Underdog Log Vapes

underdog

shade-tree vapor engineer
Manufacturer
Glad you guys are liking the pieces so far.. :tup:

@ OTA - yeah the Blue Mahoe in lineup C is a single piece of wood, it's heartwood/sapwood which is why it's light/dark.
 
underdog,

OhTheAgony

here for the chicks
Cool, I never saw such a thick piece of the lighter BM wood.

Is the sapwood in the center of the stem or is it the wood closest to the bark btw?

I just have to say, I've never really been a fan of red colored woods myself, but that African milkwood sounds so dreamy I kinda want it :luv:
 
OhTheAgony,

underdog

shade-tree vapor engineer
Manufacturer
The sapwood is the outer most layers of wood with the heartwood being nearer to the center of the tree, there can be variations but that's basically the norm. More info than you ever wanted to know on the wiki page for wood: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood#Heartwood_and_sapwood

Most sawyers will cut away the sapwood when they are deciding how to mill a tree since most people only want heartwood. I like contrasting pieces of wood so I'm always on the lookout for pieces that have both heartwood and sapwood but it's tough to find. :cry:

Glad you like the Milkwood, it's a nice pinkish color with some neat (though subtle) grain.
 
underdog,

OhTheAgony

here for the chicks
Yeah, I like those contrast a lot too. Just dark BM can be pretty too, but it's a bit boring compared to when they come together just right imo. The light layer is very thin on my twig I think, a lot of the darker wood seems to come through it. It's like wavy blond hair on ebony skin.
 
OhTheAgony,

djonkoman

Well-Known Member
actually I'm kind of glad in the market for a new dog right now, because otherwise it would've been too hard to get my choice down to one this refresh....
usually one or 2-3 jump out, but this time I lost count of how many popped out
 
djonkoman,

sunsett70

Member
dave, in the pics, the darker color dogs like jacoba/walnut seem to have this shine/polish to it. is that the 'finish' for all UDs standard across the board? i am asking because my claro twig does not have the polished gloss look.
 
sunsett70,

underdog

shade-tree vapor engineer
Manufacturer
@ OTA - great minds think alike dude. ;-) Your BM piece is a real special piece of wood, the sapwood on it is really feathered into the heartwood so there's lots of streaking other neat effects. A lot of times the sapwood/heartwood border is a more defined edge instead of that streaking.

@ djonk - you lucked out this time lol, maybe next time I'll lure you back in.

@ sunsett - no there's not exactly a standard finish really. How I finish depends quite a bit on the wood species some are closed/tight grained and are very glossy while others won't become glossy no matter what you do. It also depends on the style of the piece and what I think might look good at the time I'm working on it. Lastly I'm constantly trying to improve my techniques and finish recipes so the finishes change pretty frequently as I experiment.
 

OhTheAgony

here for the chicks
Cool, I thought it was pretty normal for BM to look like this but I'll appreciate it even more now. Thanks for yet another lesson in wood-knowledge Dave :)

Hey Djonko, you still haven't tried this awesome new insulated core though
poke.gif


Sunsett, my BM twig has a mate finish. You can find 3 different pictures of it in my signature if you want to check it out :haw:
 
OhTheAgony,
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underdog

shade-tree vapor engineer
Manufacturer
@ OTA - nope your BM is on the rare high-end side of the spectrum, I'll try and remember to post a few different pieces for comparison one of these days.. like many woods there really is quite a difference in samples from the same species.

Speaking of woods and species I'm surprised no one has commented on the Spalted Tamarind piece yet, that's some fantastically nice wood but not a peep huh? It's the 2nd from the right in Lineup F. :shrug:

Hopefully all the pieces will be going up on the website tonight and then we should be able to resume online transaction instead of the manual ones that have been necessary. Yay automation! :science:

Alright back to the shop for some more welding before it gets hotter.
 
underdog,

djonkoman

Well-Known Member
that spalted tamarind was one of the dogs that barked at me, the walnut ones are all beauties too, and the african milkwood, and that oak one has some very nice eyes and lines, and the spalted maple ones, and the jatoba,...,:drool:,..
 
djonkoman,

underdog

shade-tree vapor engineer
Manufacturer
What do you want SS a coke can or an UD or an UD shaped like a coke can?

I can provide any and/or all of the above, whatever you want... :lol:
 
underdog,

bazzles

Member
I thought I broke my UD Twig for the longest time, and for some reason delayed my purchasing of a new power supply to check that. I'm kicking myself now, since I must now clean my pieces so that I can taste vapor and not the disgusting taste of tar. I quit combustion completely for about 6 months with the Underdog and now that it is back in action with my new power supply I will be starting my combustion free living again.
 

stickstones

Vapor concierge
Ill bet a vegan core could somehow be placed in a coke can...maybe even with room to store a stem!
 
stickstones,

Peloton

Vapes Hard
Hey Dave, would you see any problems with leaving the UD on 13.6v all the time? It's comfortable to hold still, but it definitely runs a notch or two warmer than with the stock supply. Thanks.
 
Peloton,

underdog

shade-tree vapor engineer
Manufacturer
Yeah that's going to run it a bit hotter than the stock supply.

The stock supply is unregulated so varies by input voltage and typically outputs between 13.25v and 13.75v with 13.4v to 13.5v being the norm. So I would imagine it would be ok but I'd have to leave it to your own judgement, maybe try it for a day that you're around to check on it periodically (if you haven't already done this) and see how you feel after a trial period.

If I had to make a guess I'd say it'd probably be fine, it might increase the wear and tear a bit but probably not by a real significant amount. :2c:

 
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underdog,
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djonkoman

Well-Known Member
I have mine on 13,5 a lot(temp I se for hash), and I leave it on there for longer periods too unless I go away for a bit longer, or the dog isn't on(I turn it off at night)
I've been doing this for a while(1-2 weeks?) now and it's still fine
 
djonkoman,

OhTheAgony

here for the chicks
Do make sure that it actually is 13,6V under load that it puts out Peloton.

If it's an unregulated PSU ratted for that voltage I wouldn't risk it if I were you, those are puppy-killers mang :uhoh:

I wouldn't leave it on 13,6V 24/7 though, but I got a bit more careful after putting my first dog to the ground perhaps.
 
OhTheAgony,

upperlevel

Well-Known Member
Cool, I thought it was pretty normal for BM to look like this but I'll appreciate it even more now. Thanks for yet another lesson in wood-knowledge Dave :)

Hey Djonko, you still haven't tried this awesome new insulated core though
poke.gif


Sunsett, my BM twig has a mate finish. You can find 3 different pictures of it in my signature if you want to check it out :haw:
Could you PLEASE tell me how you set up the glass with he screen on your glass piece? Maybe some links to products? Thanks!
 
upperlevel,
hey everyone thought I would run an idea past the pack and see if anything jumps. I usually grind my herbs and then dump them onto a tray and use a business card to sort of scrape into a line then divide the line into stem packs. They are not ever a uniform amount like other log type vapes who's stems have a capacity, the UD depends on how far your screen is and how much material as to how close you are to heat port ect. ect.

so

my idea is a sort of measuring cup device like a small block with holes drilled the depth of "my" normal stem pack size so I could just dump my ground herbs out and use the card again to scrape it across the holes making them all the same doses, my idea stemmed from a game of mancala and looking at the board just on a smaller scale.
 
Willuminati,

underdog

shade-tree vapor engineer
Manufacturer
@ upperlevel - what are you trying to do dude? Maybe I fried my brain in the heat today but your question has me all confused lol.

@ Will - cool idea, I think next time I have time I'll try and add a few holes for that purpose to my personal caddy and see how it works, thanks!
 
underdog,

OhTheAgony

here for the chicks
Are you referring to this picture perhaps Upperlevel?

minip1010977.jpg


If so then that's a GonG HI stem. It works well with the UD too, although it's a bit harder to get the last bits of vapor out of a smaller bowl with the UD than the HI. The open design of the HI allows it go in the stem deeper, you can get the heater port right against the screen with it if necessary.

Cookie also makes something similar for the Wychwood in case you happen to be in Europe.


Will, I get it, but just out of curiosity; why would you want to do that? Are you missing your cocaine days a bit perhaps? :lol:

If you want to make more consistent bowls you could just get a cheap scale instead, seems a little easier then getting the weed out of the drilled hole every time.

I developed a 'pinching system' myself. One pinch is enough for a small bowl (just enough to cover the screen), 2 pinches is a fairly decent bowl that produces thicker hits than nr one, & 3 is a bit of an overkill partybowl but oh so nice and it just seems to keep on going. I usually go for 3 :brow:
 
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