Log vapes

What do those glass stems run? Those are sick.

Not cheap, but CD does great work. No two alike.

I know when he first put them up for sale, they were around 50.00. But over the year, his skill got better and I believe, not sure, but I think the last time I checked, they were around 75.00. Just went to his site and it looks like he's currently sold out>>>> http://www.etsy.com/shop/revolverre

Dont forget they were shipped from Canada I think, which was about $30 for shipping alone. I believe the teardrop ones were 50 or so and the tube like ones were about 75

Purple-Days said:

A few years ago I made some wooden tubes, never noticed anything magical about wood vs. plastic as far as cooling. After all wood is an insulator, not a conductor. Wooden tubes are neat, cool to look at, but cooling properties (of wood) seem to be over-emphasised considering the physics. Long glass tubes do cool the vapor, Pammy uses one, but you also are mixing the vapor with the air in the tube, diluting it somewhat, not something everyone is after.

Click to expand...

MattyGTwenty3 said:

The wooden vapor tubes are somewhat longer than the plastic stock tubes and have a noticeably bigger inner diameter, this is what helps air flow and cooling the vapor, not the fact that they are wood instead of plastic.

Click to expand...

I don't find the glass tubes too airy/diluted- I think here the advantage of glass here over the wider bored wooden tubes, at least the way I use it, is that I can see through it to minimise dilution by taking an initial brief primer hit to bring the load up to temp- looking through the glass I can see when the vapor stream gets going and the tube starts to fill- and it does take a few seconds. Then I can exhale the bit of breath I've taken to get there (just a mini hit), and start again on a long, slow, vapor rich inhalation from a ready milked tube. Once I can see the vapor stream starting to thin out as the load get spent I can finish the hit with the carb hole. That way I can polish off the best part of a whole stem load in one go, and without mixing the vapor with too much air. This way I actually find it easier to get a bigger, denser hits and less diluted than with the short stems. I'd love to try the wooden stems though, but I seem to have made my investment in the glass, and can't spend the extra just to try.

WatTyler said:

I don't find the glass tubes too airy/diluted- I think here the advantage of glass here over the wider bored wooden tubes, at least the way I use it, is that I can see through it to minimise dilution by taking an initial brief primer hit to bring the load up to temp- looking through the glass I can see when the vapor stream gets going and the tube starts to fill- and it does take a few seconds. Then I can exhale the bit of breath I've taken to get there (just a mini hit), and start again on a long, slow, vapor rich inhalation from a ready milked tube. Once I can see the vapor stream starting to thin out as the load get spent I can finish the hit with the carb hole. That way I can polish off the best part of a whole stem load in one go, and without mixing the vapor with too much air. This way I actually find it easier to get a bigger, denser hits and less diluted than with the short stems. I'd love to try the wooden stems though, but I seem to have made my investment in the glass, and can't spend the extra just to try.

Click to expand...

I own a tooty and a wooden stem for my PD and personally much prefer the wooden stem, not that the tooty isn't awesome as well. Different strokes for different folks.

I wonder if I could experiment by widening one of my PD tubes internal bore, that would seem to work similarly to a wooden tube. I don't have a drill-press or a vice...so, I probably won't actually do this for safety sake until I can pick up a vice.

I Just wonder if Y'all think this is worth doing, or if anyone has tried wider mouth stems. Tom?

I use the iso, soak and shake method to clean...and my screens still look new. How would I clean a wooden tube, in your experience...anyone...MattyG?

Brother Brigham said:

I wonder if I could experiment by widening one of my PD tubes internal bore, that would seem to work similarly to a wooden tube. I don't have a drill-press or a vice...so, I probably won't actually do this for safety sake until I can pick up a vice.

I Just wonder if Y'all think this is worth doing, or if anyone has tried wider mouth stems. Tom?

I use the iso, soak and shake method to clean...and my screens still look new. How would I clean a wooden tube, in your experience...anyone...MattyG?

Click to expand...

The screen is inside of a small metal insert that goes into the tube and the insert can be removed for easy washing, you can clean any particulate matter from the wooden tube itself with a pipe cleaner. (2 included with the tube)

Also, the outer diameter of the wooden tubes is larger which of course allows for more wiggle room for inner diameter. I don't know how much extra room there is to expand the inner diameter in the plastic tubes.

^^^ Edit: Wat Tyler, I missed your post. I didn't say 'too diluted', said, "somewhat diluted", other than that I agree with some of your points about glass, Pammy uses a CD glass tube for her everyday use, the stock tubes only when durability is an issue. I'm just too clumsy with glass. But, that's me.
+++

Daniel Bernoulli, probably said something about this. Basically the initial diameter of the vapor tip is a restricting factor, no matter how large a diameter is on the other side of the restriction, the restriction is the controlling factor. Like a carb restrictor plate in NASCAR, only so much air (and fuel mixture) can get through a fixed hole diameter, no matter how big the engine is on the other side. (Side question do they still have carbs in NASCAR?)

Length (travel time) and diameter of the tube ( air/vapor ratio) would seem to be the big factors in cooling, not the material used. IMO.

Boring the tube (ID) wider is easy, but I went with a narrow ID to keep vapor dilution to a minimum. You can add a bit (6" ?) of flexible food grade tubing over the end of either the PD or MZ stock tubes, for additional cooling. They are 1/2" OD tubes and the flexible Tygon 3/8" ID stuff slips over and is a tight fit. Same stuff people use to attach a stock tube to a water device.

Thank you MattyG and Tom, both your replies made very good sense to me. Eternal salvation for you both, presto manifesto!

Purple-Days said:

The wooden tubes I made were of the same size as the stock tubes. Apples to Apples... Hard to tell by photos that the wooden tubes from Ed were larger than stock, Apples to Oranges. That would account for the cooling that is reported. Again the physics didn't make sense, when all other variables were held the same, but again we have another variable, or two, to account for (length and diameter). There is also the extra metal (in that design) to consider, another variable.

Click to expand...

Thank you, Jesus, for your advertisement of you're great holiness the Purple Days immortality device.
One toke... you'll live for ever, mah brethren.

Now although this is the thread for Ty14, making an important decision in his life about vapes,
i felt an important need to tell everyone about a work of art - the PD.

Made only by an important artist - me!!

Now brethren,
you might be thinking the Lord's device may not cost much.
And that is true.

But guess what makes the work of an artist skyrocket in value?

Thas right, brothers and sisters, more shark fins!!!

Not very nice, Vapemania. Tom was doing nothing but enriching the conversation with his knowledge of the design principles. no need for attacks

Vapemania said:

Purple-Days said:

The wooden tubes I made were of the same size as the stock tubes. Apples to Apples... Hard to tell by photos that the wooden tubes from Ed were larger than stock, Apples to Oranges. That would account for the cooling that is reported. Again the physics didn't make sense, when all other variables were held the same, but again we have another variable, or two, to account for (length and diameter). There is also the extra metal (in that design) to consider, another variable.

Click to expand...

Thank you, Jesus, for your advertisement of you're great holiness the Purple Days immortality device.
One toke... you'll live for ever, mah brethren.

Now although this is the thread for Ty14, making an important decision in his life about vapes,
i felt an important need to tell everyone about a work of art - the PD.

Made only by an important artist - me!!

Now brethren,
you might be thinking the Lord's device may not cost much.
And that is true.

But guess what makes the work of an artist skyrocket in value?

Thas right, brothers and sisters, more shark fins!!!

Click to expand...

Just another baiting tactic.

Been able to stay just a hair under the radar both here and at GC. Guys got some skills considering how long he's been able to pull this off. I don't think I've ever seen one person piss off so many people at two different sites in such a short period of time. Contributes nothing but conflict.

Vapemania said:

Purple-Days said:

The wooden tubes I made were of the same size as the stock tubes. Apples to Apples... Hard to tell by photos that the wooden tubes from Ed were larger than stock, Apples to Oranges. That would account for the cooling that is reported. Again the physics didn't make sense, when all other variables were held the same, but again we have another variable, or two, to account for (length and diameter). There is also the extra metal (in that design) to consider, another variable.

Click to expand...

Thank you, Jesus, for your advertisement of you're great holiness the Purple Days immortality device.
One toke... you'll live for ever, mah brethren.

Now although this is the thread for Ty14, making an important decision in his life about vapes,
i felt an important need to tell everyone about a work of art - the PD.

Made only by an important artist - me!!

Now brethren,
you might be thinking the Lord's device may not cost much.
And that is true.

But guess what makes the work of an artist skyrocket in value?

Thas right, brothers and sisters, more shark fins!!!

Click to expand...

You know what, I don't normally get all in peoples faces but your a prick and I'm ashamed to hear your from the UK. Do us all a favour and go back to the rock you crawled from because every post I read from you on this forum is making me cringe, you trolling prick.

Edit: (sorry to everyone else who had to read that)

Modnote: Flaming is not allowed regardless of the situation. Please review the forum rules.

Ok so I just wrote this and was going to post it in the Zap thread, where it was kind of relevant to the discussion at this time, but then thought before posting that it's perhaps more relevant to 12v 'logs' in general, and I didn't think it was perhaps appropriate to post links there to dodgy generic Chinese transformers when the manufacturers sell their own. So I thought I'd share the info here instead.

WRT wires wearing out where they meet the small 5.5mm plug;

I've looked about at various transformers for one with thicker wires, as I wanted to extend the reach of mine away from the wall socket (for a diff log vape), and wanted thicker wires for splicing. They're pretty difficult to find (I couldn't!).

In the end I settled on just replacing with dirt cheap chinese ones. They only last about 6 months on 24/7, and the transformer seems to give up before to wires. They haven't proven to be a fire hazard yet , When they do die quietly after half a year I just buy a new cheapo transformer for $4 and splice it on the exisiting wires, and keep the jack for a spare to splice on when the wires/jack do wear out.

I've now got a length of about 5m of wire between the wall transformer and my log- plenty of flexibility to pass around the room.

But I have since found a cheap heavy duty 12v supply It's rated at 2A, and so I'm thinking that the wires will be a bit thicker and more heavy duty- unlikely to ever wear out if its anything like my laptop power supply cables. I just need a way to extend the reach a couple of metres from the wall socket to the transformer- surely that cable should exist. I'm gonna try it next time, and if it works well enough then I might look for a similar branded and reliable laptop supply for a permenant solution.

surely that cable should exist

Click to expand...

you could use speaker wire (i have and plan to again - although i'm currently using Deans super-duper megastrand 18ga) -- very low resistance, 18 gauge should be heavy enough and flexible enough. Try Radio Shack, eBay, Amazon any online electronics supplier.

Ahhh, I had actually meant the little double cable, the flat type plastic plug, usually a sealed unit, that would go between the wall and the second laptop transformer I linked (which is a separate 'on the floor' type, rather than 'plug into the wall' type). I meant that they are normally really short, like 2ft, but that I could hopefully find a longer 5-6ft one.

But with the specs you've just given me I can see now that I should just buy that wire to replace my current cable- which is thin and has about 5 soldered splices along it's length- with one long thicker length just spliced once at the transformer end, and soldered directly to a type M adaptaplug for the vape end. Cheers Hippie, I never really thought about using my own wire. Don't know why- it's obvious, but guess I didn't know what to look for

since you're already into soldering and splicing, it shouldn't be difficult. Also, JameCo.com is a good source for transformers/power supplies.

Just ordering wire now. Can you just confirm for me Hippie that there's no decay of electrical power over the type of distances we're talking about- no electrical reason for me to limit at 3 metres, instead of 5-6+m?

Should be perfectly fine. This chart:
http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm
says up to 5 amps and up to 25 feet for 18ga wire.

There has been some discussion of hotter/cooler vapes. I would agree the PD's may be a bit hotter, probably because slightly fatter. It turns out to be not a very significant difference. Any of them can be made hotter by making a 'sweater' for the unit out of a sock, coozie or something similar. It all works out about the same in my view. Focus on the type of wood if you have a preference for hot or cool. That's neat that the makers are willing to customize for temp. By the way too hot and the flavor is not nearly as good. I think these fixed temp vapes are relatively good for health over some other types because you just cannot go above some threshold temp and thus some of the nastier stuff can never enter your lungs.