Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates

JoeKickass

JoeKickass

Well-Known Member
So I keep getting oil out the bottom holes when I dab new oil, what's the official procedure for maximum performance while keeping everything clean?

I try to vape as much as I can from the previous fill, get the dab ready on the dart, heat the chamber for like 15s, close the dab/top, and inhale pretty slowly. But it seems like this might not be ideal?

Sometimes it gurgles, and I have a feeling that the oil is running down into the heater when I'm holding the button getting ready for the next draw.
 
JoeKickass,
NewSchoolExplorer

NewSchoolExplorer

Active Member
I had that issue with my Rev after a ISO wash and cleaning and my first time using some really thin Co2 oil.
It was vaping out the bottom (no leaks) but to solve this issue I simply put some super high grade full melt bubble called water extracted oil which leaves behind a very minimal residue to act as an additional level.


Also cooling the oil makes its more closer to a solid and heating brings it closer to a liquid. From solid to liquid to gas with temp. Cooling it might make it easier for handling
 
NewSchoolExplorer,
JoeKickass

JoeKickass

Well-Known Member
NewSchoolExplorer said:
I had that issue with my Rev after a ISO wash and cleaning and my first time using some really thin Co2 oil.
It was vaping out the bottom (no leaks) but to solve this issue I simply put some super high grade full melt bubble called water extracted oil which leaves behind a very minimal residue to act as an additional level.


Also cooling the oil makes its more closer to a solid and heating brings it closer to a liquid. From solid to liquid to gas with temp. Cooling it might make it easier for handling
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm using that Casey Jones oil :D What's your technique though?

Preheat for the dab, take the hit and then do you heat it or let it cool while holding the first hit?
 
JoeKickass,
NewSchoolExplorer

NewSchoolExplorer

Active Member
I currently have .7g of Sour Diesel Co2 oil but honestly did not feel like it compares to the flavor and potency of a properly made and purge BHO extraction.

Sorry for the late reply but if you have any other thicker concentrates or less quality, one that leaves behind a minute amount of residue, on hand simply use those. Place a small amount of the thicker oil in first. Turn the heat up and let it melt into the center. Then place your thinner oil in so that residue/thick oil soaks up the oil and acts like a barrier. (I apologize if my writing is error-ed as I am way above cloud nine :ko: )
 
NewSchoolExplorer,
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SameOldTim

SameOldTim

Previously Known as 'ThermoCoreTim'
Manufacturer
JoeKickass said:
So I keep getting oil out the bottom holes when I dab new oil, what's the official procedure for maximum performance while keeping everything clean?

I try to vape as much as I can from the previous fill, get the dab ready on the dart, heat the chamber for like 15s, close the dab/top, and inhale pretty slowly. But it seems like this might not be ideal?

Sometimes it gurgles, and I have a feeling that the oil is running down into the heater when I'm holding the button getting ready for the next draw.
Click to expand...

While the DART is great to do dabs, you may not be getting the full effect. Try introducing enough material into the core so that is fully soaks into the top ceramic. When the material is fully soaked in you will have more surface area to vaporize it. This should also reduce warm-up times and give better clouds.


Cheers,

Tim
 
SameOldTim,
chucku

chucku

Charles Urbane
At the risk of asking something stupid or previously addressed. Last night I ordered a TV T1 kit. From the illustrations of the heater core and the integrated screen above, it appears the holes are a little on the largeish side. Does this rule out using the fine, 2 piece grind favored for the MFLB? Would my 4 piece SC be better suited for this device?
 
chucku,
G

greenbean

Member
I just ordered a DART LV. I plan on using it on a variable voltage device and am under the impression that ThermoVape tests their LV products at around 4.1V.

I do not want to run it out of spec, but I'm wondering if it's OK to use it regularly at say, 4V instead of 3.7V and further, if I should run it at 4 or maybe even 4.1 for best performance.

I went for the LV instead of the regular DART on the logic that if it works best on a fully charged battery I could get better performance on an LV at 4.0V than a standard DART at 6.0V (my device's limit). Is this reasonable or should I return it for a 6V DART?
 
greenbean,
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
greenbean said:
I just ordered a DART LV. I plan on using it on a variable voltage device and am under the impression that ThermoVape tests their LV products at around 4.1V.

I do not want to run it out of spec, but I'm wondering if it's OK to use it regularly at say, 4V instead of 3.7V and further, if I should run it at 4 or maybe even 4.1 for best performance.

I went for the LV instead of the regular DART on the logic that if it works best on a fully charged battery I could get better performance on an LV at 4.0V than a standard DART at 6.0V (my device's limit). Is this reasonable or should I return it for a 6V DART?
Click to expand...

I'd be more concerned about your supply's current limit. What is it? You need something like six amps to be safe. FWIW, I think TV does the bulk of their testing with their supplies using 17670s and IMR14500s. For sure that's what I used for the most part with Beta testing the Revolution LV cart from which DART is made. So testing actually takes place over the entire working range of voltages you see.

If it were me, I'd start at 3.6 Volts because that's what a mostly charged (4.0 Volts) 14500 delivers to that unit under load. That's close to the average voltage the device sees when driven by the smaller of the factory supplies. The others will be a few tenths higher. None will deliver 4.1 Volts under load. Depending on how your VV is built it could easily drive harder than you think.

I'd be more concerned by the current issue first, however.

OF
 
OF,
G

greenbean

Member
OF, I was under the impression that the Revolution runs <10W and the LV has been metered at around 1.5 Ohm. I'm using a ProVari V2 (or at least intend to) so this ought to work out if that's the case.

Your bit about loaded voltage is part of the reason I'm asking. I'll probably ask ThermoVape what they recommend via email.
 
greenbean,
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
greenbean said:
OF, I was under the impression that the Revolution runs <10W and the LV has been metered at around 1.5 Ohm. I'm using a ProVari V2 (or at least intend to) so this ought to work out if that's the case.

Your bit about loaded voltage is part of the reason I'm asking. I'll probably ask ThermoVape what they recommend via email.
Click to expand...

Well AFAIK Revolution and DART are the same below the ceramic. The two body pieces differ but the threaded insert, all three ceramic pieces, the heater coil and mouthpiece are the same.

OF
 
OF,
G

greenbean

Member
Er, uh, are you sure you aren't confusing it with the Evolution? Any chance you could grab a resistance reading of a Rev LV sometime?
 
greenbean,
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
greenbean said:
Er, uh, are you sure you aren't confusing it with the Evolution? Any chance you could grab a resistance reading of a Rev LV sometime?
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm at least pretty sure I know the difference. I'm looking at all three right now, they're different all right. In broad terms T1 is 30 Watts, Evolution 20, and Revolution/Dart 10. Big differences. No T1 in LV yet. In LV, both DART and Revolution work OK on supplies that will drive 1.5 Ohm Omicron carts, although V2 is kinda lame at high current, as has been discussed, and won't run DART of Revolution well at all. I've done that too. Evolution will not work there (again, I tried).

And finally, no, sorry, I don't expect to make that reading for you any time soon.

OF
 
OF,
G

greenbean

Member
OF said:
Yes, I'm at least pretty sure I know the difference. I'm looking at all three right now, they're different all right. In broad terms T1 is 30 Watts, Evolution 20, and Revolution/Dart 10. Big differences. No T1 in LV yet. In LV, both DART and Revolution work OK on supplies that will drive 1.5 Ohm Omicron carts, although V2 is kinda lame at high current, as has been discussed, and won't run DART of Revolution well at all. I've done that too. Evolution will not work there (again, I tried).

And finally, no, sorry, I don't expect to make that reading for you any time soon.

OF
Click to expand...

I guess all I have to say is... lol? The ProVari V2 will throw 10W all day. Not sure about the 'tude, you said the Rev LV draws 6A and that's clearly not right...
 
greenbean,
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
greenbean said:
I guess all I have to say is... lol? The ProVari V2 will throw 10W all day. Not sure about the 'tude, you said the Rev LV draws 6A and that's clearly not right...
Click to expand...

That's not what I said did I? I said 'to be safe'; is six Amps unsafe for any (current) TV product? You know, guys have been loosing VV supplies with driving TV products which is why I suggested starting there. Less than six, care is advised. The unit you're looking at says it's good for 3.5 Amps so it should be fine for DART and Revolution but not for Evolution.

Your assumptions otherwise were somewhat off, I tried to correct them.

To answer your question once again, yes, I'm fairly sure I know what I'm talking about. DART and Revolution are basically the same electrically. But feel free to ignore it.

OF
 
OF,
G

greenbean

Member
Sure, 6A is enough but hardly necessary for a 2.5A load. I asked if you were thinking of the Evolution since a device capable of 6A is necessary appropriate for that.

Thanks for setting me straight I guess, but you haven't told me anything I didn't already know.

edited because you can get away with 5A, but I personally think 6A is a good baseline for an Evo LV power source based on what we know of its load characteristics.
 
greenbean,
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
greenbean said:
Sure, 6A is enough but hardly necessary for a 2.5A load. I asked if you were thinking of the Evolution since a device capable of 6A is necessary for that.

Thanks for setting me straight I guess, but you haven't told me anything I didn't already know.
Click to expand...

I'm really sorry I bothered you then, I'll try not to do so again.

To repeat, please feel free to ignore me.....

OF

Edit: I'm sorry, my manners are slipping, you're welcome. Even if you're guessing. Please tell me, does that not telling you anything you didn't already know include the part about DART and Revolution being basically the same....or are they? Or what the actual delivered voltage was? OF
 
OF,
G

greenbean

Member
OF said:
Edit: I'm sorry, my manners are slipping, you're welcome. Even if you're guessing. Please tell me, does that not telling you anything you didn't already know include the part about DART and Revolution being basically the same....or are they?
Click to expand...

It sure does. I was never talking about anything but the DART/Rev. You're coming out of left field with talks of T1s and Evolutions. Notice the thread title? If you need proof my question used DART and my initial response to you used Revolution.

Or what the actual delivered voltage was? OF
Click to expand...

This post from Tim is pretty informative. I may be giving TV too much credit but I'm assuming they probably treat the Rev cores with similar care. On the assumption that the 30/20/10W numbers are the actual design target I'd guess that the previously metered 1.5 ohms is from a cold core, that the resistance once heated probably increases to ~1.7 ohms, and that the Rev draws 10W at ~4.1V under TV's conditions.

e: Don't miss his follow-up.
 
greenbean,
SameOldTim

SameOldTim

Previously Known as 'ThermoCoreTim'
Manufacturer
At Thermo Essence Technologies we are always working towards developing a product that fits our customer’s needs, your input is what shapes our innovative products and accessories.

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Give us 1-3 contacts and you’ll get 15% off your next order!

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Contacts MUST include: contact name, store/shop name, Phone #, e-mail address, postal address, shop type, and other vaporizers already carried.

Submit entries to info@thermovape.com

Cheers,
Tim
 
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NewSchoolExplorer

NewSchoolExplorer

Active Member
I have been using my Rev on a daily basis and have a lot of instances where the oil jumps to the sides, making a circle around the heating element inside and vaporization comes to a halt. I usually have my HE Titanium dabber with me to get the oil in the corners back into the center. BTW I usually pre-load before I am out and let it fully soak into HE and place a little more on top. Have you guys come across a method to solve or minimize this occurrence?
 
NewSchoolExplorer,
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
NewSchoolExplorer said:
I have been using my Rev on a daily basis and have a lot of instances where the oil jumps to the sides, making a circle around the heating element inside and vaporization comes to a halt. I usually have my HE Titanium dabber with me to get the oil in the corners back into the center. BTW I usually pre-load before I am out and let it fully soak into HE and place a little more on top. Have you guys come across a method to solve or minimize this occurrence?
Click to expand...

I used to get it a lot until Tim suggested I was loading too much at one time. He suggested I try cutting back and I've never looked back again. When low I put about 50 mg in, never more than 100. Enough for 6 or 8 stout hits, but not a lot. My take on it is it now heats faster so the vapor is pulled off and out (into me...) rather than condense again on the walls just above the heater in the 'fog bank' trying to form as the core slowly heats. It doesn't drain down as well as with DART (which should also not be overloaded) as the latter has less of a lip.

I find a wooden toothpick to be the ideal tool for poking at it, but the best plan is to not load enough for it to happen. The hits are faster, easier to control and the oil doesn't get cooked as much before evaporating off.

In a couple of cases, while testing cores, I've got 'em so fowled up I had to clean them and start over. Best to avoid that if you can IMO as you loose some concentrate. I'd keep scraping it down until you vape it all away then add a small bit more and see where you are.

Good luck.

OF
 
YoGranMazPimp

YoGranMazPimp

I Vapes Hard
Got my rev yesterday and did its tester run and wow was i amazed with the hits and the flavor. Its nice to get a few hits off what i previously used as one dab. I had the issue with the oil on the sides not running down to the element, but ill try loading less after reading the above post. Its the most amazing little device, i couldnt put it down. It does get kinda sticky on the door but im used to it messing with concentrates and have a rag nearby for that. Now i cant wait to accessorize this thing!
 
YoGranMazPimp,
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JoeKickass

JoeKickass

Well-Known Member
I asked about oil leaking out the bottom holes. So I tried the thickest oil I have.

The only difference I can tell is that now things are stickier and harder to seperate than they were with the thin oil... in other words, this shit still leaks:
Zkp5C.jpg

Yeah, dropping it on the floor and getting it covered in pet hair was reeaal nice...

It actually diarrhea'd all over my ultra first (forgot to take a pic) so after cleaning it up I moved to the univ. adapter on the Persei,

the pic above was just a hint:
ApjqM.jpg


I don't know what the deal is but it seems to me like TV hasn't designed any kind of baffle or trap system at all. If the oil goes past the ceramic, it will go out the bottom...

As you can see my ceramic has nearly invisibly small gaps:
q1K1J.jpg
yet no matter what draw or heating technique I use... adding any amount of oil always results in some amount coming out the bottom holes. I have no idea how people have put half or full grams in these little things, they seem to be more leak prone and attention-needing then omicarts in my experience so far...

Unless I have some great epiphany, I just can't see any reason to take these TV products out of their extended iso bath...

(Evo is the only thing working for me from them...)
 
JoeKickass,
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
JoeKickass said:
As you can see my ceramic has nearly invisibly small gaps:
yet no matter what draw or heating technique I use... adding any amount of oil always results in some amount coming out the bottom holes. I have no idea how people have put half or full grams in these little things, they seem to be more leak prone and attention-needing then omicarts in my experience so far...

Unless I have some great epiphany, I just can't see any reason to take these TV products out of their extended iso bath...

(Evo is the only thing working for me from them...)
Click to expand...

Joe, I think you're loading way too much in there. If there's enough to leak out at all, I'd say that's at least a possibility, don't you? Very few, if any, of the other users are having this level of issue.

The gaps you point to are a feature. Designed in. If you check back you'll find Tim (I think) from TV explaining it's to make up for the small bit of air that comes in the window on Revolution. They serve the same function as the air inlet cut on the top of MFLB in that it allows the vapor to be swept out. It is not poor workmanship or QC or design. Mine has it, in fact being a prototype it has a larger gap on only one side. It is not the problem.

From fresh clean I put no more than 150 mg in to start, and add in 50 mg or so bits, never more than 100. The reservoir is just not that big. You can see the top plate (probably most of it) it's maybe 1/16 inch thick? The ring is tiny and mostly hole as the heater sits in the center. Four drops will flood it. Gravity is going to pull the hot liquid down if it's not absorbed.

OF
 
JoeKickass

JoeKickass

Well-Known Member
OF said:
Joe, I think you're loading way too much in there. If there's enough to leak out at all, I'd say that's at least a possibility, don't you? Very few, if any, of the other users are having this level of issue.

The gaps you point to are a feature. Designed in. If you check back you'll find Tim (I think) from TV explaining it's to make up for the small bit of air that comes in the window on Revolution. They serve the same function as the air inlet cut on the top of MFLB in that it allows the vapor to be swept out. It is not poor workmanship or QC or design. Mine has it, in fact being a prototype it has a larger gap on only one side. It is not the problem.

From fresh clean I put no more than 150 mg in to start, and add in 50 mg or so bits, never more than 100. The reservoir is just not that big. You can see the top plate (probably most of it) it's maybe 1/16 inch thick? The ring is tiny and mostly hole as the heater sits in the center. Four drops will flood it. Gravity is going to pull the hot liquid down if it's not absorbed.

OF
Click to expand...

Yeah I was afraid of that, I find small dabs result in rather whimpy hits and I'll have to reload during a sesh. What's worse is that once the dart heats up it doesn't hold oil on anyway.

So the only way I have found of using it satisfactorily was preloading a large dab when cold, which is always messy. And I was actually saying the gap around the ceramic is very small, which I thought would have kept the majority of stuff above until vaped, but as you said, once the oil gets hot it just drops and you cant suck it up.
 
JoeKickass,
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