David Goldstein's Fritted Disc
- Thread starter MarcellusWiley
- Start date
Adobewan
Well-Known Member
Hi All,
I searched first before asking so here goes. I recently picked up a beautiful DG Mini from the classifieds and I now understand why these are so coveted.
But I believe there may have a bit of mold/mildew in the frit. After numerous PBW rinses and ISO rinses, a slight moldy smell still lingers, partially I imagine, because water remains in the nooks and crannies of the frit.
So, I've started putting the Mini on my Extreme Q to blow dry it after rinsing, hoping to get rid of the mold. It's a perfect fit and thought I'd try a routine of ISO rinse, hot water rinse, blow dry, repeat and I wondered, is it cool to be blasting 500º air into that little neck?
Any advice on this would be appreciated.
TIA
I searched first before asking so here goes. I recently picked up a beautiful DG Mini from the classifieds and I now understand why these are so coveted.
But I believe there may have a bit of mold/mildew in the frit. After numerous PBW rinses and ISO rinses, a slight moldy smell still lingers, partially I imagine, because water remains in the nooks and crannies of the frit.
So, I've started putting the Mini on my Extreme Q to blow dry it after rinsing, hoping to get rid of the mold. It's a perfect fit and thought I'd try a routine of ISO rinse, hot water rinse, blow dry, repeat and I wondered, is it cool to be blasting 500º air into that little neck?
Any advice on this would be appreciated.
TIA
Roger D
Vapor Wizard
I totally see how stuff can grow so easy in there. The frit keeps some water trapped inside the piece so it is never really dry. I'm always sucking the trapped water out trough the male joint to get out most of it but there is always a bit left and it can stay like that for days. Maybe I should put some distilled water inside when stored and not try to dry it.
I could always dry it in my infrared tray but that would be a bit overkill
I would not blast hot especially in a piece that is like room temp or cold. That's how I f..d my mobius male joint once.
The smell lingering seems kind of stronger with the frit. It is usually not such a great odor, especially when you vape your stuff tills its dead. Smells like over heated vegetables.
I got rid of the issue with my flush system, I simply let water run trough it longer than with my others pieces. Also I flush in the two directions
edit : just picked it up, have not been used for 2-3 days, smells like beeh, i'm currently flushing it with a spoon of citric acid under the frit.
edit2 : one flush, still stinks like crap ; two flushes, stills stinks a bit ; double distilled final rinse : I'm searching to find something to smell
I could always dry it in my infrared tray but that would be a bit overkill
I would not blast hot especially in a piece that is like room temp or cold. That's how I f..d my mobius male joint once.
The smell lingering seems kind of stronger with the frit. It is usually not such a great odor, especially when you vape your stuff tills its dead. Smells like over heated vegetables.
I got rid of the issue with my flush system, I simply let water run trough it longer than with my others pieces. Also I flush in the two directions
edit : just picked it up, have not been used for 2-3 days, smells like beeh, i'm currently flushing it with a spoon of citric acid under the frit.
edit2 : one flush, still stinks like crap ; two flushes, stills stinks a bit ; double distilled final rinse : I'm searching to find something to smell
Adobewan
Well-Known Member
Thanks Roger.
Where do you get straight citric acid? I have pure lemon juice but don't know of a place that carries citric acid.
havealight101
Norski
If you blow through the joint, you don't have to worry about nasty fumes. I've done this with ISO to get some nasties out with the turbulance of the frit.
Soflo
Only birdshit and fools
After I'm done with my session, I usually fill it with iso past the frit, and just leave it until the next session.
Then warm water rinse before the next session.
Roger D
Vapor Wizard
I get mine from greenweez.com (EU-FR), along with the percarbonate, bicarbonate and other stuff. Its often sold as ecologic cleaning products.
t-dub
Vapor Sloth
If you use hydrogen peroxide (food grade) you don't have to worry about the fumes either . . .
Roger D
Vapor Wizard
I don't think you can swallow it after like it is that safe 
I always apply principle of precaution to its max. I would at least use a tubing to blow and never breathe through it !
I have been using peroxide based products (percarbonate) they are efficient. I can confirm that they don't smell at all. For me that is not enough to feel safe so I open windows when I use them. Especially when I use them in boiling water to clean my stainless bowls.
Safe products are safe when you use them regarding the safety rules. Never get in contact.
Also beware of ISO fumes. Never breathe any of that poison. Outdoor or at least large windows open.
BTW I think I faded the labels using theses peroxide based products on the DG. Black is a bit grey. Now I'm really cautious not to spill any on the outside of the piece.
I always apply principle of precaution to its max. I would at least use a tubing to blow and never breathe through it !
I have been using peroxide based products (percarbonate) they are efficient. I can confirm that they don't smell at all. For me that is not enough to feel safe so I open windows when I use them. Especially when I use them in boiling water to clean my stainless bowls.
Safe products are safe when you use them regarding the safety rules. Never get in contact.
Also beware of ISO fumes. Never breathe any of that poison. Outdoor or at least large windows open.
BTW I think I faded the labels using theses peroxide based products on the DG. Black is a bit grey. Now I'm really cautious not to spill any on the outside of the piece.
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
how big are your lungs?
good point
I think I could handle the bigger one, I'm over 6 feet tall and never had problems clearing those big old bongs in my combustion days.
but are these extra 3 inches that much of a difference, when it comes to clearing I mean?
Puffers
Micro-Climate Mastermind
good point
I think I could handle the bigger one, I'm over 6 feet tall and never had problems clearing those big old bongs in my combustion days.
but are these extra 3 inches that much of a difference, when it comes to clearing I mean?
Probably not for your lung capactity these tubes don't have a huge amount of volume. I have the 18" and its a lower volume piece then my Lev Lattice bubbler is. I don't think you can go wrong with either IMO
ictus
Well-Known Member
Been using my DG for 3 weeks now and I love the thing. It's definitely my favorite piece for any application minus oil. I love to smoke with it but I rarely smoke. I use it with my VXL Cloud daily and it is simply incredible. Seems like they were meant to be used together. I also find that the main frit stays pretty clean with vaping, the small pre-frit takes the brunt of the impact.
I also found my own technique for cleaning the DG from any horrible state to like new in only a few minutes. It only requires about 1 - 2ml of d-limonene. Here is what I do:
1)Add water to just above the frit (warm is better but it doesnt matter, thats how well this works).
2) Add 1-2ml of d-limonene to the water.. THROUGH THE MOUTHPIECE! Do not add it through the slide stem part... because you will be putting your mouth there and it will be nasty.
3) Put your mouth on the slide joint and give it a good 5-second blow. Because d-limonene won't mix with water at all, it will sit on the suface and be thoroughly agitated by the bubbling.
The first time you do it, the bubbling will be tame and not go that high.
4) Now do another 5-10 second blow. Each time you do it, the bubbles will stack a bit higher because there will be more tar/THC dissolved into the limonene making it thicker. The excellent diffusion also means excellent cleaning action!! Do it until clean. Best to point the mouthpiece over a sink, since you want to stack the limonene bubbles as high as the "gunk" is. I place my hand over the top just as a precaution so I don't have limonene rain coming down on me one time
After only 5 or so blows through the slide joint, the piece should be basically clean. The limonene will now be orange or yellow but still sitting on the surface of the water.
5) At this point you can rinse with lots of warm water to get out the orange smell, or you can use a small amount of alcohol which will get rid of it much faster. Be smart about dumping the limonene, don't try to force it down through the frit to dump it, pour out the way it came in, and rinse water flowing that same direction at first, then it's ok to switch and force water down the frit and OUT the slide joint.
This is much faster and more effective than just using alcohol, and lets you use FAR less chemicals. A bottle of limonene should last years.
I also found my own technique for cleaning the DG from any horrible state to like new in only a few minutes. It only requires about 1 - 2ml of d-limonene. Here is what I do:
1)Add water to just above the frit (warm is better but it doesnt matter, thats how well this works).
2) Add 1-2ml of d-limonene to the water.. THROUGH THE MOUTHPIECE! Do not add it through the slide stem part... because you will be putting your mouth there and it will be nasty.
3) Put your mouth on the slide joint and give it a good 5-second blow. Because d-limonene won't mix with water at all, it will sit on the suface and be thoroughly agitated by the bubbling.
The first time you do it, the bubbling will be tame and not go that high.
4) Now do another 5-10 second blow. Each time you do it, the bubbles will stack a bit higher because there will be more tar/THC dissolved into the limonene making it thicker. The excellent diffusion also means excellent cleaning action!! Do it until clean. Best to point the mouthpiece over a sink, since you want to stack the limonene bubbles as high as the "gunk" is. I place my hand over the top just as a precaution so I don't have limonene rain coming down on me one time
After only 5 or so blows through the slide joint, the piece should be basically clean. The limonene will now be orange or yellow but still sitting on the surface of the water.
5) At this point you can rinse with lots of warm water to get out the orange smell, or you can use a small amount of alcohol which will get rid of it much faster. Be smart about dumping the limonene, don't try to force it down through the frit to dump it, pour out the way it came in, and rinse water flowing that same direction at first, then it's ok to switch and force water down the frit and OUT the slide joint.
This is much faster and more effective than just using alcohol, and lets you use FAR less chemicals. A bottle of limonene should last years.
VapeNStone
Mark
same for me. I love dabs through it but usually only about 6 of them before it starts to get clogged. Then you want to clean it otherwise it just steals half your dab lol.Great review! Glad you are liking your DG. I love oil in my rooster, just kinda sucks after heavy dabbing for a couple of hours - the fritted disk gets too clogged for my liking. But a quick hot water rinse gets rid of that.I'll give that cleaning method a try!
VapeNStone
Mark
I realized I have been filling the water way to high for dabs. I poured some in and then poured it all out just leaving a very tiny bit left in the fritt. This has been working swimmingly!!! And you don't have to clean it as often!!! Here's a vid of my gf hitting it.
ictus
Well-Known Member
I have never hit mine completely dry, but I almost did one time. I emptied it out and forgot to refill it and proceeded to take a hit.
I didn't even notice the water was missing because there was still enough left in the frit for a small amount of diffusion and nice fuzzy sound. Definitely more taste that way.
I question the claim that it will need less cleaning this way. If anything I'd assume the opposite, since there is less thermal mass before the frit when its dry, meaning the vapor will hit the frit at higher temps, meaning it cools faster on contact encouraging more condensation. But I'm not arguing with your results just following my intuition.
The pre-frit is never in water yet it always gets the dirtiest. In fact I found that its almost impossible to get them back to pure-white. I can get them close only after soaking in warm ISO for several hours. A whole weekend in cold iso didn't do much though. Torching the frit is probably the worst way... makes them cloudy and doesn't get the brown color out... more locks it in. I won't try that again
I didn't even notice the water was missing because there was still enough left in the frit for a small amount of diffusion and nice fuzzy sound. Definitely more taste that way.
I question the claim that it will need less cleaning this way. If anything I'd assume the opposite, since there is less thermal mass before the frit when its dry, meaning the vapor will hit the frit at higher temps, meaning it cools faster on contact encouraging more condensation. But I'm not arguing with your results just following my intuition.
The pre-frit is never in water yet it always gets the dirtiest. In fact I found that its almost impossible to get them back to pure-white. I can get them close only after soaking in warm ISO for several hours. A whole weekend in cold iso didn't do much though. Torching the frit is probably the worst way... makes them cloudy and doesn't get the brown color out... more locks it in. I won't try that again