom power handles. I was still in denial, I suppose, and it seemed like too much work to make my own. There are alternatives, we just need to build a bridge
I am personally looking at a Precise+ ELA as soon as they catch up with their preorders, thank god for the ECF forum, then I am going to cobble together my own adapter 3/8-24 to 7MM/0.5 and peace out on this ceramic.
I think OF described it as a sports car turned dump truck, the guts are similar but once one is up to speed handling characteristics go out the window. It's 2013, ain't nobody got time to wait for their cores to cool down, let alone the supporting assembly.
I think I should have probably bit the bullet and started taking this idea more seriously when Joe Kickass & Darb illustrated their custom power handles. I was still in denial, I suppose, and it seemed like too much work to make my own. There are alternatives, we just need to build a bridge
nopartofme
Over the falls, in a barrel
The stock Cera battery tube & switch is a 'mechanical mod' as well; it means that there's a lack of electronics, not a lack of electrical components.
scottfree
Active Member
If it's truly mechanical there is no electrical activity going on in the switch itself, so nothing to go wrong as there is no current passing through it at any point in time, like the T1 sleeve. I could be totally wrong but this is how I understand it.
I am personally looking at a Precise+ ELA as soon as they catch up with their preorders, thank god for the ECF forum, then I am going to cobble together my own adapter 3/8-24 to 7MM/0.5 and peace out on this ceramic.
I think OF described it as a sports car turned dump truck, the guts are similar but once one is up to speed handling characteristics go out the window. It's 2013, ain't nobody got time to wait for their cores to cool down, let alone the supporting assembly.
I think I should have probably bit the bullet and started taking this idea more seriously when Joe Kickass & Darb illustrated their custom power handles. I was still in denial, I suppose, and it seemed like too much work to make my own. There are alternatives, we just need to build a bridge
Let me know when you get the adapter done. I need to make one.
While we're on the topic of cases, I've found the Pelican 1075 to be absolutely perfect. It even has a nice place for a lock.
A little pricy but well worth the investment. http://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Products-1075-HardBack-1070-000-110/dp/B005ERO7QM.
I've also been meaning to share a little trick I learned to produce some HUGE clouds while conserving my organic matter.
I took two of those Ceramic screens and filed them down, with one slightly smaller than the other.
Then you put it in the LL cart, as follows:
(the LL cart is tapered, hence the need to make the screens progressively smaller)
It packs it down nice and tight and you only end up using a tiny amount because you're only filling up a quarter or so of the cart. If you fill up the entire cart it browns it unevenly and you end up wasting a lot. Packing is key to clouds. Not sure if this works with the stock MP but the results have been phenomenal and I've been using nothing but this approach for the past few months.
I've all but given up hope on building a custom switch. Doing so would be ridiculously expensive with a run of just one ($500 minimum). There are lots of switches out there but they don't meet our exact requirements - 19mm, latching, 4A DC, non-illuminated, < 25MM in height. Many meet four out of five but not all five. I'll keep my eyes open though. In the meantime my original latching switch mod (it's a cheap illuminated switch that's dangerously rigged) is still working for me.
A little pricy but well worth the investment. http://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Products-1075-HardBack-1070-000-110/dp/B005ERO7QM.
I've also been meaning to share a little trick I learned to produce some HUGE clouds while conserving my organic matter.
I took two of those Ceramic screens and filed them down, with one slightly smaller than the other.
Then you put it in the LL cart, as follows:
(the LL cart is tapered, hence the need to make the screens progressively smaller)
It packs it down nice and tight and you only end up using a tiny amount because you're only filling up a quarter or so of the cart. If you fill up the entire cart it browns it unevenly and you end up wasting a lot. Packing is key to clouds. Not sure if this works with the stock MP but the results have been phenomenal and I've been using nothing but this approach for the past few months.
I've all but given up hope on building a custom switch. Doing so would be ridiculously expensive with a run of just one ($500 minimum). There are lots of switches out there but they don't meet our exact requirements - 19mm, latching, 4A DC, non-illuminated, < 25MM in height. Many meet four out of five but not all five. I'll keep my eyes open though. In the meantime my original latching switch mod (it's a cheap illuminated switch that's dangerously rigged) is still working for me.
Darb
Well-Known Member
I've been eyeing that ELA as well. It's really nice.
OF
Well-Known Member
OK, I've been trying to get this whole strap and other failures thing into focus. This includes not only working on my little 'test kit' but taking to 'the guys' at TV about the field returns.
It seems there's a lot of misinformation floating around being taken as fact by the well intentioned. As was explained to me, straps are simply not failing as folks think they are. Those reporting multiple failures (up to 4 or 5?) are simply mistaken about what the real problem is. Specifically they told me of a fellow who's sent his unit in 3 times for this problem (strap failure) and yet hasn't really had it happen even once. He had a switch go bad, and had this protective spring collapse, but the strap was sound all 3 times (even though they upgraded it just to be sure one of those times). There has been a single failure of a soldered or welded strap built in the current way. Originally they would score the backing on the adhesive strip on the strap near the top and 'stick it down' before stripping the bulk of the backing off to stick it to the side wall of the tube. This was leaving a score line on the copper that failed as it flexed. This was found in the days of soldering and corrected (they now peel it part way back and put a radius rather than curve in it with no score mark to collect the stress). None of these has failed, except the one that did. There the issue turned out to be the original first tubes are slightly longer, not an issue when the strap is connected after installation, but the welded ones are made on a jig. Since finding this they've either used a hand made longer strap or replaced the tube with the newer, shorter version.
The bottom line is the reports we're getting here are basically false, at least in large part it seems. Straps are not seen as a reliability problem by TV.....assumptions and net.wisdom to the contrary. IMO we don't yet have the straight story here, we're repeating innocent guesses as fact. I know this will trigger some angry 'that's not what happened to me' responses, but I'm repeating what I heard from TV......and based on my understanding of these sorts of things I tend to think they've got a proper handle on it. They are facing some typical 'chain reaction' issues where one change (say soldering rather than crimping connections) leads to another (like new problems with straps popping up) in addition to the usual challenges.
And again, they can point to 'finally fixed, working right now' units that actually had no problems found when they were returned to their anxious (and now happy) owners. No defect was found and corrected, this is not uncommon in Customer Service, ask anyone who's done it for a while. The customer always being right means they're never wrong...... If they change technique, shift strains or grind or whatever and suddenly get better results that won't be their fault, "there must be something wrong with my clubs!".
No comment on the individual owners, just a typical situation with people in general I think.
So, back to troubleshooting for the end users. Not only will this hopefully give us some more useful insights to the real issues but will also hopefully let a guy decide (for instance) the core is fine and doesn't need to be cleaned up and sent along. Or that the problem is definitely a switch that can be now replaced without sending the whole lot in. And so on.
Right now the kit is two simple pieces. One is a foot or so long jump wire with a tiny brass screw soldered on one end. The screw end can be pushed into one of the medium size holes to make contact wtih one of the setscrew/pins retaining the screw plate and be used to isolate the strap connections. It can also substitute for a switch to confirm the problem there or not.
The other piece is a vinyl cap with a hole punched in the end and the body cut back. It can be used to hold one end of the wire against the screw part of the cart while insulating things so only the center screw is exposed. This is then pushed on top of a freshly charged battery with the other end of the wire held to the bottom to confirm the status of the core (no need to clean and send in a good core if the problem is elsewhere in the unit). I'm still not done on tests for spring/battery fit but will have that sorted out soon I think. The owner will also have to provide some aluminum foil and a few dimes I think.
But for now, you might rethink PMing me and asking for a kit when they're ready (later this week I think). Free for the asking to anyone who sends their name and US address to me.....at least for now. Very few have. I have made tooling and bought parts to make the two pieces but don't intend to be in that business for ever.....or very long even.
For now, I'm confident there is no generic problem with Cera straps, connections, cores, batteries or switches as shipped. The design is good and they know what they're doing. Despite reports on this Forum to the contrary.....
Time will tell, thanks for listening.
OF
It seems there's a lot of misinformation floating around being taken as fact by the well intentioned. As was explained to me, straps are simply not failing as folks think they are. Those reporting multiple failures (up to 4 or 5?) are simply mistaken about what the real problem is. Specifically they told me of a fellow who's sent his unit in 3 times for this problem (strap failure) and yet hasn't really had it happen even once. He had a switch go bad, and had this protective spring collapse, but the strap was sound all 3 times (even though they upgraded it just to be sure one of those times). There has been a single failure of a soldered or welded strap built in the current way. Originally they would score the backing on the adhesive strip on the strap near the top and 'stick it down' before stripping the bulk of the backing off to stick it to the side wall of the tube. This was leaving a score line on the copper that failed as it flexed. This was found in the days of soldering and corrected (they now peel it part way back and put a radius rather than curve in it with no score mark to collect the stress). None of these has failed, except the one that did. There the issue turned out to be the original first tubes are slightly longer, not an issue when the strap is connected after installation, but the welded ones are made on a jig. Since finding this they've either used a hand made longer strap or replaced the tube with the newer, shorter version.
The bottom line is the reports we're getting here are basically false, at least in large part it seems. Straps are not seen as a reliability problem by TV.....assumptions and net.wisdom to the contrary. IMO we don't yet have the straight story here, we're repeating innocent guesses as fact. I know this will trigger some angry 'that's not what happened to me' responses, but I'm repeating what I heard from TV......and based on my understanding of these sorts of things I tend to think they've got a proper handle on it. They are facing some typical 'chain reaction' issues where one change (say soldering rather than crimping connections) leads to another (like new problems with straps popping up) in addition to the usual challenges.
And again, they can point to 'finally fixed, working right now' units that actually had no problems found when they were returned to their anxious (and now happy) owners. No defect was found and corrected, this is not uncommon in Customer Service, ask anyone who's done it for a while. The customer always being right means they're never wrong...... If they change technique, shift strains or grind or whatever and suddenly get better results that won't be their fault, "there must be something wrong with my clubs!".
No comment on the individual owners, just a typical situation with people in general I think.
So, back to troubleshooting for the end users. Not only will this hopefully give us some more useful insights to the real issues but will also hopefully let a guy decide (for instance) the core is fine and doesn't need to be cleaned up and sent along. Or that the problem is definitely a switch that can be now replaced without sending the whole lot in. And so on.
Right now the kit is two simple pieces. One is a foot or so long jump wire with a tiny brass screw soldered on one end. The screw end can be pushed into one of the medium size holes to make contact wtih one of the setscrew/pins retaining the screw plate and be used to isolate the strap connections. It can also substitute for a switch to confirm the problem there or not.
The other piece is a vinyl cap with a hole punched in the end and the body cut back. It can be used to hold one end of the wire against the screw part of the cart while insulating things so only the center screw is exposed. This is then pushed on top of a freshly charged battery with the other end of the wire held to the bottom to confirm the status of the core (no need to clean and send in a good core if the problem is elsewhere in the unit). I'm still not done on tests for spring/battery fit but will have that sorted out soon I think. The owner will also have to provide some aluminum foil and a few dimes I think.
But for now, you might rethink PMing me and asking for a kit when they're ready (later this week I think). Free for the asking to anyone who sends their name and US address to me.....at least for now. Very few have. I have made tooling and bought parts to make the two pieces but don't intend to be in that business for ever.....or very long even.
For now, I'm confident there is no generic problem with Cera straps, connections, cores, batteries or switches as shipped. The design is good and they know what they're doing. Despite reports on this Forum to the contrary.....
Time will tell, thanks for listening.
OF
jpdnkstr
Well-Known Member
Thanks Of, for all the time you put into multiple threads on this forum. The information I have gathered here has been tremendously valuable, has literally changed my life, and the way I ingest cannabis. I am a healthier, happier person since I've become an FC'er. Oh yeah, can't wait for Cera light.