Arizer Solo

OF

Well-Known Member
Why cant they flip the power port and have us charge from here.

I wouldnt care if the power port was on the front at least then when im using OF's Jameco power adapter(Which works really great so far)
I could leave it standing straight up!!

No compelling reason, they decided not to put it on the front panel....off hand I can't think of a single thing I have that has the charge jack on the front panel? Computers, cameras, cell phones, mp3 player and so on.

In this case I bet the Esthetics Police wouldn't let them break the symmetry of the panel? Even if they'd allow it there.

For myself, I like the cord coming out the bottom when I'm holding it, and have no trouble laying it on it's side or back when I can no longer hold it up.

If they could get permission to put the jack elsewhere, there's nothing to say that they can't also leave the one on the bottom there too of course.

I've even given some thought to making a charging cradle, which I think would be useful sometimes.

Life is a compromise. You may have less hair to comb buy you get more forehead to wash.

OF
 

Dreamerr

Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
I have a stand so my solo is always up right. I just switch the plugs from charge to PA and all is good.

As stated in the last few pages if you don't want to spend the money on the PVHES stems then just get the cheap sanitary tips from the e-cigs. They actually work better in many ways except for the fact you no longer have glass in your mouth. I bet they will mate well with a water piece too.
 

poonman

Well-Known Member
I have a stand so my solo is always up right. I just switch the plugs from charge to PA and all is good.

As stated in the last few pages if you don't want to spend the money on the PVHES stems then just get the cheap sanitary tips from the e-cigs. They actually work better in many ways except for the fact you no longer have glass in your mouth. I bet they will mate well with a water piece too.

Hey Dreamerr ,
I'm glad you're liking the e-cig tips .
When you put them on , try stretch/wrapping it around the stem lip first .
And pull down the sides , I think you're just pushing down on the stem with the ' tip ' on .
I only dry vape with the tips on now , and on levels 5 and 6 because it much smoother .
Also , I didn't find the last inch of vapor path taste compromised b/c of the silicone tip . imo
But some will , I'm sure .

It is the best DIY for removing the problem of ' Restrictive air flow ' for inhaling . ime

@ al bundy ;
+ 1 for the NO2 screens , that's all I use nowadays .
And what's beneath the 4 holes in the SS chamber ? Can you clean that area ?

@ bigtvapes ;
Hey I see you joined the Solo club , welcome .
I like to let the herbs cook a little before hitting , especially the first ' terepine ' hit .
I think the clouds are more denser if you let it cook longer in between hits . ime

@ SirDarkened ;
It's been 2 hours since your last post , Are you ' Flying Solo ' yet ?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Still no stems in the mail... tomorrow has to be the day!

Have faith. I got mine (ordered 6/4) yesterday.....along with the bonus chips.

I recall it being a little faster in the past, but there are two different Post Offices that get a shot at it......

OF
 
OF,

Dreamerr

Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
Poonman, that is exactly how I put it on but you do have to hold the glass tight or it keeps falling off. Anyhow I can taste the difference. For some reason the first two hits priming taste like mint. I can't be sure till I try a different strain. I don't remember last night about the taste but I think it was like now. I was doing cheese today and that tastes bad anyhow. I will switch for my next session to something yummy. I was busy all day and took the easy way out cause that stuff was ground but now it is gone.

I agree that is the best DIY answer and on the cheap.
 

Buildozer

Baked & Fried
^^ iv'e been telling one of my friends about this for a little bit now, but he wouldn't test it out... he finally tried my VB setup and then decided to try it on his UD the same way.. so far he likes it. iv'e been liking it a lot.
 
Buildozer,
  • Like
Reactions: poonman

OF

Well-Known Member
A quick update on the PA project with Pipes. We've exchanged a few PMs on the topic and are I think getting close to a solution. I think we're in agreement that a package can be put together for about $40 that will include all the parts necessary to charge and 'go PA' at home (with a provided table top supply about 1X2X6 inches) or in the car (using the provided car cord). Cables and adapters included. To go from charge to PA mode you'd unplug the connectors in the cable from the power supply (or car cord) and insert the regulator block (about 1X2X3 inches).

We've got some more arm waving to do, but I think it's well past the 50% possible point right now. I expect a plan in a week or so.

Keep your fingers crossed and think nice things about Pipes......

OF
 

AceTK

Radiant Thoughtforms
Hey guys has anyone noticed how the AC power brick says do not expose to vapor hehe. Sounds funny given its for a vaporizer lol.
 
AceTK,

OF

Well-Known Member
NOW WE CAN DO IT IN OUR CARS?

Like this:


That's the 3rd prototype of the regulator on the left and a typical 'car cord' on the right that would plug into it. Under the regulator is the adapter you know. Add a M/F extender cable between them (not shown) and you're good to go. These parts are part of the plan for the charge/PA package Pipes and I are discussing.

Leave the regulator out and you can charge in the car. Substitute the desktop supply for the car cord and you're vaping or charging at home on mains power. All 3 modes offered by the factory, plus car PA, for half the price?

All you gotta do is chill for a bit and let Pipes and I bounce it around some then we can all see what comes up. He's talking a dull old box for the regulator FYI, I'm liking my homely open Heat Sink version (prettier of course, but basically the same).

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I love this Solo so much I'm gifting it for Father's Day!
I'll grab another when PV gets more stock.

Yup, I got a spare now too. It's out on loan right now, I'm not sure it's going to be all that easy to get back, either. I'm fighting off the urge to get another, no need to repeat the MFLB exercise.... Five there IIRC. Sold one to a borrower who refused to return it, one on loan right now, my original stashed, the old style Walnut custom for special occasions and the 'normal use' one here on the desk.

A guy can really only use one at a time. Maybe.

OF
 

AceTK

Radiant Thoughtforms
Like this:


That's the 3rd prototype of the regulator on the left and a typical 'car cord' on the right that would plug into it. Under the regulator is the adapter you know. Add a M/F extender cable between them (not shown) and you're good to go. These parts are part of the plan for the charge/PA package Pipes and I are discussing.

Leave the regulator out and you can charge in the car. Substitute the desktop supply for the car cord and you're vaping or charging at home on mains power. All 3 modes offered by the factory, plus car PA, for half the price?

All you gotta do is chill for a bit and let Pipes and I bounce it around some then we can all see what comes up. He's talking a dull old box for the regulator FYI, I'm liking my homely open Heat Sink version (prettier of course, but basically the same).

OF




Wow thats a big heatsink on that voltage converter. Would I be correct in guessing you are using a linear regulator? Using linear regulation you waste the volts from 12 to 8.5v/9v as heat. Typically if you use a dedicated switching buck regulator you should have just a little over 10% losses as it uses an inductor to transform it. Also this means you can build it all inside the 12v plug, have a little switch for heat or charge and maybe glowing leds for each mode. Good effort so far though.
 
AceTK,
  • Like
Reactions: rcflo

OF

Well-Known Member
Wow thats a big heatsink on that voltage converter. Would I be correct in guessing you are using a linear regulator? Using linear regulation you waste the volts from 12 to 8.5v/9v as heat. Typically if you use a dedicated switching buck regulator you should have just a little over 10% losses as it uses an inductor to transform it. Also this means you can build it all inside the 12v plug, have a little switch for heat or charge and maybe glowing leds for each mode. Good effort so far though.

Yup, it's about 1X2X3 inches. Smaller than the wall wort that feeds it.

A switcher would save several Watts but at the expense of cost and complexity. A conscious choice I made, feel free to follow your inclinations and hopefully offer them when ready?

The electrical parts costs are under a buck here, well under five with heatsink and connectors in runs of 10. I'm going for low cost and reliability (the linear one is basically bomb proof), IMO users want economy and reliability and don't really care what's inside the box or modest levels of heat.

Based on my testing I think you want to shoot for about 8 Volts, let it get past 8.5 (where their PA really is despite the label on the Solo bottom) and you get into 'light show' country. My Solo tilts out about 9.05 where normal production variations would easily take you if you set it too close (you don't really want to hold one percent worst case, do you?). Better to aim for the center of the 7 to 9 Volt window IMO.

But, in the fine spirit of the free market, by all means promote your solution as well....the customer is generally well served by more choices.

Thanks for the thoughts.

OF
 

SirDarkened

Active Member
Once I get to a computer I'll type out the story of what happened but I am finally going to try out the solo!

Named mine Ronald as I use it in a mcdonalds cup for stealth :)
 

AceTK

Radiant Thoughtforms
Yup, it's about 1X2X3 inches. Smaller than the wall wort that feeds it.

A switcher would save several Watts but at the expense of cost and complexity. A conscious choice I made, feel free to follow your inclinations and hopefully offer them when ready?

The electrical parts costs are under a buck here, well under five with heatsink and connectors in runs of 10. I'm going for low cost and reliability (the linear one is basically bomb proof), IMO users want economy and reliability and don't really care what's inside the box or modest levels of heat.

Based on my testing I think you want to shoot for about 8 Volts, let it get past 8.5 (where their PA really is despite the label on the Solo bottom) and you get into 'light show' country. My Solo tilts out about 9.05 where normal production variations would easily take you if you set it too close (you don't really want to hold one percent worst case, do you?). Better to aim for the center of the 7 to 9 Volt window IMO.

But, in the fine spirit of the free market, by all means promote your solution as well....the customer is generally well served by more choices.

Thanks for the thoughts.

OF



Yeah true your solution is cheap and easy for those who don't mind about wasted heat and energy. I generally operate my solo at 8.5v and it heats very well at this voltage. I've not got it built into the 12v plug yet but I do have some LT buck surface mounts that would be perfect. Saving energy is crucial for me as I'm often on the move with portable battery packs and solar panels. Il be sure to update everyone here when I have it running.
 
AceTK,

OF

Well-Known Member
Yeah true your solution is cheap and easy for those who don't mind about wasted heat and energy. I generally operate my solo at 8.5v and it heats very well at this voltage. I've not got it built into the 12v plug yet but I do have some LT buck surface mounts that would be perfect. Saving energy is crucial for me as I'm often on the move with portable battery packs and solar panels. Il be sure to update everyone here when I have it running.

Cool.

I'm not sure what device you're using but it also bears watching the input voltage in auto use. Generally the switch element in the converter is optimized for speed, which usually means compromising Vcc....which is why you see the 'headroom' small in distributed systems. In auto use, you need to expect 15 VDC for long times, 18 or so for a second or so and even worse for RV use where folks go to 'shore power' and the lights get real bright for a change.....they still expect to vape then too.

Fun project.

******************

In other news, Pipes and I just had another exchange, we're converging on one design. He's favoring an aluminum box with pigtail leads, something like my second prototype.....since he's gotta make 'em he gets final call there I guess.

I'm expecting a solid, dependable design able to do 'all four modes' (charge and PA in both auto and home) with all necessary bits for $40 or maybe a bit less? Yes, it does include 220 Volts operation (Pipes was right there.....darn Cannuks!), although we haven't identified the cord for that (no big deal I'm sure, we just don't have a lot of them here in the US. It's a standard connector on the supply.

More later when it's available. But it's 'looking good'.

OF
 

Dreamerr

Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
Pipes is so smart and talented but you are as well OF. Just make the connector cords long enough. That is why I ended up with my stand...not so much that I wanted it upright, I wanted the long cord so I didn't have to do magic tricks to use the PA or charger.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Pipes is so smart and talented but you are as well OF. Just make the connector cords long enough. That is why I ended up with my stand...not so much that I wanted it upright, I wanted the long cord so I didn't have to do magic tricks to use the PA or charger.

Hard to say where it'll end up, but right now it's like six feet to the regulator and five from there to you and Mister Solo. For a couple bucks we can add 3 or 6 feet to that with standard commercial extension cord.

You'll have time to pick it apart, honest.

OF
 
Top Bottom