Log vapes

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ty14

Tyler
Okay so basically i'm wondering the pro's and con's of all three log vapes.. I'm fixing to make a move for college and money is going to be tight and i need to conserve as much as possible.. Looking to vapor bong also so which is the best for that? Don't really have the time to wait on a purple days but if its my best bet i will..

I'm sure this has been answered multiple times i just don't feel like going through 50,000 pages of reading..

All help is appreciated greatly!! :peace:
 
ty14,

FlasH

Downhill demon
All of the log vapes are pretty similar in functionality and style. It's really dependent on who you want to buy from and how long you want to wait to get it :)
 
FlasH,

ty14

Tyler
So theres really not much between the three units??

Does one unit offer bigger rips than the other two??
 
ty14,

lwien

Well-Known Member
ty, read that thread that deisel posted up. It has everything there that differentiates these vapes.

In answer to your question above, the PD's seem to run a bit warmer than the Zaps and one of the reasons is that it seems the girth isn't quite a big, therefore, doesn't retain the heat as well. That is a good thing for some people and bad for others depending on what temp you like to vape at, so even though I've never used a Zap, it may stand to reason then that the PD may offer bigger rips because of these higher temps.

But again, I urge you to read that thread. Both the PD and the MZ are excellent vapes in this category.
 
lwien,

ty14

Tyler
Does the wdz not even compare to the zap and pd? And also do you have to constantly buy screens for the zap and buy from them directly to get the screens?

Can you really leave these machines running for months without turning them off? That worries me with a fire hazard but if i just leave it on, on a desk it will be ok right?

I'm really considering getting one of these and a ssfg travel straight tube before i move to tulsa.
 
ty14,

ty14

Tyler
Another question... I'm wanting an ssfg travel tube, can someone point me to how to get one now with etsy stopping 420 sales :(

I watched a video on youtube of one with the showerhead downstem stacking bubbles like crazy. I figure i'll go with a straight tube though. I saw how you said you gave under a 100 for your ssfg straight tube nyc so that makes me want one now :p
 
ty14,

Nycdeisel

Well-Known Member
Talk to me through email or GC's pms about the glass, and yes generally I think the Zaps are regarded as higher quality then the WDZ. The WDZ is also considerably cheaper, for SOME reason, if you get what I mean. but its still not a bad log vape by any means.
 
Nycdeisel,

Brother Brigham

King, Priest and Ruler over Israel on Earth
I can testify the woodeez is made of cheaper wood (lighter and less refined), thinner leather base, and cheaper feeling vapor tubes than the PD. :( I have used both on multiple occasions.
From what I understand, the MZ is seemingly on par with the PD just different internal materials (I think both are safe). I went with a PD because of the durability tests on youtube and because I simply liked Tom and Pammy's approach (they do it their way, and their way is good for them and whoever has the patience to join their community...no consideration of outsourcing or mass producing...I think a labor of love). Not to say Rick does business any different with MZ, I just stopped my search after finding the PD.
 
Brother Brigham,

momofthegoons

vapor accessory addict
Many who frequent this forum know I have multiple Zaps and think very highly of them so I wont go on and on. But, after reading the above post, I just wanted to add that Rick does his own work; no outsourcing there with the exception of his glass. And he (or rather Zaplady) puts the stem tip in.

ty14, you do not need to constantly buy new screens. You also do not have to buy them from Rick, although he does sell a replacement screen kit. You can make your own screens by buying standard pipe screens and cutting them down to size. The handy part of Rick's kit is that it comes with a tool that makes it easy, along with the screens and clips.
 
momofthegoons,

lwien

Well-Known Member
momofthegoons said:
ty14, you do not need to constantly buy new screens. .

I've had my PD's for over 2 years now and have only replaced a screen once and that was to just get rid of the retaining clips for better airflow. Once a month cleaning in ISO has done the trick for me.
 
lwien,

OO

Technical Skeptical
for vapor bonging on the cheap have you considered the vapobowl or the vaporstar?

another consideration is just a magnifying glass which is something i've heard works for vapor-bonging.
 
OO,

rabblerouser

Combustion Fucker
I think my cherry PD definitely runs hotter / bigger hits than my Myrtlezap. But I always figured that was mostly due to myrtle vs cherry, and the zap is now available in cherry. Someone with both units in the same wood might be the best comparison.

They're both pretty comparable, If you like it a little hotter I'd look at cherry certainly. Especially with that girl saying you can request a "hot one" from Rick.
 
rabblerouser,

lwien

Well-Known Member
rabblerouser said:
I think my cherry PD definitely runs hotter / bigger hits than my Myrtlezap. But I always figured that was mostly due to myrtle vs cherry, and the zap is now available in cherry. Someone with both units in the same wood might be the best comparison.

They're both pretty comparable, If you like it a little hotter I'd look at cherry certainly. Especially with that guy saying you can request a "hot one" from Rick.

The type of wood definitely plays a part, but so does the girth.
 
lwien,

rabblerouser

Combustion Fucker
yeah, girth varies a bit between units :rolleyes:

actually, I just checked to make sure, my PD and MZ are within an 1/8th of an inch or less of each other.
 
rabblerouser,

MG23

Relaxin'
To add to the heat topic, Rick has stated that the PD runs hotter because of internal differences in the PD (dark fins) and not because the PD is thicker than the MZ. Although PDs are in fact thicker it's not what makes the difference.
The species of wood obviously does make a difference, though.
 
MG23,

lwien

Well-Known Member
MattyGTwenty3 said:
Although PDs are in fact thicker it's not what makes the difference.


Thicker wood would retain the heat better, would it not?
 
lwien,

Nycdeisel

Well-Known Member
I agree, the thickness(or girth, whatever you want to call it) does make quite a difference all by itself, and I have noticed how even a few degrees can make a big difference in the vapor outcome.
 
Nycdeisel,

hereatlast

Well-Known Member
Nycdeisel do you have a thicker unit in the same wood/type to compare? It sounds like there are enough variables (namely internal design and wood type) that it would be tough to pinpoint 'girth' as having a noticeable effect on its own. My Alder PD(P) runs noticeably warmer than my Black Walnut (when sitting side by side in the same room of course) and the girths are very close (a repeat of what rabblerouser said with different units). Would love to hear if someone with the same wood & type could make out a noticeable difference between two units.

In any case, its nice that the customer can pick their wood species on the functional basis of targeting a relative operating temperature as well as which one's purdiest.
 
hereatlast,

lwien

Well-Known Member
hereatlast said:
N It sounds like there are enough variables (namely internal design and wood type) that it would be tough to pinpoint 'girth' as having a noticeable effect on its own.

I don't think anyone claimed that the girth would have a noticeable effect on it's own, but I do think it is one of the factors in the PD running a bit warmer along with the choice of woods. The difference in the design of the heat exchanger is supposed to help the PD retain the heat between hits rather than having the unit run warmer at idle, I believe.
 
lwien,
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