Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

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Chandler

Well-Known Member
Had a session, need to dial it in. Wispy vapor, nice flavor to begin with Ended up switching to watts n got 2 decent draws. Gotta wait till late night to resume testing. Definitely more even roast
 
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eideal852

Well-Known Member
Today only or what? I have some friends to tell about this sale
fyi, site says code invalid, but theres an auto -20% for almost everything. (NOT the 8.00 19-14 adapter, but almost anything else... I might have preordered TOO pre!)
 
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Chandler

Well-Known Member
Hmm. So questionable performance, my screen timesout after about 10 seconds and I think it stops firing as well so long draws resulted in weak results. I started refiring around time out and started to get better performance. I'm up to 425 f 50w and
.43ohms. I switched to wattage mode, 33 watts. The stem got hot pretty quick, but not much vapor. Some nice low temp effects, but not getting log strength yet... Later tonight I'll try some more combination, for now I switch to an actual log vape to put me back to sleep..

Thresholds. How much ohms of resistance is too much. What temps border on too high. What wattage is too high? How much max ohms to watts when in wattage mode?

Thanks yall
 

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
Hmm. So questionable performance, my screen timesout after about 10 seconds and I think it stops firing as well so long draws resulted in weak results. I started refiring around time out and started to get better performance. I'm up to 425 f 50w and
.43ohms. I switched to wattage mode, 33 watts. The stem got hot pretty quick, but not much vapor. Some nice low temp effects, but not getting log strength yet... Later tonight I'll try some more combination, for now I switch to an actual log vape to put me back to sleep..

Thresholds. How much ohms of resistance is too much. What temps border on too high. What wattage is too high? How much max ohms to watts when in wattage mode?

Thanks yall
I have a Splinter v2, not a z, but I found a huge difference if you dramatically slow your draw speed. Have you tried that?

And for me, I’ve settled in to wattage mode, with a modest preheat boost
 
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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Hmm. So questionable performance, my screen timesout after about 10 seconds and I think it stops firing as well so long draws resulted in weak results. I started refiring around time out and started to get better performance. I'm up to 425 f 50w and
.43ohms. I switched to wattage mode, 33 watts. The stem got hot pretty quick, but not much vapor. Some nice low temp effects, but not getting log strength yet... Later tonight I'll try some more combination, for now I switch to an actual log vape to put me back to sleep..

Thresholds. How much ohms of resistance is too much. What temps border on too high. What wattage is too high? How much max ohms to watts when in wattage mode?

Thanks yall
I'm not sure what's going on with this recent attempt you describe but that performance is unacceptable.

@Mr. Me2 is correct that slow long draws can be useful. In wattage mode you don't need to look at or think about the ever-increasing resistance being displayed. I think a smart move might be to focus on wattage for now and leave TC alone until you get your bearings.

One thing that might be an important factor in the woeful performance you describe is that the Z is slow to get going. I mostly can't be bothered to switch to wattage just for my manual preheat but it must be said that preheating of some kind is necessary and wattage is the quicker way to do that. You can preheat in TC but you see the wattage go from 60 in the first second or two down to ten or less pretty soon after so it won't have the same effect.

The Z taking a bit of effort to warm up combined with the notion of long slow draws is an important understanding. It sounds like you might be hitting it too hard while also expecting it to be quicker out of the gate than it is.

33w is on the low end for useful Z wattage and will be a more viable option on subsequent bowls once the device is heat saturated. Try wattage at 38 to 40W and before you start hitting it just hold the fire button for five or six seconds a couple times as your manual preheat. There's more finesse with TC since the interplay between resistance and temp is so important.

In wattage you should be able to draw at medium speed for around ten seconds and get good results. You need to monitor the heat on your throat to sense the vapor production and decide when to get off the button. Don't overdo the slow draw idea in wattage.

One other tip is that a warmed up Z can produce plenty of vapor in the seconds after you release the fire button. I tend to continue my draw for two or three seconds after getting off the button, especially at higher temps or once the Z is really cooking.
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Damn, was gonna grab a back up custom Z finally, Purpleheart this time, but I see they are sold out now... I could just get canarywood again to have it be a full on back up spare, or I suppose bubinga maybe, but I dono if I am feeling it or not... Anyone with a Bubinga Z wanna share some photos to tempt me?
 
Shit Snacks,

Stoned Llama

Active Member
If you put downward pressure on it while turning you might be able to unscrew it. Once you get it off the mod box, you can repair this yourself with some Krazy Glue or similar. This was a common problem with early beta test Splinters and I and a few other testers did this repair. I can't speak for the others but my beta Splinter has been fine ever since.

Hey my splinter got separated too. Is any kind of those super glues suitable? That metal gets hot as fuck wouldn't it be toxic?
 
Stoned Llama,

Summer

Long Island, NY
@Stoned Llama

From the RBT website.

Is adhesive used in RBT products and is it in the flow path?

Yes, Loctite® M-121HP™ Hysol® Medical Device Epoxy Adhesive (ISO 10993) is used to attach the rim of the heater glass to the wood. This is the coolest part of the heater glass and rarely does it reach over 150 degrees F which is well below the 300 F temperature limit of the this epoxy. The adhesive is not part of the primary flow path and has minimal exposed surfaces

Depending on the age and if you can prove the date of purchase this is normally covered under warranty.

You can also do a search in this thread & the Splinter thread for "glue" to see what others gave used.
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Hey my splinter got separated too. Is any kind of those super glues suitable? That metal gets hot as fuck wouldn't it be toxic?

The glue is nowhere near anything that gets that hot. The glass metal gets mildly warm but not hot enough to be a concern. As far as I know, any kind of cyanoacrylate is fine.

Edited to correct.
 
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pakalolo,
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androponic

vaped.
In one of ryans recent streams he said any two part epoxy should be good just follow the directions and equal parts and mix very thoroughly.
 
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bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Damn, was gonna grab a back up custom Z finally, Purpleheart this time, but I see they are sold out now... I could just get canarywood again to have it be a full on back up spare, or I suppose bubinga maybe, but I dono if I am feeling it or not... Anyone with a Bubinga Z wanna share some photos to tempt me?
My bubinga Z is a custom and the finish hasn't help up as well as my ZV1 and ZV2. Performance is close since they're all on DNAc mods but the Chinese Zs are both a bit more even too so you might consider a Chinese Z as your backup.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
My bubinga Z is a custom and the finish hasn't help up as well as my ZV1 and ZV2. Performance is close since they're all on DNAc mods but the Chinese Zs are both a bit more even too so you might consider a Chinese Z as your backup.

Yeah I don't want a ZV2 bc I already have V2 blackwood, want more wood variety (or more Canary apparently) and I like the style. In fact I aso may prefer the rougher feel of the custom Z to my smoother V2 (which feels unreal). Also near last chance for customs perhaps, though there are still more coming... Hmmm
 
Shit Snacks,

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
Hey my splinter got separated too. Is any kind of those super glues suitable? That metal gets hot as fuck wouldn't it be toxic?
The glue is nowhere near anything that gets that hot. The glass gets mildly warm but not hot enough to be a concern. As far as I know, any kind of cyanoacrylate is fine.

I need to clarify. First, I typed "glass" when I meant metal. (Edited to correct.) Second, someone questioned this so I did some tests. The connector does get warm during use, but not hot to the touch unless you run it for prolonged periods at high wattage. I just ran mine for 20 seconds at 35W and the plate was barely warm. After 20 seconds at 50W it was hot but not too hot to touch. Incidentally, as @androponic said, RBT recommends two-part epoxy.

 

FLelder ent

Well-Known Member
I've had my ZV2 for about a month now. I use wattage mode, 43W. I do a 5 second preheat, and then a 10 second slow draw. The first draw is a lot of terps, the second draw is much more dense / heavy. I then stir and the third draw is also dense/heavy, and my bowl is done. My abv is a consisitent brown. I find myself reaching for my Z more and more often now, in place of my other, long used, pieces. I am also getting great battery life with my mod . I am very satisfied! :peace:
 
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someTooL

Well-Known Member
Beyond satisfied with about two weeks of use. So much so that I’ve ordered a WPA attachment to fit my bubbler for this jewel. I’m getting around 5-6 hits starting at 36ish and stepping till 40ish. Hits 2-4 are pure peel the paint off the walls kinda hits with 38ish watts being my favorite so far. Surprised at the efficiency and ease of cleaning (none) too.
 

Stoned Llama

Active Member
Thanks for the help guys.

Glued it with epoxy yesterday and there was a bit of a smell that seems to be gone by now. I was a bit surprised by how simple the Z is. I thought the part I couldn't see had a bit more thecnology, but it is really simple. Seems like a similar vape could be made in a 3rd world country for like 20 ou 30 bucks.
 
Stoned Llama,

mucsusn

60 going on 20
Thanks for the help guys.

Glued it with epoxy yesterday and there was a bit of a smell that seems to be gone by now. I was a bit surprised by how simple the Z is. I thought the part I couldn't see had a bit more thecnology, but it is really simple. Seems like a similar vape could be made in a 3rd world country for like 20 ou 30 bucks.
That sounds about right for what Chinese Z’s retail for. Simplicity is their draw.
 

someTooL

Well-Known Member
Look what showed up today. Both tested and approved! :science:
727038-B0-5-A5-E-4667-9-A32-35-C90-C7384-F0.jpg


I bought the XL8R on a whim with the WPA and some baskets my main purchase. So glad I picked it up too. Super smooth. The WPA fits perfectly. Things about to get serious.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Hey folks ... anyone that purchases from RBT before midnight CMT 11/10 (Code by Cole in Prior post) gets entered to win the KG Woodcraft @khelek41girl Skeletor Finger VapCap Stem. Also a chance to see it and win it on IG!

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4dEuUAnUO2/

and actually seems like the code does not work anymore and there is no auto discount either like there was before... Correct me if I'm wrong, but I tried with a canary Z in my cart, before was auto
 
Shit Snacks,

tokenknifeguy

Well-Known Member
I got a DNA 75 mod and was wondering if there was any better options besides just wattage mode? Don't get me wrong, wattage mode gets me great results but was wondering if I could use some of these extra features on the mod for some temp control. Or has anyone used the lamart firmware or articfox with the Z with good results?
 
tokenknifeguy,

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
I got a DNA 75 mod and was wondering if there was any better options besides just wattage mode? Don't get me wrong, wattage mode gets me great results but was wondering if I could use some of these extra features on the mod for some temp control. Or has anyone used the lamart firmware or articfox with the Z with good results?
Indeed there is: @HerbieVonVapster created DNA and DNAc ecigprofiles for the Splinter and Splinter Z. You can run escribe on a computer and put them on your mod to take out the guess work and get great TC results with your Z.

https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/
 
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