sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
Is that the use of the little metal device that looks like a broom? Is alcohol necessary with the abrasive or is the abrasive enough by itself?
Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT
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Is that the use of the little metal device that looks like a broom? Is alcohol necessary with the abrasive or is the abrasive enough by itself?
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
I'd say abrasive first, but gently, if you scratch the metal too deeply the surface won't be flat anymore and it's not what you want either, then alcohol to clean afterwards.
Last time I used a fine grain sandpaper (i.e high grit number). I have a metal brush but it's too strong. The contaminant film is not thick usually, but it's not just merely dirt laying on the surface, the oxide layer is really part of the metal piece, albeit very thin.
Last time I used a fine grain sandpaper (i.e high grit number). I have a metal brush but it's too strong. The contaminant film is not thick usually, but it's not just merely dirt laying on the surface, the oxide layer is really part of the metal piece, albeit very thin.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
what's the resistance value?
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the help. Does the oxidation occur even if the mod and atomizer are paired?
If yes, how often should a mod and atomizer be separated for cleaning?
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
I'm no expert and contact resistance science is surprisingly more complex than what it looks like on a quick glance. It also depends a lot on the metals involved. Various kinds of plating (like gold and silver for instance) greatly increase the contact reliability.
With Brass and other Copper alloys, both air and contaminants will trigger oxidation. Finger greases and organic compounds are the #1 culprit when it comes to contamination, but air is always present. And it's not clear whether at the atomic level, what appears like a tight contact could well be a giant gap in reality or not. I assume air will always tend to find its way in, however slowly it goes...
So the solution with un-plated contacts is often to have them wiping. Good wiping contacts, like the tabs in your average electronic device AA/AAA cells tray, are a good example of how it works. Each time you insert or remove a cell, it scratches both the contact and the cell tip. A form of self cleaning action if you will.
The problem we face here is that: 1) our 510 contacts are not that much wiping (the center pin makes a twisting circular motion so it's not perfect, and well threads against threads, it grinds but surely not evenly due to tolerances) and 2) screwing and unscrewing your atty too often is known to create wear and tear, possibly prematurely damaging the mod and creating potential issues with TC...
I'm afraid there's no clear answer to your question mate!
With Brass and other Copper alloys, both air and contaminants will trigger oxidation. Finger greases and organic compounds are the #1 culprit when it comes to contamination, but air is always present. And it's not clear whether at the atomic level, what appears like a tight contact could well be a giant gap in reality or not. I assume air will always tend to find its way in, however slowly it goes...
So the solution with un-plated contacts is often to have them wiping. Good wiping contacts, like the tabs in your average electronic device AA/AAA cells tray, are a good example of how it works. Each time you insert or remove a cell, it scratches both the contact and the cell tip. A form of self cleaning action if you will.
The problem we face here is that: 1) our 510 contacts are not that much wiping (the center pin makes a twisting circular motion so it's not perfect, and well threads against threads, it grinds but surely not evenly due to tolerances) and 2) screwing and unscrewing your atty too often is known to create wear and tear, possibly prematurely damaging the mod and creating potential issues with TC...
I'm afraid there's no clear answer to your question mate!
whythefnot
New Member
Okay, new Z owner here, and admittedly I haven't read the entire thread. But I had some issues with TC on my device that I've solved and I wanted to offer the info I've learned and see if the community might be able to fill in the gaps in my knowledge and understanding of what's going on here.
I bought the Z sort of on a whim. If I had known about it sooner I probably would have bought it but I've been so thoroughly enjoying the Flowerpot rig I bought last November with the accompanying Blazy Susan I built to cart it around in while working from home all year that I wasn't too concerned with upgrading my portable rig.
So I wound up with a Chinese-built Z. That's ok, I wasn't sure I wanted to spend $200 on a dry herb attachment anyway, plus literally no one had them in stock. I wasn't knowledgeable about mods at that point and was just using a 150w cuboid that someone abandoned at my house years ago. It worked well enough. I bought my first Sai that same week so I was having a blast getting everything dialed in. I flashed myevic and tubo_myevic on it at different times just to compare and explore.
But I couldn't find a proper TCR value for the Z. I kept getting errors related to temp protection and the base resistance value that was locked in seemed to be causing the issue. I tried all the TCR values that people suggest here and none of them would work consistently. Repeat (replay) mode on the myevic worked really well, but I didn't feel like it was foolproof enough for some of the dunces and wooks I pass my vape to to prevent them from incinerating the bowl accidentally.
So I sprung for a DNA75C. Lost Vape Therion. It was practically impossible to find, although not as impossible as the Paranormal. After 3 weeks of hunting I finally had one in my hands. Beautiful mod, excellent in almost every way. Got my sai and Z entered in escribe and loaded the custom Z material file from fcshare right away. Everything worked great after a little dialing in, except the Z was still triggering the "temp protect" error message, now on the DNA chip. Either of the mods being to blame seemed very unlikely at this point.
I learned that unscrewing the device and slightly turning the pin at the bottom of the 510 attachment would reset the mod's memory of the device and allow it to continue working. Sometimes I'd need to pulse it in wattage mode to bring it to a higher temperature range before it would start working in TC again. Replay had the same issues, even worse. So the Cuboid/myevic wins on that count.
My baseline resistance was .39ohms. But in order to make the custom Z material profile work within a reasonable range, I had to bump that up to .42ohms and run at 420F (I'll admit, I enjoyed seeing .42Ω and 420° on the screen). That worked well for a session or two, but after a significant cooldown I'd still get the "temp protect" message.
Ultimately I realized I needed to modify the material file. With the resistance locked at .39ohms I adjusted the temp until I got the type of hit you'd get on a dialed-in vape around 340°F, then noted the value in esribe after loading the material file. Then I did the same for 380° and 420°F. I modified the material file to update the 360 - 420 range to the new values. Voila, perfect temp control on a DNA chip and no more annoying errors.
This whole process took around 2 months until now. This thread has been a huge help in understanding what's happening here. If anyone would like a copy of this material file I'm happy to upload it. I'm interested in hearing similar experiences, I can't be the only one who has gone through this.
I bought the Z sort of on a whim. If I had known about it sooner I probably would have bought it but I've been so thoroughly enjoying the Flowerpot rig I bought last November with the accompanying Blazy Susan I built to cart it around in while working from home all year that I wasn't too concerned with upgrading my portable rig.
So I wound up with a Chinese-built Z. That's ok, I wasn't sure I wanted to spend $200 on a dry herb attachment anyway, plus literally no one had them in stock. I wasn't knowledgeable about mods at that point and was just using a 150w cuboid that someone abandoned at my house years ago. It worked well enough. I bought my first Sai that same week so I was having a blast getting everything dialed in. I flashed myevic and tubo_myevic on it at different times just to compare and explore.
But I couldn't find a proper TCR value for the Z. I kept getting errors related to temp protection and the base resistance value that was locked in seemed to be causing the issue. I tried all the TCR values that people suggest here and none of them would work consistently. Repeat (replay) mode on the myevic worked really well, but I didn't feel like it was foolproof enough for some of the dunces and wooks I pass my vape to to prevent them from incinerating the bowl accidentally.
So I sprung for a DNA75C. Lost Vape Therion. It was practically impossible to find, although not as impossible as the Paranormal. After 3 weeks of hunting I finally had one in my hands. Beautiful mod, excellent in almost every way. Got my sai and Z entered in escribe and loaded the custom Z material file from fcshare right away. Everything worked great after a little dialing in, except the Z was still triggering the "temp protect" error message, now on the DNA chip. Either of the mods being to blame seemed very unlikely at this point.
I learned that unscrewing the device and slightly turning the pin at the bottom of the 510 attachment would reset the mod's memory of the device and allow it to continue working. Sometimes I'd need to pulse it in wattage mode to bring it to a higher temperature range before it would start working in TC again. Replay had the same issues, even worse. So the Cuboid/myevic wins on that count.
My baseline resistance was .39ohms. But in order to make the custom Z material profile work within a reasonable range, I had to bump that up to .42ohms and run at 420F (I'll admit, I enjoyed seeing .42Ω and 420° on the screen). That worked well for a session or two, but after a significant cooldown I'd still get the "temp protect" message.
Ultimately I realized I needed to modify the material file. With the resistance locked at .39ohms I adjusted the temp until I got the type of hit you'd get on a dialed-in vape around 340°F, then noted the value in esribe after loading the material file. Then I did the same for 380° and 420°F. I modified the material file to update the 360 - 420 range to the new values. Voila, perfect temp control on a DNA chip and no more annoying errors.
This whole process took around 2 months until now. This thread has been a huge help in understanding what's happening here. If anyone would like a copy of this material file I'm happy to upload it. I'm interested in hearing similar experiences, I can't be the only one who has gone through this.
Hey all... just a quick note to announce the appointment of cole@rastabuddhatao.com as the new CPO who will now be taking care of all customer service needs. He is @RBTcole round these here parts so congratulate and welcome him... RBT is stupid excited to have such a nice guy taking care of RBT Nation.
Congrats to @Summer for winning last weeks contest on IG.... next up a Splinter Z V1 with cooling kit.
Congrats to @Summer for winning last weeks contest on IG.... next up a Splinter Z V1 with cooling kit.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
@whythefnot: welcome!
You know, "temp protect" is not an error message mate, it's the (non-intuitive) way it works in these mods. When it reaches temperature, the power tapers down (when using PI mode in AF) or just cuts off (using the default algo) and the message is displayed.
You can disable it in escribe theme settings I think. But anyway, just pretend it's not here and keep drawing. Should work properly.
You know, "temp protect" is not an error message mate, it's the (non-intuitive) way it works in these mods. When it reaches temperature, the power tapers down (when using PI mode in AF) or just cuts off (using the default algo) and the message is displayed.
You can disable it in escribe theme settings I think. But anyway, just pretend it's not here and keep drawing. Should work properly.
LAWTHEONE
CLOUDYWITHFOG/ZEROVISIBILITY
Loving my Splinter Z. Getting some great results pretty fast. I did a lot of research first. I am running to Myevic software, I have the RX300 Wismec.
Unfortunately I already broke my large XLR stem. Had the stem on my lap forgot and it smashed against the tile floor. I asked before but I got mixed answers. Does the Tubo bent stem fit on the splinter Z US custom German glass?
Unfortunately I already broke my large XLR stem. Had the stem on my lap forgot and it smashed against the tile floor. I asked before but I got mixed answers. Does the Tubo bent stem fit on the splinter Z US custom German glass?
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
I think that it isn't, but The Nub from tubo fits.
nachooo
Well-Known Member
Regarding broken mouthpieces I usually buy cheap glass mouthpieces from aliexpress....but..I think that lot of people are suffering this issue...the mouthpieces use to roll and fall and break...over and over.... wooden ones do not break but are expensive...I built myself my wood mouthpieces anyway...but they are not easy to clean and flavour is compromised a little... So...a suggestion to @RastaBuddhaTao.. what about..provide the original glass stem with a kind of ring made of rubber or silicone that surround the glass and made it difficult to roll and also act as a shield in case of crash? Not very expensive but will save a lot of pieces...
Easywider
Simple is the way
Or a wooden stem with spiked glass cooling insert. My favorite right now is a wooden stem with a glass Charlie spiked glass insert. Cooling with protection.
LAWTHEONE
CLOUDYWITHFOG/ZEROVISIBILITY
Do you have a link for that?Or a wooden stem with spiked glass cooling insert. My favorite right now is a wooden stem with a glass Charlie spiked glass insert. Cooling with protection.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
shop.lamart.ch/index.php?route=product/category&path=64_77
virtualpurple
Well-Known Member
Well, I’m a little bummed.
I’ve been swapping my Z between my dna box and my Joyetech. I was using it on my Joyetech at 43 watts and thought my load was starting to scorch (it did). I put the Z down and went about with my task. After I returned to the room I kept smelling something Smokey. I grabbed my Z to smell the stem and saw a brown gross residue that was on my Z and my mod. I tried to remove it with warm water but it didn’t seem to cut it so I reluctantly used iso to clean it off and applied some wax to the wood after.
Has anyone experienced this before? I don’t commonly use my Z in wattage mode but I thought from what I had been able to read that I was safe in the mid-forties.
I’m not sure what the residue was but my Z feels a little rough in the hand now, I’m not sure if that’s because I had to wipe it down with iso in cleaning or if I overheated some sort of wood treatment for the Z.
Worse yet, my Z smells real strongly like a wood-smoker. I’ve cleaned the glass and screens both in my stems as well as wiping down inside the unit but to no relief.
Does anyone have an idea what could have happened? Additionally, does anyone have a suggestion for the smell?
I am well outside of my warranty on this, but if anyone thinks I’ve done something that makes this unsafe to use please let me know.
Thanks folks.
I’ve been swapping my Z between my dna box and my Joyetech. I was using it on my Joyetech at 43 watts and thought my load was starting to scorch (it did). I put the Z down and went about with my task. After I returned to the room I kept smelling something Smokey. I grabbed my Z to smell the stem and saw a brown gross residue that was on my Z and my mod. I tried to remove it with warm water but it didn’t seem to cut it so I reluctantly used iso to clean it off and applied some wax to the wood after.
Has anyone experienced this before? I don’t commonly use my Z in wattage mode but I thought from what I had been able to read that I was safe in the mid-forties.
I’m not sure what the residue was but my Z feels a little rough in the hand now, I’m not sure if that’s because I had to wipe it down with iso in cleaning or if I overheated some sort of wood treatment for the Z.
Worse yet, my Z smells real strongly like a wood-smoker. I’ve cleaned the glass and screens both in my stems as well as wiping down inside the unit but to no relief.
Does anyone have an idea what could have happened? Additionally, does anyone have a suggestion for the smell?
I am well outside of my warranty on this, but if anyone thinks I’ve done something that makes this unsafe to use please let me know.
Thanks folks.
Summer
Long Island, NY
@virtualpurple, I can't fathom how using it in wattage or at 43 watts would cause what you experienced, especially since it's not a new unit & has been used for some time without issue. Have you buffed anything onto the wood to preserve it? Did you have it in autofire/cruise mode & forget to shut it off or forgot to shut it off before it shut itself down via the preselected shutdown value? It's also conceivable that the mod is defective/failing since the Splinter is just a so-called dumb receiver that can't do anything without heat, hence, the mod being the culprit.
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Steven2003
New Member
hi there,
Hi there, not sure I’m posting in the right place. I have just got my splinter and using it with a Smok Morph MOD, I’m only getting 0.238 ohms sitting cold, my mate has one too but is is sitting at 0.38 ohms, he has a different mod. I don’t seem to be getting the clouds that his gets. Is there something wrong with my mod? Or is this correct?
Easywider
Simple is the way
My stem is from @Alan and the insert is from @VGOODIEZ they just happened to fit together with a few turns of some sandpaper.
The link @sickmanfraud gave is the only place I know to get them together but I can’t comment on how well the spiked glass insert works in comparison to the glass Charlie Dynavap stem.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
Can I ask which wood stem and which of the glass charlie stems?
Like @Easywider, I can not address a comparison. However, I can state that the spiked inserts work beautifully in the wood capsule stems from Lamart (@funkyjunky ).
The stems are pretty and functional.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
Basically that's why people like to use a DNA mod with the Splinter, it's just more accurate and reliable.
Did you check the resistance?
I've had a great session with the Z at 45w with a DNA250 mod, not even an hotspot.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I believe you both want the regular Splinter thread, this thread is for the Splinter Z
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/
virtualpurple
Well-Known Member
The mod I have does have funkyjunky’s firmware on it but i was only using it for single hits and did not have cruise mode engaged at all unless I accidentally landed myself in there.
Maybe I had forgotten to lock in my resistance? I’m not sure to be honest. I’d like to think I made doubly sure but swapping mods is a more recent occurrence for me since gaining access to cartridges.
So, am I likely stuck with this smell to my unit? That might end up being a dealbreaker, I don’t care for the taste that is left in my mouth after.
Bleh, I’m kicking myself over this. I love my Z.
Jayvape
Well-Known Member
Which symbol is the resistance value? Sorry I'm new to mods
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear about your accident with the Z.
One bright side, at least you can get another custom Z if finances allow.
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