BOOST ULTRA Vapor System

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Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
Scripto23 said:
Stu,
I considered using buttons, but a touch sensor has the same features as a button and more, whereas a button is like a touch sensor but limited. The sensitivity can be adjusted from really sensitive (can sense you from inches away without even touching it) to acting as a force sensor (where you have to squeeze it real hard to trigger). After a lot experimentation, I settled on the setting it currently resides at.

Also "threading wire" isn't as bad or as messy as it sounds. It's a single wire, even simpler and less obtrusive than a headphone cable. And I haven't found it to be a problem at all with the prototype unit. But if you still don't want a wire, the screw essentially acts a little metal button anyway.

As I alluded to in my earlier post, I think the touch sensor is a really cool innovation and gives a certain "wow" factor that is really unique in the vaporizer market. As long as there is an easy way to activate the heater - touching a screw wouldn't bee too difficult even for a stoner like me - then I think you may be onto something really interesting.

I look forward to new developments!

:peace:
 
Stu,

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Scripto23 said:
pakalolo, you are a smart man (or woman).

I am male, now blushing.

Scripto23 said:
I have some pictures of it in various stages of development, but I don't know if people would be interested in that.

The Bud Toaster thread here has nearly 1000 posts and 75000 views. I think it's safe to say that people would be interested.
 
pakalolo,

Hippie Dickie

The Herbal Cube
Manufacturer
Very cool concept and execution. i was doing some reading about ultracaps several weeks ago -- it's great to see how they can be used in a vape.

I have some pictures of it in various stages of development, but I don't know if people would be interested in that.

c'mon man, i would, you know i would. i find nothing evolves the design like trying to build it.
 
Hippie Dickie,

zenmasterofzinfandel

Well-Known Member
Hippie Dickie said:
Very cool concept and execution. i was doing some reading about ultracaps several weeks ago -- it's great to see how they can be used in a vape.

Was wondering when HD would show up in this thread :p. Had hoped he knew a bit more about ultracaps though.

Are ultracaps safe? What are the limitations/compromises as far as being used for a vap?

Looking at the maxell pdf on these K2 series I see max rated Wh is only 3, which is about the capacity of a single AA Sanyo XX 2500ma Eneloop or 2700ma standard Sanyo NiMH AA...but with a huge size and weight difference! Have no idea how this translates into runtime, what parameters dictate that?

I guess, not understanding those parameters, if it heats up very quickly, then it would be more efficient than say the claimed 'one of the *world's most efficient* vaporizers' in that MFLB :D using said AA batteries above which have about the same stored energy, but only for a 0.2C discharge rate.

http://www.maxwell.com/docs/DATASHEET_K2_SERIES_1015370.PDF

How could one use these UC's for a portable battery powered vap like HD's Bud Toaster, which is already large enough, imho?

I'd 3x the request for design devel pix, as I still don't follow with my limited electronics background, what all the parts---can't id them either/ are/ or do on this rather large 'box' for lack of better description.

Concept is cool for sure, but not so sure about the current iteration of execution. Wondering how much could be done to reduce size?
 
zenmasterofzinfandel,

zenmasterofzinfandel

Well-Known Member
Scripto23 said:

Once contact is detected, two fan cooled, 200 amp, power MOSFETs enable an ultracapacitor to instantly unload current into the heating element. Simultaneously, an LED illuminating the glass vaping chamber will fade from cool blue to hot orange. Desired temperature is reached in 1 second.


The MOSFETs' power discharge rate is regulated by pulse width modulation (PWM) which is set by a four way slide joystick on the front of the unit. Up and down for temperature, left and right to set LCD brightness. All user relevant information, such as temperature setting, capacitor voltage, LCD brightness, and heating element power meter, are displayed on the largest LCD screen to ever be put into a vaporizer.

There is an additional 12 volt auxiliary ceramic heater which will activate (alongside the stainless steel ultracapacitor heater) when capacitor voltage drops below 2.4 volts. This occurs after multiple rapid fire hits, such as a party situation, when the capacitor is depleted quicker than it recharges.

If you don't mind, what expertise do you have with ultracap designs or usage? With such high current capability, I don't want to just take someone's word on this, these are not toys. Given it's being "made in the USA" do you plan on getting a UL cert, so we can feel it's reasonably designed for safety?

Let me get this straight, the 200a dual MOSFET's is the power supply for charging the ultracap? Did not see those in the pictures, can you point them out? You mention the MOSFET discharge rate, I did not know transistors were considered an energy storage device that 'discharges'. Do they need to be 200A & large fan cooled? Could you get away with 100A MOSFET's instead, and a smaller fan, or passive heat dissipation with a heat sink?

What is the tiny fan on top off the unit for?

I believe I see the 10w resistors (white rectangles) on the side with lots of red wires coming out of them. Is there some other configuration that might be more tidy, efficient? a PCB set of mounted resistors?


Safety:


* Power supply has automatic over voltage and short circuit protection.

* Safety sensor by the heating element that will not allow the heater to activate unless the glass bowl is inserted and sitting correctly.

PS "auto" over-voltage & SC protection? How well is that engineered? Off the shelf parts, or custom design? Reason I ask is some batteries with protection circuits, those cheapy Chinese made models (not the better quality ones) have very poor quality protection circuits.

What would happen, if say, the safety sensor failed???

Technical information:
At the heart of the BOOST ULTRA is the 2.7 volt, 3000 Farad BoostCap Ultra capacitor. Put simply, ultracapacitors are able to output a ridiculously high current. The amperage that comes out of your wall for instance maxes out at 15 amps before the breaker trips, the short circuit current for this ultracapacitor is a whopping 9300 amps. To my knowledge, this is the largest production capacitor made and the capacitor alone retails for $95. The ultracapacitor is charged at 3.3 volts through ten 10watt power resistors at an exponentially decreasing current (at a max 28 amps) from the power supply. Charging state is regulated by a microcontroller which disables charging once the capacitor has reached 2.7 volts.

Alright under idea conditions it can discharge at very high currents for very brief periods, but in your vap, what kind of limitations are there on the actual currents being discharged? Obviously you're not going to do a short circuit of 9300amps, just like you're not going to short circuit an automobile battery of only 12v, but short circuiting one of those will be in the thousands of amps too... I did that by mistake in my yut, battery gassed very, very rapidly and the case exploded (without igniting any hydrogen) spewing acid on my face and all over the place.

Btw for you beta testers, if you want to save some $, you could get those same 3000F caps used for just $20, or buy new off of ebay for $60 shipped.

As I'm sure you know, 120v x 15A is a lot more energy than you *appear* to be trying to make it out to be, as most new circuit breakers are 20A. When you compare only 2.7v & max peak current of 2200A 2.7v x2200A = 5940 watts energy for 1sec. compared to typical home outlet potential 120v x 20A = 2400watts. Typical electric range in a home running 240v, can have same potential wattage as that ultracap. It's still impressive for the size, however.

For a portable, though, the BCAP2000 is more efficient and weighs 150g less---about 5.4oz, but it makes a difference in a handheld portable, 4in long vs 5,5in...might consider that for the smaller size for only slightly lower capacity.

Production units will be made in extremely limited quantities and I plan on creating 10 beta testing units next. The price for these will be set when finished but will most likely not be more than $490. Im not sure exactly when beta units will be finished production, but it will probably be about two months from now. In accordance with forum rules, please do not request to be a beta tester in this thread. If you would like to purchase a beta unit please email me at boost.ultravs@gmail.com

so do you have an idea what the beta test units are going to cost? And how limited will the production run be?
 
zenmasterofzinfandel,

reece

Well-Known Member
This looks very cool.

Is the airpath truly all glass? Many products claim all glass, or 100% glass airpaths, but are not. Some feel that since so many others make this claim it is alright for them to also make the claim (everybody else is doin' it...). Is there absolutely no other material except glass in the airpath?
 
reece,

Scripto23

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
Wow guys lots of great questions! I'll try tackle these in order and post development pictures soon.
Are ultracaps safe? What are the limitations/compromises as far as being used for a vap?

Looking at the maxell pdf on these K2 series I see max rated Wh is only 3, which is about the capacity of a single AA Sanyo XX 2500ma Eneloop or 2700ma standard Sanyo NiMH AA...but with a huge size and weight difference! Have no idea how this translates into runtime, what parameters dictate that?

I guess, not understanding those parameters, if it heats up very quickly, then it would be more efficient than say the claimed 'one of the *world's most efficient* vaporizers' in that MFLB biggrin using said AA batteries above which have about the same stored energy, but only for a 0.2C discharge rate.

Yes safety is of the utmost importance. I'll spend some time to answer this question. While ultracapacitors have very high discharge currents, the voltage is very low (2.7v max, less than two AA batteries). It doesn't take much current to cause fibrillation of the heart, depending on what path the current takes. However with such a low voltage, diaelectric breakdown of the skin has essentially no chance of occurring (you would have to implant electrodes into your skin, to face any threat). Any voltage less than 200v will most likely cause burns due to heating from resistance. And voltage below 30v, no matter the current are generally considered safe. So to summarize, for electrical danger you need:
* Current (the higher the current, the more likely it is lethal)
* Voltage (the higher the voltage, the lower the resistance and the more likely dielectric breakdown occurs)
* Duration (the longer the duration, the more likely it is lethal safety switches may limit time of current flow)
* Pathway (if current flows through the heart muscle, it is more likely to be lethal)
So a tazer for instance operates at over 50,000 volts, yet is not considered dangerous because the current is small. This is the opposite, high current but not enough voltage. I've held both ends of the capacitors in my hands and was never in any danger, same as holding an AA battery in your hands.

Part 2 of safety, material safety of the capacitor. A capacitor, like a battery can fail or become damaged if overcharged. This capacitor is rated at 2.7v and overcharging it (well) beyond that would cause irreversible damage, and if this continued, the capacitor would fail, likely venting its contents. Again, this is a worst case scenario and is not possible with this unit. It is charged at 3.3v and charging cuts off at 2.62v. There is 2.7v zener diode, a "breakdown diode" that burns off voltage as heat if the microcontroller were to somehow fail and let charging go above 2.7v. Even if charging were to continue, without this diode I expect the worst that would happen would be a longterm decrease in energy capacity of the capacitor (as the internal insulating dielectric material between the two conductors allows more leakage over time)

Additionally, capacitors have a very long life, with little degradation over hundreds of thousands of charge cycles. Due to the capacitor's high number of charge-discharge cycles (millions or more compared to 200 to 1000 for most commercially available rechargeable batteries) it will last for the entire lifetime of most devices, which makes the device environmentally friendly. Rechargeable batteries wear out typically over a few years, and their highly reactive chemical electrolytes present a disposal and safety hazard. Capacitors have no toxic electrolytes and very low toxicity of materials (no cadmium, nickel, lithium, etc. as are found in rechargeable batteries)

Disadvantages of an ultracapacitor:
The amount of energy stored per unit weight is generally lower than that of an electrochemical battery (35 Wh/kg for an standard ultracapacitor, compared to 30-40 Wh/kg for a lead acid battery), and about 1/1,000th the volumetric energy density of gasoline. This capacitor can hold about 11,000 joules, a typical long life alkaline AA battery has about 9300 joules.

The next disadvantage is that capacitors have a linear discharge voltage which prevents use of the full energy spectrum. So a 1.2v AA NiMH battery might start out at 1.25v fully charged and end at 1.15v when "empty". an ultra capacitor would start at 2.7v then linearly lose voltage til 0.
If that doesn't makes sense, check out this graph.

How could one use these UC's for a portable battery powered vap like HD's Bud Toaster, which is already large enough, imho?

Concept is cool for sure, but not so sure about the current iteration of execution. Wondering how much could be done to reduce size?

A portable using one of these would have to be about the size of something like one of those plastic refillable water bottles. As for overall size of this unit, I don't see any way to reduce size without greatly compromising some vital function. The gray box is an "ATX" power supply, must give 12volts @ 12amps for aux ceramic heater, 5v (as well as standby 5v, even when the PS is off) for the microcontroller, and 3.3v @ 28amps to charge the cap.

If you don't mind, what expertise do you have with ultracap designs or usage? With such high current capability, I don't want to just take someone's word on this, these are not toys. Given it's being "made in the USA" do you plan on getting a UL cert, so we can feel it's reasonably designed for safety?

If you're asking if I am an electrical engineer, I am not. I have a medical background and am self taught in electronics. Ultracapacitors are a relatively new technology and I have spent months researching everything I can possibly find on them. The power supply is already UL certified and I have done no electrical modification to it. However the unit as a whole will not be UL certified.

Let me get this straight, the 200a dual MOSFET's is the power supply for charging the ultracap? Did not see those in the pictures, can you point them out? You mention the MOSFET discharge rate, I did not know transistors were considered an energy storage device that 'discharges'. Do they need to be 200A & large fan cooled? Could you get away with 100A MOSFET's instead, and a smaller fan, or passive heat dissipation with a heat sink?

What is the tiny fan on top off the unit for?

Sorry if that was confusing, but the MOSFETs act as a solid state electrical switch, or gate, to govern flow rate from capacitor to heating element. This is done by switching them on and off hundreds of times a second in a method called pulse width modulation (PWM). The 200amp number is their max rating. The MOSFETs are not directly visible, but they sit under the top mounted gold heatsink/fan. Like I mentioned early this is very overengineered, so for production I will probably move to one 300amp or similar MOSFET. They don't necessarily need to be fan cooled but this allows me to use a smaller heatsink. The MOSFETs are most efficient when cool. I was also thinking of moving the fan/heatsink to the side or maybe even internalizing it into the power supply for production units.

I believe I see the 10w resistors (white rectangles) on the side with lots of red wires coming out of them. Is there some other configuration that might be more tidy, efficient? a PCB set of mounted resistors?

Yes there is a more tidy way :) (I kind of like the look but if others don't it can be easily changed) Again, this is overengineered offering 100watts of power dissipation. I'll probably use less than 50watts for production. Either 5 (or fewer) of those ceramic ones, or one of these aluminum ones.

PS "auto" over-voltage & SC protection? How well is that engineered? Off the shelf parts, or custom design? Reason I ask is some batteries with protection circuits, those cheapy Chinese made models (not the better quality ones) have very poor quality protection circuits.
Yes you are right, this is quite difficult to achieve, and would have cost hundreds if not thousands of dollars to design. This is why I went with the ATX power supply which has already had many smart engineers work all that out for me :lol:

What would happen, if say, the safety sensor failed???
The safety sensor is just there so the heater can't be activated if the bowl is not in place and sitting correctly. If this were to somehow happen it would most likely mean the heater wouldn't turn on. But it could be possible that it would mean that the heater would turn on if the bowl is not in place. Not too big a deal as long as you don't stick your finger in there.

Alright under idea conditions it can discharge at very high currents for very brief periods, but in your vap, what kind of limitations are there on the actual currents being discharged
Yes this is where PWM and the MOSFETs comes into play, they control electrical current. They are a combined 400 amps so that would be the max but, I am operating it about 200 amps to maximize efficiency.

As I'm sure you know, 120v x 15A is a lot more energy than you *appear* to be trying to make it out to be, as most new circuit breakers are 20A. When you compare only 2.7v & max peak current of 2200A 2.7v x2200A = 5940 watts energy for 1sec. compared to typical home outlet potential 120v x 20A = 2400watts. Typical electric range in a home running 240v, can have same potential wattage as that ultracap. It's still impressive for the size, however.
Sorry, I was not trying to deceive or mislead I was only trying to offer an everyday example for people not familiar with electrical laws to compare to.

so do you have an idea what the beta test units are going to cost? And how limited will the production run be?

Beta units will not cost more than $490 max. Limited quantities means I have budgeted for 30 units.

Is the airpath truly all glass? Many products claim all glass, or 100% glass airpaths, but are not. Some feel that since so many others make this claim it is alright for them to also make the claim (everybody else is doin' it...). Is there absolutely no other material except glass in the airpath?
The airpath runs through all glass, meaning it doesn't go through plastics or over electronics and such, but the heater components are not glass. Aux heater is ceramic, and primary heater is stainless steel and copper (same as MFLB)
 
Scripto23,
mmm this is an interesting idea. good luck i will be watching :p. the only thing i dont like its the price but i understand with part/labor it probably evens out to were your making profit but still giving the best deal

Good luck
 
GotMilk666,

Scripto23

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
mmm this is an interesting idea. good luck i will be watching tongue. the only thing i dont like its the price but i understand with part/labor it probably evens out to were your making profit but still giving the best deal

Yeah unfortunately cost is pretty high to make one of these. The cost of parts alone (even purchased in bulk) is more than many fully built finished vaporizers :( I'm working on making retail price as low as I can and I feel it definitely competes with the other vaporizers in this price range and even those that are more costly.
 
Scripto23,
im sure if you can get the price below 399 it will sell well and try calling the manufactures of the part and see if you can order directly from them as i bet it would save a few $$$
 
GotMilk666,

hereatlast

Well-Known Member
I have to admit, price-point doesn't seem like much of an issue IMO considering the very limited quantity of units that are slated for production. That said, it doesn't seem that keeping the price low (though you've set a very fair cap already it seems) should be a priority IMO. All my :2c:

Like others have said, please do put some in-development pics up if you don't mind...always cool to see the progression. Keep it up :tup:
 
hereatlast,

Scripto23

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
Ok a few of the development pictures are up! These were over the course of a few months and for the most part only show the successful branches of design (I didn't take too many pictures of the many failures). Also be sure to look at the bottom of each picture as most of them have a brief caption. The captions are pretty short so if anybody wants more information be sure to ask. :) Pictures here
 
Scripto23,

Egzoset

Banned
M'yeah, i'd say one wouldn't want to deal with loose nuts at full charge while handling such things...

:popcorn:
 
Egzoset,

collegerower

Well-Known Member
Thanks for sharing the pics! This will always be well outside my price range but looks very interesting. Looking forward to whats to come!
 
collegerower,
Dear scripto23, I find electronic programming and vaporizing systems super hot. please tell me you are either single or thinking about being single because I think we would have a lot of fun:o
 
lunasea725,

Lo

Combustion free since '09
:cool: I'm just lol at the match game going on here!

Looking forward to seeing more of this. I love watching development of vapes! Good luck with the vape...and the girl ROFL!!
 
Lo,

Scripto23

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
How loud is the machine?

The fan noise isn't an issue at all. I actually had to install a light on the front of the unit during testing so I could tell when it was on because I kept thinking it was broken since I couldn't hear anything. The fan is only on during charging anyway. Surprisingly the small top mounted fan is noisier and I've slowed it down making it significantly quieter as well.

So overall to answer your question: When not being used (in standby, or clock mode) the unit is dead silent emitting zero noise. Even when in use (drawing vapor, or charging), unless there is an absolute silence in the room, the noise is almost unnoticeable.
 
Scripto23,

Scripto23

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
Update:
I've been busy the past few weeks with work, but will be moving forward in ordering parts in bulk for the first production run of 10 beta units. First I have a question for the people in this forum regarding design; would you prefer a sharp, distinctive, looking vaporizer that is different from what is already out there on the market? Or would you prefer a more traditional, simplistic vaporizer design? I guess in other words, would you want it to blend in or stand out?

Also before I go ahead and order parts is there any other additional functionality
or foreseeable changes you would like to see in this vaporizer if you were to own one yourself?

Thanks and I appreciate your input!
 
Scripto23,

Lycanthrope

King Of The Loons
Maybe I'm an old fart but I would like something a little bit more traditional, but different enough to set it apart, but not too edgy. I dont tend to like angular sharp edges, but something more flowing and organic looking if you know what I mean. I do however think that the size of the unit in the pics seems to be about right. It should be small enough to easily hold and grip onto. The overall size and weight should be substantial enough to stand alone without tipping over. That's just my opinion and theres going to be a lot of them concerning the looks and aesthetic design features. Itll be interesting to see what others think. :2c:

Keep up the good work.
 
Lycanthrope,

VWFringe

Naruto Fan
i looked at ultracapacitors for a homemade e-cig, but gave up when i found it'd be as big as a cigar for a five second draw at 12 watts, but ultracapacitors, as they've been described to me, in something like Hippie Dickie's Bud Toaster, would sit along-side the batteries and provide the surge of electricity pulled by the heater, allowing the batteries to plug away with less trauma, so they'd last longer or perhaps need to be smaller

i don't know the smaller ones translate in your situation, but found this sizing tool for others who might be interested: Tecate Group

Can I ask what the resistance of your heating element is? Are you using any type of current control if the resistance is really low? (over on the ECF forums there's a guy who's using an ultra low resistance accross ss #400 mesh to vaporize e-cigarette liquid, and he's posted the circuit design for that)

i see the heater is like the mesh in the MFLB, have you tried more than one loop tacked to the same posts, and can we drip dabs of oil directly onto it?
 
VWFringe,

Scripto23

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
Lycanthrope,
Thanks for sharing your opinion, I appreciate any and all advice :)

VWFringe,
ultracapacitors, as they've been described to me, in something like Hippie Dickie's Bud Toaster, would sit along-side the batteries and provide the surge of electricity pulled by the heater, allowing the batteries to plug away with less trauma, so they'd last longer or perhaps need to be smaller

Yes, you know your stuff, this is exactly how power capacitors are traditionally setup. For instance many aftermarket car subwoofers come with a very large one farad 12v supercap which provides some added "kick" for deep notes so stuff like the headlights don't dim and such.

I'm using the power supply sort of in place of batteries so that the ultracapacitor is (greatly) augmenting the 25 or so amps supplied by the power supply, instead of a battery. I experimented with using different batteries but found that none could recharge fast enough for my goal of instantaneous 24/7 vapor, nor did I want the user to keep having to exchange batteries as this would interrupt the seamless operation that I was going for. Additionally, this also cuts down on weight, cost, and complexity.

My primary heating element is approximately 1 x 1.5cm of .006 304 stainless steel mesh. Now the resistance of this is too low to directly measure (without using very expensive tools), so using ohms law I have extrapolated that it's around .05 ohms. Since the voltage is so small and the current is so high, a very low resistance element is needed (resistance = voltage/current).

Are you using any type of current control if the resistance is really low?
Yes. This is key to the very finely tuned rapid temperature heatup curve. Two power MOSFETs, microcontolled by a detailed algorithm, very precisely govern the current flow from capacitor to stainless steel mesh.

can we drip dabs of oil directly onto it?
I would be hesitant to drip any liquids into the box containing electronics. Also the liquid on the mesh would most likely change the resistance in unpredictable ways. The best way to go about doing this would be to put the liquid into one of those little metal mesh disks (I can't remember their name but I use the one that came with the Volcano) and stick that into the vaping chamber.
 
Scripto23,
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