WakethBaketh
Well-Known Member
Yeah I rather not take the risk, thank you for letting me know. I guess I will just buy the the power adapter intended for the Solo.
Arizer Solo
- Thread starter Rockwise
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- arizer battery powered
Yeah I rather not take the risk, thank you for letting me know. I guess I will just buy the the power adapter intended for the Solo.
OF
Well-Known Member
So yes, I know a solid supply that will do the job for about half the bucks, but as stated above you'll need to change the connector and (in my case) drop the voltage a bit. It turns out the exact output voltage is critical, it needs to be under 9.0 but over about 8.5 or so. The unit says '9 Volts' but the PA says 8.5 Volts, that's a big clue....or was to me.
I think once again, the Lady has the best advice. Guys have had the ps2 supplies melt down on them, even if you're renting you probably don't want that sort of concern.....unless you like fires?
OF
Its about the same as trying to drink a milkshake through a straw IMO. At least with the stock stems anyway. Still was easy tomget huge hits, yu just have to get used to the technique.
Pvhes stems turn it into a whole different experience. I would definetly suggest the pvhegong stems or any pvhes stem
timmahsan
treEnt
I have some full melt that I have been breaking up and laying on a puff of organic cotton within the solo stem. It seems to be doing the trick, but I don't know how much of a duration it lasts. Should I go till it continues to give off vapor? I don't want to be confused by vapor from the cotton, if that is even possible.
VaporGuy
Lets Get Baked
It does work. I've tried it (the original PS2) had to change the connector though to make it fit the solo but it did work. having said that, I would avoid using the knock off one It would be risky to use IMO.
Red Indy
Low carbon PSYCHONAUT
I'd rather spend the bucks on the original PA than taking the risk to break the Solo.
If you aren't familiar with how this all works with voltage and changing connectors, just don't do it, it is very tricky and one little mistake is enough to leave you with a broken vaporizer!!!
XGerpXDerpX
Well-Known Member
Ima be using mine tonight shit got delivered...whoohoo.....hoping draw is similar to ecigs which im expert with
VaporGuy
Lets Get Baked
there is no need to be an expert all you need is to use this piece to make the connector fit the solo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-5-5x2-1m...=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3f0c6921a9
WakethBaketh
Well-Known Member
Then what would I plug that connector into?
XGerpXDerpX
Well-Known Member
Arizer solo
MonsterWithoutBorders
Philosophim
VaporGuy
Lets Get Baked
the connector on the PS2 is slightly bigger than the terminal on the Solo, so the adapter from ebay makes it fit the solo
It certainly is risky. From what I can tell, Arizer has intentionally mislead people by labelling the bottom of the solo to say that it heats on 9 volts. That's just not the case, the QiLi PSU that is sold for the Solo is rated as 8 and a half volts. Now half a volt in theory should not cause too much of a problem, but at the same time the Solo draws over 4 amps in a heating cycle (M102) and the Playstation slim PSU isn't made for that kind of constant power draw. It might work, but I don't know how long or how safe.
WakethBaketh
Well-Known Member
The connector has be receiving power from somewhere. I know the end that plugs into the solo, but I'm talking about the other end.
aesthyrian
Blaaaaah
IME the risk is not breaking your solo, but instead burning your whole house down. Those Chinese PS2 Slim adapters are only good as a heat source, and a very unsafe one at that.
pancreas_fractum
Active Member
I, too, was hoping to get a cheap alternative - but obviously not at the risk of breaking my beloved Solo. Just picked one up on ebay for $42.
OF
Well-Known Member
That's correct for a charger. It actually uses about .65 Amps, but we're talking about the Power Adapter which doesn't charge the battery but will run the Solo 'off the wall power'.
Are you sure of that current? Did you actually measure it? I measured mine (M1A4). It's just under 2.5 Amps worst case (cold) which drops to closer to 2.0 as it heats. Earlier ones could have used more current I suppose, but if the warm up time had been doubled (as this would seem to indicate) I would expect that to have been noticed, reported, and complained about far and wide. I'll bet it's not using as much current as you think?
I agree with folks about taking chances with a 'make do' supply. The one I'm using is a reasonable quality switcher desktop supply (like a laptop supply typically is, but at 9 Volts and 6 Amps). I'm using less than half the capacity, it runs nice and cool.
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
Interesting. Running hotter should not change heat up time, in fact it should make it longer? If guys were used to getting to temperature in say 90 seconds with M102 and that went to 3 minutes for the next model I can't believe that folks didn't notice that and complain??? Why would they choose to lower the heater current, and if there's a good reason (better performance, longer battery life, etc.) it seems strange guys haven't sniffed that out and made a big deal of it ('cuz in my mind it's a huge deal to change power so radically).
Thanks.
OF
Well, to be honest, taking your results into account makes me pretty confused to, I can't really account for a whole amp and a half difference over 20 degrees. I'm starting to doubt my equipment.
When you measured was it on the PSU or a battery pack? I don't get home from work for about an hour but when I do I'll test my MM.
When you measured was it on the PSU or a battery pack? I don't get home from work for about an hour but when I do I'll test my MM.
OF
Well-Known Member
PS current (at 8.5 Volts), battery current would be lower still. This is a closed loop system with no proportional control. It's full blast or off, like your home heater, not variable power. You turn it on and then cut power to zero when you make temperature (actually heater power goes to zero, the electronics still draws a bit). The extra 20 degrees is not related to power but is the result of heating say 15 seconds longer. When you change temperatures the heater and power don't change, all you do is change the temperatures you turn the heat off and back on again. It's most likely a software, not hardware, thing. Doubling the power would normally introduce a whole host of possible problems, it doesn't make sense somehow.....
OF