Discontinued Thermovape Cera
- Thread starter SameOldTim
- Start date
OF
Well-Known Member
It's the safety pin. For secure carry, unscrew the end cap and slip it though the to big holes in the side then put the cap back. When ready, pull it back out and vape away.
Glad you've taken to it so quickly. Best get the battery on charge before you get too carried away?
BTW, nice socks.
Ain't that the truth? Funny I hear that's all a lie though......it was on the internet, must be true.....
@OF I passed out and had to close my eyes
I was afraid of that, Lady. I thought about PMing a warning to you, but sooner or later we have to take chances don't we.
I hope it passed quickly?
OF
Sonics420
Well-Known Member
Thats just the safety pin, you don't need it unless you travel and want to keep your cera from turning on.. I havent touched it since I took it off the Cera.
BLAZING OG
Vaping is a way of life!
http://www.componentforce.com/category/19/silicone-rubber-caps
Iam thinking of ordering some of these to create a full body sleeve for the cera, 5 inch and then cut it to line up with the cera mouthpiece sleeve!!!!!
Let me know what you all think!!!
These caps here are rated at 599 Degrees i believe, they have rubber and vinyl caps too, also i found some crazy heat resistant type of tape to mask the cera and its heat rating is above 400 degrees!!!
This in hope's no one drops there cera and cracks it like DARB!!!
Darb, i feel your pain, i wish i could of found these sleeves sooner!!!!
OF
Well-Known Member
Yes, although a AC unit could be made I guess. I bet Brother Pipes could make that happen.....
I'm running it off a (high power) Wall Wort (12 Volts at 3 Amps, 2 is needed), most normal ones (like for chargers) don't have enough steam. It also works on the 6 VDC 4 Amp supply TV sold with the T1 PA (another design goal) but the polarity is backwards on it for some reason and that's important. I'm using a 6 inch long adapter cable there. It also runs just fine on my 12 Volt (three 18650s) battery pack, originally made for my PD but also used a fair bit with the MFLB PA and even once to recharge my Solo. Volts is Volts if you've got enough Amps to back it up you know. It doesn't care where the electrons come from.
It's a DC/DC down converter, running at close to 95% efficiency (so very little self heating). 15 Volts max.
So far, it's showing the most promise of the schemes I've messed with. It's now packaged so some serious testing can happen.
OF
toros23
Well-Known Member
I actually feel like I have more control over the temp with the added airflow. I feel much more comfortable taking small sips with little effort, generating just enough air to not run too hot or too cold. Kind of like a good desktop convection vape with no airflow restriction - or am I wrong in making that association?
With all the screws installed, I feel like I am busting a lung when using my cool little 14mm VRIP adapter with glass. I much prefer the extra airflow but the issue Tim brought up regarding altering the airflow and not being able to wick up what is in the bottom sounds like a cause for concern:
I am certainly not losing any vapor density and couldn't be happier with performance with the screw missing. Could it be that some of the earlier EO carts that went out had more airflow (near the threads on the bottom) than the newer ones? Maybe that is why only some of us are noticing this issue of restricted airflow?? I hate to speculate like that but I cannot figure out why some of us have issues with airflow when all four screws are installed and others do not.
My EO core has stopped working all together. The LL core still heats up but the set screw fell out of that. Should I just call and send back? Any input is greatly appreciated.
thanks. Real quick what is the best way to clean the EO core for shipping?
hektik8625
Well-Known Member
Damn "OF" sick!Gentle Friends,
First, someone please take Dreamer for a long walk. I'm about to post another photo (two actually) and you know how she can get a little upset when that happens.......
So, yesterday there was some loose talk about a Power Adapter. I decided to finish packaging one of the prototypes I've been tinkering with:
Remember, this is a prototype, the cable needs work (and strain relief). That's the standard end cap minus the switch (which unscrews) so I suspect some threaded insert will happen to do the strain relief and provide a switch function (right now you have to unplug it).
Inside is the plastic tube that was used to make the T1 PA (that very few actually bought I understand?) that serves as a body for it. The electronics mounts inside on the brass screw that makes the positive contact with the cart when installed. There's a flat washer next (spring stop against the back end of the plastic tube) with a hardware store spring backed by a brass washer with the ground wire soldered to it. This bigger washer gets caught on the lip in the ring on Cera so it's clamped by the end cap making a solid connection (and keeping the cap from fully screwing down). It's a bit too thick, but again, what the local hardware store had when I went by this morning.
Yes, the little chrome screw head on the blue box is the voltage adjustment.
Initial testing shows promise. Not only is the power level constant (and variable) but since the internal heating in the battery doesn't happen any more the Cera body stays colder where you hold it longer for the same performance.
And yes, you can plug the car cord you may already own (or can easily by) and run it in the car.....that's part of the design goals.
OF
Haywood
Onward Thru the Fog
...one of the prototypes I've been tinkering with:
...
OF
So what (output) voltage have you found to your liking? Are you using different voltages when switching from the LL core to the EO core? I've been having a lot of fun playing with different voltages. Instead of using a specific strength and length of inhale to dictate the quantity and quality of hit I get, I can tune the voltage so that I can take the inhale (duration and strength) that I want, and wind up with the hit strength I prefer.
Which regulator chip are you using?
Darb
Well-Known Member
Great idea!! I need one of these.
BLAZING OG
Vaping is a way of life!
Iam glad you like it, I knew it might be useful, just cut out a bottom piece to expose the momentary switch!!!
Dreamerr
Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
I am going to find uses for it but need to learn how to measure. Great find OG...I think I will be able to make a cover for the PN bullet and maybe the solo stem even though you can use the battery caps and other vapes as well. They seem to be high enough heat that you can boil them as well so that is a bonus.
toros23
Well-Known Member
Nice find! Just curious, what about the 4 vent holes in the sides of the Cera body? Wouldn't you need to punch out holes for those?
amilehigh
Well-Known Member
Just an update -- I called TV and Zeki told me theres no need to warm up the core slowly, and it shouldnt be burning the oil. He said he's never heard of this on and off slowly; as long as its absorbed it should be good to go.
On a separate note, my LL core just all the sudden stopped working. I probably only used it 3 or 4 times because.. its new and i've mostly used the EO core. I'll send it in for a check up after i decide whether or not theres something wrong with my EO core, so i can send everything at once if need be.
I got some new concentrate for the EO core but got the same results. Since, per Zeki it shouldn't be burning, I didn't end up cleaning it before using the new stuff.
I tried the foil test with the CO2 oil and then the ear wax i picked up today. I hope i did it right - i just put a little bit on some aluminum foil, put it on the oven rack, and held a lighter underneath for a couple minutes. Both left spots, the CO2 oil surprisingly left a dark smudge, while the ear wax left a little dark perimeter of a circle. Does that mean my oil is bad and is clogging the sponges? Or combusting?
CO2 oil on the left, ear wax on the right
toros23
Well-Known Member
Haha.. Yeah, that was pretty much my point.
BTW - Are there any other air paths to be aware of other than the end of the mouthpiece?
OF
Well-Known Member
Fine. Zeki and I don't agree on several things, I'll add this to the list, will explain one more time what I think and am happy to let you take it from there.
To make it work well you need to absorb the goods into the ceramic before you get it hot enough to vape. The idea of making vapor is to heat the ceramic 'sponge', complete with the goods in it, up to the magic temperature all at once. Having a large volume of material 'working together' is what makes the high volume production we crave possible.
To get that to happen the ceramic core has to be warm so the material flows into it fully, but it can't be hot enough that it starts boiling off (evaporating) before hand. Since all we can do is turn power on or off and off is useless, and on gets us too hot, we're reduced to cycling it on an off to get the intermediate heat we need, just like your electric stove or oven does (the stove being open loop the oven closed).
Squirting it in cold with a syringe then heating isn't going to work I believe. Once it's down past the ceramic there's nothing to get it back up where it belongs. And if it's dripping off the heater it's going to burn long before the ceramic gets warm enough to absorb anything useful.....unless you carefully and slowly heat it up by on/off cycles.
You're welcome to do what you want, take advice as you will, but that's my understand of it and my practice. It's also my advice. AFAIK it works best, for sure I'm not having any real problems doing it nor am I aware of anyone reporting it not working for them after other matters are cleared up.
Best wishes
OF
YeeeBuddy
Well-Known Member
I think Zeki misunderstood what you were asking him, or he's talking about a brand new
Core. If its not completely empty the only way to warm it up to loading temperature without
making/wasting vapor is to pulse the power. We are talking about loading here not using right? I don't run my core till dry so if i wanna load more i have to hit the power in 5-10 second bursts to get the ceramic sponge warm, if i sit on the power for more than 10 seconds it just starts spewing vapor.
Core. If its not completely empty the only way to warm it up to loading temperature without
making/wasting vapor is to pulse the power. We are talking about loading here not using right? I don't run my core till dry so if i wanna load more i have to hit the power in 5-10 second bursts to get the ceramic sponge warm, if i sit on the power for more than 10 seconds it just starts spewing vapor.
Breathemetal
Well-Known Member
Man this thing looks sick, I hope they offer a black version eventually.
BLAZING OG
Vaping is a way of life!
Yes , i can find many used for these high temp caps, they use them for powder coating and other jobs demanding resistance to high heat !!!!
Yes, i do believe the holes are needed!!!!a hole puncher of some sort or hot metal piercer lol!!!!!!when i receive my cera back ill double check if air passes from the body !!!!
iamn3ko
Well-Known Member
What size ID would one need to get for it to properly fit snug even around the sunken center? I understand length isn't an issue, if its too long a simple cut would fit that.
BLAZING OG
Vaping is a way of life!
Thats my exact question, cera is 1 " diamater so maybe a smaller diameter would fit snuggly, they also had this material thats like a silicone but with some heat it heat shrinks!!!!!
**EDIT**
heres some info i found silicone should be 2-5% smaller than the actual ID!!!
SC – Silicone Straight-Walled Caps (rounded top) - 600°F
Viadon's silicone caps are ideal for powder coating, e-coating, plating, anodizing and wet painting. Inexpensive and reusable, they will withstand up to 600°F / 315°C. With over 85 standard caps to choose from (custom sizes can be made to your specifications), you're likely to find a silicone cap that is right for your next masking job.
Perfect for masking studs, threaded bolts, and flexible enough for irregular shapes, silicone caps are even versatile enough be used as plugs in certain situations. Or, snip the rounded cap end, and they make a short ‘tube' mask for short through holes.
Masking 101 Helpful Hints:
Silicone caps are the most cost effective product to cap threads, studs and tube ends that must be masked and heated from 350 to 600°F. Turned around, they can be 'nosed in' to straight-walled holes and function as a plug too.
When using as a Silicone cap, the ID of the cap should be 2% to 5% smaller than the thread or stud.
When using as a Silicone plug the OD of the cap should be 4% to 7% larger than the hole diameter.
http://www.viadon.com/Products/CapsandPlugs/SiliconeStraightWalledCaps.aspx
Viadon's silicone caps are ideal for powder coating, e-coating, plating, anodizing and wet painting. Inexpensive and reusable, they will withstand up to 600°F / 315°C. With over 85 standard caps to choose from (custom sizes can be made to your specifications), you're likely to find a silicone cap that is right for your next masking job.
Perfect for masking studs, threaded bolts, and flexible enough for irregular shapes, silicone caps are even versatile enough be used as plugs in certain situations. Or, snip the rounded cap end, and they make a short ‘tube' mask for short through holes.
- Use Silicone Caps for temperatures up to 600°F / 315°C
- Silicone Caps are re-usable.
- CUSTOM SIZES AVAILABLE WITH LOW COST TOOLING.
Masking 101 Helpful Hints:
Silicone caps are the most cost effective product to cap threads, studs and tube ends that must be masked and heated from 350 to 600°F. Turned around, they can be 'nosed in' to straight-walled holes and function as a plug too.
When using as a Silicone cap, the ID of the cap should be 2% to 5% smaller than the thread or stud.
When using as a Silicone plug the OD of the cap should be 4% to 7% larger than the hole diameter.
- HINT: To release trapped air from larger parts when heated for powder coating, pierce a small hole in the end of the cap with a finishing nail or scissors. This will help air to "burp" out when heated, and avoid "blow offs" of caps during the cure cycle which can damage surface finishes.
- SC's are ideal for use in powder coating, e-coating, plating and anodizing.
- SC's offer excellent high heat and good chemical resistance.
http://www.viadon.com/Products/CapsandPlugs/SiliconeStraightWalledCaps.aspx
scottfree
Active Member
Good points I was pretty stoned thanks to my CERA when I posted that, I trust you judgment OF but lol sorry for not saying c02 extracts/oil but most people up here just call it co2 HASH oil... well what they have been told is "c02 hash oil" but either way were talking about the same thing, And what I make you cant really call BHO when Im done refining it. I sell extracts to dispensaries here in Nor Cal. Your right there is a lot of cheap BS BHO in dispensaries , sadly most people dont know there getting extracts full of fats,waxes,lipids,bacteria and other contaminates from cheap solvents and on on ,oh and usually cheap equipment with no real QC but they dont know any better along with most dispensaries. I know a lot of people that lie to dispensaries just to get there product on the shelf.Anyway Im trying to compare the best of the best so where do you usually get it from? Can I see the lab results? Ive only heard of organalabs and that honeyoil taste like shit and it not as potent. Have you heard of a NEOS rapid, solvent-free microwave extraction (SFME) of Essential Oil? Thanks for all your advice OF
Still better than anything out. its not hype, the last line of products was so good we couldn't wait to get this, we actually care about what were VAPING, I pesonally dont want some cheap metal/plastic pen that just burns shit and will break with only a 1 year warranty made in china by the same factory with a few different aesthetics. I dont remember them saying ceramic body is indestructible just 10X stronger than glass or something, I personally think of it as glass vaporizer but better if that makes sense. I can elaborate on that if you need me to.
mod note: Please avoid back-to-back posts, use Edit instead. Two posts merged.