Life Saber (LSV) by Elev8 Vehicles

Vaponly said:

I always rotate through the entire hit and stir afterward.



I have experimented with that in the past and got very similar results to when I rotate it. As a matter of fact several members use/have used M/M gong adapters to good effect, with which no rotation is even possible.

Also tried faster and slower draw speeds and temperature settings anywhere from 11-3 o'clock.



I do not claim to be a vapor wizard or anything, but I have been vaping since the very late '90s. As a result it does not take me a long time to learn to use a new unit and I have had the LSV for some time now.

The units listed in my signature are just the ones I still own.

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Well, I'm not sure what to tell you, obviously I will need to use the unit a bit more to get a better grasp of how this may be prevented.

One thought I have, however, is that perhaps you aren't bending your screens before putting in the bowl?

On my SSV, 7th floor instructed that I bend the screen like to the shape of a contact lens. Put the cup side down , so the screen will be lowest at the edges of your bowl, and highest right above the hole.

I don't know if they tell people to do this with the LSV as well, but it seems to increase the airflow greatly, and allow the edges to vape.

If your already doing this, then maybe you just like your AVB a certain way, and since I am expecting browning for my AVB I don't perceive it as singeing my bowl, when perhaps in your eyes it is.

All I can say is my AVB never has black in it, and when I hear singeing, I think burning/combustion.

DeltaNine said:

One thought I have, however, is that perhaps you aren't bending your screens before putting in the bowl?

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Unfortunately, that is exactly what I have been doing. It seems to be the only way to get a screen past the pinches without mangling it. With that said I think the pinches are a great feature, once the screen is installed it stays put, no matter what.

DeltaNine said:

when I hear singeing, I think burning/combustion.

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Sorry, I did not mean to imply that combustion was taking place. It is not.

Just a much darker spot in the corner. I can taste it a little in the first hit. Of course the flavor intensifies as the load dries out and gets closer to being cashed.

This may all be due to fact that I can get a weeks worth of medicine out of just one load I have seen in many LSV video's. That is not even counting the concentrates that are frequently used as a topping.

I have been very hesitant to post any of this as it is not my intention to trash the product. I am just looking for ways to make it work better for me.

I've had mine since Tuesday and I've got it down pretty well so far. As far as I can tell its all about draw speed with this one. My knob points at 6 o'clock when off and if I'm vaping dry with the wand I find 12 oclock to be perfect, if I'm using a water piece I like between 2 and 3 o'clock, from there I just play with different draw speeds depending on how I'm using it. I've gotta say I really enjoy using it with my pinnacle wt and vxh hydracirc!

VaPeD&CoNfUsEd said:

As far as I can tell its all about draw speed with this one.

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I agree. But not to the extent of an "old school" non-adjustable log vape, those where far trickier than the LSV IMO. With that said I could always make my load come out a uniform golden-brown with my old Zap.

VaPeD&CoNfUsEd said:

if I'm using a water piece I like between 2 and 3 o'clock

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I only use mine with water. With the dial set to 3 o'clock I have to draw really fast or that nagging dark spot turns to combustion.

At 1-1:30 o'clock I can finish a .05g load in three hits and have a brown load carcass peppered with dark-brown/black bits.

VaPeD&CoNfUsEd said:

I've gotta say I really enjoy using it with my pinnacle wt and vxh hydracirc!

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That is an awesome setup!

Vaponly said:

I agree. But not to the extent of an "old school" non-adjustable log vape, those where far trickier than the LSV IMO.

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Man, I don't think so. To me, the LSV has much more deviation relative to draw speed than my PD had and I conclude that, for the most part, it has to do with draw restriction along with a non-adjustable temp.

lwien said:

Man, I don't think so. To me, the LSV has much more deviation relative to draw speed than my PD had and I conclude that, for the most part, it has to do with draw restriction along with a non-adjustable temp.

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I have never used a Purple Dream, so I do not really have a point of reference.

With the zap, if you draw slow you combust and if you draw fast you end up with a wispy hit. It took some practice to get it right, especially with a full stem. Looking at my old zap stem, there is no restriction.

Does the PD have a draw restriction like the SOLO? Because the restriction in the Solo makes it a total no-brainer to use.

You combusted with a Zap? I never heard of anyone doing that before, at least not with the standard power supply.

And no restriction with a loaded stem? Wow...........

Both of those statements surprise me.

I've never used a Solo so I have no idea if the restriction with the PD (Purple Days) was the same or not.

lwien said:

You combusted with a Zap? I never heard of anyone doing that before, at least not with the standard power supply.

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Yes. Just to be clear we are talking about the original zap with the skinny stems. Full stem turns black on top and brown on the bottom if you draw too slowly.

lwien said:

And no restriction with a loaded stem? Wow...........

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Well if you want to count the material as a mechanical restriction then sure. If I recall the instruction manual said not to pack the bowl to avoid combustion.

lwien said:

Both of those statements surprise me.

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Ok...

lwien said:

I've never used a Solo so I have no idea if the restriction with the PD (Purple Days) was the same or not.

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Hitting the Solo is alot like drinking a really thick milkshake, as long as you do not fight the draw it vapes very consistently without much effort. I would assume the the PD's restriction was put in place for a similar purpose.

This is all kind of odd. I always thought that the Zaps and the PD's had, more or less, the same operating temp ranges that were both below combustion temps.

And regarding restriction, even with an empty stem, there was a lot more restriction going on than thru a WPA or the wand of the LSV simply because of the lower internal volume of the stem and the bowl of the PD, and from what I've seen, the stems of the Zaps weren't that much more voluminous.

I'm still kind of scratching my head on this one.

lwien said:

I always thought that the Zaps and the PD's had, more or less, the same operating temp ranges that were both below combustion temps.

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Again, not sure about the PD, also not sure about any of the newer zaps.

The advances in Log-Vape technology these days is truly astounding!

lwien said:

And regarding restriction, even with an empty stem, there was a lot more restriction going on than thru a WPA or the wand of the LSV simply because of the lower internal volume of the stem and the bowl of the PD, and from what I've seen, the stems of the Zaps weren't that much more voluminous.

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Well of course it has more restriction than a transfer wand or WPA, considering the size difference is it any wonder?

Looking at one of my Zap stems, there are no bottlenecks just a straight shot. Perhaps our definitions of what constitutes a restriction are not quite the same? When I say restriction I am referring to a purpose built bottleneck put in place by the manufacturer.

Here is a pic of an old style zap like mine. The one in the middle is identical to mine. It has a suede bottom.:



Measuring the stem with my ruler.:
The stem measures 3 3/8" long overall. The bowl measures 1/8" inch wide by 5/16" deep (before screen pinch).

The power supply reads:
Jameco
Model No: ACU120100
Product Number: AC1210F1
Input: 120VAC 60Hz 16.5W
Output: 12VAC 1000ma

I fail to see how any of this is relevant to my issue with the LSV, but I will play along to quell the unmistakable sound of your bullshit detector being tripped.

No no. Let me clarify. It's not my bullshit detector being tripped because in all honestly, I'm actually questioning my own thoughts on this.

The ONLY reason I'm bringing this up, is in your statement of, "But not to the extent of an "old school" non-adjustable log vape, those where far trickier than the LSV IMO." While I don't find the LSV tricky to use, I never found the PD any trickier to use and I assumed, maybe wrongly, that the PD and the early Zaps were very similar in this regard.

lwien said:

No no. Let me clarify. It's not my bullshit detector being tripped because in all honestly, I'm actually questioning my own thoughts on this.

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Sorry for misunderstanding your intent. I did not mean come off as overly defensive with that last quip.

It has been a very long time since I have had my Zap plugged in and ready to go. But clearly recall that technique was always a BIG part of using it to its full potential.

I would place the stem in the boot while taking a slow inhale until tasting the material to get it started. Then you would pull the stem out and sort of hover it around the boot to keep the vapor flowing, to minimize conduction while still passing hot air over the material. Sometimes you would have to re-insert in the middle of a hit to keep it going strong. Then exhale, stir and repeat.

Leaving the stem in the boot and taking a slow draw throughout the hit would char the load guaranteed. If packed it would combust.

This to me is far more tedious than using the LSV.

But then again the zap was far simpler than using a skillet and a drinking glass with a hole drilled in the bottom and a hose connected to it via epoxy, like me and an old friend of mine rigged up in the 80's after reading a wacky article in high times.

lwien said:

While I don't find the LSV tricky to use, I never found the PD any trickier to use and I assumed, maybe wrongly, that the PD and the early Zaps were very similar in this regard.

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The LSV is not tricky at all IMO. That is why I am so perplexed by the problem I am experiencing. To the extent of buying a Solo and now an E-Nano, after trying three different heater covers and two WPA's.

Don't get me wrong the LSV is VERY effective and taste's good despite the over cooked spot. Just wanted to see what other peoples experiences where, especially those that do not vape entire bushels in one sitting.

Just a nice quiet friday night, kids are spending the night at friends and the wife went to bed early. (INSERT GIANT SIGH OF RELIEF HERE)

Hi vaporizers fellows ,

I bought a LSV years ago. My experience with the LSV (my first and only vape) is that with just the transfer wand the hits are very hot and irritating for my vocal chords and lungs (Im a singer and I lost range and vocal quality because of this). It depends obviously of the vape temp but in general the direct draw experience is not smooth at all. Some time ago in an accident, unfortunately, all the glass pieces of my LSV broken down (heating cover, transfer wand and WPA). Now I have the money and the time to do the research and buy the neccessary pieces in order to be able to use the LSV again but Im interested in vape-bong this time because Im looking for the smooth hits available (if I cant reduce the irritating factor of vaping I'll not be able to vape anymore in order to take care of my voice and lungs).

I know that I need to buy the heating cover but I dont know what is the best option for the other pieces. I mean, maybe it will be smoother if I buy the Whip Transfer Kit and connect it to a bong in order to increase the length of the air flow. But I have read that maybe the increased length of the air flow can be fatiguing for the lungs? after reading some threads Im somewhat sure that if I use only the WPA with a bong maybe I'll get my vocal chords irritated as well my lungs so Im considering to vape-bong but increasing the airpath as well using the Whip + a bong. What do you think?

When I bought the LSV I chose it over the SSV because his almost 100% glass path (SSV has a plastic whip), however, Im disposed to lost flavor in order to get smoother hits. Maybe the Whip + bong election is a safe decision?

In order to use the Whip and a bong I need to buy the WPA too? or can I introduce the plastic tube into the bong without problem?

Thanks for the information , sorry if I misspelled some words, english is not my native language

I was going to edit some misspelled words (broke and not broke down for example) but I can't edit my original message? I dont find the edit option so please ignore the grammatical errors

Hi LSV vaporizers fellows , please tell me what you think

I bought a LSV years ago. My experience with the LSV (my first and only vape) is that with just the transfer wand the hits are very hot and irritating for my vocal chords and lungs (Im a singer and I lost range and vocal quality because of this). It depends obviously of the vape temp but in general the direct draw experience is not smooth at all. Some time ago in an accident, unfortunately, all the glass pieces of my LSV broke (heating cover, transfer wand and WPA). Now I have the money and the time to do the research and buy the necessary pieces in order to be able to use the LSV again but Im interested in vape-bong this time because Im looking for the smooths hits available (if I cant reduce the irritating factor of vaping I'll not be able to vape anymore).

I know that I need to buy the heating cover but I dont know what is the best option for the other pieces. I mean, maybe it will be smoother if I buy the Whip Transfer Kit and connect it to a bong in order to increase the length of the air flow. But I have read that maybe the increased length of the air flow can be fatiguing for the lungs? I dont know. After reading some threads Im somewhat sure that if I use only the WPA with a bong maybe I'll get my vocal chords irritated as well my lungs so Im considering to vape-bong but increasing the vapor path as well using the Whip + a bong. What do you think?

When I bought the LSV I chose it over the SSV because his almost 100% glass path, however, Im disposed to lost flavor in order to get smoother hits if is necessary. Maybe the Whip + bong election is my best option?

In order to use the Whip and a bong I need to buy the WPA too?

Please let me know what you think. Thanks for the information , sorry if I misspelled some words, english is not my native language

Seems like VaPeD&CoNfUsEd's setup pictured above would do you just fine

What's the name of that bubbler anyways?

@tritono
Putting distance between the herb & you will smooth out the hits some so adding a whip should help with dry hits some but a water path will do far more to smooth out your vapor than just a whip. I wouldn't bother trying to use the whip & bong together, I would just use a normal WPA, the water is going to do far more to cool & moisturize the vapor than the whip will do, with the bong, the whip is nothing more than "dead" air you have to pull through the system before you start getting vapor into your lungs. If you do decide that you want to use a whip & bong together though, the LSV WPA won't work, you will need a ground glass fitting that will fit into the whip, like a SSV or EQ elbow.

After deciding which way you want to connect to your bong the bigger question is what type of bong should you get. I would suggest a medium sized piece with some diffusion if you still want the flavor to come through. When you add a bong you are definitely going to lose some flavor but you don't have to lose it all. If you get a large piece with lots & lots of percs in it your hits will by very smooth but there will be almost no flavor. I love my little 14 inch single disc honeycomb, just the right amount of diffusion for me. Once you start looking for a bong you should pick a few out & then ask here what people think of them for an honest opinion.

A couple of other suggestions to consider. First, the LSV (and all the 7th floor products) are heavy hitters, you might be better suited with a different unit given your situation, possibly either an HA or VAP2 which are both quality units but aren't designed to produce massive hits the way the LSV is. Also you could try switching over to medibles & tinctures so you aren't inhaling anything because even with a bong there could still be a little irritation. If your current alternative to vaping is smoking then you definitely should try vape-bonging, it will make a world of difference.

@grokit
that it the Vaporblunt Pinnacle Water Tool. It actually might be a little bit small & not enough diffusion to properly condition the vapor enough for Tritano's situation. I know there are a few solo owners that love that thing though.

Tritono said:

Hi LSV vaporizers fellows , please tell me what you think

I bought a LSV years ago. My experience with the LSV (my first and only vape) is that with just the transfer wand the hits are very hot and irritating for my vocal chords and lungs (Im a singer and I lost range and vocal quality because of this). It depends obviously of the vape temp but in general the direct draw experience is not smooth at all. Some time ago in an accident, unfortunately, all the glass pieces of my LSV broke (heating cover, transfer wand and WPA). Now I have the money and the time to do the research and buy the necessary pieces in order to be able to use the LSV again but Im interested in vape-bong this time because Im looking for the smooths hits available (if I cant reduce the irritating factor of vaping I'll not be able to vape anymore).

I know that I need to buy the heating cover but I dont know what is the best option for the other pieces. I mean, maybe it will be smoother if I buy the Whip Transfer Kit and connect it to a bong in order to increase the length of the air flow. But I have read that maybe the increased length of the air flow can be fatiguing for the lungs? I dont know. After reading some threads Im somewhat sure that if I use only the WPA with a bong maybe I'll get my vocal chords irritated as well my lungs so Im considering to vape-bong but increasing the vapor path as well using the Whip + a bong. What do you think?

When I bought the LSV I chose it over the SSV because his almost 100% glass path, however, Im disposed to lost flavor in order to get smoother hits if is necessary. Maybe the Whip + bong election is my best option?

In order to use the Whip and a bong I need to buy the WPA too?

Please let me know what you think. Thanks for the information , sorry if I misspelled some words, english is not my native language

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Before going the whip route, try hitting your LSV through very warm water in a medium sized, (12 inch) bong with medium diffusion.

Currently, I'm using the SC tube with the cubes pre-heated, with VERY good results. I, like you, find that the wand runs hot and harsh (unless I puff on it, cigar-like). With warm water and a tube like I described above, I can take absolutely HUGE hits with any lung distress at all.

Give it a shot and you may find out that you don't need the whips at all.

I personally prefer cold water. I found the warm water to be much harsher, in fact I personally found warm water to be even harsher than hitting it dry, but the flavor comes through a lot more than cold water. IME though I would rather hit it dry than with warm water. Again this is just my own personal experience because I know lwien isn't the only person on here that swears by warm water.

I'd have to say that I agree with Clouded Vision, I'd also recommend a medium size bong with a honeycomb disc. Since you said you are worried about restriction I think a single honeycomb disc will be good for keeping the drag/restriction to a minimum while still giving good percolation/smoothing of the vapor. Turbine discs are also quite often used as an alternative to or in conjunction with honeycombs. The difference is that honeycombs has lots of small holes whereas turbines have larger slits from near the centre of the disc going out to the edge.

This disc shown below is a honeycomb.



This disc shown below at the top is a turbine.


One thing to consider is that although more discs will smooth the vapor more they will also increase drag/restriction. That is why I only recommended a single disc originally, but if you decide that it's less of a factor than the cooling you may want a double honeycomb, double turbine or honeycomb turbine mix.

A height of about 14 inches will mean the vapor is well cooled by the time it reaches your mouth and lungs without too much loss of flavour, also this should mean it's a comfortable volume for you to fill with vapor and clear easily.

If you want something to last then although it will be more expensive I'd recommend a good quality USA made piece using Schott glass. Schott are glass manufacturers that produce very high quality glass tubes that is free from defects like bubbles and impurities that you may find in other cheaper glass. This means any bongs made with Schott glass will be stronger than others.

If you look in the right places you should be able to get a single honeycomb made with good quality glass and produced in the USA for about $120. For a double honeycomb or honeycomb turbine combination I would expect to pay around $140. Those prices quoted were for 14 inch size bongs.

It might be worth noting that the lattice bongs made by Leviathan/M&M tech will perform similarly to a honeycomb, their cheapest one is a fair bit more expensive at $200 plus shipping and being 16 inches in height it may be too large for you. Please ignore the showerhead ashcatcher in the stem as that is a separate piece.



As you can see the lattice is rather pretty but you certainly end up paying for it. Although compared to a brand like mobius it is still relatively cheap. If you are looking for more functional glass without the price tag I would recommend both JhanPixel and Colie Glass. Have a look through their stores that I linked and see if anything catches your eye.

JhanPixel has only recently switched to Schott glass so he's phasing out the stuff made with the cheaper glass which had the odd complaint about having bubbles in. I'm not sure if you offer to pay more if he'll give you a Schott piece as I imagine the production cost will be higher for him from using better glass. It's worth noting that JhanPixel's prices include US shipping(You'll have to ask him for interanational rates) and he offers 10% off of anything that costs over $100 to FC members. For example his 13 inch double disc wubbler may be a good fit for you would cost $140 inc. US shipping.

All of the Colie Glass pieces are made from Schott glass as this is the only type of glass that he uses. Colie Glass offer 20% off all prices to FC members and quite often free shipping. For example this 14 inch Inline Honeycomb seems to fit your needs and would cost $140. He is a quite willing to adjust pieces so if for example you wanted to get the stem angled out to be more compatible with the LSV WPA or the single honeycomb on it's own without the inline perc underneath it then I imagine he'd be willing to do that. You can ask him any questions using the contact seller button on his Artfire store that I linked.

Another place to consider is Glass Blowers Direct as Clouded Vision seems very happy with his piece and you can see a video of it in action on page 123 of this thread. I'm not sure what glass they use to make their pieces but Clouded Vision might know or otherwise you could ask Sam at Glass Blowers Direct himself.

I guess what I'm trying to say is don't be tempted by the cheap Chinese made stuff like Cheech as if you're willing to pay just a little bit extra you can get some nice USA made stuff. Also if you ever decide you don't want it any more it'll maintain it's value better and you'll be able to sell it a lot easier on this forum.

I hope all this useful as you can probably guess it took me a while to write but I'm always willing to try and help a fellow FC member.

I don't know what brand glass Sam uses but The quality is top notch though,I found 2 bubbles, one at a weld and the other on the support for the stem. I believe I read some where that he won't ship internationally (not even to Canada), I could be wrong or thinking of a different blower. I would definitely try emailing Sam though. I also know someone on here found a service that will accept delivery in the US then will ship it out internationally for you but then you might not get such a great deal on it due to extra shipping abd service charges. I definitely agree with richy though don't waste your money on cheap China glass when you can get something quality for just a little bit more, just stay away from the major brands like Roor unless you have money to blow. there is nothing wrong with Roor I just feel it is overpriced compared to what you can get from a quality glass blower directly.

I'm assuming you are in Europe based on thetime of your post and you said English isn't your native language. If you have a problem finding an American blower that will ship to you, you might have some luck finding a quality German blower (I know absolutely nothing about the European glass sub-culture but both schott glass and roor are German so I assume there are other artists abd you might find someone like Sam at GBD)

edit: colie and jhan might ship international for you as well so you could ask either of them. both of them are putting out what looks like some real quality pieces. I almost went with one their pieces instead of my GBD, I was torn between the 3 different artists on finally settled on GBD but don't have a good reason to pick one over the other. If I had unlimited funds I probably would have gotten one from each

I think you're right about the international shipping. In fact I'm pretty sure I asked him a while back as I live in the UK and he said he didn't do it. My bad, I should have remembered that. I haven't had a vape for almost a month now so I can't blame the "demon weed", mind you I have always had a rather poor memory.

As for European brands, a lot of people swear by EHLE and although their stuff is well made I'm not aware of them doing anything with percolators in. I've only seen straight or bent tubes and ash catchers which I don't think will fit Tritono's needs. Since Jhan says on his site to ask about shipping I imagine he'll be OK with it and I know Colie Glass ship internationally so they are both still viable options. Of course Leviathan as well if you really want to splash the cash, see what I did there?

Salutations Tritono,

Tritono said:

...100% glass path... ...plastic tube...

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About the presence of "impurities" in the cannabic air/vapor path, i find satisfaction in a device made of metals, ceramic, wood and teflon/PVC, etc. So, i assume we may have diverging goals here... As far as i'm concerned though i'd just argue it's not coherent to choose nothing but glass and yet to wash the noble molecules in water when only a very tiny amount of moisture is actually required...


My VG is self-moisturizing because H2O production is part of the butane burning reaction (from heating with a butane lighter flame), while i'd expect vaporized cannabis released by electric vaporizers will feel too "dry", typically, unless a water accessory is used to "condition" it. M'well... Personally i'll much prefer FOG if i must anyway!...


Perhaps you could try this approach when you find a solution to the plastic tube interface, most likely made of silicone of teflon, i presume. I mean, after all... If it's really work a 100% glass-path then why wash it in a turmoil of bubbles despite the fact that your precious extract only needs to mix with a tiny amount of moisturized air (which renders it enjoyable without loosing too much of its other features)?...

Euh...

Can you post a picture?

VaPeD&CoNfUsEd said:

Just a nice quiet friday night, kids are spending the night at friends and the wife went to bed early. (INSERT GIANT SIGH OF RELIEF HERE)

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Do you have a video of this being used ?