Divine Tribe atty's

OF said:

Any further on this sobering thought? May is getting closer, the e-cig madness seems to be growing still the question is will it spoil/kill things for us in their zeal?

Some of us are kinda interested......

Any update would be much appreciated, Matt. TIA



It's confusing for sure. But if you understand how TCR and temperature setting are used you'll see how there are many formulas that give the same answer. TCR, as we use it, is the 'thermal change in resistance with temperature' for the material used. Normally you find this as PPM (Parts per Million, as opposed to percent) in science books. To save display space we divide the real value by ten. So a TCR value we call 200 is really 2000 parts per million, .2 percent. So we anticipate .2% increase in resistance for every degree C rise in temperature (the number would be negative if the resistance went down, as it does in some materials). So, if we ask for a 180C rise (to 200C) the mod will look for 36% increase. But it would also look for this 'hidden value' if we said 300 for TCR and 120 C rise.

In algebra terms TCR is specified in 'percent per degree change', while the temperature is in degrees. So multiplying them cancels the degrees part and the answer is in percent alone.

What I'm saying is TCR and set value go hand in hand. You can increase or decease either and get the same results. You can tweak either and get the same result. Exactly. No real need to have adjustable TCR, or even the 'right' value if you can change the temperature enough to compensate. Or you can tweak the TCR value so you get the results you like with the temperature you think it should be. This is what I did to get the results I expected when I dialed up 390 F.

Regards tp all.

OF

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Thanks I’ve read your TCR math explanation before, a subject I was always bad at, but your last paragraph was easy to digest as understanding the relationship between TCR and chosen temperature.

Evolve “Replay” aside, I’ll go back to experimenting and choose my Titanium preset of TCR=366, since as I kept notes of many of the members settings here, many as low as TCR=230, and the high being the standard Nickel TCR=600.

TCR “366”, seems almost in the middle. I’ll leave the watts somewhere around the 35-50 range, and then simply change my temperatures and keep notes for dialing in. I’ll do this for both QQ and CCV2. Does this strategy seem logical?

I’ve been an ECig user since the days of “foam” cartos, collected a lot of mods, make my own coils and ejuice, but never delved very deep into how the math works. Ten years ago, the oil carts were all direct coil type, and in my opinion were just a quick answer, but I hated the few different types I tried for all the reasons seasoned dabbers already know. So I went with a Highly Educated Titanium nail. 10 years or so later, coming back to the portable wax atomizer scene, as I stumbled across these atomizers from Matt, and saw that he understood those issues, and worked on solving them, and I jumped back in. In an email with him, I said he has basically created a portable version of my NewVape DCup, sans the Sapphire dish.

Thanks again, learned a lot from your posts here, you are a smart dude, and know the gear very well.

RustyOldNail said:

Thanks I’ve read your TCR math explanation before, a subject I was always bad at, but your last paragraph was easy to digest as understanding the relationship between TCR and chosen temperature.

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You're welcome, glad I finally picked the right words for you. As they taught us in Teacher School, 'even the best lesson plan won't teach every student the first time'. Some folks get it right off, some need a repeat or two, others need to hear the lesson restated in different terms. While true for children (who learn by rote for the most part), with adults (who must make the new stuff 'fit in' with everything they already know to be true) it's even more extreme. Children learn to multiply by repeating tables, adults build skills step by step. Adults learn algebra based on their existing understanding of math, no way you can teach such a complex skill 'out of the chute'. On the plus side, once adults really make the link it's generally theirs for life.

Kudos to you, you kept an open mind and it's paid off. Ready for the next step?

Regards to all.

OF

I bought a “Sipper Bubbler Mouthpiece”, from PuffitUp. I don’t know how much actual water filtration it does, though there was many a “happy” review. It’s nice and small and if used intelligenty, no leaking. I mainly bought it, as you can SEE the vapor, something I miss using the QCV4, instead of the Quartz Quest with it’s clear mouth piece dome top.

Every now and then I try REPLAY on my DNA75c, and while that mode worked well for me when vaping EJuice, I’m finding that of course to get a decent replay, you need to get the timing of the first heat up button press, then quickly save it on the mod. Too long, too HOT, my last attempt, shatter not boiling, temp on replays after, too cool, lots of pooling. It just seems too unrepeatable, and therefore not reliable, for me so far. So I’m back to built-in Nickel preset, auditioning temps from about 450f and up, Watts = 45-50.

Since you can’t monitor the cup with the metal cap on, I first load, cap off, 1st fire, I go 5-8 seconds, or till I see boiling start, cap on, then slow pull, and pulse. Since I’m constantly getting mixed results, I have to believe, it’s my BAD pulsing technique. I’m either too cool, or too hot, chasing the temp. I like many of the improvements over the Quartz Quest, so I’m going to continue my journey, and the bubbler with its 14mm female glass, only works with the removable QCV4 drip tip’s 2. I bought 2 of each atomizers, if you want to use the Sipper Bubbler, you need to get the V4 14mm glass drip tip adapter. I got 2, one with each V4, but only one does not pull out when you remove the bubbler, there is only ONE O-Ring, unlike the stock V4 metal tip’s 2. I may try to find a slightly thicker o-ring, but the second one is better.

Any “pulsing”, or firing tips are welcome.

RustyOldNail said:

something I miss using the QCV4, instead of the Quartz Quest with it’s clear mouth piece dome top.
Since you can’t monitor the cup with the metal cap on, I first load, cap off, 1st fire, I go 5-8 seconds, or till I see boiling start, cap on, then slow pull, and pulse. Since I’m constantly getting mixed results, I have to believe, it’s my BAD pulsing technique. I’m either too cool, or too hot, chasing the temp.

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I couldn't agree more. Trying to use the V4 was like trying to drive blindfolded. This coupled with my lack of technique had me step back from the unit. It now collects dust mites.

BabyFacedFinster said:

I couldn't agree more. Trying to use the V4 was like trying to drive blindfolded. This coupled with my lack of technique had me step back from the unit. It now collects dust mites.

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I couldn't disagree more... I have better predictable hits using the V4 rather than the QQ although I agree there is some learning curve here too but I found it easier than with my QQ's. And it depends a lot the concentrate, some need more heat than others. And it depends the guys too, some prefer the V4 and others the QQ, that's all!

The website runs a bit slow but aside from that all fine.
Good luck with your sales.

Motar mouthpiece on the DCV4 will solve all your problems, those of you wanting to see the cup as you hit the device. I've got a really effective and easy setup I'm enjoying greatly.



By putting a 6mm glass bead in the top of the motar mouthpiece, all I have to do is double click my AF mod to start the autofire, and roll the ball with a finger while I draw, I get super great vapor production and I can vape with confidence seeing that my concentrate gets nowhere near the top of the cup since the glass mouthpiece allows easy inspection of everything. These mouthpieces are very cheap and the bead takes it to the next level at nearly no further investment. I came to the DCV4 from the Sai TAF because the replacement sai heaters were so much costlier than the DCV4's, and the DCV4 has the biggest buckets out of any of the 510 options I've seen. Been extremely happy with the dcv4 since I got it, like a little over a week ago. Don't think I'll be using my sai again.

Catweasel said:

Motar mouthpiece on the DCV4 will solve all your problems, those of you wanting to see the cup as you hit the device. I've got a really effective and easy setup I'm enjoying greatly.



By putting a 6mm glass bead in the top of the motar mouthpiece, all I have to do is double click my AF mod to start the autofire, and roll the ball with a finger while I draw, I get super great vapor production and I can vape with confidence seeing that my concentrate gets nowhere near the top of the cup since the glass mouthpiece allows easy inspection of everything. These mouthpieces are very cheap and the bead takes it to the next level at nearly no further investment. I came to the DCV4 from the Sai TAF because the replacement sai heaters were so much costlier than the DCV4's, and the DCV4 has the biggest buckets out of any of the 510 options I've seen. Been extremely happy with the dcv4 since I got it, like a little over a week ago. Don't think I'll be using my sai again.

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I didn’t know those glass mouth pieces existed, excellent suggestion, since you usage confirms it fits the DCV4.

I see they have a “vertical” version of that glass dome top mouthpiece as well. Anyone try that version?

RustyOldNail said:

I didn’t know those glass mouth pieces existed, excellent suggestion, since you usage confirms it fits the DCV4.

I see they have a “vertical” version of that glass dome top mouthpiece as well. Anyone try that version?

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Straight version has a slit cut in the side to let the air in.

Much better air flow with the angled version, bigger hits for sure.

Uitpersen said:

Straight version has a slit cut in the side to let the air in.

Much better air flow with the angled version, bigger hits for sure.

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Thanks, did some more reading, and it seems most recommend the bent version, I think it’s referred to as the “giraffe” mouthpiece, as the straight vertical one without a splash guard can get oil into your mouth. Probably easier to see into dish with the horizontal one as you are not directly over the unit. Going to buy today. More accessories... never ends.

Not sure why Matt of DT’s, doesn’t carry these mouthpieces, as a clear glass alternative, since he deals with Longmada as a supplier?

@Catweasel
Thanks again for the suggestion, on the glass “giraffe” mouthpiece. Received 2/$15, fast delivery.
The top airflow/carb is a BIG hole, I didn’t have a 6mm ball, my 5mm is too small and just blocks the airflow. Didn’t do too well using my finger on top. Definitely great being able to see what the glass bowl and concentrates are doing as you go. I’ll keep working at it.

RustyOldNail said:

@Catweasel
Thanks again for the suggestion, on the glass “giraffe” mouthpiece. Received 2/$15, fast delivery.
The top airflow/carb is a BIG hole, I didn’t have a 6mm ball, my 5mm is too small and just blocks the airflow. Didn’t do too well using my finger on top. Definitely great being able to see what the glass bowl and concentrates are doing as you go. I’ll keep working at it.

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Been using this for years, posted up here many videos.
Just drop down a 14 to 15 ga hollow SS needle down to bowl level
Gets the oil that used to climb the walls, lol.
Used it on Sai, Mole, DtV4 ect...

tennisguru1 said:

Been using this for years, posted up here many videos.
Just drop down a 14 to 15 ga hollow SS needle down to bowl level
Gets the oil that used to climb the walls, lol.
Used it on Sai, Mole, DtV4 ect...

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Impressive vapor, funny I was just looking at my old glass parts, but all the tiny inserts were not applicable for that huge top air intake hole. But I do have SS Luar Lock tips.

So you are saying as the tip is sitting in the top hole it should reach the bottom of the dish correct?

The longmada mouthpiece is my favorite way to use my V4, totally solves the issue of the stock mouth piece getting super hot and its nice to be able to see the crucible, I'll have to try that trick with the 6mm pearl. I have also paired the longmada piece with some whip and a silver surfer WPA to be able use my portable devices with my glass.

710yota said:

The longmada mouthpiece is my favorite way to use my V4, totally solves the issue of the stock mouth piece getting super hot and its nice to be able to see the crucible, I'll have to try that trick with the 6mm pearl. I have also paired the longmada piece with some whip and a silver surfer WPA to be able use my portable devices with my glass.

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How were carbing the top hole? I had to use my finger, or I got no vapor, it was like I was sucking the airflow from the top hole. Maybe the hole on mine is just larger, I’ll have to get the calipers out tomorrow. I do like the two small air inlet tubes on the metal cap, as they seem to sit very near the dish, a closer path to the oil. But need the clear glass.

RustyOldNail said:

How were carbing the top hole? I had to use my finger, or I got no vapor, it was like I was sucking the airflow from the top hole. Maybe the hole on mine is just larger, I’ll have to get the calipers out tomorrow. I do like the two small air inlet tubes on the metal cap, as they seem to sit very near the dish, a closer path to the oil. But need the clear glass.

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Just with my finger, usually I press the fire button on my mod for a few seconds then begin to hit it slowly then let my finger off once I had enough vapor. I do think there is some variance between units with these longmada pieces being china glass.

tennisguru1 said:

Been using this for years, posted up here many videos.
Just drop down a 14 to 15 ga hollow SS needle down to bowl level
Gets the oil that used to climb the walls, lol.
Used it on Sai, Mole, DtV4 ect...

Click to expand...

@tennisguru1

In your video, you are using the Sai QC, that cup sits a lot lower then the one on the V4 Quartz Crucible. There is very little space between the bottom hole on the “longmada giraffe mouthpiece”, and the top of the V4 quartz cup, maybe 1-2mm. So no matter what needle I use, it will have to be cut extremely short. I assume it should still work to cut off some airflow, as well as directing the air more directly into the cup itself.

I found my all stainless steel SS luer lock needles, I only have 12 gauge. I also have many of the plastic color coded ones with SS tips I can try before cutting the shaft down on an all metal version, and I have those in 14/15 gauge.

In the video you posted, there is also something that appears to be between the dish and the bottom of the mouthpiece, seemingly sitting on the shaft of the needle. What is that?

Thanks...

RustyOldNail said:

@tennisguru1

In your video, you are using the Sai QC, that cup sits a lot lower then the one on the V4 Quartz Crucible. There is very little space between the bottom hole on the “longmada giraffe mouthpiece”, and the top of the V4 quartz cup, maybe 1-2mm. So no matter what needle I use, it will have to be cut extremely short. I assume it should still work to cut off some airflow, as well as directing the air more directly into the cup itself.

I found my all stainless steel SS luer lock needles, I only have 12 gauge. I also have many of the plastic color coded ones with SS tips I can try before cutting the shaft down on an all metal version, and I have those in 14/15 gauge.

In the video you posted, there is also something that appears to be between the dish and the bottom of the mouthpiece, seemingly sitting on the shaft of the needle. What is that?

Thanks...

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The motar mouthpieces vary from the distance from the bowl, they are all over the place.
I use liquid silicone rubber to make my seals & bushings.
On the V4 just a 1/4 in sticking in and as I swirl it it cleans the sides .
On the bowls that are close like the V4 I also use some SS mesh , a little Brillo like
SS ball into hole diffuses the air and creates massive clouds.

tennisguru1 said:

The motar mouthpieces vary from the distance from the bowl, they are all over the place.
I use liquid silicone rubber to make my seals & bushings.
On the V4 just a 1/4 in sticking in and as I swirl it it cleans the sides .
On the bowls that are close like the V4 I also use some SS mesh , a little Brillo like
SS ball into hole diffuses the air and creates massive clouds.

Click to expand...

All great ideas.

Quick question:

In the video you posted, there is also something that appears to be between the dish and the bottom of the mouthpiece, seemingly sitting on the shaft of the needle. What is that?

BabyFacedFinster said:

I couldn't agree more. Trying to use the V4 was like trying to drive blindfolded. This coupled with my lack of technique had me step back from the unit. It now collects dust mites.

Click to expand...

33w ni200 tc mode at 380f-420f hold the fire button for 10seconds, let go. (That was the melt/preheat). Hold the button for another 10 seconds... You can either hit it with the button being held or after the ten seconds is up with out heat activated.

Its Its easier with artic fox and the autofire button!
--
Anyone have links to an american site to buy the mortor glass?

snamuh said:

33w ni200 tc mode at 380f-420f hold the fire button for 10seconds, let go. (That was the melt/preheat). Hold the button for another 10 seconds... You can either hit it with the button being held or after the ten seconds is up with out heat activated.

Its Its easier with artic fox and the autofire button!
--
Anyone have links to an american site to buy the mortor glass?

Click to expand...

https://www.nextdayvapes.com/Longmada-Motar-Glass-Mouthpiece-2-Pack_p_1661.html

Been having a bunch of fun playing with this bottomless banger.

Easywider said:

Been having a bunch of fun playing with this bottomless banger.

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That setup looks so clean! What mod is that?

510MOD said:

That setup looks so clean! What mod is that?

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Thanks! It's a lack of cables that makes it look so clean

The mod is an old school iStick Pico from fasttech i didn't expect too much swapping from my DNAc but the pico with AF and cruise is working out really well. It's really light so I'm not worried about stressing the banger either.

Easywider said:

Thanks! It's a lack of cables that makes it look so clean

The mod is an old school iStick Pico from fasttech i didn't expect too much swapping from my DNAc but the pico with AF and cruise is working out really well. It's really light so I'm not worried about stressing the banger either.

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Love the auto fire and cruise settings with the bottomless bangers.
I'm using Velcro to hold this 3 battery Joyetech cuboid to the rig

Easywider said:

Thanks! It's a lack of cables that makes it look so clean

The mod is an old school iStick Pico from fasttech i didn't expect too much swapping from my DNAc but the pico with AF and cruise is working out really well. It's really light so I'm not worried about stressing the banger either.

Click to expand...

Love the cruise and auto fire functions with the bottomless banger.
I'm using Velcro to hold this 3 battery Joyetech cuboid to the rig
p
http://imgur.com/a/SqkhEc6