Discontinued ThermoVape

weedemon

enthusiast
nice job dude! :) so how do you activate it? just slide the nub up to make contact? is there any way i could rish zapping myself? like if i touched certain parts of it while it's on?
 
weedemon,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
nice job dude! :) so how do you activate it? just slide the nub up to make contact? is there any way i could rish zapping myself? like if i touched certain parts of it while it's on?
Quite simple, just put it in the same as you would for batteries but without the sleeve feeding the "pig tail" down through the slot opening.
Screw the T1 or REV on and then plug in the pig tail. No fear of been shocked as voltage is too low. Modifications done inside the power block have not altered any safety components but has changed the output waveform characteristics only.
For some reason Photo Bucket isn't letting me copy pics right now.
Will a bit later.
:/
 
Pipes,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
it is not button activated right? you simply make contact? as in just slide it up like the normal way to activate it?
Cool, thanks.
No button, uses the same method as batteries. Adapter is shorter then battery holder allowing the pig tail to hang out. Rear of slider is actually plastic moulding and makes it more comfortable from the heat. The adapter casing is designed for connector application and therefore a very good conductor. I also used connector type pieces to make the contact which replaces the battery head. All in all, works great and very simplistic.
Enjoy.
 
Pipes,

PB88123

Vaporist
i'd also like to know this. we have a fellow board member who is pioneering it. but i havent (but maybe have missed it) seen TV comment on pipes work regarding the new PA he is planning on making for us.

can you plz weigh in on it for us? you are working on a PA yourselves right?


TV said this a month ago, "mvapes: Yes, we have made progress! We are working on this daily... we are now prototyping! It will be coming as a T1/Rev accessory in the not too distant future, although the leaves may be changing color by the time we have thoroughly tested and optimized the unit. It is not a passthrough adapter, it's better."
 

NewSchoolExplorer

Active Member
Another great addition would be multiple heat settings: low, medium, high

This would allow users that want a more visible vapor to go for the high and those that want longer sessions to use the low setting and inhale slower to find the optimal vapor production.
 
NewSchoolExplorer,

OF

Well-Known Member
Another great addition would be multiple heat settings: low, medium, high

This would allow users that want a more visible vapor to go for the high and those that want longer sessions to use the low setting and inhale slower to find the optimal vapor production.

Boy, this doesn't work for me. The thermal core is way hotter than 400 degrees, I draw enough hot air from there to heat to the load to the temperature I'm interested in (although I don't know what that is in degrees, of course). More air, more heat. Cool the core off and you'll just need to pull more volume of cooler air in to get the heat. At least that's what I'd do.

How are you using it?

OF
 
OF,

NewSchoolExplorer

Active Member
Honestly I rarely use the T1 as the battery life and my needed amount does not make this as practical as others but when I am using the device I heat it up to temperature and than inhale starting slow and increase my intake gradually until I reach that perfect state and towards the end of my draw I let off the switch and quickly inhale the last bit of retained heat.

Also I think its the opposite, less air, more heat. (Obviously their an equilibrium point of air-heat efficiency. Inhale too much will cause the air to not get as hot during conduction heat transfer)
 
NewSchoolExplorer,

OF

Well-Known Member
Also I think its the opposite, less air, more heat. (Obviously their an equilibrium point of air-heat efficiency. Inhale too much will cause the air to not get as hot during conduction heat transfer)

Ah, so! That explains it I think, we're using the device differently. You're drawing heat off as it's produced, slow down and you get less volume but warmer like the MFLB. I, OTOH, am taking Tim's advice and 'letting it run' until it's nearly maximum temperature before drawing air off, the air enters the bowl hotter than needed to vape, not cooler as it does the other way around. The clue is the rule is reversed the way I'm doing it. Slow down and it cools off. Stop and it really cools off, unlike MFLB which goes overtemp if you do that.

Thanks for the additional info.

OF
 
OF,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Another great addition would be multiple heat settings: low, medium, high

This would allow users that want a more visible vapor to go for the high and those that want longer sessions to use the low setting and inhale slower to find the optimal vapor production.
This is possible but not practical as would be an equation for overheating as the tendency would be to crank r up. Would for sure end up in a burnt out heater cores.
Playing with the output can get quite complex at these current levels. Would likely be easier to dick with the input. Really don't want to go there. I actually had to take the output down a notch as it was running a little hot. Found adding a second diode brought it down appropriately 4.5 watts. The transformer I used was putting out about 33 - 34 watts and I needed to distribute some power. Adding a second diode did the trick and now runs around 28 - 30 Watts. These numbers are taken from scope measurements and calculations. Not as straight forward as DC. I used the transformer's iron as a heat sink for the rectifier diodes.
A couple more pics on how the pig tails works.
P1030634.jpg

P1030635.jpg

I have put together another one and will order more transformers to make more.
:science:
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
I thought I'd post a couple more shots to answer some wonderings regarding workmanship and quality parts. The connector material meets Broadcasting Standards as does the actual contact. The contact is from another different audio patch field connector which of course meets Broadcast Standards as well. The moulding is designed to hold up to heat from a soldering iron and has shown absolutely no signs of deforming or smelling at all with testing repetitive loads.
P1030648.jpg

P1030650.jpg

P1030644.jpg

P1030645.jpg

P1030646.jpg


Does anyone have a preference as to the length of the pig tail? I made it short as to be just long enough to clear the device while holding but on the fence as to make a little longer.
P1030652.jpg


Another question arising is a Car adapter. Well. I have not experimented here but think a simple Canadian Tire DC-AC converter would work with this adapter. Would not even need to be that big. Even 50 Watt should be good. Now the bad news (I think) As far as I know these converters usually simulate AC with a square wave and I'm not sure how that would react on the overall output. The rectified AC methed rely s on a sign wave AC. A "true" AC converter should be fine. Square wave? Maybe higher, lower or same. If anyone has some knowledge on these units could jump in.

I have to take a second to thank OF as he was my inspiration on using AC rather then DC to save costs and vastly simplifying getting power to this puppy. Started off just wanting to make for myself, but in searching the solution just came to be so simple and right down my lane, and not a hell of a lot more work so pending fleebay's outcome I might just run with it as material connections for me were already in place. So how do you thank someone who's basic concept might lead to a full tank of gas?

Just a un-confirmed concept here of my own. We all seemed to have had issues regarding twisting the battery chamber to get element to fire. (Switch stall effect?) Now here's my logic. Feel free to correct me here as just theorizing. Think of the higher the voltage the easier and further it can jump like lightning. Also. obvious with the amount of insulation needed as voltage goes up. Now let's go the other direction, low voltage high current. Seems the lower you go the less insulator it takes to stop current flow. Even skin oils or smaller then the eye can see mater, greases or oxidation. I lean towards greases as the gremlin for me because notice more after I've been playing with my e-juices. So in this light I think running 12 V half to time rather then 6 V all the time should improve this.
Again this is all just IMO.

I am going to put together a though review of this product once really embraced all of its glory. Truthfully not really impressed as an e-cig but it is what it is. No comment on the REV as still waiting. I'm sure it will go down in the books like the Zippo Lighter, IOlite or the iphone. OK pushing it there.

:)
 

exmilker

Well-Known Member
has anyone tried the thermovape glass adapter? cant find much on that topic if so what would u guys rate it out of 5 and is it possible to achieve super thick vapor with the thermovape+glass adapter?
 
exmilker,

PB88123

Vaporist
has anyone tried the thermovape glass adapter? cant find much on that topic if so what would u guys rate it out of 5 and is it possible to achieve super thick vapor with the thermovape+glass adapter?

I've been using it for over a month and works as expected. 5/5 perfect seal. As to how thick the vapor is I've watched the solo videos posted recently and those can really milk a tube. The TV still does a good job and I take around 4 hits and I'm good. Take a look. This was the 3rd hit in a row.

 
PB88123,

Splather

Well-Known Member
Hello all, long time lurker, signed up so I could just post a quick one about how nice the guys at TV were. Sorted out reasonable shipping prices (not sure why but the website seemed to think I was on the moon), clever labelling to keep customs duty down, and an all-round pleasant and efficient service.

Oh, and I got an extended mouthpiece, gratis. :clap:

Just about to put it through its paces shortly. Cheers!
 
Splather,

OF

Well-Known Member
Hello all, long time lurker, signed up so I could just post a quick one about how nice the guys at TV were. Sorted out reasonable shipping prices (not sure why but the website seemed to think I was on the moon), clever labelling to keep customs duty down, and an all-round pleasant and efficient service.

Oh, and I got an extended mouthpiece, gratis. :clap:

Just about to put it through its paces shortly. Cheers!

Good to meet you, and agree fully with you about the TV guys.

Now that you're here, please speak your mind, folks are really interested.....

OF
 

VolcAnTV

Well-Known Member
You will be a happy camper. If possible could you report back your opinions on it?
Good deal.
:smug:
Indeed. Super glad im able to be an early adopter. Thanks so much again.

To anyone else who couldnt for any reason win one of pipes PAs and wanted to, ...sorry. A couple of us got a steal of a deal so good luck for the next round.
 
VolcAnTV,

Splather

Well-Known Member
Good to meet you, and agree fully with you about the TV guys.

Now that you're here, please speak your mind, folks are really interested.....

OF

Well, got through all 6 batteries last night :). So far I'm really impressed - really solid piece of kit, seems well made and thought out. Wish the batteries lasted longer, but I might just have to get some spares for those longer sessions - they appear to be difficult to find in the UK, but que sera sera.

Only ever had one vape before - the Vaporstar, which I liked but moved away from due to the inhalation of butane exhaust fumes. Similar sort of technique with the TV though, in that you need to draw *very* gently to allow the heat to build at first, then you can go wild once it's got itself together. One slight combustion at the end of a little session, put that down to inexperience and greed.

All in all a very capable and effective bit of kit IMHO, love it (and the fact that it looks like a lightsaber when you take the mouthpiece off doesn't do any harm either). Now just waiting for my SpaceCase to arrive from PIU*, and I'll consider myself set, until TV drop a mains adapter... ;)

Splath

*Would have used EDIT but they've had some very bad reviews of late, plus with the FC discount it was cheaper to get it shipped internationally!?! UK retailers - there's a lesson to be learned here.
 
Splather,

OF

Well-Known Member
Well, got through all 6 batteries last night :). So far I'm really impressed - really solid piece of kit, seems well made and thought out. Wish the batteries lasted longer, but I might just have to get some spares for those longer sessions - they appear to be difficult to find in the UK, but que sera sera.

Only ever had one vape before - the Vaporstar, which I liked but moved away from due to the inhalation of butane exhaust fumes. Similar sort of technique with the TV though, in that you need to draw *very* gently to allow the heat to build at first, then you can go wild once it's got itself together. One slight combustion at the end of a little session, put that down to inexperience and greed.

Howdy!

Thanks for the information, it's kind of a treat to hear such stuff from 'the Mother Country'. I know what you mean about plowing through the batteries. It's hard to discipline yourself to immediately put the ones you've just flattened in the charger for next time....at least it is for me. I tend to get distracted you see?

Be very careful, there's a very similar battery from the same maker (different color) rated at 900 mAh that will not work. You want the 750 version of that model from that maker only. Different chemistry.

I've had the pleasure of meeting the makers and seeing their shop, your estimate of them and what they do is spot on.

I too have a Vapor Star. Cool with the wood base and all, a 'one man show' from what I gather? I found it harder to hold on temperature than Vapor Genie but easier than Lotus, two similar units. For my personal favorite in the 'heat it with fire and toke' class see Vapman. I really enjoy mine sometimes, it has that 'Steam Punk' down really tight. No butane fumes, the fire is out before you hit. And it's made with wood, and gold plated parts......

This guy is similar but a bit different. It doesn't depend on a modest draw to preheat. Tim (the engineer there doing heat cores) put it real blunt one day, "we make tough cores, let it run". Therefore I tend to give it a 10 second or so (varies with heat and battery condition) 'head start' with no air to heat. Let it cook. You've looked down into the empty bowl and seen the glow? You should if not, you'll see it takes several seconds to come up to full temperature. You want to be there for several seconds so the walls get to full temperature (the whole core get hot), then start to draw warm air into the load. Done this way (with the heater 'ahead' of you) you can instantly get to more heat with a stronger draw. Or cool it off by slacking back. Instant response, much better control. Even though I 'waste' precious battery power on each hit this way, I find that the hits are enough better to more than make up for it. Lately I never seem to run out of battery before the herb cashes.

One other point, be sure to shake it up between hits. Not doing so leads to overheating and combustion if you're not careful. With most herb (fairly dry already), I grind it fairly fine. Not powder so it falls down the holes easily, but we want surface area. And don't pack it tightly or completely full, we want air moving around freely. I like to take the top off after the first good hit and dump the load in my left palm. I then use my right hand to break up any lumps stuck together and stir it up before tipping it back in. Takes a few seconds, and you can do it hot (well warm at least) if you're careful. I usually do that twice, after that it's fully dry and flows freely. After the third and following hits I just unscrew the top a few turns (to make a bit more room) then holding the whole unit horizontally I roll it over a few times, tumbling the load like damp clothes in the dryer. I then screw the lid back on, turn it vertical, key it back on and start preheat for the next hit. Neat and tidy, works a treat as you'd say?

Thanks again, and stay in touch?

OF
 
OF,

mlo4sho

Well-Known Member
This vape has me interested. I think I basically understand the differences between the T1 and the LV. I like the price on the LV but would it be able to satisfy a user with a higher tolerance? Or is it more like a log vape? I'm really interested in this vape for its portability and convection heating but want to be sure it'll be able to satisfy me. I'm currently using a DBV.
 
mlo4sho,

OF

Well-Known Member
This vape has me interested. I think I basically understand the differences between the T1 and the LV. I like the price on the LV but would it be able to satisfy a user with a higher tolerance? Or is it more like a log vape? I'm really interested in this vape for its portability and convection heating but want to be sure it'll be able to satisfy me. I'm currently using a DBV.

Probably not in the end if I read you right. It holds two maybe 3 PD stems so you tell me, is that enough for you in say 5 or 6 tokes?

I think it's much more suited to keeping average users medicated with a quick toke or two from time to time.

I'm thinking a Dart is more your speed?

OF
 

mlo4sho

Well-Known Member
Probably not in the end if I read you right. It holds two maybe 3 PD stems so you tell me, is that enough for you in say 5 or 6 tokes?

I think it's much more suited to keeping average users medicated with a quick toke or two from time to time.

I'm thinking a Dart is more your speed?

OF

Thanks for your reply. Judging by these numbers I may be a bit underwhelmed. I must admit, though, I thought I understood what was going on, but I don't. It seems there are too many models/varieties and it has confused me a bit. Am I correct in assuming I can purchase this model http://thermovape.com/collections/e...movape-evolution-starter-kit-standard-voltage and be ready to vape? What is the difference between this model and the more expensive one, the T1? I apologize if these are silly questions but I'm not quite sure I'm getting all this.

EDIT: Okay, I think I'm understanding more now. The difference between the evolution and the T1 is the amount of watts it uses (among others?). Basically, I wanted to compare these two models and not the LV (I was confused at the time, thought the LV was the only model in that price range). So for my needs, I'm trying to figure out whether or not it's worth it to shell off the additional $100 for the T1 (more power might be better for me) or whether I'd be fine with the Evolution. Not too familiar with portables. I've only used an MFLB and found it to be a bit weak, even with proper drawing technique. Also, isn't the Dart for use with concentrates? Or can it go either way? Any input is appreciated.
 
mlo4sho,
Top Bottom