d-limonene and extracting

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
SO I am slow, you are using the d-lim at the end of extract process and not as an extractant?
I think that is one question we are trying to answer :) It appears to me that d-limo will be useful for cleaning extracted oils, especially reclaims, and not as a primary solvent. I evaporated an ounce of it yesterday and the results were interesting. The d-limo vaporized on a warmer easily (148*F), however, the orange fumes are quite intense. It also increased in viscosity as the volume decreased, an unsuitable property imo.

Edit: I don't believe the fumes are a fire hazard, however, the orange smell goes from :) to :\ to :puke: very quickly. Its interesting because when the concentration became high enough the smell went from "orange" to "anise" an interesting interpretation by my brain . . .
 
t-dub,

Vapor2

Member
Thanks that doe help??? ;) will try a very small amt as a solvent both evaporated and full concentration then as a cleaner for first run/reclaim will try and minimize the overpowering Orange/Anise smell.

Will use one herb type and report back!

Peace

Paul

DBV - Volcano Classic - Solo (Pending)
 

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
Thanks that doe help??? ;) will try a very small amt as a solvent both evaporated and full concentration then as a cleaner for first run/reclaim will try and minimize the overpowering Orange/Anise smell. . . Will use one herb type and report back!

Please do! I was able to precipitate out that grit and tar ball using only a drop or two so I think using just enough to get the reaction is going to be key. I was also able to put a tiny amount on some herb in a crucible and vape it. It was ok for like the first 3 hits then it got too strong. No ill effects but I did have to clean my diffuser :D

Thanks and keep reporting back with results :tup:
 

Vapor2

Member
One can get stupid silly if you want to go all out, I can then test it heated to 175F through 200F both the d-lim and HO. Then do same at 40-60F :D think I will keep the temp variance out of the testing for now.

Love projects!!!!
 

jambandphan03

in flavor country
back home, had a great time, tired and recovering. I now have the d-lim , 2x 32oz bottles of 99% iso and a jar of dark black looking reclaim iso to evaporate. I will see what happens when I add a drop at a time to the dark reclaim oil, once mostly purged. I have an idea that maybe we can skip the second alcohol saturation to filter again, if the d-lim is added while there is still enough alcohol in the oil to keep it liquid enough to filter, but evaporated off enough that it's not as much volume of alcohol (if this make sense) I will try it in the next day or so, when I get time.
 

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
Has words I love to see, "GRAS" and "replacement for toxic solvents" :)

Nice score on the 99% :tup:

Any Pyrex coming?
 

Frederick McGuire

Aggressively Loungey
Haha, technically that ISO is a step down, the last stuff I was using was labelled at 100% :tup:

I'm just gonna use my big evap dish, as its already pyrex and is easier to setup a water bath for.
 
Frederick McGuire,
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jambandphan03

in flavor country
ok, decided to start the first reclaim experiment after all... have the alcohol reclaim filtered twice through coffee filters, now it's sitting in a stainless steel cup, on top of my coffee cup warmer, in the window evaporating. I will try to keep an eye on it, as it evaps, and see if I can catch it when there is about a 1/3 of the alcohol left, still liquid, but mostly gone. I want to see if adding a drop or two of the d-lim at that stage will have any effect. Right now it's probably about 1/2 cup full of the reclaim liquid. This is the darkest, nastiest reclaim liquid I have, so I am curious to see how well this works.

update:

Ok, there was maybe 1/8" of liquid in the bottom of the SS cup, so I took it off the coffee cup warmer, and added one drop at a time of the d-lim, up to 4 drops. Didn't notice much separating, but I went ahead and filtered it anyway, a little more of the sediment came out, but I don't think it did that much really. Conclusion is that the alcohol was still too saturated for it to work in small amounts. So now, I am just going to evap off the rest of the alcohol, and then take the oil and add a drop or two to that, and see what happens. I know this wasn't very controlled, I am really just testing out long shot ideas on reclaim I don't really care if I waste....

***
I waited until it was about 90% evaportated, and put one drop at a time, up to 4 drops in the mostly condensed oil, and still did not see much of a visible change. I had a splash of everclear left, so I put that on the oil, swished it around to get it mixed, then ran it through another coffee filter. The oil is slowly becoming more amber/redish gold looking, than the original black it started out. I did notice another layer of sediment in the last coffee filter. So it must be doing something to help separate the contaminants. I will let this evap off and see what my final product ends up looking like.


***

still on final purge of the first try. The oil has a very dark red tint to it, there is some orange smell still, 8 drops total were added to this batch. I suspect this jar of reclaim is from some previous combusted parts, mixed in. It has that ash/burned resin smell that bongs get after use for combustion. I don't know if I will call this one a success, or if I will even try to use this oil, but I did get the chance to mess around a bit to see if it would work while there is still solvent present.

I want to try again with some more recent vapor only reclaim, that doesn't stink. This time I think I will follow the original plan, make the first round of oil, purge, then add the d-lim once the oil settles, so I can minimize the amount added to maybe 2-3 drops if possible. I am working with such small amounts of oil, maybe a gram or less in the end product.
 

jambandphan03

in flavor country
:puke:

This first round is so nasty... def. from some old combusted left overs. I decided to wipe a bit on a hot nail just to smell it, and it was foul, stunk of resin from a pipe, with some orange undertones... going to be washing this one out with some iso... fail! OK, so what I was hoping for, was the d-lim would pull the really nasty stuff out, and leave only the oils behind. I guess this wash was too saturated with bad residue. Next try will be with some darker, but vape only reclaim/wash.
 
jambandphan03,

FLskwat

VAPOLITICS!
A small message to let know to the community I had a PM yesterday from T-Dub, willing to apologize about what happened on this thread!
Apologizes fully accepted on my side, and a big kudo to T for doing that!

We also were able to discuss in private and find "the roots" of our misunderstanding, so all good now and moving forwards!

Peace!
 

Frederick McGuire

Aggressively Loungey
I just saw a small Pyrex dish in my supermarket.

So now I've got pyrex for both my Evap dishes :)

Now I just have to get around to making that oil :lol:
 
Frederick McGuire,

Frederick McGuire

Aggressively Loungey
I made some ABV oil today.

I double lined a mason jar with cheesecloth, filled it with abv (probably around 25g), and filled it with enough ISO that the abv wasn't absorbing it.

I shook it up a bit, gave it about a minute or 2, and pulled out the cheesecloth.
Then I wrung out the cheesecloth, tossed the abv, poured the ISO into my evap dish, and rinsed out the mason jar.

I put in a few sprays of limo, and poured the ISO/limo into a coffee filter in my mason jar.


Once it had finished filtering, I poured it out into my (pyrex) evap dish, which I'd set up in a water bath (which could've been better, but got the job done) and started the evap.


I couldn't quite tell if the evap was done, since the oil seemed more runny than I was expecting, and still had a distinct citrus smell, but nothing much else seemed to be evaporating, so I tried to scrape it up.

Public Service Announcement:
Make sure your evap dish has straight edges, mine evidently has a subtle curve to it that means a razor wont sit flat to scrape up...:argh:

Eventually I ended up getting most of it up, I probably got around 0.5-0.7g, but didn't weigh it, even at room temp it's kinda runny (well, I can hold my dish upside down and it'll stay in, but I'd describe it's consistency as sorta pasty), and it's got a citrus smell to it.

I tried a few little dabs of it, the citrus wasn't as pronounced in the taste as the smell would indicate, but it was still there (I think, I'm gonna have another test dab in a minute :science:).

I'm not entirely sure if the limo helped, but I don't recall seeing that floating scum in the coffee filter before, it might've had something to do with that :shrug:

My verdict:
Further testing required :science:
 

jambandphan03

in flavor country
Thanks for doing the test Fred, this seems to add to my experience, adding the d-lim to the Iso didn't really change much, or make a noticeable difference aside from smell. The next test I want to do (maybe today) is to make the oil, get the iso evaporated, then add the d-lim. I suspect that the saturation of Iso thins out the d-lim too much, and makes it less effective, if any at all. I am hoping that the condensed oil, and d-lim will react differently. I have some ABV and a couple of jars of reclaim iso to tests with, so that will be my next step. After all, T-dub started his w/ just oil/d-lim to get his results. More than anything, my first attempt was to just rule out the d-lim working w/the iso step, so we could possibly avoid having to re-liquify and filter again after the fact. Did not work so good...
 

t-dub

Vapor Sloth
Thanks for doing the test Fred, this seems to add to my experience, adding the d-lim to the Iso didn't really change much, or make a noticeable difference aside from smell. The next test I want to do (maybe today) is to make the oil, get the iso evaporated, then add the d-lim. I suspect that the saturation of Iso thins out the d-lim too much, and makes it less effective, if any at all. I am hoping that the condensed oil, and d-lim will react differently. I have some ABV and a couple of jars of reclaim iso to tests with, so that will be my next step. After all, T-dub started his w/ just oil/d-lim to get his results. More than anything, my first attempt was to just rule out the d-lim working w/the iso step, so we could possibly avoid having to re-liquify and filter again after the fact. Did not work so good...
This is exactly what we need to figure out. It seemed to me, and this oil was hot from the mug warmer and a long purge, that when I added the d-limo it had an instant reaction and then it was done.
 
t-dub,

jambandphan03

in flavor country
That is what I am looking for T dub. I just thought since my first batch was with questionable reclaim, I would go ahead and rule the other idea out, so if it was a no-go, it wouldn't be a big loss for me. EEWW that stuff was nasty.
 
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t-dub

Vapor Sloth
That is what I am looking for T dub. I just thought since my first batch was with questionable reclaim, I would go ahead and rule the other idea out, so if it was a no-go, it wouldn't be a big loss for me. EEWW that stuff was nasty.
Yes, absolutely, you did some science there that NEEDED to be done and I/We thank you :tup:
 
t-dub,
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Papa Woody

"The vapor is strong with this one"-Obi Onda Woody
Interesting thread here guys! Very innovative.
Here is a link to a direct source of d-limo where you can get 55 gallon drums of it if you want that much.

http://www.d-limonene.com/

I use d-limo to clean old ski wax off ski and snowboard bases and its always does a great job of it.
 

jambandphan03

in flavor country
Experiment #2
Second darkest reclaim Iso I have... did the double filter and now purging on the coffee cup warmer...now waiting for the evaporation stage to complete.

iYtpd.jpg


buFaA.jpg


3JakY.jpg


DIAc8.jpg


We0Am.jpg


2hboC.jpg
 

smokum

I am who I am and your approval isn't needed!
Any chance you cld share a shot or two of the filter(s) after your pass ? I'd like to see what was caught (is that display following the adding of dl ? or pre ?).

Also, have you ever had the chance to check your liquid temp in the cup ? Just curious of the actual contact temperature of that mug heater conducted heat of the SS cup for knowledge sake.

Thanks for sharing...
 
smokum,

jambandphan03

in flavor country
We had a laser temp reader, but it crapped out on us recently, so right now I don't have a temp reading on the cup. My liquid is now oil, so I can't get a reading. I can put some water on there, and put the candy thermometer in there to see what it goes up to. I don't know if it would differ from Iso...

So far, my filters had a dingy layer of stuff in them, but that was pre-d-lim, so I don't know if it would matter. I can do a before and after pic of the oil when I add the d-lim, see what the reaction is, add more iso and filter again,then take a pic of the filter after d-lim.


**********

Oil after first evaporation, no d-lim added yet:

lD3d4.jpg



I added 2 drops of d-lim, did not notice any reaction from the oil, so I added a 3rd, no reaction, then a 4th, and decided to stop adding it. I stirred the oil/d-lim mix thoroughly. This was the result:

UkLOa.jpg



So I went ahead and added more 99% Iso

aux6A.jpg



I stirred it...

9nPmp.jpg


Filtered it...

XY6oq.jpg


This was all that was left on the filter: a few tiny balls of black and a light film on the filter paper...

okGqo.jpg


Mostly purged oil w/ d-lim added. Has faint orange smell. I plan to leave it on the warmer for a few more hours, to give it a good final purge. I am not sure at this time, if I will continue to add it to my reclaim. Maybe it works better for oils that have direct contact to plant matter, like ABV or green bud. That might be where this stuff shines. I am working with oils that have already been filtered down, or even purified by condensing and sticking to the glass.

KjvDP.jpg


:uhoh: Another BAD oil, put some on the nail to smell it, very unpleasant. OK, this was another questionable jar of dark Iso reclaim I was working with. I still think that the d-lim might be more useful with plant material based oil, instead of reclaim. So far 2 for 2, fail! I just don't know if I want to keep adding this stuff to my extracts until more positive results are found. :whoa:
 

smokum

I am who I am and your approval isn't needed!
Thanks for your experiment.........

Will be interesting to follow along others and 'their' findings for comparison sakes, and perhaps the difference with a raw material extraction to quantify adding yet another substance to the mix.
 
smokum,

BL4ZE

Well-Known Member
Not meaning to go off topic but since some of guys seem to know a bit about this stuff, is it safe to use for glass cleaning?
 
BL4ZE,

ru_frothi

Portable Vaporist
BTW: Interesting thread guys... Keep up the expirements.

Right . . . lets be scientific, well if you READ the links I provided it gives a HUGE scientific insight as to what these guys are doing and why. I say again, if you understand CA law, and what these guys are doing you can put together a thought experiment, in your mind, that will allow you to understand what they are doing and why. They say their process takes 3 weeks. Why? INFUSION, and they admit to using grape seed oil. So. They are starting with bubble hash and then using a 3 week infusion to grape seed oil, then probably refining with some kind of alcohol wash, d-liomo, and centrifuge and filtration action, maybe even through activated carbon granules . . .

The point of all of this is to examine the organic chemistry involved and see if we can improve our medicine with it. :peace:

I think you have the part about the California law wrong and them using cold water hash as a starting point. They start with crappy BHO that someone else violated the law when making and then tetra labs refines it. This is straight off their website...

http://tetralabs.com/puregold_technical.php

BTW: I like the citrus flavor in the pure gold. I prefer it to the non d-limonene version of PureGold. I would also add I do believe PG is the finest extract I have ever tried. NitroOG might have been a close second but that stuff is no more.... Nothing else comes close... I can feel the difference of the purity in my lungs and breathing.


Making Pure Gold:

Many cannabis dispensaries feature cannabis concentrates alongside their cannabis flower products. Concentrates are commonly known as "hash" or "hash oil." The PureGold process starts with commercial "hash oil," or cannabis resin. We remove solid materials such as mold, insect parts, cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin. We also remove man-made impurities such as pesticides, fungicides and herbicides. And we remove undesirable plant products such as fats, waxes, flavonoids, pectins, chlorophyll and tar. We select certain classes of terpenes and terpenoids that are known to have therapeutic effects, and reject others that have no therapeutic value. What's left is a highly purified concentrate that consists of 95% cannabinoids in their natural proportions and 5% therapeutic sesquiterpenes.
Even when the refining process has been completed, the result still is not ready to be called PureGold. As a final step, we have each lot rigorously tested by independent laboratories. Only after it has passed our demanding quality control screening can our key ingredient bear the name PureGold. We don't just claim to make pharmaceutical-grade cannabis products.
The following diagram shows an idealized view of common cannabis flower contents along with their relative proportions. The active ingredients — cannabinoids and sesquiterpenes — comprise less than 20% of the total. All the rest is extraneous material.
 
ru_frothi,
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