707vallejo707
NorCalLeftSideWe$tSide
Well mine failed me but I recently emailed them and Eric who runs the site said to send it back and he'd fix/replace it! I just sent it yesterday so let's see how long it takes.
Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates
- Thread starter sessnet
- Start date
Well mine failed me but I recently emailed them and Eric who runs the site said to send it back and he'd fix/replace it! I just sent it yesterday so let's see how long it takes.
Maybe venomous meant to just do this temporarily, but I suspect you mean either "jerry-built" or the common British WWII era pejorative term "gerry-rig" (which I grew up with) - these mean as best I understand "shoddy work" or work done with what is/was available. The term "jury-rig" is from temporary repairs to ships at sea. Didn't you say you worked with the Coast Guard?
I did work for the Navy, and learned not to say "boat" when it was a "ship" -NDA
OF
Well-Known Member
Maybe venomous meant to just do this temporarily, but I suspect you mean either "jerry-built" or the common British WWII era pejorative term "gerry-rig" (which I grew up with) - these mean as best I understand "shoddy work" or work done with what is/was available. The term "jury-rig" is from temporary repairs to ships at sea. Didn't you say you worked with the Coast Guard?
-NDA
No, I actually did mean what I said. The original term for 'making do with what you have (aboard)'. From the days of real ships with real sailors. Not the more modern day version, which some might take to be racist (hence the spelling).
It wasn't a comment on workmanship, jury rigging was a planned thing and done as well as possible, lives were at stake. It did have to do with being makeshift, less than ideal, and (most likely) temporary. Glad you know the difference.
While I never was a Blue Jacket (Coastie to the straights), I do know boats go onto ships as you point out. Like life boats on cruse ships. Quick trivia freaks, what's the only rope aboard?
OF
OF
Well-Known Member
Actually any vessel (technically). The only rope aboard is the bell rope, everything else is a line. As in 'heaving line', the one you use to haul the mooring lines from shoreside to tie up your curse ship? Good way to separate the serious Blue Water Sailors from the Landlubbers you know.......
Once the tied up, the vaping lamp is lit. At least on the better ships. Or boats for that matter. Motor, sail or oar. I've tried both ways, this one works better.
OF
Venomous
Well-Known Member
Maybe venomous meant to just do this temporarily, but I suspect you mean either "jerry-built" or the common British WWII era pejorative term "gerry-rig" (which I grew up with) - these mean as best I understand "shoddy work" or work done with what is/was available. The term "jury-rig" is from temporary repairs to ships at sea. Didn't you say you worked with the Coast Guard?
-NDA
He says it doesn't work, I'm saying it does.. Pc guys do it all the time to under volt the fan to kill noise. If a guy wants to Gerry rig himself a power supply to save money, it can be done with a pc power supply as was originally stated. Show me a real efficient power supply that is considered affordable. It's going to cost you a lot of money. I've seen people pull off some crazy shit to save money.. I wouldn't go this route personally, but when it comes to stoners I've known over the years, spending money outside of weed purchases get lowest priority.
OF
Well-Known Member
Of course that will work, there's a load on plus five Volts larger than the load you're adding. A situation I said had to exist to make it work. That fan won't run outside the computer most likely, for sure a several Amp load won't.....even if seven Volts was close enough to the required value (which I doubt?). As I said, this makes a bad situation worse, it's like a shunt regulator in that it will waste the power you're not using with you're not holding the button down. And more.
Not at all what you said. You can't just cobble up a loose PC supply this way, and I seriously doubt many are going to want to hack into their desktop computers?
I stick by my statement, for the reason I said, no current sink available.
Here's the one several of us were using with the Pipe's unit adapter. The Pipes unit is also an excellent, low cost efficient supply, even if 'dumb iron' and diodes:
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2144956_-1?CID=PDF
OF
aj0125
Well-Known Member
So I just got my revolution(window) adapter for my T1 and I have to say that I love it already. It came a little earlier than expected so the only things I had sitting around to test it on were some bubble and Volcano hashes. I got fat tasty hits right away and can't wait to try this with some wax. I do have a few questions about using the more solid concentrates in the revolution: How do you guys stir it? How do you guys clean the debris off the ceramic between loadings? I will boil it at the end of the night but I want to get some of the debris that is still on it off of it between loadings. How long is it safe to boil the ceramic core for? Thank you guys for your help with my favorite new toy.
Evry1concentrate
It's 7:10, maryjane you better concentrate.
Do a strait iso soak, then rinse well with warm water. Shake it out well, blow the water out from both sides with your mouth, like blow threw it. Connect it to the unit fire it up to get rid of any moisture, Attach the top here and there to pull air threw and cool it down to be safe, but do not fear that switch. These dudes made these fucking devices right. That little thing is a beast so don't be afraid to be kinda rough with it. The iso will break things up better than boiling water IME then i use a titanium dabber to get any real build up, its gonna get black though, no avoiding it. And i leave mine in the iso for as long as necessary, Ive had all the units for a while now, and they all work like day one.
aj0125
Well-Known Member
titanium dabber? Why do people soak in ISO before boiling? Do you have to rinse it out between ISO soak and boil(the boiling is rinsing it out right?)?
707vallejo707
NorCalLeftSideWe$tSide
The ISO breaks down the residue far better than just boiling it in water. Boiling it helps give it a good rinse after the ISO soak. I would check out Thermovape's YouTube channel to see a vid on how to clean the equipment. Also I've seen a tube/syringe set up to run the ISO trough the ceramic core, I might want to invest in that. Anybody got info on wht size tubing and syringe to get?
DreamTime
110100100
^^ It's 5/16 ID silicon tubing. it's was just some extra whip tubing from my Extreme Q
Since I posted about using a syringe, I purchase the ultrasonic cleaner that OF and a few other people recommended. Between warm ISO, the syringe, utlrasonic cleaning and heating the core for 5 minutes or so using the PA to burn off anything remaining, my Rev stays pretty clean.
Since I posted about using a syringe, I purchase the ultrasonic cleaner that OF and a few other people recommended. Between warm ISO, the syringe, utlrasonic cleaning and heating the core for 5 minutes or so using the PA to burn off anything remaining, my Rev stays pretty clean.
jmorales707
Well-Known Member
Hey guys smooth flow or pure flow for an lv dart?
Nic
Well-Known Member
Smooth is better, as the pure flow is too restrictive for the Dart judging by most folks' comments. I like just the regular old stainless tip myself.
OF
Well-Known Member
I usually stir through the window, sometimes looking in there, sometimes looking in the top as I do so. Sometimes, when it's otherwise hard to see, I look and stir from the top and point the window at the light. Obviously I pull the top off rather than just turn it around. I find it easier and less gets out when I put it back the same way (with the clean part back in the window).
I scoop out what will easily come up with the wooden toothpick I use to stir it with. I get it while still warm and gooey. Sometimes a second pass is in order. It'd be extremely careful about putting anything metal in there anywhere near the ceramic. It's really very frail at that level. It's mostly holes with very thin walls, like an old and very dry kitchen sponge, only brittle. I don't go poking at it, even gently with wood. I'm content with getting 95% of the old load out.
No time limit as long as it doesn't boil dry (a growing risk as you boil longer....). However, I figure you don't get much more past a few minutes. I usually go about ten minutes, as long as it takes to brew and drink a cup of tea.
OF
jpdnkstr
Well-Known Member
OF
Well-Known Member
I too found PF plugged fast on DART and was too hard to pull. You need some restriction in there it seems, TF alone might not offer enough, you might well need the DART tip or maybe just a 'UFO' from Evolution? Perhaps just the restricted mouthpiece from Revolution?
Good luck with your tests, please let us know what shakes out?
OF
Evry1concentrate
It's 7:10, maryjane you better concentrate.
I haven't puffed flowers in almost 2 years, but my TV evo shows today and i'm pretty psyched!
jpdnkstr
Well-Known Member
Thinking about getting a Tru-Flow UFO in Teflon to run right on top of my LV DART heating core! Thanks Of for making me look up UFO, I wasn't aware of this mouthpiece before. I have a standard short Teflon I have on it right now(to reduce length)but wouldn't mind the draw restriction I think the UFO might provide)
I'm running LV DART on Alpa Ultra(14500 AW IMR's) for an on the go mini WHOMPER! This thing fits in the palm of my hand and hits like a TI nail on a 15 arm Luke Wilson!
I'm running LV DART on Alpa Ultra(14500 AW IMR's) for an on the go mini WHOMPER! This thing fits in the palm of my hand and hits like a TI nail on a 15 arm Luke Wilson!
Evry1concentrate
It's 7:10, maryjane you better concentrate.
I actually have never boiled. And using the titanium dabber, i think i saw a post where OF mentioned, "be very carful poking around in there," and he's right, you don't want to be to rough with that element. Scroll back threw the forum a bit, and check out the oral syringe set up that was put together( don't know name of the guy off top of my head) I hope it was in this thread. Its a DIY that you can pick up the parts around town, that in my eyes is pretty fucking genius, and i will be buying these supplies tomorrow. It allows you to really force the iso threw the porous ceramic, supposedly bringing the element back to close to white. It makes complete sense. Try giving it a good iso soak for now, and agitation, and rinse well with warm water right from your faucet. People have mentioned many of there own techniques on here for drying, i blow, then shake the water out best i can, and hook it up to the t1 and evaporate the rest. I did see someone mention drying it with a hairdryer, which i also think would work very well. Dreamtime is who crated the dope ass cleaner syringe, there is a link here.
Personally I really like the PureFlow on my DART/Rev but it sounds like I'm a bit of an outlier on this one... I'm not a huge fan of the *lack* of restriction through the regular mouthpieces, and the water conditioning makes for some lovely thick clouds, even if its a bit of a harder pull. Quite a nice upgrade, in my view, from the Rev mouthpiece (which as you point out is more restrictive than the standard mouthpieces.) I will try my UFO on it tonight, I never really thought about it before...
707vallejo707
NorCalLeftSideWe$tSide
How does the PF, TF UFO, SF, differ as far as restriction and filtration? I wanna pick the best mouthpiece for my LV dart and I dont want one clogging it up.
kushcabbage
vapor nerd
I remember somewhere about cutting off the very top of the dart to stop oil wicking up the dart tip.. Anyone with this mod how well is this working for keeping the air holes on top cleaner and less oil wicking upwards?
Bob Loblaw
Astralnaut
it was havealight, iirc