Poostuff
Please delete
Hahaha good memory I forgot about that, it was a big deal for some people at the time.
Looking forward to some pics here but I’ll never use a case for mine.
The Nomad From Morwood
- Thread starter Dan Morrison
- Start date
Looking forward to some pics here but I’ll never use a case for mine.
Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
I have one for my Crafty and I’ll get to try it for fit when my Nomad II arrives. That case its job.
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
Number 038 in Nomad 2 first batch!
I'm having a hard time choosing a wood lol. Figured Walnut is gorgeous, the Amboyna Burls are amazing, love the Afzelia Xylay and the Spalted Tamarind is lovely too. I'm planning my second already...
I'm having a hard time choosing a wood lol. Figured Walnut is gorgeous, the Amboyna Burls are amazing, love the Afzelia Xylay and the Spalted Tamarind is lovely too. I'm planning my second already...
Terpenetime
Well-Known Member
I am soooooo looking forward to this weeks batch 4 update 
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
It's been said before but I'll say it again, Dan is amazing to work with! The suggestions he makes and the ideas he comes up with really make the process easy. If anyone is intimidated with the amount of choice when designing their Nomad, fear not, Dan will keep you on the right path.
Thatsmyb1kepunk
Active Member
Hey guys, this is my first time posting in here but, I was wondering if somebody could point me in the right direction? I received my nomad back in November but, I've had other kits I've been using and am just now getting to the nomad (low heat module). First off, congrats Dan, this thing is beautiful (really nice work) however, I'm having trouble getting desired draw and production. I've searched for how to, set up, first use, etc. but I can't find any info on actually using it. I'm wondering how much flower to use, how long the inhale should last, does it need to be heated before draw, does the cork stay in the glass piece (as a spacer), other things of that nature? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance guys.
Vaporware
Well-Known Member
Edit: After looking at that document again I see 8 second pre-heat is fine and damage shouldn’t happen until about 15 seconds without airflow.
I don’t have mine yet, but I can answer some questions.
I’m not aware of any cork, but if you mean the little wooden ring in the stem then it may help extract better and you would fill that ring as the bowl. It is optional though.
For the low heater especially, the draw should be long and slow, and you can pre-heat to get vapor sooner by holding the button for a few seconds before starting your draw. You should not hold it too long though or you could damage the wood! I think Dan said not more than 8 seconds (and I probably wouldn’t go past 5 or so just to be safe). I think I got that from the manual he probably sent you. If not I’ll see if I can find a link.
If you still want faster extraction, you might want to try the other heater if you have/can get it.
As for load size, if you don’t use the ring I think depth about the same as the inner width of the stem or less is what I’ve heard. You can load as much as you want, but at some point the stuff farther from the heater just won’t get enough heat.
Take all of that with a grain of salt because like I said I don’t have mine yet, but I think it’s pretty accurate.
Last edited:
Ramahs
Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
All I know is that there was no cork in mine. If you're talking about the wooden ring...as @VaporWare has suggested, that is to be used as a "capsule". You put your herb in there. It's not necessary, but I find that it keeps the glass stem cleaner for longer to use...especially when pushing the load back and fourth between one end of the glass stem or the other in order to get a more complete extraction without stirring.
Thatsmyb1kepunk
Active Member
Thank you sir for that info, all of it extremely helpful ... You mentioned a manual, I don't believe I received one, do you know if it would have been a hard copy included with packaging or delivered digitally (pdf, word, etc.)? Thanks for taking the time.
I feel real silly right about now... I was under the impression that you loaded the flower on the bottom of the screen closest to the heater and tamped it in, like you would with the mighty or crafty, but upside down. Thanks so much man! Also, how far from the heater do you set the capsule?
Last edited by a moderator:
Ramahs
Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
I put a screen on both sides of the capsule, like this:
And when the vapor starts getting a bit wispy, push the load to the other end of the stem and flip the stem over. You can get a few more hits and get a bit more of an even extraction. You can do the same without the wooden capsule, but it squashes the load tighter between the screens and leaves more reclaim on the sides of the glass.
That being said, try it both with and without the wooden capsule...because there are pros and cons to either method. I use it both ways, depending on my mood
Terpenetime
Well-Known Member
@Thatsmyb1kepunk here’s some user guides that you may find useful...
Quick Start Guide
https://imgur.com/a/HyCft1M
Updated Stem Loading Tutorial
https://imgur.com/a/Sg5FhsB
Cleaning & Maintenance Guide
https://imgur.com/a/nK2vuDx
Quick Start Guide
https://imgur.com/a/HyCft1M
Updated Stem Loading Tutorial
https://imgur.com/a/Sg5FhsB
Cleaning & Maintenance Guide
https://imgur.com/a/nK2vuDx
Vaporware
Well-Known Member
@Terpenetime linked the document I was talking about above (along with a couple of other useful things), and I was a little off in what I remembered about pre-heat times. 8 seconds is the longest recommended, but you shouldn’t damage anything until more like 15 seconds. Glad there’s more leeway there.
“But be cautious, a lengthy pre-heat time of more than 8 or so seconds is not recommended, this will only overheat the module and surrounding wood.
Permanent Damage may result from holding down the fire button for extended periods (more than 15 seconds) WITHOUT any airflow. The airflow through the heater keeps the temperature in the optimal range. Without airflow, the temperature will continue to climb until the heater module or wood is damaged.
WITH airflow, you can safely hold down the fire button for as long as you want, so long as that airflow is adequate enough to keep the heater in the correct temperature range. With the standard - Low heat module, you should hold the fire button down for the entire duration of your draw. You may even want to hold the button down between draws to keep the module hot, so long as you don't hold it down for more than a continuous 8 seconds WITHOUT airflow.”
Thatsmyb1kepunk
Active Member
Thank you so much Terpenetime!
@Terpenetime linked the document I was talking about above (along with a couple of other useful things), and I was a little off in what I remembered about pre-heat times. 8 seconds is the longest recommended, but you shouldn’t damage anything until more like 15 seconds. Glad there’s more leeway there.
“But be cautious, a lengthy pre-heat time of more than 8 or so seconds is not recommended, this will only overheat the module and surrounding wood.
Permanent Damage may result from holding down the fire button for extended periods (more than 15 seconds) WITHOUT any airflow. The airflow through the heater keeps the temperature in the optimal range. Without airflow, the temperature will continue to climb until the heater module or wood is damaged.
WITH airflow, you can safely hold down the fire button for as long as you want, so long as that airflow is adequate enough to keep the heater in the correct temperature range. With the standard - Low heat module, you should hold the fire button down for the entire duration of your draw. You may even want to hold the button down between draws to keep the module hot, so long as you don't hold it down for more than a continuous 8 seconds WITHOUT airflow.”
I really appreciate your help VaporWare! I'll report back after I put all the info together and spend some time with the Nomad... You guys are great!
Last edited by a moderator:
flammy
Well-Known Member
It looks like you got the loading part figured out. I personally use one of @mistvaporizer nippled cooling stems. I have the beta version which is compatible with only the Nomad 1 but the newer version is compatible with both the Nomad 1 and the Nomad 2. I will qualify this by saying that with the low heater, you don't need a cooling stem. That said, this is a very cost effective ($20) solution that only benefits the experience:
http://mistvaporizer.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=133
This has a fixed glass screen with a SS mesh cup screen as the bowl so it can't accommodate the wooden capsule which I have no problem with. I have a batch 1 Nomad so the wooden capsules were not available for that run.
I have both the low/high heater and use the low heater 99% of the time. I always prime the heater prior to taking a draw. I never hold down the button for more than 5 seconds consecutively without drawing. Typically, I will prime the heater by holding for ~3 seconds, release and then another button push for ~3 seconds, release, 3 seconds again and then draw. I am sure there are many other successful ways of doing this. As with any unregulated device, the experience is what you make of it.
As others have mentioned, the draw should be very slow. Once you start drawing, you should immediately feel draw resistance. Something about having a properly heated chamber increases draw resistance. I use this feedback to help me fend off combustion. Over time, you should be able to learn what the optimal draw resistance should feel like. Too much resistance means that you've got too much heat built up and you're on your way to combustion. Not enough resistance and you'll notice that you're getting little to no vapor production. With the proper technique on the low heater, I can achieve very quick extraction (minus the priming time) and I rarely combust.
If you received your Nomad in November and its been unused since then, you will need to clean all of the metal contacts to achieve optimal performance. If the Nomad goes unused for too long, a thin coat of patina will build up on the metal contacts and the Nomad is highly dependent on clean metal contacts to work. This contacts are crucial for how the button, heater and battery work together. You will need to disassemble by following the instructions as provided in the Cleaning and Maintenance Guide (thanks @Terpenetime):
https://imgur.com/a/nK2vuDx
Be very thorough with your cleaning. I know very well the temptation to baby the Nomad but you won't hurt it by cleaning with the included materials. Let us know if you need more help. Enjoy your Nomad...you're one lucky dude (or dudette)!
Last edited:
Xclerk
The Universe is our endless supply
flammy
Well-Known Member
No problem. Dan is busy slaving away on batch 4 so I offered to help him post these here. This isn't comprehensive as there are still a few custom units that have not been revealed.
Good call on the nippled stem. I need to snag a couple more myself. The beaded stems are nice too FWIW. Beaded stem provides more draw restriction so it can accommodate a faster draw speed.
The Nomad stems that @mistvaporizer had made aren't easy to find so I am going to drop a link here:
http://mistvaporizer.com/shop/index..._result&search_in_description=1&keyword=nomad
Last edited:
flammy
Well-Known Member
Thanks for posting @flammy
I think, but not 100% sure, the first (2) pics on the second post of pics is mine!!
Those olive burl ones are so gorgeous - definitely calling my name for Nomad II (no, my VAS is not a problem... not at all.)
Can't wait to see the sleeves. Great choice on yours @Jill NYC!
Alright don't be shy...step up and claim your Nomad! Who are the lucky owners?
Last edited:
almost there
Well-Known Member
thanks for the post. Mine is the last figured walnut unit with the padauk collar from the first post. Some real outstanding beauties in this batch