Homemade Vaporizers
- Thread starter Revolution9
- Start date
VaporEyeSore
Active Member
2clicker said:
I am sooo loving this and am going to try one out just for a laugh . But does anyone know if anyone makes a 12v ceramic iron? Im going to an outdoor party soon and this would be great . Any ideas?
robert denby
Active Member
dude i seriously want some more pics of the 2.0 model you were working on. i have been having some woodworking fun recently and with the mesh i got, i think thatd be the perfect setup.
can you explain it a little more? like where does the outside air come from on its way to the trench? the battery block has the hole drilled all the way thru right? no plexi?
looking forward to a fun project, maybe i can come up with a way to make it better.
can you explain it a little more? like where does the outside air come from on its way to the trench? the battery block has the hole drilled all the way thru right? no plexi?
looking forward to a fun project, maybe i can come up with a way to make it better.
Im not sure on the ethics of this but let's just say any man is more than welcome to create whatever he should like. Period.
Anyway, I would like share with everyone something that I have been working on for two years, Which is about the time I saw the Eclipse Pipe (Essential Vaaaape back then) and wanted to create the same thing myself, For about 80 bucks less considering I had some vials lying around. Through 2 years of tinkering I came to a simple solution that is essentially one of those, Oh that's been lying around the whole time under my nose concepts. So let me unveil it and we can move on. (I dont think it's anything special).
Ok so, Essentially we can see how it works. The same as the Eclipse. Trick being that the carb hole is very small, As it is a groove cut into the wood at a 90 degree tangent. Think pac-man with his mouth open. This allows air into the vial and up the mouthpiece to deliver sweet sweet nectar.
So all the shit I ran into trying to make this thing eventually all came down to the fact that I was just to ignorant to the entire process and it stumped me to one point that I did not try for a long while. As usual the reason something isn't feasible is lack of knowledge.
Pitfall one, Tasted like crap. Couldnt understand why, nor could I get it to taste good no matter what. Thought it might be what I was using to draw the vapor out, Which was a silicon tube attached to the vial just like to my vape wand. Assumed that I needed pyrex vial's as opposed to the regular glass one's I was using. Didnt have much time to piss with it then, Nor did I have oil. So dropped it for a bit.
Got pyrex viles (Borrosillicate Glass) I just bought replacement for the eclipse on ebay. Still tasted crap. Found that I was heating it to much and the tube was gettin to hot and melting, Cant be hitting silicone. So we tried dear antler, Being the redkneck family I have. Considering my father's corncob pipe has lasted him 25 years and well over 100 strains lol, He at first didnt care for vaporizer's but I got him hooked. The antler worked but did not have a very secure fit. Then of course I saw the dole rod. Which worked perfectly, I shaved it to a point to fit further into the vial, The porous wood itself made a good tight hold and seal, And no melted taste.
As for the rest. If your oil tastes bad it's because your not heating the top of the vial enough, The vapor pool's at the bottom and burn's (It doesnt reach flash point but it scorches nonetheless). Thing being that THC and other liquid oil's can vaporize without the need to reach boiling temp's. So the key to the VIAL as I call it, Is to be sure to heat the entire glass, It's extremely important. You barely have to heat it if you do it right. With a normal bic you can get nice smooth tasting visible hit's with maybe 15 seconds of lighter time if that, Less for each hit. I see people on youtube just torching these things to milk their bongs. It's a waste as it's burning alot of the oil in their off and giving them a horrible coughing fit.
Anyway, There it is. Pyrex is god, It disperses heat well. That's why you need pyrex, Otherwise your heat becomes to focused and unspread out around the glass and you burn your oil instead of vape it.
peace
Anyway, I would like share with everyone something that I have been working on for two years, Which is about the time I saw the Eclipse Pipe (Essential Vaaaape back then) and wanted to create the same thing myself, For about 80 bucks less considering I had some vials lying around. Through 2 years of tinkering I came to a simple solution that is essentially one of those, Oh that's been lying around the whole time under my nose concepts. So let me unveil it and we can move on. (I dont think it's anything special).
Ok so, Essentially we can see how it works. The same as the Eclipse. Trick being that the carb hole is very small, As it is a groove cut into the wood at a 90 degree tangent. Think pac-man with his mouth open. This allows air into the vial and up the mouthpiece to deliver sweet sweet nectar.
So all the shit I ran into trying to make this thing eventually all came down to the fact that I was just to ignorant to the entire process and it stumped me to one point that I did not try for a long while. As usual the reason something isn't feasible is lack of knowledge.
Pitfall one, Tasted like crap. Couldnt understand why, nor could I get it to taste good no matter what. Thought it might be what I was using to draw the vapor out, Which was a silicon tube attached to the vial just like to my vape wand. Assumed that I needed pyrex vial's as opposed to the regular glass one's I was using. Didnt have much time to piss with it then, Nor did I have oil. So dropped it for a bit.
Got pyrex viles (Borrosillicate Glass) I just bought replacement for the eclipse on ebay. Still tasted crap. Found that I was heating it to much and the tube was gettin to hot and melting, Cant be hitting silicone. So we tried dear antler, Being the redkneck family I have. Considering my father's corncob pipe has lasted him 25 years and well over 100 strains lol, He at first didnt care for vaporizer's but I got him hooked. The antler worked but did not have a very secure fit. Then of course I saw the dole rod. Which worked perfectly, I shaved it to a point to fit further into the vial, The porous wood itself made a good tight hold and seal, And no melted taste.
As for the rest. If your oil tastes bad it's because your not heating the top of the vial enough, The vapor pool's at the bottom and burn's (It doesnt reach flash point but it scorches nonetheless). Thing being that THC and other liquid oil's can vaporize without the need to reach boiling temp's. So the key to the VIAL as I call it, Is to be sure to heat the entire glass, It's extremely important. You barely have to heat it if you do it right. With a normal bic you can get nice smooth tasting visible hit's with maybe 15 seconds of lighter time if that, Less for each hit. I see people on youtube just torching these things to milk their bongs. It's a waste as it's burning alot of the oil in their off and giving them a horrible coughing fit.
Anyway, There it is. Pyrex is god, It disperses heat well. That's why you need pyrex, Otherwise your heat becomes to focused and unspread out around the glass and you burn your oil instead of vape it.
peace
VWFringe
Naruto Fan
it must be possible to find lower wattage ceramic heating elements, i just keep getting alibaba.com results - too vaped to filter, hehe
but yeah, you don't need a soldering iron, just the element and something to mount it safely and something else to turn it down
i think the setup i have (using a light dimmer) and the iron with temp control built in, both have the same problem...we want the whole dial dedicated to one small band of what the soldering iron can do, but the dial we've ended up with only has four or five degrees dedicated to our temp band...if that makes sense
but yeah, you don't need a soldering iron, just the element and something to mount it safely and something else to turn it down
i think the setup i have (using a light dimmer) and the iron with temp control built in, both have the same problem...we want the whole dial dedicated to one small band of what the soldering iron can do, but the dial we've ended up with only has four or five degrees dedicated to our temp band...if that makes sense
@VWF - i think he's looking for a lower voltage iron so it can be battery powered.
And, yeah, even the first PWM controller i got (on eBay) worked like a dimmer switch, allowing the full range of current output from 0% to 100%.
what i needed was much more resolution in the 20% to 30% output range, with 100% output at startup. And wouldn't you know, if you want something done right you just gotta do it yourself.
And, yeah, even the first PWM controller i got (on eBay) worked like a dimmer switch, allowing the full range of current output from 0% to 100%.
what i needed was much more resolution in the 20% to 30% output range, with 100% output at startup. And wouldn't you know, if you want something done right you just gotta do it yourself.
neat thread... really lets you appreciate how much R/D was used to make the real MFLB as refined as it is.
a lot of people like to discard the LB as some homemade woodshop vaporizer...
cant wait to see more improvements to your homemade vape... I wish I was more handy with my.. hands.
a lot of people like to discard the LB as some homemade woodshop vaporizer...
cant wait to see more improvements to your homemade vape... I wish I was more handy with my.. hands.
For stainless steel screen I like Mcmastercarr.com
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
http://imageshack.us/f/84/dsc1157o.jpg
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/687/dsc1158f.jpg
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/97/dsc1400ed.jpg
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/dsc1407p.jpg
My dbv heater cover broke ... and i noticed that i have this ceramic heating station
that i bought for bout $20 and had never used it 
... It has a Temperature control .. I made it for a friend that is hooked on vaporizing salvia... He fills the whole wand with herb ... And uses no the herb chamber but the more narrow and longer part the one that holds the whip (because he is too greedy... and even the biggest bowl is small for him.. ).. He actually put some screen 2-3 sm away from the wands end... and he is inhaling whitout a whip with the mouth piece in the wand...... on max temp... Crazy mofo...
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/687/dsc1158f.jpg
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/97/dsc1400ed.jpg
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/dsc1407p.jpg
My dbv heater cover broke ... and i noticed that i have this ceramic heating station
that i bought for bout $20 and had never used it ... It has a Temperature control .. I made it for a friend that is hooked on vaporizing salvia... He fills the whole wand with herb ... And uses no the herb chamber but the more narrow and longer part the one that holds the whip (because he is too greedy... and even the biggest bowl is small for him.. ).. He actually put some screen 2-3 sm away from the wands end... and he is inhaling whitout a whip with the mouth piece in the wand...... on max temp... Crazy mofo...
VWFringe
Naruto Fan
Abysmal Vapor:
In tuning the "distance to heat ratio" you find different depth penetration:
1) @70% I kept the herb 2" from the heater, and could load a bowl 3/4" deep, and pulling as hard as i could it would not combust and would toast the whole load.
2) At only 3/4" from the heat source I have to keep it turned down to 30%, and the depth is much shorter (but that's the trade-off I made to use a mini-whip instead of a homemade metal tube for a bowl)
i like to think of the flame of a candle being pulled by the wind, instead of pushed, and how far you can pull that heat bubble that surrounds the heater depends on how high it's turned up, and what's in the way. On most glass HC's there's a small hole the air gets sucked through, on the DBV which is more open you should be able to turn it up, move the herb farther away, and load bigger bowls, like when I used my ss tube open (before i stuck a washer in the tip).
i'm okay with the smaller loads since it more closely matches my intake pattern (3 puffs, walk away and forget its on for the next five hours)
I remember when I got it tuned just right and I could just pull so hard and it kept right up, really powerfull heater.
EDIT: my experience is only with the mini-whip and a 1/2 ss tube four inches long with a move-able screen
In tuning the "distance to heat ratio" you find different depth penetration:
1) @70% I kept the herb 2" from the heater, and could load a bowl 3/4" deep, and pulling as hard as i could it would not combust and would toast the whole load.
2) At only 3/4" from the heat source I have to keep it turned down to 30%, and the depth is much shorter (but that's the trade-off I made to use a mini-whip instead of a homemade metal tube for a bowl)
i like to think of the flame of a candle being pulled by the wind, instead of pushed, and how far you can pull that heat bubble that surrounds the heater depends on how high it's turned up, and what's in the way. On most glass HC's there's a small hole the air gets sucked through, on the DBV which is more open you should be able to turn it up, move the herb farther away, and load bigger bowls, like when I used my ss tube open (before i stuck a washer in the tip).
i'm okay with the smaller loads since it more closely matches my intake pattern (3 puffs, walk away and forget its on for the next five hours)
I remember when I got it tuned just right and I could just pull so hard and it kept right up, really powerfull heater.
EDIT: my experience is only with the mini-whip and a 1/2 ss tube four inches long with a move-able screen
VWFringe
Naruto Fan
hey, anyone else who's using a soldering iron, do you think this would work?
instead of using a heater cover over the heating element,
what if a short pyrex tube were strapped directly to the heater with thick SS wire?
(the only portion that gets red on mine is in the middle, so i think I could safely twist some on the top and bottom)
instead of using a heater cover over the heating element,
what if a short pyrex tube were strapped directly to the heater with thick SS wire?
(the only portion that gets red on mine is in the middle, so i think I could safely twist some on the top and bottom)
2clicker
Observer
VWFringe said:
fringe... if the glass is touching the element then you may have problems. at one time i purchased some borosilicate tubes just i bit larger ID than my 456-16s heater. needless to say the glass and heater were in contact. within an hour of usage the pyrex tube shattered and peices of it were fused to the ceramic. i could not remove the glass from the element so i replaced it.
im not sure if the boro tubing i bought was too thin or what. i was attempting a homemade all glass vapor path hakko vape but couldnt make it happen. i was going to look into thicker tubing but never got around to it.
i'm guessing your heater expanded and that shattered the borosilicate -- i hesitate to say "pyrex" since that brand has been sold and cheapened. Borosilicate has virtually no expansion with heat -- something like 3.3x10^-7 cm/ (? from memory). i have my heater coil wrapped around and in direct contact with a 1.2mm thick borosilicate tube and there is no problem with the glass.
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
I think there is enough distance and he uses the other side of the wand... not the herb chamber.. so its even a herb chamber away from the heating element... . . It did work for mj properly.. It has a build in heat control... Best for mj i found to be the 300 C setting.. I guess thats the temperature of the tip... and 300 is hot enough to get the air right for vaping ...
He uses the part i marked with green for herb chamber.. And where the purple is... stands the screen...
"i'm guessing your heater expanded" Recently a friend tried a DIY vape and the same happend .. Metals do get expand when they are heated..
. . It did work for mj properly.. It has a build in heat control... Best for mj i found to be the 300 C setting.. I guess thats the temperature of the tip... and 300 is hot enough to get the air right for vaping ...
He uses the part i marked with green for herb chamber.. And where the purple is... stands the screen...
"i'm guessing your heater expanded" Recently a friend tried a DIY vape and the same happend
.. Metals do get expand when they are heated..
budballer
Well-Known Member
hey 2clicker! another question about the 556 lol. is the temperature control noticeably better then the old 456 and dimmer switch setup you had before? also do you know if the 556 uses an on/off type control or what? im just curious
oh and is the diameter of the heating element on the 556 closer to 1/8th or 1/4? i might jut get a 556 and put a SS sheath on it, with a washer base.. if the 556 has better temp control then a 70 watt cartridge heater with dimmer switch, i might be inclined to go hakko.
oh and is the diameter of the heating element on the 556 closer to 1/8th or 1/4? i might jut get a 556 and put a SS sheath on it, with a washer base.. if the 556 has better temp control then a 70 watt cartridge heater with dimmer switch, i might be inclined to go hakko.
Just been super busy with work lately but I've got a few days off so I think I'm going to take up this project again. Should have the 3rd edition of it by the end of the weekend
Does anyone know how the magic flight power adapter works. I'm very interested in attempting to make one of those myself as well
Any help or ideas would be great
Does anyone know how the magic flight power adapter works. I'm very interested in attempting to make one of those myself as well
Any help or ideas would be great
charliedontsurf
Medical
Delicatessen Vape-
So while I was looking at a post by our Spanish member Nine Delta, I noticed a unit listed in his signature with the name Delicatessen Vape. That obviously raised my eyebrows a bit, and after searching the thread specific section I found nothing. It appears to use a ceramic-type element in a glass tube to mate just surface to surface with the glass bowl, not using a GonG joint. It's very much a soldering iron with a glass shroud, but it seems to work well enough in this youtube though for sure: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqKNiqDvCeE
And is reasonable at 72 euro from this website: http://www.delicatessenglass.com/ep...hops/62546254/Products/"delicatessen vape 18"
Given that this forum is kind of a depository within which to enshrine all vaporizer knowledge, I think this vaporizer deserves at least a note, and thanks to Nine Delta for listing it in his signature.
Edit: here is a much more useful video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IWTUJ25OHw which shows how the shroud stays in place, and also shows it in use with both herbal and concentrates with some really awesome closeups provided.
So while I was looking at a post by our Spanish member Nine Delta, I noticed a unit listed in his signature with the name Delicatessen Vape. That obviously raised my eyebrows a bit, and after searching the thread specific section I found nothing. It appears to use a ceramic-type element in a glass tube to mate just surface to surface with the glass bowl, not using a GonG joint. It's very much a soldering iron with a glass shroud, but it seems to work well enough in this youtube though for sure: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqKNiqDvCeE
And is reasonable at 72 euro from this website: http://www.delicatessenglass.com/ep...hops/62546254/Products/"delicatessen vape 18"
Given that this forum is kind of a depository within which to enshrine all vaporizer knowledge, I think this vaporizer deserves at least a note, and thanks to Nine Delta for listing it in his signature.
Edit: here is a much more useful video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IWTUJ25OHw which shows how the shroud stays in place, and also shows it in use with both herbal and concentrates with some really awesome closeups provided.
