Discontinued Thermovape Cera

Cheerful Dub

Spaced Station
For what it's worth, might want to be mindful of rattling the EO core around too much while you boil/soak it. I know another user a long while back had his ceramic top plate fall out during this process. During my first cleaning the top ceramic wiggled loose and flopped out in my sink and was forever lost down the drain with no hopes of reinsertion! As soon as I can put it down for more than like three hours I'll send it back in for repair :lol:
 

hektik8625

Well-Known Member
For what it's worth, might want to be mindful of rattling the EO core around too much while you boil/soak it. I know another user a long while back had his ceramic top plate fall out during this process. During my first cleaning the top ceramic wiggled loose and flopped out in my sink and was forever lost down the drain with no hopes of reinsertion! As soon as I can put it down for more than like three hours I'll send it back in for repair :lol:
How's it working without it? Do u have a pic of the inside ? Maybe while on would be cool.... Eye candy
 
hektik8625,

OF

Well-Known Member
My new EO cart weighed 42.19 grams when new. After cleaning and drying it weighs 42.32 grams. Does this seem average? Or can I get it cleaner?

That seems to match my experience (in fact I had a little more residual), I assumed it was not a problem (doesn't seem to be) and still used the new weight. On the original core where I watched this carefully it seemed to stay about the same, sometimes a little more sometimes a little less. That is it didn't seem to build up over time which was my concern so I stopped tracking it. I hope that wasn't a mistake.

My advice is it's normal, enjoy the Cera.

During my first cleaning the top ceramic wiggled loose and flopped out in my sink and was forever lost down the drain with no hopes of reinsertion! As soon as I can put it down for more than like three hours I'll send it back in for repair :lol:

Wow! I wonder how? Maybe it cracked somehow?

I think it's neat that Cear can still soldier on not 'running on all four' (or in this case, running on four (rings) but not 5 (with the plate)). The plate is, of course, the most productive part to boot. I can get your not wanting to put it down though.....Tim and the guy will be happy to rebuild it (for free of course I'm sure) when you finally can.

Maybe this is a sign from above you need another core? I like having a spare around with a different strain and to use in my evil experiments with garbage. I too don't want to be without the Cera and oil cart handy. Like the other locals I have the option of taking the parts back to the shop and watching the show while stuff is worked on of course, but I fully understand where you are. So will TV I'm sure I bet it's 'turned around' lighting fast.

Even lame, Cera is the best horse in the stable.

OF
 

JoeKickass

Well-Known Member
Wow! I wonder how? Maybe it cracked somehow?
How secure are the top plates in your eo cores OF?

Mine is glued when it has wax, but when it was new or when I run it completely empty I notice it is only secured at the ends. Like a rod held captive by oversized caps, it wiggles and rotates almost a complete 360 degrees!

I notice one side is flat though so I'm guessing there's a performance or some kind of advantage to trying keep it the way they send it to you with the flat side on top?
 
JoeKickass,
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OF

Well-Known Member
How secure are the top plates in your eo cores OF?

Mine is glued when it has wax, but when it was new or when I run it completely empty I notice it is only secured at the ends. Like a rod held captive by oversized caps, it wiggles and rotates almost a complete 360 degrees!

I notice one side is flat though so I'm guessing there's a performance or some kind of advantage to trying keep it the way they send it to you with the flat side on top?

It's supposed to be loose so it doesn't break with temperature changes. It's sides are cut away (two flats) so there's a vent past it for vapor from below. Normally it's trapped by the lip on the inside of the bore it sits in and the core below.

OF
 

SameOldTim

Previously Known as 'ThermoCoreTim'
Manufacturer
We have a big batch of SS and Ti at the welders, the technique had to be revised. Out of the last batch about 40% didnt pass our QC. This next one should be significantly better now that we were able to exactly specify our tolerances. All in all its looking good!

Cheers,
Tim
 

toros23

Well-Known Member
We have a big batch of SS and Ti at the welders, the technique had to be revised. Out of the last batch about 40% didnt pass our QC. This next one should be significantly better now that we were able to exactly specify our tolerances. All in all its looking good!

Cheers,
Tim

Hey Tim - So far so good over here, thanks for the prompt service!
 

darkrom

Great Scott!
We have a big batch of SS and Ti at the welders, the technique had to be revised. Out of the last batch about 40% didnt pass our QC. This next one should be significantly better now that we were able to exactly specify our tolerances. All in all its looking good!

Cheers,
Tim


The only manufacturer who admits to 40% failing QC, I view that as a good thing! Tinker, Improve, Advance.
 

aj0125

Well-Known Member
We have a big batch of SS and Ti at the welders, the technique had to be revised. Out of the last batch about 40% didnt pass our QC. This next one should be significantly better now that we were able to exactly specify our tolerances. All in all its looking good!

Cheers,
Tim


The wait has been killing me, but it will be well worth it to have an optimum Cera.
 

coffinoff

Well-Known Member
For what it's worth, might want to be mindful of rattling the EO core around too much while you boil/soak it. I know another user a long while back had his ceramic top plate fall out during this process. During my first cleaning the top ceramic wiggled loose and flopped out in my sink and was forever lost down the drain with no hopes of reinsertion! As soon as I can put it down for more than like three hours I'll send it back in for repair :lol:
I had a similar thing happen with the DART. Twice. Watched a little piece slide down the drain and everything. I still haven't sent it back for repair either, heh. I'm definitely babying the new EO core and I'll be watching it like a hawk when I eventually end up boiling it out.
 
coffinoff,
We have a big batch of SS and Ti at the welders, the technique had to be revised. Out of the last batch about 40% didnt pass our QC. This next one should be significantly better now that we were able to exactly specify our tolerances. All in all its looking good!

Cheers,
Tim

Word.

Although it's been agonizing checking my inbox every hour to see if I received a shipping confirmation, in the big scheme of things I'd rather endure another week of torture rather than receiving my Cera, falling in love with her, finding something wrong, then sending her back, starting the shitty waiting game all over again.

Thanks for the update, Tim! :tup:
 
UpUpandAway,
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aj0125

Well-Known Member
Word.

Although it's been agonizing checking my inbox every hour to see if I received a shipping confirmation, in the big scheme of things I'd rather endure another week of torture rather than receiving my Cera, falling in love with her, finding something wrong, then sending her back, starting the shitty waiting game all over again.

Thanks for the update, Tim! :tup:


My thoughts exactly. I only ordered a week ago yet I check my inbox every few hours hoping for the golden ticket to be in my inbox, like most good things in life it will be well worth the wait.
 
aj0125,

JoeKickass

Well-Known Member
at the welders...
You use some safe form of welding like friction welding right?




On another note, I just got some "Cera candy"!
JDcNxJs.jpg



Anyone in the bay area, I totally recommend Revolution HC in San Jose:
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Why do I love Revolution? Those six half-grams (I combined to 3 grams for the pics) are only $70 on Thursdays! (Buy 2g get 1g free day, and all their wax is the same $17.50 for a half gram so pick the best strain(s) you can find ;))


That's 3 grams for $73 ($24.33 a gram) I've looked and I can't beat that anywhere!
ArqV7F6.jpg


"It's a good thing" :D
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VoqBi6h.jpg
 

SameOldTim

Previously Known as 'ThermoCoreTim'
Manufacturer
You use some safe form of welding like friction welding right?




On another note, I just got some "Cera candy"!



Anyone in the bay area, I totally recommend Revolution HC in San Jose:



Why do I love Revolution? Those six half-grams (I combined to 3 grams for the pics) are only $70 on Thursdays! (Buy 2g get 1g free day, and all their wax is the same $17.50 for a half gram so pick the best strain(s) you can find ;))


That's 3 grams for $73 ($24.33 a gram) I've looked and I can't beat that anywhere!

"It's a good thing" :D

Of coarse! Laser or resistance welding. Even though its just in the body and completely out of the air flow.

mod note: When using the quote feature please don’t quote more than is necessary. Edited to remove images.
 

Organica

Well-Known Member
MY CERA IS HERE.

(Sorry, terrible internet etiquette to start out yelling. I'm just SO F'N EXCITED!!!)

This is my first post here, although it was largely this forum and ones like it that got me to get my trusty little MFLB a few years ago.

I'm headed to Denver in the morning, for the Cannabis Cup. Is anybody from here going that wants to instruct me in the fine art of the EO cart?

Seriously, PM me. I promise a delicious IPA (India Pale Ale) to the person who can educate me in the use of my delightful new vape.

Also, every single person I have showed this to (pretty much every green friendly person I know, by this point in the day) have remarked on how solid and heavy it is. I will never need another vape ever.

Also, it totally looks like a dildo. Which is why I have no problem putting it in my bag and taking it through airport security. Say what you will about the form factor, but I personally consider it a feature. Heck yeah I was kissing my dildo in the bathroom. We're very close.
 

Organica

Well-Known Member
Wow. This thing gets hot when using the LL cart. Seriously hot. I may need to go get a mouthpiece.

But it's all ok, because I'm very pleasantly blazed. Wow.

Wow.

My friend is on my bed, face down, going 'I think it works. I'm kind of high.' and laughing hysterically into my blanket.

Wow.

It works.

Carry on.
 

YeeeBuddy

Well-Known Member
Yea the thermal cap really helps for LL sessions, EO you dont really need it as much because your not sitting on the power for minutes at a time. Here this helps get an idea on how the EO cart works and how to load.

Cera “Oil Cart” Usage

The Cera Oil Cart is not only expanded in size from the Revolution/DART system but the geometry between the heater and the ceramic reservoir has been optimized. Users familiar with Revolution/DART will find a lot in common, but also some differences in performance and usage.

If you look down into the cart you'll see the ceramic top plate that makes up the floor of the upper chamber. There should be gaps on the side to let the vapor from below get past it. Note it's porous, looking something like a dry sponge. In use the concentrate will be absorbed into that material like water into a dish sponge. The heater will evaporate it from there. Below the plate are four rings of the same material in a stack, they too absorb the concentrate when it's loaded. Up the center runs the heater, basically all the reservoir material is 'at the ideal distance' from the heater (unlike before) so it all comes up to temperature at once. This combined with the increase in reservoir volume makes for heavy hits on demand and lots of them between reloads. Also included in the new design is space behind the rings so overfilled oil (within reason) has a place to be held until it can be used, rather than leaking out the bottom.

Former Revolution/DART users will recognize (and appreciate) these changes.

Now to loading. If your concentrate is 'thin' and flows very freely you probably don't need to preheat, but preheating helps in all cases. Just run the core for 15 seconds or so until the body starts to get warm (or even hot) to the touch. Then add half a gram (no more is recommended until you get experience with that concentrate). In general, this is about the volume of the upper cavity. If it's wax, pack it in. Otherwise scoop some in and let it melt down. You may want to hit the heat for a dozen seconds or so to speed things along. Some of the more solid waxes, glasses, shatters and the like can take fiddling to get them melted in without having vapor build up spit them out again.

Once the cavity clears and the concentrate is in the lower chamber fit the mouthpiece of your choice (drip tip, Pure or True Flow or Cera cap and mouthpiece) and turn the heat on. Some concentrates make noise heating up, some don't, but in 20 or so seconds (from warm) you should be getting lots of vapor starting to happen. This will build over the next minute or two as the full cartridge comes up to temperature. Hit it as you wish. Most users will want to power down between hits, others will find it works better for them to leave power on for a few hits then shut it down (typically for a longer time) before resuming. You should experiment. Unlike convection systems, vapor is being produced whether you draw or not. If you don't draw it out, it condenses again inside but over time this will degrade the taste ('cook') your oil and is to be avoided. Don't let it idle for long periods with power on.

When your session is over for the time being, just set it down and let it cool. There should be no need to keep it upright (or any other position) until cool. The design is very resistant to leaks and 'plugging' (provided it's not overfilled). When the action slows down, as always consider your battery charge first. Assuming it's low concentrate and adding more can leave you overfilled with a still dying battery....hardly progress. Battery life will be quite long (over half an hour of 'on time' typically) so it's easy to forget about it....but don't. If you overfill you're going to waste concentrate and time correcting it. So try your charged battery before you reach for more concentrate.


OF
 

coffinoff

Well-Known Member
Damn, Joe. West coast prices are nutty. I get pretty similar stuff but at about twice the price.
 
coffinoff,

JoeKickass

Well-Known Member
Damn, Joe. West coast prices are nutty. I get pretty similar stuff but at about twice the price.
Yeah but it's really just that one revolution place, all the really popular dispenseries in the bay area are $50 a gram and it's tough to find lower than $35. I'm sure there are other little hole in the wall places/diamonds in the rough, so I think it's good to spread the word when you find ones that care more about people than profit :peace:
 

aj0125

Well-Known Member
I am cleaning my carts less and less as I get to know Cera. I don't believe the Cera requires much cleaning for great daily performance — especially when compared to about any other vape. I love how low maintenance this thing is.

Really looking forward to this aspect. After every bowl I do a quick panic clean of my Pax trying to avoid the famous temp light issues others experience. It probably doesn't need to be cleaned after every bowl but I am just too scared to let anything build up. Not having to worry about that will definitely save me some anxiety.
 
aj0125,

amilehigh

Well-Known Member
I'd make a couple changes. First boil it, it needs to be full temperature. Water vapor (steam) has to form inside the water. It doesn't have to be a rolling boil (that eats up the water fast but doesn't get hotter than 212F), a heavy simmer where only a few bubbles at a time form and rise will do fine as that's still 212F but you need it in water that hot. It has to be hot enough and long enough so that the entire core is hotter than the boiling point of the alcohol (181F) all the way through so the ISO boils away with the steam. Given that the metal conducts heat well, a few minutes at 212F should do fine (and has for me) so I'd boil it for sure.

And 12 minutes is not nearly enough drying time (obviously) for the water you had left. Did you shake out as much water as you could get first? If it comes out wet, dry it some more, no big deal. You don't want to be hitting pure ISO, but modest amounts you smell should not be an issue.

So, I'd boil it a bit more then dry it out again. If you're smelling ISO you didn't boil it all out, if it's sizzling there's still water inside. I guess you could always keep heating the core until the sizzling stopped but then you'd probably have a clean Cera and no battery to work it with.

You're getting there, I think you just need a little more action at the end. Be a bit more aggressive?

Good luck.

OF

Ah! Not enough dry time and perhaps a little light on the boil. Even after the baking, running it dry, and sitting overnight its still crackling today.

I'm starting from scratch now beginning with a boil. How long does it need to bake@ 210f for in order to be properly dry?

Thanks again.
 
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Mynameismud

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Ah! Not enough dry time and perhaps a little light on the boil. Even after the baking, running it dry, and sitting overnight its still crackling today.

I'm starting from scratch now beginning with a boil. How long does it need to bake@ 210f for in order to be properly dry?

Thanks again.
I only have the Dart, and have only cleaned a few times but im assuming its similar. To dry, I blow out the remaining water, put in oven at 170F for a little less than an hour and then do the 20/20/20 and that usually does the trick. There is still a little crackling but I just go with it
 
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