Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

@RastaBuddhaTao

Received my Custom Splinter Z today. Decided to get the more expensive version and added some accessories. First purchase from your company. My order included the cooling kit mouthpieces. I received the tall XL8R, but NOT the XLjr, shorter version. Also missing from what is listed as included on your site, the loading tool, the bag, and no invoice or packing list. Disappointed.....

Easywider said:

^^ Dad checking in, this is truth. My go to for speed sessions.





This may be an unpopular suggestion as it was once said not to exceed 50w but after getting sick of slow heat up times in TC mode I upped my wattage to 65W. It's way more responsive now, my Z gives me the best first hit out of all my vapes. I find a medium/strong inhale of the first draw really gets it up to temp fast with the 65w headroom.

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I’m going to try the same. The DNAc mods in TC mode, don’t stay at that wattage long enough to even be an issue.

Finally finished reading the entire thread, well every page while scrolling the repeats. Didn’t see this mentioned.

Wondering if anyone has tried preheating the SplinterZ first, then inserting the load stem? I realize the 19mm female glass & load won’t get any heat soak. So, while not a time consuming experiment, just wondering if anyone has tried it, and perhaps just a waste of time?

Shit Snacks said:

I don't see any need? They came treated already

I did a bit with some Triihouse wax way back when on my old early rough Milaana V1 and beta Zion, and on my Trii Lily ofcourse, but haven't buttered a single wooden vape I own otherwise in years... Even my TinyMight has super dry untreated oak wood and I don't really care enough to try to find my wax again lol

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Has anyone ever asked Ryan, the maker, what finish he uses on the SplinterZ US Custom? It’s always a PLUS, when knows what the original finish was before attempting to update the wood. I have new Purple Heart. As noted in this thread a few times, it has a somewhat “dried” look, you get a bit of a dull sheen in the right light. For FUN, I tried some Natural - Watco Danish Finishing Oil. I use this all the time on my oak furniture. It usually soaks into most woods, you wipe off and buff. On the PH, it didn’t penetrate or have much if any effect. So perhaps the original finish was some type of lacquer or polyurethane that can soak in a bit but dry to a harder protective layer. Still looking for a bit more sheen, I tried Butcher Wax, once again, with no visible difference, it may also be something they use, a wax mixed with a penetrating element. It looks and feels the same as new, so unless like me you need a FUN project, whatever he uses could last a long time, another reason I’d like to know. If I ever wanted real fun, I’ll sand it down, and do a bunch of Tung Oil treatments, to see what Purple Heart can do!

Has Ryan ever revealed what he uses?

RustyOldNail said:

I’m going to try the same. The DNAc mods in TC mode, don’t stay at that wattage long enough to even be an issue.

Finally finished reading the entire thread, well every page while scrolling the repeats. Didn’t see this mentioned.

Wondering if anyone has tried preheating the SplinterZ first, then inserting the load stem? I realize the 19mm female glass & load won’t get any heat soak. So, while not a time consuming experiment, just wondering if anyone has tried it, and perhaps just a waste of time?

Click to expand...

RustyOldNail said:

Has anyone ever asked Ryan, the maker, what finish he uses on the SplinterZ US Custom? It’s always a PLUS, when knows what the original finish was before attempting to update the wood. I have new Purple Heart. As noted in this thread a few times, it has a somewhat “dried” look, you get a bit of a dull sheen in the right light. For FUN, I tried some Natural - Watco Danish Finishing Oil. I use this all the time on my oak furniture. It usually soaks into most woods, you wipe off and buff. On the PH, it didn’t penetrate or have much if any effect. So perhaps the original finish was some type of lacquer or polyurethane that can soak in a bit but dry to a harder protective layer. Still looking for a bit more sheen, I tried Butcher Wax, once again, with no visible difference, it may also be something they use, a wax mixed with a penetrating element. It looks and feels the same as new, so unless like me you need a FUN project, whatever he uses could last a long time, another reason I’d like to know. If I ever wanted real fun, I’ll sand it down, and do a bunch of Tung Oil treatments, to see what Purple Heart can do!

Has Ryan ever revealed what he uses?

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You certainly can preheat without a stem loaded, the point of the preheat is to get the heater warm, not the chamber aka stem (that takes air going through it too, since there is no conduction here, just pure convection)

I think he uses natural wax oils, but it could have been where the stock of wood came from, and I'm not sure I see many people treating purpleheart... As I said, I do not because I do not see a need to aside from being lazy lol

Shit Snacks said:

You certainly can preheat without a stem loaded, the point of the preheat is to get the heater warm, not the chamber aka stem (that takes air going through it too, since there is no conduction here, just pure convection)

I think he uses natural wax oils, but it could have been where the stock of wood came from, and I'm not sure I see many people treating purpleheart... As I said, I do not because I do not see a need to aside from being lazy lol

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Thanks, I’m going to try getting the heater warm BEFORE inserting the stem, hoping this will solve a bit of center charring.

RustyOldNail said:

Thanks, I’m going to try getting the heater warm BEFORE inserting the stem, hoping this will solve a bit of center charring.

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the best way to avoid that is actually your draw technique, and perhaps the way you back the stem... With proper temp control it shouldn't be an issue I wouldn't think though... Good luck!

RustyOldNail said:

Thanks, I’m going to try getting the heater warm BEFORE inserting the stem, hoping this will solve a bit of center charring.

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What mod and settings are you using? It's pretty easy to get a Z heating evenly.

With my DNA250C mods coaxing the Z to warm up is the only challenge. I have the Herbie ecigprofiles and Frank's theme on all my DNAc mods and my habit is to nudge the resistance up until I'm getting the quick heatup and even avb I've come to expect.

I keep two of my ZV2s on lower end TC mods now and while the ceiling for flavor isn't quite at the level of my DNA Splinter Z combos I appreciate how they get going right from a cold start and still roast super evenly with no hotspots or scorching. I always recommend the Wismec RX Gen3 Dual and more recently I've been really impressed by the Wismec Sinuous Ravage running Red Panda.

RustyOldNail said:

Wondering if anyone has tried preheating the SplinterZ first, then inserting the load stem? I realize the 19mm female glass & load won’t get any heat soak. So, while not a time consuming experiment, just wondering if anyone has tried it, and perhaps just a waste of time?

Click to expand...

It will not at all heat up the load. Especially if it is just a 5 or so second preheat. The stem/load will not get hot until you pull air through it. What little bit of heat rises off the heater during the preheat...is mostly absorbed by the screens.

Try it....do a 5 second preheat with the stem in......pull it out and feel the joint area of the stem.

bossman said:

What mod and settings are you using? It's pretty easy to get a Z heating evenly.

With my DNA250C mods coaxing the Z to warm up is the only challenge. I have the Herbie ecigprofiles and Frank's theme on all my DNAc mods and my habit is to nudge the resistance up until I'm getting the quick heatup and even avb I've come to expect.

I keep two of my ZV2s on lower end TC mods now and while the ceiling for flavor isn't quite at the level of my DNA Splinter Z combos I appreciate how they get going right from a cold start and still roast super evenly with no hotspots or scorching. I always recommend the Wismec RX Gen3 Dual and more recently I've been really impressed by the Wismec Sinuous Ravage running Red Panda.

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Using a Mirage DNA75c, I’ve been using the “Franks Theme”, as an ECig user for a long time. Last version he posted was over a year ago, looks abandoned, I believe v2.88. I then extracted just the material profile from the FC SHARE theme, for my SPLINTERZ Custom, since I have mine already customized.

There is no easy way to figure out the overall TCR value that was used in the creation of that SplinterZ material file. I PM’d the author of the FCSHARE uploaded on the Escribe site, but no response, and the last I checked, he has not been on FC Forum for a long time. Anyways, tested that material file, found it weak. Made my own custom material file at TCR=120, a popular one in this thread mostly using non DNA devices where you directly input TCR values on the mod. 120 is usable, but so far I like the hotter TCR value of an existing material, SS430 - TCR=138, and a possible advantage is these Evolve provided material files were properly created with the more precise temperature curve, unlike the simple custom ones you can create in the Escribe software, which is a straight line TCR. For fun I tried what I knew would be a high value, but someone here was happy with it. TCR=180, way to hot and nasty for me. I don’t mess with changing resistance, I don’t believe in adding yet another factor. One of the most important factors that Evolve uses in its DNA chipset, is knowing what the baseline room temperature resistance is. Their company rep on their own forum warns of this. BUT, most know, for the purposes of getting a heater going, that’s going to heat moving air, calculating the differential between SET TEMP & Actual air temp, is all just ballpark, unless one has all the proper and expensive lab equipment to do truly accurate tests. I’ve got more testing to do as well as packing load and draw technique. From what I’ve read over this entire thread, for a SplinterZ, TCR values between 120-160, depending on how cool or warm you like it. Getting it going, up to temp, fast and accurately is worth some more “testing”....

LabPong said:

It will not at all heat up the load. Especially if it is just a 5 or so second preheat. The stem/load will not get hot until you pull air through it. What little bit of heat rises off the heater during the preheat...is mostly absorbed by the screens.

Try it....do a 5 second preheat with the stem in......pull it out and feel the joint area of the stem.

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Well then it’s not worth bothering with, thanks for saving me the time, what you say is logical.

Hi, I have just recently got my hands on a Splinter Z. I decided since I already have a mod it makes sense without really breaking the bank compared to the prices of some of the vaporizers out there. Anyway I am using my Z with the Smok Alien 220 and am not really having the best time with it. I have tried starting out at 30w and get a nice taste but not much vapor. It takes ages to get going even if I hold down the button for 10 seconds before inhaling. I then I bump up the wattage to 35w less taste but more vapor but not enough. At 40-45w bit of a burnt taste. When I remove the stem to check the basket the herb isnt evenly roasted. Its darker in the middle but edges seem a bit green even after rotating the stem between hits. Now I tried TC mode 45W TC175 200c and I'm getting better results. The difference in TC mode is I get vapor more or less instantly but the bowl is spent only after two good hits but I get a lot of hot spotting in the middle. Now I have read that Smok devices are pretty crap at running it TC mode and am wondering if I will get better results if I get better mod for my Z?
I see a lot of people on here running mods with custom firmwares and I would like to try this too but I dont know which mod will get me the best results from my Z. Please can you help recommend a mod? with the best firmware.I believe the DNA mods are great in TC mode and also heard good things about the Wismec mods too. I do like the look of the Lost Vape 250c Paranormal and also the Triade and if there is something better then please let me know.

Thanks

Sullaskeez

Hi all.
My Z v2 is by far the most flavourful and powerful vaporized in my collection for sure. Using Tubo f/w, the differences are only in watts from 70 to 47 and the resistance ...
No hot spots ,not preheat needed.
I started from 180 c. couple of hits then to 210 (couple more) and 1 or 2 hits at 225.
Stay safe,high and free brothers.

Sullaskeez said:

Hi, I have just recently got my hands on a Splinter Z. I decided since I already have a mod it makes sense without really breaking the bank compared to the prices of some of the vaporizers out there. Anyway I am using my Z with the Smok Alien 220 and am not really having the best time with it. I have tried starting out at 30w and get a nice taste but not much vapor. It takes ages to get going even if I hold down the button for 10 seconds before inhaling. I then I bump up the wattage to 35w less taste but more vapor but not enough. At 40-45w bit of a burnt taste. When I remove the stem to check the basket the herb isnt evenly roasted. Its darker in the middle but edges seem a bit green even after rotating the stem between hits. Now I tried TC mode 45W TC175 200c and I'm getting better results. The difference in TC mode is I get vapor more or less instantly but the bowl is spent only after two good hits but I get a lot of hot spotting in the middle. Now I have read that Smok devices are pretty crap at running it TC mode and am wondering if I will get better results if I get better mod for my Z?
I see a lot of people on here running mods with custom firmwares and I would like to try this too but I dont know which mod will get me the best results from my Z. Please can you help recommend a mod? with the best firmware.I believe the DNA mods are great in TC mode and also heard good things about the Wismec mods too. I do like the look of the Lost Vape 250c Paranormal and also the Triade and if there is something better then please let me know.

Thanks

Sullaskeez

Click to expand...

Two things to try: looser load packing and slower draw. Good luck!

pakalolo said:

Two things to try: looser load packing and slower draw. Good luck!

Click to expand...

Yes...do not pack the load down...use a medium grind.

At 42-44w in watt/power mode...I found a 5 second preheat, then a good 6-8 second slower draw, then let off the power for a second or two...then another draw for 6-8 seconds.

Do that with varying degrees of draw pressure.....you will get the feel of the heater better this way. Once you get a few hits in....its fairly warmed up and wont take as long to get vapor.

Sullaskeez said:

Hi, I have just recently got my hands on a Splinter Z. I decided since I already have a mod it makes sense without really breaking the bank compared to the prices of some of the vaporizers out there. Anyway I am using my Z with the Smok Alien 220 and am not really having the best time with it. I have tried starting out at 30w and get a nice taste but not much vapor. It takes ages to get going even if I hold down the button for 10 seconds before inhaling. I then I bump up the wattage to 35w less taste but more vapor but not enough. At 40-45w bit of a burnt taste. When I remove the stem to check the basket the herb isnt evenly roasted. Its darker in the middle but edges seem a bit green even after rotating the stem between hits. Now I tried TC mode 45W TC175 200c and I'm getting better results. The difference in TC mode is I get vapor more or less instantly but the bowl is spent only after two good hits but I get a lot of hot spotting in the middle. Now I have read that Smok devices are pretty crap at running it TC mode and am wondering if I will get better results if I get better mod for my Z?
I see a lot of people on here running mods with custom firmwares and I would like to try this too but I dont know which mod will get me the best results from my Z. Please can you help recommend a mod? with the best firmware.I believe the DNA mods are great in TC mode and also heard good things about the Wismec mods too. I do like the look of the Lost Vape 250c Paranormal and also the Triade and if there is something better then please let me know.

Thanks

Sullaskeez

Click to expand...

For a Z I recommend the Wismec RX Gen3 Dual or any of the two or three cell mods that support myevic or Arctic Fox.

I have a half dozen DNA or DNAc mods and they work great but with the scarcity and hundred dollar price difference for mods like the Paranormal (which doesn't have good ergos for a Z anyway) the rxg3d or Wismec Sinuous Ravage or Predator are the better value. Flash a $40 wismec mod with one of the firmware options above, accept the cold resistance, and try TCR 160, 50W max, and temps from 350 to 400°. My ZV2s work so well in that config that I often reach for them ahead of my DNA250C Splinters just because I don't have to fuck with a preheat.

Note that I hold the fire button a few seconds before starting my draw and then keep the button down the whole time while drawing for ten seconds or more. I don't know how sippers use their Splinters but for ten to fifteen second hits at medium draw speed all my Splinters work well with no hotspots and no button feathering required.

Let us know if you have any questions. I check the cheapvaping.deals site periodically for deals on wismec to DNA mods.

Gloss Gold rx gen3 dual from a US warehouse for $32 after code RG3:

https://www.sourcemore.com/wismec-reuleaux-rx-gen3-dual-mod.html?sscid=31k4_lqbrt

Or purple/brown from a US warehouse for $47 minus whatever code I might be missing;
https://vapesourcing.com/wismec-reuleaux-rx-gen3-dual-tc-box-mod-230w.html

The purple brown is a decent colorway for the Splinters.

pakalolo said:

Two things to try: looser load packing and slower draw. Good luck!

Click to expand...

I played around with different grinds from coarse to fine with loose and tight packs and found a medium coarse grind with a light pack seems to give better results. I guess it has to do with the air flow. Heat cant penetrate a densely packed bowl properly. Makes sense. Still gonna experiment a bit more but I am getting better hits now and a more even roasting, still not perfect but a significant improvement. Thanks

LabPong said:

Yes...do not pack the load down...use a medium grind.

At 42-44w in watt/power mode...I found a 5 second preheat, then a good 6-8 second slower draw, then let off the power for a second or two...then another draw for 6-8 seconds.

Do that with varying degrees of draw pressure.....you will get the feel of the heater better this way. Once you get a few hits in....its fairly warmed up and wont take as long to get vapor.

Click to expand...

Tried what you suggested with some success but my one takes longer to heat up in watts mode. Not sure if there is something wrong but it tends to get going after about 15-20 seconds and a slower draw does help for increased vapor production. Gotta practice my draw technique. Think I was pulling too hard. Thanks for the tips

bossman said:

For a Z I recommend the Wismec RX Gen3 Dual or any of the two or three cell mods that support myevic or Arctic Fox.

I have a half dozen DNA or DNAc mods and they work great but with the scarcity and hundred dollar price difference for mods like the Paranormal (which doesn't have good ergos for a Z anyway) the rxg3d or Wismec Sinuous Ravage or Predator are the better value. Flash a $40 wismec mod with one of the firmware options above, accept the cold resistance, and try TCR 160, 50W max, and temps from 350 to 400°. My ZV2s work so well in that config that I often reach for them ahead of my DNA250C Splinters just because I don't have to fuck with a preheat.

Note that I hold the fire button a few seconds before starting my draw and then keep the button down the whole time while drawing for ten seconds or more. I don't know how sippers use their Splinters but for ten to fifteen second hits at medium draw speed all my Splinters work well with no hotspots and no button feathering required.

Let us know if you have any questions. I check the cheapvaping.deals site periodically for deals on wismec to DNA mods.

Gloss Gold rx gen3 dual from a US warehouse for $32 after code RG3:

https://www.sourcemore.com/wismec-reuleaux-rx-gen3-dual-mod.html?sscid=31k4_lqbrt

Or purple/brown from a US warehouse for $47 minus whatever code I might be missing;
https://vapesourcing.com/wismec-reuleaux-rx-gen3-dual-tc-box-mod-230w.html

The purple brown is a decent colorway for the Splinters.

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Thanks for the suggestions. Checked the links and there is a really good deal on the rxg3d. Tempting but the Sinous Ravage looks nice too. Hard choice lol Might get a Wismec and a DNAc mod see which I prefer and then sell the one I dont want to a friend.
If you had to choose only one mod setup out of all the mods out there which one would it be?? and why??

All the best

Sullaskeez

Sullaskeez said:

If you had to choose only one mod setup out of all the mods out there which one would it be?? and why??

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Like I said yesterday, the rxg3d is is the best choice. It's affordable, available, supports the best firmware options, and it's the smallest two cell option that fits the chunky Splinter Z without making the whole setup too wizard wand.

Red Panda on the Sinuous Ravage has been performing great for me with a ZV2 or V2. The mod is a bit taller though so with a Z and a long XL8R it's a pretty tall setup.

It's mostly irrelevant which DNAc mods I like since they're sold out everywhere. I wouldn't pay $140 for a Paranormal when an rxg3d from a US warehouse is available for under $40.

bossman said:

Like I said yesterday, the rxg3d is is the best choice. It's affordable, available, supports the best firmware options, and it's the smallest two cell option that fits the chunky Splinter Z without making the whole setup too wizard wand.

Red Panda on the Sinuous Ravage has been performing great for me with a ZV2 or V2. The mod is a bit taller though so with a Z and a long XL8R it's a pretty tall setup.

It's mostly irrelevant which DNAc mods I like since they're sold out everywhere. I wouldn't pay $140 for a Paranormal when an rxg3d from a US warehouse is available for under $40.

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This. I have a paranormal and it’s my least used mod. The screen is minuscule and the mod doesn’t give me substantially better results than my Wismecs. Plus the fact that you can’t really turn it off, thus constantly draining batteries (I’d be happy to be set right on this if I’m wrong) is a drawback. I may see what kind of deal I can get on a Ravage.

I really like the Rx Gen3 dual.....the splinter Z is very balanced with the mod.

jbm said:

This. I have a paranormal and it’s my least used mod. The screen is minuscule and the mod doesn’t give me substantially better results than my Wismecs. Plus the fact that you can’t really turn it off, thus constantly draining batteries (I’d be happy to be set right on this if I’m wrong) is a drawback. I may see what kind of deal I can get on a Ravage.

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YESSS! tell me how to turn it off!!! how can that be!

My 1st order with RBT was incomplete.
Does anyone know another way to contacting RBT? I wrote to the email address on their site:
cole@rastabuddhatao.com

That was 6 days ago, no response.
Thanks

Got my splinter z v2 yesterday! I’m very impressive from the power and the vapor quality I’m using arctic fox on a wismec gen3 but I just use it with wattage mode and got even avb. 45 Watt with 60watt preheat for 3 seconds. Biggest clouds after my milaana 2 haha

I pulled the trigger and ordered a Rx Gen3 dual as recommended. Should be with me in the next few days. Will let you know how I get on with it once it arrives and I have had a good play around with it. Thanks to all for your good advice

Sullaskeez

testing the splinter z in tcr 125 and I’m quite impressed haha get 3 deep pulls full of vapor. I would say it’s more consistent if somebody have better settings just let me know

RustyOldNail said:

My 1st order with RBT was incomplete.
Does anyone know another way to contacting RBT? I wrote to the email address on their site:
cole@rastabuddhatao.com

That was 6 days ago, no response.
Thanks

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@RBTcole maybe Cole will see it here?

GerVn_Vap0rist said:

testing the splinter z in tcr 125 and I’m quite impressed haha get 3 deep pulls full of vapor. I would say it’s more consistent if somebody have better settings just let me know

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Great setup. Yeah, I use that combo but at TCR 165 and a 50W max with displayed temps from 350 to 390°.

bossman said:

Great setup. Yeah, I use that combo but at TCR 165 and a 50W max with displayed temps from 350 to 390°.

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Aight nice will I try your setup too man sounds very good