Discontinued Thermovape Cera
- Thread starter SameOldTim
- Start date
darkrom
Great Scott!
I keep trying to explain the cera to some of my buddies (they think the pax is better because it is easier) but the best description I can give is to let that sucker glow red in the heater core, give it a few more seconds of glowing red. Then convince the heat to rise slowly into your bowl. The key IMO is realizing that you are inhaling to draw the heat, not suck the already made vapor out of the bowl.
OF
Well-Known Member
Well my opinion thinks your opinion is brilliant! So there......
I guess we showed all those guys who thought it was a waste of time keeping you around, eighwhat?
That's exactly it, DR, in a nutshell. Controlling the heat, not getting a hit. That part comes a tiny bit later.... Very well put.
Thanks.
OF
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
as to the EO core, i am only getting air flow thru the set screw holes. if i cover them i have no air flow. is this normal?
as to the nibbler, yea, the pic has no rings on. i use the lowest one and my nibbler fits. am hoping it is creating a mild heat buffer. also plug the mp when removing to stop splashback into cart.
aj0125
Well-Known Member
Enjoying, but still trying to really get the 'feel' for Cera LL. I was reading the vaporpedia entry on using Cera LL and was wondering: Once you successfully complete step 2 and are getting vapor, On step 3 does slow inhale=thicker vapor or does faster inhale=thicker vapor? Or is that simplifying it too much? I thought that pulling the hot air through faster might mean more hot air to the flowers, but maybe it doesn't give the hot air as much 'snuggle time' with the flowers to produce enough vapor?
nopartofme
Over the falls, in a barrel
You don't have to worry about snuggle time, just whether the air is hot or not. If you really try and force air through it you can cool down the heating coil and end up with not enough heat. I found that you can see this if you start with a cold empty LL core, hold down the button and wait for the glow, then pull super hard through the core without the MP on or anything. If you pull really hard and then look back, you can see the core is dimmer and then returns to full glow. Don't let this test go on too long though, you'll burn your lips of course…
OF
Well-Known Member
I'm having trouble linking what you're doing at the moment and normal, but that aside if you're not getting air with the holes plugged you're overfilled and/or plugging the vents. Normally you vent in just above the threaded part, under the skirt. Air that gets in past the screws then up the gap between the heater sleeve and the body to make it to the vapor path is normally insignificant relative to that I think.
Maybe. I'm still working on that normal idea......
Great question, not an easy answer in absolute terms. The idea of step 2 is to get the lot right up to the magic temperature so the next little bit of heat transferred in is going to push some lucky part over the edge into vapor and ultimately the happy owner. Not making anything any hotter, using the energy to boil off the good stuff. At that point it's a lot like a pan of boiling water in there, turn up the fire more boiling happens but the temperature doesn't really go up much at all.
If you've managed heat right when you hit the end of step 2 and get a solid test puff, you should be there. Having taken the better part of minute getting there, the zirconia chamber is up to speed with the load insde it. All the inner surfaces of the oven (and everything between) having rocketed up to just under 400F to make that puff happen thick and easy. Honk on it if you want, the more hot air in, the more vapor can be made. Sip if that's the plan. Stuff it in the WT and have a go. Just don't let it cool off too much (or it's back to step 2 looking for a new test puff).
There's a limit of course, several things like running out of THC in the load can spoil the fun. As can having the core cool off too much. To a certain point the ceramic is a great refractory material. You can get if very hot and it's properties don't change much. In practice the core mass gets to the stable state you see watching it. At that point it's not getting any hotter, the extra heat energy is instead now heating more and more of the body nearby the hottest part, the heat is spreading. Slowly, because it's a good insulator, but that just means the center is hotter so it transfers more heat outward and so on. We can draw a fair bit out of the core with drafting without doing much but slow the heat buildup in the body some. This savings is added to the power delivered from the battery to keep the core hotter longer in the hit. This stuff was all scaled carefully, of course. Heater power against load size against insulation against heating speed and so on into the night.
We're given a range of control on this with timing, battery charge, cutting power, draw speed and so on but that control is limited in scope for the obvious reasons.
All in all a pretty well thought out machine I think? By all means try different techniques, it's pretty hard to go too far wrong. Please don't take that as a challenge? You'll find something you'll like, or several techniques. That you shoud take as a challenge.....
Good luck with it.
Sounds like good advice to me. I'll take your word for it, I chickened out and used the hose trick.....
Good observation.
OF
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
3serieSensi
Well-Known Member
Would something akin to the iolite's triple-pointed insert help the Cera at all? Like a ceramic star to maximize surface area and air or am i way off?
I'm thinking about getting one, site says 1 week delay in shipping, doesn't sound bad.
I am worried there are still hiccups and something could go wrong, so I'll be reading up on this thread asap. I think I have the cash, and it seems Legit. No aluminum in this, right or wrong?
I'm thinking about getting one, site says 1 week delay in shipping, doesn't sound bad.
I am worried there are still hiccups and something could go wrong, so I'll be reading up on this thread asap. I think I have the cash, and it seems Legit. No aluminum in this, right or wrong?
Rocco
Well-Known Member
First off I apologize if I am trailing off subject.. but
I found some batteries on ebay heres the LINK I was so stoked that I found some since the Amazon orders got eaten up quick. But then as I was placing a battery I already own on the charger and then noticed that mine are made in Japan.. as I understand they are better at regulating good from bad cells? Anyways the ones I ordered are made in China.
So my point or question is... are these batteries unsafe since they are made in China? The Ebay seller said they have satisfaction garunteed so im more worried about the safety rather than getting my money back if they blow up or are duds.
scratch that, they are made in Japan,just being shipped from China,so go at em! same price as Amazon, free shipping..heres the link
scratch that, they are made in Japan,just being shipped from China,so go at em! same price as Amazon, free shipping..heres the link
I purchased some last night. The seller is from China but the batteries look legit and Seller has good feedback. Zoom the picture and the label, says made in Japan. He has other Panasonic batteries more on par price wise. Hoping these are priced down because they are discontinued..?
Fingers crossed.
aj0125
Well-Known Member
The batteries everyone is talking about are back in stock on amazon. I just ordered four more, bringing me up to twelve, that should last for a little while. Gotta love Prime shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AKQQ990/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AKQQ990/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
YeeeBuddy
Well-Known Member
Nice I paid 3 bucks more than that, oh well. In other news cera should be at my front door when I wake up, hope i didnt jinx myself by saying that. Gonna be a good day off, finally gonna get to try the venom OG shatter I loaded into the EO cart but never got to hit, this is my first time trying some really high quality EO through it(besides the .5 of PG to break it in).
darkrom
Great Scott!
Actually they will likely charge much faster when they are due to be replaced. They will charge but their capacity will be reduced and you will notice a shorter life span.
And pipes I know you are way above my head with knowledge, but just because the labels say made in Japan doesn't mean much when Chinese sellers can print new labels. You know the drill. Chances are its legit, and that's what PayPal dispute is for anyway, just throwing out my advice on the subject. All too many times I've ordered things in China with wonderful labels slapped on garbage. Not always though. No harm in trying your luck.
I've posted this before, but it bears repeating. These batteries are a perfect target for counterfeiters. They've gone out of production but they're still sought after. I will go so far as to predict sightings of counterfeits in the near future. Perhaps not here, but certainly over at candlepowerforums.
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
is all the oil below the ceramic when you hit it? if not, then you haven't really "filled it" yet. is
your EO stainless or ti?
Sonics420
Well-Known Member
I do also but its very easy to scrape up and dab back into the Cera, so it never feels wasted to me. But like Bob said you have to get it below the ceramic, if I took my time I can make it really clean.
I usually just take my buds and wipe up the splashed oil too
OF
Well-Known Member
Listen to the man, guys. This time he knows what he's talking about......
If you're splattering it's because you have cold oil on a hot heater or other surface. If the concentrated is properly loaded it's absorbed into the sponge like pores in the reservoir before the assembly is heated up to vaping temperature.
Even concentrates loaded with water should not be able to do any more than splatter about in the pore they're trapped in until they become vapor.
Try melting .3 to .5 grams over empty weight well in and try again, I bet it works fine......
Bob is wise.
OF
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
talking about know what he's talking about (cringe)! was actually looking for your instructions on filling to cut and paste from vaporpedia, but it isn't loading for me, anyone else having that problem?
Been having the same problem since yesterday with vaporpedia.
OF
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a great chance to start a rumor..... Who shall we say caused it? Hacked by LulzSec? George Bush? The Tea Party? Maybe they forgot to pay the bill?
I think the bit Bob was looking for is:
Now to loading. If your concentrate is 'thin' and flows very freely you probably don't need to preheat, but preheating helps in all cases. Just run the core for 15 seconds or so until the body starts to get warm (or even hot) to the touch. Then add half a gram (no more is recommended until you get experience with that concentrate). In general, this is about the volume of the upper cavity. If it's wax, pack it in. Otherwise scoop some in and let it melt down. You may want to hit the heat for a dozen seconds or so to speed things along. Some of the more solid waxes, glasses, shatters and the like can take fiddling to get them melted in without having vapor build up spit them out again.
The key is, I think, to use enough heat to get it melted in well but not enough to make vapor until that job is completely done. You want the top surface of the ceramic plate to look like a soggy sponge, looking wet more than dry, but clearly a sponge with partially filled holes, not a puddle of goods.
Then it's going to be the concentrate nearest the surface that's the hottest so it will be the first to go, not the stuff underneath.
OF
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
yea, same as before, i might be getting a miniscule amnt from elsewhere, but it's mostly thru the 4 screw holes, i can even see it puff out when i pause between milkings.