willieR

Been here since 2009
I've thought about that but that would be tricky as hell. The mouthpiece offers a lot of insulation to the heating and so to be fair, it would need to be in place when measuring.

So I imagine you'd have to insert a thin probe through the mouthpiece port all the way to the bottom of the pin where the heat is highest
 
willieR,

MDBudz

Well-Known Member
you could use an infrared thermometer to determine the temp. They use a laser pointer to aim and take temperature w/o having to be in contact with the unit. theoretically you could aim it down the mouthpiece and take a reading thru it.
 
MDBudz,

Homes

Well-Known Member
Does anyone have any information or suggestions on how to remove the broken plastic inside an herb chamber due to a defective mouthpiece?
 
Homes,

Ben

Well-Known Member
Homes said:
Does anyone have any information or suggestions on how to remove the broken plastic inside an herb chamber due to a defective mouthpiece?
yes...previous page ; post #1236 :ninja:
 
Ben,

Homes

Well-Known Member
Ben said:
Homes said:
Does anyone have any information or suggestions on how to remove the broken plastic inside an herb chamber due to a defective mouthpiece?
yes...previous page ; post #1236 :ninja:
Oh thanks! Just tried that out and it came right off. :)
 
Homes,

chucku

Charles Urbane
So far I have been lucky and my stem has not broken but if the break is clean I have an idea of how to fix it. Years ago I made a similar repair to the plastic coolant return fitting on the radiator of my VW Fox. What I did was get a small piece of thin wall copper tubing that snugly fit inside to join both broken pieces. Then I applied a high temp epoxy (JB Weld) to the two broken pieces and let cure for an hour. That repair held up for at least 2 years until I finally had to replace the radiator. JB Weld definitely stands up to the temperatures, I used it also to repair a Weber Grill. It takes some time and finesse but the entire process costs about $5.00 in parts.
 
chucku,

shotgunwilly

Well-Known Member
hey chucku,
when mine initially broke, i repaired it with a collar of high temp epoxy around the outside top of the threads... it held for quite a while... although i didnt put a inner sleeve... its a pretty small hole already and i feared that if i put anything else i would implode my head trying to draw thru it...lol...
 
shotgunwilly,

Lo

Combustion free since '09
Ok... Dumb question I know... Apologize in advance. Where do I purchase a cork. I know I'm looking for size 4 but... Is this a hardware store item, craft store item... Hell I don't even drink wine and have never seen corks for sale. Duh! I bought an extra bowl and was planning to do the cork thing :) I am not sure where to buy the darn corks. If only I had a whino friend...

Man, I gotta say I love my Iiolites. I worry about them, bought 2 cuz I worried about breakdowns. Have taken on a few road trips now and driving with it is a charm. I load both of them so I can go awhile between stops ;)
 
Lo,

chucku

Charles Urbane
shotgun,

Assuming the break is clean, take one of the broken pieces to your local hardware store to get the right size piece of tubing. You really need to just fit it so there is a little friction with the plastic on the outside. This will help to keep everything joined together when applying the epoxy and provide additional strength once repaired. The tubing does not need to be thick at all since its primary purpose is to align the plastic pieces to be joined. If I recall correctly what I used was for a gas fitting for a thermocouple. If you can find something to fit you should still be able to run a pipe cleaner through it once assembled.
 
chucku,

macbill

Oh No! Mr macbill!!
Staff member
lo said:
Where do I purchase a cork. I know I'm looking for size 4 but... Is this a hardware store item, craft store item...
I bought a pack online because I could not think of where to go. I figured postage and handling covers the gallon or two of gas I'd use seeking them. I would suspect a craft store would have them, now that you mention it. Fishing stores.... D? Don't foget to trim about 3 dimes width of the narrow portion of the standardized # 4 cork, as it gives you maximized chamber space for herb while still securing your load.

Take just the metal chamber insert when you shop: I'm sure many many corks will work, just need some trimming. Single sided razor blades or a sharp knife works great.
 
macbill,

Lo

Combustion free since '09
I just got a new one. No bottom screen and non-removeable pin is only difference I see.. Besides the melty mouthpieces of course!!

Thanks for cork info... I'm ready to shave one soon as I find it. I might try craft store before ordering... Thought maybe you picked them up locally ;)
 
Lo,

chucku

Charles Urbane
chucku,

shotgunwilly

Well-Known Member
in the mean time, (while you are waiting for your corks) you can either roll a fatty joint, or roll a joint with individual loads, twisted in between like sausage links... i did this for a concert and it worked great... first off, the sausage link works fantastic in the dark when its hard to see how much is going in the bowl, just tear off the end and roll it a little between your fingers and it comes right out... and with the individual twisted sections, you dont get any wasted herb spilling out and it a perfect size load for the bowl since its pre measured... also, lately ive been doing all my loading into the bottom section, (pin side) you have to clean it with a pin afterwards because the herb gets stuck around the bottom nut section on the removable pin, but other than that, i find its finishing a bowl in roughly 10 min with good vapor and easier draws.... also, i was wondering, since the iolite folks also make industrial tools, ie. soldering irons, etc., is there the possibility the size of the pin could be interchanged with a solder iron tip? what im thinking is hammering one out to create more surface area, (ideally like a 4 bladed broadhead arrow, but if nothing else, at least flat) and i figure it would contact more material that way, which would in turn create more vapor, that is, if the thermostat is hooked to the pin, insuring its temp...willieR, when you took it apart, did you see what the thermostat was hooked up to?
 
shotgunwilly,

lime_joe

Well-Known Member
I'm starting to enjoy my iolite more and more every day. I've had it for about 5 days, and just today I learned how to pull the vapors the right way. It's a huge difference for me. Way more clouds and my high is alot better. Now I just need to figure out how to fill the iolite with butane better....I haven't modded it yet either.
 
lime_joe,

willieR

Been here since 2009
shotgunwilly said:
... also, lately ive been doing all my loading into the bottom section, (pin side) you have to clean it with a pin afterwards because the herb gets stuck around the bottom nut section on the removable pin, but other than that, i find its finishing a bowl in roughly 10 min with good vapor and easier draws....

Agree. I don't look to clean so much around that nut, but having removed the screen also, I find a better vape.



also, i was wondering, since the iolite folks also make industrial tools, ie. soldering irons, etc., is there the possibility the size of the pin could be interchanged with a solder iron tip? what im thinking is hammering one out to create more surface area, (ideally like a 4 bladed broadhead arrow, but if nothing else, at least flat) and i figure it would contact more material that way, which would in turn create more vapor, that is, if the thermostat is hooked to the pin, insuring its temp...willieR, when you took it apart, did you see what the thermostat was hooked up to?
First, the idea of a better penetrating heat is an excellent idea. I was thinking along the same lines. Since we have old i-inhales, we could go and have something made. Maybe from a more conductive metal. Copper's kinda soft, but maybe brass.

I can take another look at the connections. It's all quite elegantly simple and functional in there.
 
willieR,

willieR

Been here since 2009
Lime_joe I think you're right on. This thing requires a lot more finesse to optimize the fun. Pack it wrong and much less efficient vaping. Pack it right and almost as much vape as a bowl.
 
willieR,

SpiralArchitect

? & beyond
Alright, so I've owned my Iolite for some time now.... I took it on vacation and used it extensively (vaped over 2 ounces out of the thing before a clean) for a few months.

I used nothing but refined butane, avoiding cheap crap with impurities (usually I'd use King, Colibri, Power 5x, or at the very least, Neon). The Iolite craps out on me and I can't get it to ignite no matter what.... I've purged the tank, refilled her and tried to no avail.

I still get the blue piezo ignition light, I just can't get it to catch. I had problems with it before, but I haven't gotten the Iolite to heat up in over a month now and I'm thinking the unit is toast despite my best efforts.

Any insight on what the problem might be or the best steps to take up with the Iolite company in getting my unit replaced ASAP? (A shame it will have to be shipped all the way to Ireland, according to our last correspondence).

Thanks.
 
SpiralArchitect,

305mia

Well-Known Member
hey guys i recently bought an iolite and it wont ignite or turn red like it use to when i try n spark it....i tried removing all the butane adding more waiting 5mins but it just wont start anyone had similar problems or know what i should do its been alittle over a month since i got it
 
305mia,

305mia

Well-Known Member
SpiralArchitect said:
Alright, so I've owned my Iolite for some time now.... I took it on vacation and used it extensively (vaped over 2 ounces out of the thing before a clean) for a few months.

I used nothing but refined butane, avoiding cheap crap with impurities (usually I'd use King, Colibri, Power 5x, or at the very least, Neon). The Iolite craps out on me and I can't get it to ignite no matter what.... I've purged the tank, refilled her and tried to no avail.

I still get the blue piezo ignition light, I just can't get it to catch. I had problems with it before, but I haven't gotten the Iolite to heat up in over a month now and I'm thinking the unit is toast despite my best efforts.

Any insight on what the problem might be or the best steps to take up with the Iolite company in getting my unit replaced ASAP? (A shame it will have to be shipped all the way to Ireland, according to our last correspondence).

Thanks.
dude sorry i already posted but im having the same problems except ive only had it 6 weeks
 
305mia,
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