You will love the LL if you are not a cloud chasing type. It medicates quite well. If you are expecting fat clouds each and every time, you will probably be unhappy...especially if you try it right after taking a toot off the EO cart.
Discontinued Thermovape Cera
- Thread starter SameOldTim
- Start date
You will love the LL if you are not a cloud chasing type. It medicates quite well. If you are expecting fat clouds each and every time, you will probably be unhappy...especially if you try it right after taking a toot off the EO cart.
Homecpwork
Member
I'm six hours away from TET. I might need a road trip.
Furianlord
Member
"The difference in the two cartridges(EO/EL) is just the wiring. They are exactly the same otherwise. We use the same materials in both of them but have the resistance in the wiring different to account for the thinner liquids and the thicker oils and full melt substances." said Zeki of TET in a recent email to me.
Hey Tweek ... Hopefully I like it enough anyways ... Looks like it'll be my vape for my upcoming vacation! (I purchased one from another member since mine wasn't going to get here on time). Now hopefully that one gets here on time!
hektik8625
Well-Known Member
I believe you made the right decision also! The Persei hammer was kinda cool at first for its time,( I also USED to own, the hurcules oil carts attachment, and basic carts, + a couple omicron s ) but now that the CERA exists , it's hard to look back!!! AND MADE IN U.S.A. And Ti option. I'm yet to get mine , but can tell u this, so far their customer service is the best, they listen and respond to their customers. Those guys seem cool as shit and seem to be into what I'm into
makes sense, but they really should have at least marked the cartidges :S I suppose i'll have to locate a multimeter to figure this out.
Which one should have the lower rating? If i remember my schooling, lower ohms is going to allow more power through, so whichever has the highest ohm rating should be the liquid cart?
DankD
Furianlord
Member
I agree, how hard would it be to stamp the bottoms with a tiny EO and EL and yes lower resistance= higher current= more heat I believe. now to find the vapor point for PG and VG glycerols.
nopartofme
Over the falls, in a barrel
Actually, I believe the last we heard is that the EO core is wound for 14 watts nominal while the EL cart is 16. The EL should be the one with the lower resistance.
Haywood
Onward Thru the Fog
Double check with OF, who is in close contact with TET, but as far as I recall, the last message from OF (and Tim?) indicated that the EL core would use the most power (meaning it will have the lower resistance). I also recall that the EL core was 16W and the EO core was either 15W or 14W.
Ninja'd 
So who wants to play 'guess that core' ? I should have put the black o-ring on first, but i've swapped out the rear core to have one black ring to tell them apart.
I cant decide what ohm these are though? Is there a special technique to make this meter read more reliably?
bKirj61ij_U
DankD
I cant decide what ohm these are though? Is there a special technique to make this meter read more reliably?
DankD
Furianlord
Member
try your neg probe on male threads may give more consistent reading, also use only the very piont of both probes
OF
Well-Known Member
That was the story last week. 3 different powers, EO, LL and EL in that order. If I had the two carts and no idea I'd time how long to 'full glow' on each empty cart, the EL cart should be several seconds faster each time.
Once they're filled you'll know of course, but when new I agree marking them would be a good idea....
OF
numero
Well-Known Member
Got my cera in the mail today, unfortunately I think I ended up with 2 of the same core. Already have a mail out to thermovape, but until then Could anyone verify are these the CEO, or the Liquid? I'm thinking liquid but not sure.
Congrats on your cera, when did you preorder it...
Congrats on ur cera ..when did you preorder it?
Haywood
Onward Thru the Fog
As Furianlord mentioned, you should position the negative lead on the threads, not the body. And I can't quite make out the dial on your DVM, but it appears that your meter is set to auto-range ohms, which is one of the reasons it's taking so long to come to a reading. If your meter supports a manual ohms setting, set it to its lowest range. Also, to get a feeling for your meter, just hold both leads together and see how long it takes to get a stable reading (of hopefully 0), then move the leads around a little and see how much that effects the reading. When you have a feel for your meter, then try it on your cores, using the threads not the body. You can try first holding one probe on one side of the threads (parallel to the threads, so the whole side of the probe is sitting in one of the valleys of the threads), and the other lead on the other side of the threads, and then see how much your "wiggling" while holding the leads effects your reading. Get a feeling for your meter and your probes before you check the core resistance itself. You may not have to rely on using the point of your probe, which is hard to hold steady, at least for the probe on the threads. I just measured the eight TET cores I have here the other day, so I know what you're going through.
Or, you just use OF's test, which should be easy to do; one core should lightup faster than the other, assuming the same charge on the battery for the test.
And by the way, there is no "rule" that you have to use the slightly higher power core for juice and the slightly lower power core for concentrates. Juice people generally have a lower tolerance for waiting five seconds to take a hit, hence the higher power core. But since you are at home with both, you can just taylor your use to whatever makes you happy. Maybe the EL core will have a bit too much "throat" hit for your likes with a particular juice. So you use the EO core for (that) juice. Same thing in the other direction too. You might have a concentrate you really like, but it takes a lot of heat to get it going (melted).
Looking forward to your continued experiments, and I loved your video!
iamn3ko
Well-Known Member
I believe it was 19mm
OF
Well-Known Member
No, that's the switch size, it's going to be SAE not metric.
I don't understand the original question. The OD of the ring is 1.00 inches (minus a few thousandths), as is the cap. The threads are internal to the ring, the major diameter of the cap side is .868 inches, ID of the ring is 8.22, give or take, if that's the question???
OF
kevin
Well-Known Member
So did anybody find out why some cores have black o-ring and others red?
Also, Hey EO guys I'm having trouble loading solid waxes or even very thick not soild. This is very clean oils not from the clubs, but I heat up Cera drop a BB size ball into the core move it around on top on the disk, a little may melt down into heater core but most seems to stay on top or stuck to the walls, if I give it more heat it will start to vape. So I let it set hoping it will melt down into core but usually only the center will melt not the sides. Now if I stay on the power for a min or so it will start to vape the wax off the walls BUT the oil in the heater core is now tasting alittle over cooked! Then when the oil in heater starts to cook the wax on the sides cools again, so I just seem to keep andding BB wax balls into her but this is only good for a few big hits and then I'm back to the same thing, playing w/the wax and making a mess, Please don't get me wrong the EO cart rocks clouds, I just want to learn how to load her right and not waste so much good stuff!
Any tips or videos would be great!
TIA
Kevin
Also, Hey EO guys I'm having trouble loading solid waxes or even very thick not soild. This is very clean oils not from the clubs, but I heat up Cera drop a BB size ball into the core move it around on top on the disk, a little may melt down into heater core but most seems to stay on top or stuck to the walls, if I give it more heat it will start to vape. So I let it set hoping it will melt down into core but usually only the center will melt not the sides. Now if I stay on the power for a min or so it will start to vape the wax off the walls BUT the oil in the heater core is now tasting alittle over cooked! Then when the oil in heater starts to cook the wax on the sides cools again, so I just seem to keep andding BB wax balls into her but this is only good for a few big hits and then I'm back to the same thing, playing w/the wax and making a mess, Please don't get me wrong the EO cart rocks clouds, I just want to learn how to load her right and not waste so much good stuff!
Any tips or videos would be great!
TIA
Kevin
PB88123
Vaporist
For looks. If you take off the ceramic topcap and mouth piece you can use a black mouth piece, (eventually a black silicone body sleeve) and black o-rings for a different look.
kevin
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info! I got the Ti unit and thought that's why the different colors..
Got and tips loading the solid waxes?
Kevin
Kushtoker630
New Member
Il buy one but went would it be shipped that's what's scaring me awayDoes this help?
These are just some of today's shipments BTW
Hope you all have a great weekend!
Cheers,
Tim
P.S. is this a lucky post count?
OF
Well-Known Member
My opinion on this hasn't changed since we discussed this topic. As I said then, it's challenging but can be done (I did it, remember?). For the sake of the others let me hit the high points?
It has to melt in. That means it has to first melt, only when it's actually a liquid can it hope to be absorbed. Your material resists that as you know. It's up to you to overcome it or results will be poor.
Vaping it before it's absorbed is a mistake.
The two techniques I successfully used and recommended include carefully stirring the half melted concentrate in the upper chamber with a wood tooth pick so it contacts warm metal and finally melts. Keep the heat low until it's fully melted in, pulling vapor before works against you. Once it's fully liquid and the ceramic material is not 'bone dry' it will be absorbed and work fine, don't let it get dried out again to keep loading simpler.
The other technique is to load using either your Omicron tool or a trusty cake funnel (like I do). Remove the rings then use your torch to heat the goods to melting into the warm core. Again, be careful not to get it hot enough to vape before finished loading.
I still recommend both, they work or at least did for me.
Leaving it to 'load by magic' as you heat is not going to get it.
It's not as easy as thinner concentrates, and is definitely related to the concentrate character. Shatters and glasses share this as well. They too take more care loading and using.
Good luck.
OF
Bluntcrush
Director of Vapor Research Labs™
If you ordered the EO Cera then it came with that cart installed I think, other carts are in separate containers within the box. (the one in a small container is the "second choice cart" so to speak. (This is my opinion only, I am guessing, because that's how mine shipped...
Good luck sussing it out...
Good luck sussing it out...
The other point I would like to add to OF already excellent advice, is that if you are running it upside down (connected to glass) the oil will run toward the cap. This means you will have to open it up every once in a while and scrape down the oil. If you have alot in there, it can sometimes also clog the air holes.
I generally pop mine open every once in a while to scrape down the oil, even when I am using it normally.
I generally pop mine open every once in a while to scrape down the oil, even when I am using it normally.