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Discontinued Omicron Vaporizer for oils

Really hoping for help! First time at the forum so apologies if I'm violating any rules. I am on my 3rd O-Phos bc every one I get has the same problem or I am misunderstanding something about how to get it to work. I get it home, I charge it, and when I test my cartridge it dies not get the glowing light & heat. Nothing. I've watched videos so I know what it should look like. Has anyone had this happen? This is my third time with this so it must be something I'm doing wrong. Appreciate your knowledge and help!
Does the button light when you press it?
First guess: "five click" lock-out

Merged:

Whats the verdict on QWISO in an Omi?
http://karmadelivers.com/Concentrates.html
take a look at the "high quality hash oil" they fessed up that it's an iso - but that price is pretty tempting 4gs for $55, any input?
It is green in thin layer - that means not "high quality" with plenty of chlorophyll. (the "glass" look nice, but pricy)

-NFA
 
Nick Again,
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baltik

Well-Known Member
It is green in thin layer - that means not "high quality" with plenty of chlorophyll. (the "glass" look nice, but pricy)

-NFA[/quote]

Good call - probly go for the Co2 syringe instead then
 
baltik,

Krazzykid

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone, I have a question regarding the build of the omicron/o-phos cartridges. I have an o-phos and recently i bought a new D9 1.5 cart for my vape and I pre-oxidized it and everything, when i went to load it still tasted like chemicals. I was kind of worried about that and so I did some research. I found a video from the thermovape guys and they actually took apart a d9 cart (i can find it if anyone is interested) but it had fiberglass inside and wiring through the airpath. I am concerned about the health issues and was wondering if anyone can shed some light about this. I mean somtimes it actually hurts my lungs after i smoke my o-phos.
You really shouldn't be pre-oxidizing at all, especially with 1.5 carts. They run quite a bit hotter and the funny taste you are experiencing could very well be that you are melting the o rings, or burning the wick. Some off taste does happen at first from time to time, but pre-oxidizing can make things go bad really quick. If you melted the seals, expect it to leak more than usual as well.

Really hoping for help! First time at the forum so apologies if I'm violating any rules. I am on my 3rd O-Phos bc every one I get has the same problem or I am misunderstanding something about how to get it to work. I get it home, I charge it, and when I test my cartridge it dies not get the glowing light & heat. Nothing. I've watched videos so I know what it should look like. Has anyone had this happen? This is my third time with this so it must be something I'm doing wrong. Appreciate your knowledge and help!
You could be burning the cartridges out when you are dry firing them. Aside from that do what Nick Again just said. Press the button 5 times really fast, it has a feature where it locks and unlocks with 5 quick pushes so it won't go off in your pocket accidentally.
As I just said though, you shouldn't be pre-oxidizing the carts at all.
 

255

New Member
Thank you for the replies. I'm referring to the cartridge tests. The button does not light up, no, and when I look down the cartridge barrel there is no orange light and no heat. The unit is charged.

How can I burn out the cartridges with no heat?

Thanks again so much! I really want my o-Phos to work.
 
255,

Krazzykid

Well-Known Member
Thank you for the replies. I'm referring to the cartridge tests. The button does not light up, no, and when I look down the cartridge barrel there is no orange light and no heat. The unit is charged.

How can I burn out the cartridges with no heat?

Thanks again so much! I really want my o-Phos to work.
Again try clicking the button 5 times really fast. This is a feature of the o-phos. If you don't unlock it there won't be a light or anything.

Edit: It is statistically nearly impossible that you would receive three that won't work. I still stand by what Nick and myself have said, they have all most likely just been locked, and you aren't unlocking them.
 

THC SCIENTIFIC

To Boldly Go Where No One Has Gone Before
Manufacturer
sorry guys i have been absent, while i did go through some issues personally, im back on my feet and will be back on the job fully after the 3rd. Please pm me if you have any questions and i will try to get it resolved as best to my capabilities at this time.
 

Krazzykid

Well-Known Member
VICTORY!!! YAY!

After 2 months, finally. Good god.
I am glad it is working for you now!
It really is a nice feature though, it will keep you from worrying if the button is getting pressed while the unit is in your pocket(no wasted oil), that is if you aren't too medicated to remember to re-lock it!:)
 

Kevdog420

OMMP Patient
You really shouldn't be pre-oxidizing at all, especially with 1.5 carts. They run quite a bit hotter and the funny taste you are experiencing could very well be that you are melting the o rings, or burning the wick. Some off taste does happen at first from time to time, but pre-oxidizing can make things go bad really quick. If you melted the seals, expect it to leak more than usual as well.

Okay why shouldn't I be pre-oxidizing?? Everything I have read including info from D9 says to always pre oxidize, so is this all wrong? Also I have had this same chemical taste problem on the 2.4 carts, so i dont think i am melting the seals, as i am very careful how hot i let the carts get.

AND WHY SHOULD I EVEN HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT MELTING SEALS IN THE FIRST PLACE?? that sounds pretty sketchy that can even happen, I mean considering the fact this is a vaporizer and vaporizers get HOT, they should be designed with parts that don't MELT when you use it. So why is there parts that can melt in it?? Am I crazy for asking this? because no one else seems very concerned.. sounds like a cancer lawsuit waiting to happen.

Honestly I am starting to have second thoughts on D9 after I saw FIBERGLASS come out of their cartridge.. Does that worry anyone else?

Also is it just me or do the carts have a chemical taste when first filled (even after pre-oxidizing). I mean if I can taste it, it is definitely getting into my lungs.

I'm really considering getting rid of my o-phos and buying a thermovape because of these reasons, so if anyone can actually give me some educated information on this subject I would greatly appreciate it.. I'm not trying to get cancer from my o-phos...
 
Kevdog420,

Krazzykid

Well-Known Member
Okay why shouldn't I be pre-oxidizing?? Everything I have read including info from D9 says to always pre oxidize, so is this all wrong? Also I have had this same chemical taste problem on the 2.4 carts, so i dont think i am melting the seals, as i am very careful how hot i let the carts get.

AND WHY SHOULD I EVEN HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT MELTING SEALS IN THE FIRST PLACE?? that sounds pretty sketchy that can even happen, I mean considering the fact this is a vaporizer and vaporizers get HOT, they should be designed with parts that don't MELT when you use it. So why is there parts that can melt in it?? Am I crazy for asking this? because no one else seems very concerned.. sounds like a cancer lawsuit waiting to happen.

Honestly I am starting to have second thoughts on D9 after I saw FIBERGLASS come out of their cartridge.. Does that worry anyone else?

Also is it just me or do the carts have a chemical taste when first filled (even after pre-oxidizing). I mean if I can taste it, it is definitely getting into my lungs.

I'm really considering getting rid of my o-phos and buying a thermovape because of these reasons, so if anyone can actually give me some educated information on this subject I would greatly appreciate it.. I'm not trying to get cancer from my o-phos...
You shouldn't be pre-oxidizing for the reasons I already stated. The leads from the heater wire go through the bottom seal to the connector on the bottom of the cart. Running the cart when there isn't any oil in there will cause these wires to run hotter than they are supposed to with oil in it, which leads to melting the bottom seal and causing more leaking. You can also cause the wick to get burnt a little leading to the cart having a burnt taste for the life of the cart. You could also completely burn the cart out!
The D9 site, and the instructions that came with it haven't said to pre-oxidize for quite a while now because of this issue that people were finding.

On the cartridges page on D9 it does still say at the top in red lettering "Must be oxidized prior to use(see instructions tab), however when you click on the instructions tab there are no longer any instructions for this.
Also if you read through this thread and the persei thread there was a pretty heavy discussion a while back on why we shouldn't pre-oxidize anymore. The only place that still suggests it is the vaporpedia page, which D9 has nothing to do with so they can't change it. Use the search function on this thread and the persei thread and you will see many people saying not to do this anymore, and at multiple times.

Sorry you didn't know, but now you do.

Edit: Yes the carts do contain a silica wick (also known as fiberglass). G has been working on the updated version for some time now that won't contain a wick at all. Many people, myself included, have been waiting for this new version for quite some time now. It will come eventually.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
To add a bit to KK's excellent post, yes many of us are concerned about silica fibers in the wicks. My take is they don't get loose since they're trapped inside the heater coil or in the reservoir where they don't matter. Those that might break free are quickly glued in place by the 'scab' that forms over the heater.

Better if they're not there of course, but IMO not a serious threat.

Another point is taste is a very subjective thing. By testing 10,000 to 1 differences between people in threshold of perception is not uncommon I understand. Smell is something like that as well. Some will literally not taste stuff others can't stand. Go figure.

Several users have also reported taste issues changed a lot or went away entirely with strain changes, most find it stabilizes quite quickly.

Overall I'm a big fan of Omicron carts (at least the 2.4 Ohm ones, I think cloud chasers get in trouble with hotter ones too often).....but don't ask me to choose between them and the Cera oil cart. IMO they are two entirely different beasts.

OF
 

Kevdog420

OMMP Patient
Thanks a lot for the responses, this clears things up for me. For now on I will just load the oil in the cart before trying to oxidize.. But the factory oils and fiberglass still worry me a bit; wouldn't the factory oils/grease still be present without pre-oxidizing?

I know the taste can be a subjective thing but I have tried over 10 different strains of oil in my carts and they always have that chemical taste to them, and everyone who I have shared it with says the same.. That being said I have always pre oxidized and I also always use 1.5 carts, so that very well could be the reason.

The fact that these carts have parts that can melt at the heat levels produced by the unit itself is still something that seems like a crucial design flaw to me, I mean don't get me wrong I love d9 and i love my o-phos, it just worries me..
 
Kevdog420,

whyblameus

Member
Thanks a lot for the responses, this clears things up for me. For now on I will just load the oil in the cart before trying to oxidize.. But the factory oils and fiberglass still worry me a bit; wouldn't the factory oils/grease still be present without pre-oxidizing?

I know the taste can be a subjective thing but I have tried over 10 different strains of oil in my carts and they always have that chemical taste to them, and everyone who I have shared it with says the same.. That being said I have always pre oxidized and I also always use 1.5 carts, so that very well could be the reason.

Clean them with alcohol first before using them.
 
whyblameus,

whyblameus

Member
Get a small cup and put enough alcohol to submerge your cart and let it soak in it stirring/agitating frequently. Maybe 20 minutes in the alcohol and shake out the alcohol after. Then then them dry for a few hours at least.


Do people not boil and alcohol soak there carts to clean them anymore?

The real taste problem with new carts imho isnt the heating wires needing oxodized its that the wicks are preprimed like some ecig carts.
Cause I get no flavor difference in a new ecig cart thats isnt preprimed from the factory.
 
whyblameus,

OF

Well-Known Member
Do people not boil and alcohol soak there carts to clean them anymore?

The real taste problem with new carts imho isnt the heating wires needing oxodized its that the wicks are preprimed like some ecig carts.
Cause I get no flavor difference in a new ecig cart thats isnt preprimed from the factory.

Boiling them is not an Omicron feature, folks have wrecked carts this way......any place you can point to saying this is OK? Or for that matter, while some folks have reported using ISO on them, does anyone know of this being authorized?

Those are recommended techniques for TV products, not D9.

However, before 'the great four Ohm cart taste test' (of which I still have one I think), it was confirmed that not only wasn't there any 'priming' (typically PG I understand?) involved in Omicron carts but G also said he rewrote the specs to include an additional washing step at assembly. There should be nothing there to wash out as I understand.

G said he'll be back on line soon, perhaps he can shed some light here? For now I'll just say I seriously doubt boiling is allowed......it's a feature of the Hercules cart.....a big improvement, right?

OF
 
OF,

Krazzykid

Well-Known Member
Do people not boil and alcohol soak there carts to clean them anymore?
As far as I have known this has never been advised, boiling especially.

The alcohol soak technically could work, as long as you make sure to give more than enough time for all the alcohol to evaporate.
I do know people have done alcohol soaks to recover oil from burned out carts, but this is the first I am hearing of anyone doing a soak and boil before using the cart.

I am not saying it can't work, but I am not advising anyone to do this. Try at your own risk.
 
Krazzykid,

OF

Well-Known Member
The alcohol soak technically could work, as long as you make sure to give more than enough time for all the alcohol to evaporate.
I do know people have done alcohol soaks to recover oil from burned out carts, but this is the first I am hearing of anyone doing a soak and boil before using the cart.

I'm not too sure ISO is a good idea if you intend to use the cart afterwards. Some seals degrade quickly in ISO and I'm not sure what exactly is used.

It's not the first I've heard of boiling them, not too long back some fellow was saying he'd trashed a couple that way (leakers?) but I don't recall if it was in a PM or open forum. Whichever, it didn't work out well.

I also still firmly believe guys should stick with 2.4 Ohm carts until they have them fully sorted out. I understand that's not a popular concept but over and over new guys have taken that suggestion to heart and reported back on what a good idea it was. Guys who want to go for instant gratification over learning the skills needed report a string of taste and leak issues. Go figure.

I agree this advice should probably wait on an official word from G.

OF
 
OF,

Krazzykid

Well-Known Member
I completely agree with you there OF. I have no idea what specific rubber is used for the seals, and like you said it may not be strong enough for the properties if ISO. I do know a lot of people have recovered oil from bad carts with ISO though and I don't recall any of them saying the oil tasting like rubber or plastic.

Still, without G coming on here and saying they are up to the task, I don't in any way recommend doing either the ISO soak or the boil.
 
Krazzykid,
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whyblameus

Member
I swore it was normal lol

I can personally say alcohol didnt hurt my omicron cart. Cleaned it 4 or more times.the seals never leaked. Only the normal leaking down the airpath.
Never boiled it though.
It made the flavor better when I would refill it.


However, before 'the great four Ohm cart taste test' (of which I still have one I think), it was confirmed that not only wasn't there any 'priming' (typically PG I understand?) involved in Omicron carts but G also said he rewrote the specs to include an additional washing step at assembly. There should be nothing there to wash out as I understand.

OF

Maybe I got mine before they started cleaning them. cause mine tasted metallly/chemically for about the first gram.
I wished I had cleaned it with alcohol first.
 
whyblameus,
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YeeeBuddy

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone this is my first post, hopefully not my last. Ive been lurking around the forum for a couple days and am looking into getting a vape pen of some sort so thought I better join in. After reading alot of this thread i think I'm gonna go with the 0-phos for my beginner vape, sounds like its a pretty heavy hitter at a decent price.

I have also been very impressed with the customer service from the Omicron guys, you can tell they really care about keeping their customers happy. Having reliable customer service and a place to troubleshoot with this forum made my decision alot easier. I am curious I would like to buy directly from you guys but i live in socal and a couple dispensaries within 5 miles carry them, if i buy from them do i still get the same warranty?

I am a med patient and normally burn flowers but would like something more discreet that i can take on the go and not have to fill all the time. From what ive read the o-phos is very similar to the omicron v1 which got great reviews so I am hopefull.


-vape noob
 
YeeeBuddy,

OF

Well-Known Member
I am a med patient and normally burn flowers but would like something more discreet that i can take on the go and not have to fill all the time. From what ive read the o-phos is very similar to the omicron v1 which got great reviews so I am hopefull.

First off, howdy and welcome to the fun. I too hope you'll be joining in more in the future.

I think you're definitely 'on the right track' here. O-phos and 2.4 Ohm carts is a great combination. Look for good concentrate ('super melt or better', avoid 'full melts'), you want light color and harder nature at room temperature as rough guidelines. Load half a gram at first, and add half a gram more when it slows down (with about .2 left typically). Loading more seems to invite leaks.

Also pay careful attention to heat in loading, lots of new owners seem to get hung up here. The key is to keep the bottom (where the seals are) cool enough to hold comfortably while you preheat the center part well before moving up to the load in the funnel. Most guys get into trouble when the just barely melted goods start to slide down the tube and hit cold metal. The first bit sticks to the wall part way down and the rest sticks above it leaving an air bubble trapped under it. No (or erratic) feeding happens. Done right you'll feel the hot load drop down through your fingers at the bottom.

Remember to hit is slow, you can't get get the vapor before it's made and pulling lots of cold air through trying will only make it slower still.

Good luck getting it sorted out, it's a good tool for sure.

OF
 

YeeeBuddy

Well-Known Member
Theirs a michaels right down the street I think im going to invest in one of those cake decorater tip things.
 
YeeeBuddy,

OF

Well-Known Member
Theirs a michaels right down the street I think im going to invest in one of those cake decorater tip things.

Cool. Number 10 is the one I use. I flared the bottom of mine out a bit (rolled it around a round screwdriver blade) to put a very short 'stem' on the bottom of the funnel (parallel sides) that just fits inside the top of the cart. Being as thin as it it, it's very easy to control the heat (and it's fast).

They're under a buck, if you plan of trying to modify one you might get a spare just in case? Don't forget to grab a few round toothpicks somewhere to plug up the tube.....

OF
 

YeeeBuddy

Well-Known Member
Anyone have the link to the video of the guy who invented the cake decorater method.

Edit: Nevermind I found his instructions with pictures on page 4.
 
YeeeBuddy,
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