DIY G43
- Thread starter Bumping Spheda
- Start date
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Haha. I've been doing some research, I think if I could attach the Ddave Ultimate cooling stem onto a Sticky Brick Hydro Maxx that that would do the trick for me. Instant vapor, basically.
This is a fun little project, though, I wonder what the merits are to this heating method.
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
Aerogel held in place by heatshrink?
You get various colours of heatshrink too.
Would look good if done neatly, and few worries re' heat too.
Hippie
Well-Known Member
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Nice idea, I'll probably use it. Thanks.
Kinda interesting. Not much on YouTube about it, I wonder how it hits. Would be awkward with Ultimate Cooling Stem, the flame intake would be on the bottom. You're also not saving much money over a Maxx, imo, and once the Maxx is all put away it looks rather inconspicuous to me, like an exotic wood case for something luxurious. I wonder how even the AVB is with the jetpack. :/ On second thought, the Ultimate Cooling Stem might not work with the SB Maxx just because it might restrict airflow too much for a rig like that.
Looking at this to seal the coil entry holes. Seems legit. They're in Bulgaria, though, lol, so shipping alone will be an arm and a leg.
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Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Nice size. Doesn't restrict airflow.
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Sorry for triple post, let me know if it's annoying, just trying to keep it fresh. Also sorry for photos being rotated 90 degrees, Idk how to fix it.
Wrapped a coil on 5mm glass rod and installed it on the Taifun GT III. It's hard to get the SS round wire to stay perfectly tight on the glass rod while you wrap the coil a million times, not the best thermal transfer, might have to invest in a coil jig? I'd imagine you'd get cleaner results that way, but who knows if you wrap a coil on a 5mm jig that the glass rod will just slide right in perfectly? Regardless, I think a triple coil could be nice for the size carbon filter I bought, but it complicates the build a lot, imo. Dunno what to do atm. Running more coils (maybe even 4) a little cooler sounds like a nice compromise with heat up times and overheating (@Hippie mentioned scorching if left heating up too long, and the aerogel insulation would only exacerbate that trait by trapping in more heat, I'd imagine). Let me know what you guys think. More coils running cooler? Keep it simple and just run dual coil? Here's a picture of four glass rods in the carbon filter:
As you can sort of make out in this photo, after the coil heats up to a certain point the DNA board reads "Ohms Too High" in orange at the bottom. If this was a dual coil I think it'd be fine on the DNA. The glass rod was getting nice and toasty during trials, it seemed to continue to heat up (to a degree) even while reading "Ohms too high". No glowing wire. Running everything off a box mod ala G43 would be pretty clutch, actually, haha. I wonder how long a triple 18650 could power this thing for.
Waiting on aerogel insulation, copper screw terminals, 2.5mm glass beads, butane to fire polish the glass rods, and the constant voltage buck converter. Sounds like everything, I know, but you'd be surprised, I've got a drawer getting fuller by the day with stuff for this project.
Probably no update for a while given how long it will take for crucial stuff to ship. I might mess around with wiring some double or triple coils in private and see what the DNA250C can do, but that's about all I can do with what I have. I think the buck converter with a quad coil build would be dope.
Wrapped a coil on 5mm glass rod and installed it on the Taifun GT III. It's hard to get the SS round wire to stay perfectly tight on the glass rod while you wrap the coil a million times, not the best thermal transfer, might have to invest in a coil jig? I'd imagine you'd get cleaner results that way, but who knows if you wrap a coil on a 5mm jig that the glass rod will just slide right in perfectly? Regardless, I think a triple coil could be nice for the size carbon filter I bought, but it complicates the build a lot, imo. Dunno what to do atm. Running more coils (maybe even 4) a little cooler sounds like a nice compromise with heat up times and overheating (@Hippie mentioned scorching if left heating up too long, and the aerogel insulation would only exacerbate that trait by trapping in more heat, I'd imagine). Let me know what you guys think. More coils running cooler? Keep it simple and just run dual coil? Here's a picture of four glass rods in the carbon filter:
As you can sort of make out in this photo, after the coil heats up to a certain point the DNA board reads "Ohms Too High" in orange at the bottom. If this was a dual coil I think it'd be fine on the DNA. The glass rod was getting nice and toasty during trials, it seemed to continue to heat up (to a degree) even while reading "Ohms too high". No glowing wire. Running everything off a box mod ala G43 would be pretty clutch, actually, haha. I wonder how long a triple 18650 could power this thing for.
Waiting on aerogel insulation, copper screw terminals, 2.5mm glass beads, butane to fire polish the glass rods, and the constant voltage buck converter. Sounds like everything, I know, but you'd be surprised, I've got a drawer getting fuller by the day with stuff for this project.
Probably no update for a while given how long it will take for crucial stuff to ship. I might mess around with wiring some double or triple coils in private and see what the DNA250C can do, but that's about all I can do with what I have. I think the buck converter with a quad coil build would be dope.
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Hippie
Well-Known Member
I don't think I've seen any coil jigs that go up to 5mm. You could wrap something around the biggest rod in the pack to make it as big as you like but I don't think my coils are any better with a coil jig than they were when I used screwdrivers and drill bits tho to be honest (and my glass rods aren't very round anyway).
Do you know the max resistance before the DNA chip said no more?
3ohms is the max for most mods which means that the max we can go with SS is a lot lower, as the resistance increases with temp.
I dunno how you'd wrap 3 SS coils on a single rod. I thought I was being clever wrapping the dual Kanthal coils I have in mine at the moment with all 4 tails in the centre lol
I think my next build will be a single coil of 26gauge SS about 43cm long. According to my maths it'll be borderline too high as I'm expecting it to go up 15 - 20% and can always chop a bit off if it is too high.
Do you know the max resistance before the DNA chip said no more?
3ohms is the max for most mods which means that the max we can go with SS is a lot lower, as the resistance increases with temp.
I dunno how you'd wrap 3 SS coils on a single rod. I thought I was being clever wrapping the dual Kanthal coils I have in mine at the moment with all 4 tails in the centre lol
I think my next build will be a single coil of 26gauge SS about 43cm long. According to my maths it'll be borderline too high as I'm expecting it to go up 15 - 20% and can always chop a bit off if it is too high.
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
That's disheartening. I mean the glass rod seemed to heat up fairly quickly, I guess hand wound coils will have to do.
Ummm, actually, I don't know what the resistance was at max, however I do remember the mod asking me to reset the resistance after I had heated it up[ a bunch and when I did it read 4.85 or something, it was near 5 Ohms, IIRC.
No no no, I would have three separate glass rods each with their own SS coil wrapped around it.
I gotcha. One long, narrow airpath?
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Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
So much for no updates in a while. Got the buck converter. This thing is tiny. Wired up a DC jack pair to the battery and buck converter, looks like so:
Cut a small washer in half and soldered the power wires to half a slug each.
Shove the half washer between the battery contacts:
Seems to cap the voltage. Notice at the top I set output voltage to 13V and output amps to 3.55A, yet actual output is 9.5V @ 3.55A... As I up the amperage the voltage raises, though, which is weird, it like can't output low amps at higher voltage (even though the input voltage is 39.22V right now, look at the bottom, plenty of juice). Volts and Amps sort of go hand in hand as Watts increases, so it would seem.
Haven't tested it for very long, but dual coils seem to heat up similarly to the DNA250C mod at the settings shown (I didn't push the DNA board too hard, tbh). Turned her up to 4.55A, ~55W, and them coils cook, haha. I think the G43 could benefit from a setup like this, for sure... Ingenious idea, @Hippie
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Oh! @Hippie I checked the DNA mod for you again, it cuts out at 5 Ohms, I'm positive this time. Hooked up a single coil, cooked her 'til it read Ohms Too High and remeasured resistance at 4.98 Ohms. So I guess the DNA's go a couple Ohms higher than most other boards.
Cut a small washer in half and soldered the power wires to half a slug each.
Shove the half washer between the battery contacts:
Seems to cap the voltage. Notice at the top I set output voltage to 13V and output amps to 3.55A, yet actual output is 9.5V @ 3.55A... As I up the amperage the voltage raises, though, which is weird, it like can't output low amps at higher voltage (even though the input voltage is 39.22V right now, look at the bottom, plenty of juice). Volts and Amps sort of go hand in hand as Watts increases, so it would seem.
Haven't tested it for very long, but dual coils seem to heat up similarly to the DNA250C mod at the settings shown (I didn't push the DNA board too hard, tbh). Turned her up to 4.55A, ~55W, and them coils cook, haha. I think the G43 could benefit from a setup like this, for sure... Ingenious idea, @Hippie
-Edit-
Oh! @Hippie I checked the DNA mod for you again, it cuts out at 5 Ohms, I'm positive this time. Hooked up a single coil, cooked her 'til it read Ohms Too High and remeasured resistance at 4.98 Ohms. So I guess the DNA's go a couple Ohms higher than most other boards.
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Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Drilled holes in the carbon filter. Gotta make sure the holes are aligned just right so the coils/rods are straight up and down. If this doesn't make sense, the coil lead enters on top of the coil near the bottom of the carbon filter, yet exits underneath the coil upon exit... the glass rod is 5mm in diameter, which means the holes should be displaced at least 5mm from top to bottom. Anyway, pics of my handiwork. Was a bear to get the coils in there.
Wire leads twisted to keep coils nice and tight on the glass rods.
Not bad. Not perfectly in the four corners, but really not bad, should heat up fairly evenly, imo. Hope I don't get hot spots.
Waiting on the Copper screw terminals before I wire these coils up for testing. I believe they all have the same number of wraps so they SHOULD all heat up.... but I'm not looking forward to trialing and error-ing this one out. Hoping wires can be pulled ALL THE WAY THROUGH the Copper screw terminals otherwise it will be (?near?) impossible to keep tension on coils. Dunno if you can picture this, hard to describe.
Also, the glass beads I bought are 2.5mm in size, so very small. They fall out of ONE hole in the carbon filter and I don't want to mess with more screens, so I'll be purchasing an 18mm female glass stopper to go on the bottom of the carbon filter. I'll just fill it all the way up with glass beads and they won't be able to go anywhere. Looking at a metal keck clip for the stopper just in case, don't want anything melting here. I think it's far enough away it'd be insulated by all the glass, but gonna try to just go metal without any regrets.
DDave Ultimate Cooling Stem order got canceled due to legal issues his website is going through. In light of that I'll probably be purchasing a smoked XL8R cooling stem and screens from RBT for this project.
Wire leads twisted to keep coils nice and tight on the glass rods.
Not bad. Not perfectly in the four corners, but really not bad, should heat up fairly evenly, imo. Hope I don't get hot spots.
Waiting on the Copper screw terminals before I wire these coils up for testing. I believe they all have the same number of wraps so they SHOULD all heat up.... but I'm not looking forward to trialing and error-ing this one out. Hoping wires can be pulled ALL THE WAY THROUGH the Copper screw terminals otherwise it will be (?near?) impossible to keep tension on coils. Dunno if you can picture this, hard to describe.
Also, the glass beads I bought are 2.5mm in size, so very small. They fall out of ONE hole in the carbon filter and I don't want to mess with more screens, so I'll be purchasing an 18mm female glass stopper to go on the bottom of the carbon filter. I'll just fill it all the way up with glass beads and they won't be able to go anywhere. Looking at a metal keck clip for the stopper just in case, don't want anything melting here. I think it's far enough away it'd be insulated by all the glass, but gonna try to just go metal without any regrets.
DDave Ultimate Cooling Stem order got canceled due to legal issues his website is going through. In light of that I'll probably be purchasing a smoked XL8R cooling stem and screens from RBT for this project.
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Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Got some of the terminals in, these work, will have to order a few more now. Should have ordered a different product, this other thing is like a dollar more but comes with more terminals, I could have wired everything up by now if I'd just got that. Free shipping, so not a huge deal, the aerogel is taking it's time anyway, this won't be finished until mid October, probably.
Anyway, I got three of the coils wired up, threw the beads in, installed some SS mesh up top. Dude, this LCD buck converter tops out at like only 5V, 5A when three coils are wired...
When only two coils are wired it's like 13V, 5A IIRC. The whole thing gets fuggin' hot with two or three coils going, doesn't seem to matter much, maybe 13V@5A is a bit much, Idk. Buck converter heat sink gets pretty hot, needs a fan or bigger heat sink. So do I even wire the fourth coil, though? I'll be at like 2 Volts then... Do I need a 48V battery instead of 40V? This buck converter only takes 50V, I believe. Eh, I'm not so sure more coils = better in this situation, but there's also this which tops out at 15A and is actively cooled. Seems much better suited for our needs except it's got two boards, so it makes this project even LESS portable... and more expensive. This project has been adding up. @_@XL8R out of stock. Whoops. Contacted DDave, he'll be up and running early October it looks like, he set up the website so I could place another order for a 510 box mod Ultimate Cooling Stem, he had like three in stock it said, so glad I got in line early, I need something at least, and the coils are closer to the top so it makes sense to pack your herb up top. RBT stems make the most sense to me, as opposed to j-hooks ala G43.
I blew air through this while it was getting hot, the air that got to my hand near the male joint at the bottom was pretty warm, not vaporization warm, though. I noticed VERY HOT air leaking out the coil entry holes, those obviously need to get sealed. I'm not sure I let it reach it's highest temp, I was pretty consistently blowing through it to get the machine oil smell off the coils (it's pretty much gone now, I've actually inhaled warm air through the unit while hot and it virtually tasted like a clean glass piece to me). I'm pretty excited to see how well (if) it works when it's done, the project's sort of actualizing in my head just now, this thing could be really, really dope, imo. It didn't seem to take THAT long to heat up (maybe I was running her too hard?), aerogel insulation will decrease this time further, and with it being insulated you could have it getting to temp while laying on your desk as you grab something to eat, or even let it reach temp while everything is sitting in the passenger seat of your car, or you put the unit upside down in the cup holder or hold it in your hand, even, the cord could be like 6 ft or so. This could be extremely functional if everything's done right. I just hope maintaining a good vape temp is easy. I'll deal with longer heat up if it hits like a champ consistently.
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Hippie
Well-Known Member
Ooooh it's starting to take shape now 
I did wonder if you'd done the maths before building the coils
A decent boxmod will give you accurate readings and tell you the real numbers tho.
It's easier to pulse the coils to balance them and find the power level at which they start to glow with a boxmod too.
I would connect them up individually at first to check their resistances and pulse them a bit to sort out any hot spots then try them in dual, triple then quad combinations on the boxmod to get an idea of the voltage to set the converter (and the current that will require).
I think yours will probably need about 25W max in use which the 3005 converter should be able to handle, with the right coils. I use mine at about 21W (2.75A 7.6V) with no noticeable temp increase.
With hindsight I'm still not sure if I should have advised a bigger converter to use with that big battery like https://ebay.us/f97pgC as I dunno how much current the battery pack can handle. I checked a few specs sheets and didn't really get answer, the one time I saw the max power mentioned in a similar Black and Decker compatible battery pack the specs it said 90W for a 20V pack which would mean only 4.5A max.
I did wonder if you'd done the maths before building the coils
A decent boxmod will give you accurate readings and tell you the real numbers tho.
It's easier to pulse the coils to balance them and find the power level at which they start to glow with a boxmod too.
I would connect them up individually at first to check their resistances and pulse them a bit to sort out any hot spots then try them in dual, triple then quad combinations on the boxmod to get an idea of the voltage to set the converter (and the current that will require).
I think yours will probably need about 25W max in use which the 3005 converter should be able to handle, with the right coils. I use mine at about 21W (2.75A 7.6V) with no noticeable temp increase.
With hindsight I'm still not sure if I should have advised a bigger converter to use with that big battery like https://ebay.us/f97pgC as I dunno how much current the battery pack can handle. I checked a few specs sheets and didn't really get answer, the one time I saw the max power mentioned in a similar Black and Decker compatible battery pack the specs it said 90W for a 20V pack which would mean only 4.5A max.
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Tyty. It's coming along.Ooooh it's starting to take shape now
Lol. Maths? No, none of that.I did wonder if you'd done the maths before building the coils
Hrm. I would need a different theme on my Triade in order to see Voltage and Current levels while firing.
![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
I hooked the triple coil as it is up to my Triade, though, and it reads 0.88Ohm's which means another coil should put it around 0.66Ohm? I don't need to pulse the coils, though, there aren't any hot spots as it is a spaced coil. I should have pulsed them to burn off the machine oil before putting in the glass beads, but I forgot.Hrm. Yeah, maybe I'll have to wire two coils in series with each other that runs parallel to two more coils in series. That tmight get my resistance/Wattage numbers where they need to be.
Hrm. I've run the 40V pretty hard before, but that's nothing to really boast about. I ran the vape for a few minutes today, the triple coil, set up a screen few mm's away from the screen keeping all the glass beads inside, I packed some CBD flower on top, then slapped a third screen over the other two to trap the herb. Then I just tried hitting it with a glass female to female used as a makeshift mouthpiece (need some distance from heater, too hot on lips) and at max settings it doesn't vape, barely any terp flavor, if any. Bit disappointed, I think it's still those coil entry holes, they're letting cool air rush in, the only air that gets heated by the beads is what little air found less resistance the long path through them as opposed to just straight up the coil entry holes (surprisingly a lot, the air still felt warm on my lips and throat, much like a real vape). We'll figure it out. Wiring coils in series, running the battery a little harder with a more expensive LCD step-down converter...? Haha, I know you're probably against that last idea. I really don't want to have to invest in an expensive battery for this project, though, and I have poor luck making my own packs (but then again the pack I was making could have handled like 600W, so it was a bit of a monster and I was out of my league).
I expect the 18650's to be high drain, this battery runs a powerful brushless motor in the weed wacker that we have. That motor's gotta be at least 200W I wanna say. Should I contact Black & Decker about power consumption on their 40V Max tools?
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Hippie
Well-Known Member
I think getting some flavour coming through at this point is a good sign but to get up to temp as quickly as you want I think you're gonna need to push more current through the coils than than the 3005 will allow 
I was thinking you could maybe cover the holes with silicone vape bands for now but they're only good up to about 300 degrees C
While thinking about your wires I watched a De Verdamper video and had another DiY idea
I think I might have to get a Dimroth condenser tube like these
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32855005461.html
and see if I can thread a wire through the internal spiral for an all glass airpath vape.
I was thinking you could maybe cover the holes with silicone vape bands for now but they're only good up to about 300 degrees C
While thinking about your wires I watched a De Verdamper video and had another DiY idea
I think I might have to get a Dimroth condenser tube like these
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32855005461.html
and see if I can thread a wire through the internal spiral for an all glass airpath vape.
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Hrm. Idk, I think putting two coils in series with each other could solve my issue, just waiting on another terminal. After that arrives we'll see where we stand.I think getting some flavour coming through at this point is a good sign but to get up to temp as quickly as you want I think you're gonna need to push more current through the coils than than the 3005 will allow
I can actually seal 6 of the 8 coil entry holes right now, but the last two can't be sealed as I need to take a few wraps out of the coil going through them and connect it nice and tight to the terminal blocks before I do that. Are you interested in the results of the vape at temp with 6 of the holes sealed? The DDave stem should arrive tomorrow...
Hrm. I think the air gap is too big in the tube, your airpath won't get remotely near vaping temp, imho, unless your wire is a beastly gauge and you're pumping made juice through it. I think you'd be better off going with a design ala Lamart, but instead of coiling your resistance wire inside the glass straws, just wrap your coils nice and tight on the exterior of the straws. If done right you can basically get an airpath that doesn't see the SS or Kanthal coils that you use. Idk how you'd do it, but I have faith, haha, it can be done.While thinking about your wires I watched a De Verdamper video and had another DiY idea
I think I might have to get a Dimroth condenser tube like these
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32855005461.html
and see if I can thread a wire through the internal spiral for an all glass airpath vape.
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Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
High temp adhesive says it fully cures in 15 min at 170F. I says I'm game. Sealed up the 6 holes, set step down converter for like 3A, let it reach temp and let it sit for 20 min. Barely any voltage drop in the battery, this thing is actually funny, like you could take this thing camping no problem, battery will last for days under heavy use it seems. Anyway, stuff looked hard, I blew air through it for a bit to make sure I wouldn't inhale anything from the adhesive. Then packed a bowl of CBD flower and started hitting it. Nothing. Maybe some flavor. Turned it up to 4A. Not much. Turned it up to 5A. Hrm. Let me take a really long, slow draw... Holy shit, I feel that hot arid air on the back of my throat! It's working. Exhale? Visible vapor. We're there, boys. Idk, 5A might still be too much, maybe I was impatient with the heat up time, who knows. Will be interesting to test this unit further, honestly, I'm pretty stoked so far.
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Damn, that De Verdamper vape looks pretty rad. Custom glass is expensive, though, I guess.
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Damn, that De Verdamper vape looks pretty rad. Custom glass is expensive, though, I guess.
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Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Black&Decker:
I hate that it rotates my pictures, haha. Female to female adapter on bottom makes a nice handle and allows ait to pass freely. The glass beads stopped falling through the unit after I jam packed them in there and sealed it off with the SS screen, the beads don't shift at all anymore, so I'm not worried about the beads falling through the female to female that much, but still, I bought that end cap, I think I'll drill holes in it so air flows through it (no restriction, hopefully), fill it up with beads and use it, it'll still be chill to hold I think.
It'll be a chubby boy when it's finished with the aerogel insulation, haha.
I love this stem, but I hate the screens it comes with. I'm going to try and buy screens from RBT and hope they fit, I think. Looking like an actual product now, almost.
Dialed it all the way up to 11... 30W, light vapor. Still 2 unsealed coil entry holes, and I think running coils in series will get the unit even hotter at lower wattages, but will have to test that.
You get a little conduction action going if you leave the cooling stem in the unit, the glass heats up around the herb as it reaches temp so the convection doesn't have to work as hard, I think (I wonder if the SS mesh screen insulates the herb any from the glass). Pretty cool.
Welp. Completely unsupported. I thought these guys supported the DIY scene more than that, but understandable, the fact they responded that way makes me feel bad for contacting them in the first place, just a waste of their time, they don't benefit from helping me, really. I'm fairly certain these are high drain power tool batteries, though, I think running them at 5A, even, should be no issue for the pack at all, imho. There's a bunch of connectors in between the positive and negative terminal of the battery, it's meant for charging, I believe, I think those wires are for balancing the cells? But the Battery Management System (BMS) circuit inside this battery SHOULD have over-current limiting hardware between the cells and output terminals, so even if I'm a monkey and try to run them too hard the BMS will compensate for me... I THINK! Power tool batteries should be chill, imho, at least for something in range of a G43...
I hate that it rotates my pictures, haha. Female to female adapter on bottom makes a nice handle and allows ait to pass freely. The glass beads stopped falling through the unit after I jam packed them in there and sealed it off with the SS screen, the beads don't shift at all anymore, so I'm not worried about the beads falling through the female to female that much, but still, I bought that end cap, I think I'll drill holes in it so air flows through it (no restriction, hopefully), fill it up with beads and use it, it'll still be chill to hold I think.
It'll be a chubby boy when it's finished with the aerogel insulation, haha.
I love this stem, but I hate the screens it comes with. I'm going to try and buy screens from RBT and hope they fit, I think. Looking like an actual product now, almost.
Dialed it all the way up to 11... 30W, light vapor. Still 2 unsealed coil entry holes, and I think running coils in series will get the unit even hotter at lower wattages, but will have to test that.
You get a little conduction action going if you leave the cooling stem in the unit, the glass heats up around the herb as it reaches temp so the convection doesn't have to work as hard, I think (I wonder if the SS mesh screen insulates the herb any from the glass). Pretty cool.
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Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Don't even feel the vapor going in, this stem is so smooth.
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Hippie
Well-Known Member
Looks like you're well on track to making a heavy hitting portable session vape 
I think it'll be capable of clearing a basket screen in 2 draws or ripping through a bigger bowl like a flowerpot after it's been on for a few mins.
I finally got around to trying 40cm of 26AWG SS in mine today, which worked the same as the Kanthal really. About the same wattage required for about the same vapour production. Didn't manage to get temp control working yet as I only found out today the max cold resistance for sur_myevic is 1.5ohms soooooo the next coil will be either 25cm of 26AWG or about 40cm of 24AWG 316L SS to be in range to have a play with TC on the mod or I can go up to 7.5V with the step down for a max of 37.5W which is about twice the power I've been using with the other coils so it should only need about 4V once it's warmed up.
I think RBTs top hat basket screens are the same as DDave's (15mm rim 12mm id and 8mm deep). I like the look of the screen in DDave's pack that you can push in the stem, that's what I'm trying to do at the moment. I'm waiting on some Arizer ones that I'm hoping I can wedge in about half way down the stem and not have to drill a 12mm hole in something and push a screen in it to make my own or spend £20 on 4 VapeXhale ELBs.
Liked the idea with the coils on the outside of the tubes, by the way. I tried using the 40cm 26gauge SS wire wrapped around a VapoCane before I stuck it in my T53 and got nothing altho it did turn a nice shade of blue after being on for 10 mins
I think it'll be capable of clearing a basket screen in 2 draws or ripping through a bigger bowl like a flowerpot after it's been on for a few mins.
I finally got around to trying 40cm of 26AWG SS in mine today, which worked the same as the Kanthal really. About the same wattage required for about the same vapour production. Didn't manage to get temp control working yet as I only found out today the max cold resistance for sur_myevic is 1.5ohms soooooo the next coil will be either 25cm of 26AWG or about 40cm of 24AWG 316L SS to be in range to have a play with TC on the mod or I can go up to 7.5V with the step down for a max of 37.5W which is about twice the power I've been using with the other coils so it should only need about 4V once it's warmed up.
I think RBTs top hat basket screens are the same as DDave's (15mm rim 12mm id and 8mm deep). I like the look of the screen in DDave's pack that you can push in the stem, that's what I'm trying to do at the moment. I'm waiting on some Arizer ones that I'm hoping I can wedge in about half way down the stem and not have to drill a 12mm hole in something and push a screen in it to make my own or spend £20 on 4 VapeXhale ELBs.
Liked the idea with the coils on the outside of the tubes, by the way. I tried using the 40cm 26gauge SS wire wrapped around a VapoCane before I stuck it in my T53 and got nothing altho it did turn a nice shade of blue after being on for 10 mins
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
I think it already cleared a smaller bowl in like two hits, and that's with the open coil entry holes. I think once all coils are wired and all holes are sealed I believe it'll cache out surprising amounts of weed in a single hit for something this size. The bowl is obviously not as big as a Flowerpot, but if I mess around with deeper bowls ala G43 and such results could be interesting.Looks like you're well on track to making a heavy hitting portable session vape
I think it'll be capable of clearing a basket screen in 2 draws or ripping through a bigger bowl like a flowerpot after it's been on for a few mins.
This is gonna be dope. Running coils like this off a box mod in TC offers preheat options and what not. Could be pretty interesting. Waiting on more from this project, can't wait to see what you do.
Oh, darn, never even thought about VapeXhale ELB's... Hrm. Thanks for another great idea.
-Edit-
Bought a dual pack of ELB screens directly from VapeXhale for $16 shipped using Sneaky Pete's coupon code. These should be a nice upgrade.
-Edit 2-
Lol! It took them 36 minutes to ship them!
Hrm. Having difficulty picturing this, I'm not familiar with either product. I mean, it sounds interesting. Again, I like the design of the TetraX/Tubo Dual: the instant heat up, the quality results, it seems like a strong unit and the heater element seems rather simple. I don't think it's the most efficient design, but it obviously runs off dual 18650's so it ain't bad by any stretch... and then there's us heating up about a lb of glass... and I'm talking efficiency, haha.Liked the idea with the coils on the outside of the tubes, by the way. I tried using the 40cm 26gauge SS wire wrapped around a VapoCane before I stuck it in my T53 and got nothing altho it did turn a nice shade of blue after being on for 10 mins
Anyway. Second vape sesh if you're interested in hanging out with me (it's a bit boring, you can skip to 3:20 to see me vape the thing if you want). Took this vid last night. I talk about the project a bit, design concerns/thoughts, but mostly I cache a bowl in two full hits, almost 100% cached by my standards.
Got the aerogel in the mail, haven't really looked at it yet, but it feels incredibly stiff in the bag, will be hard to manipulate. I wonder if there's something to soften it up a bit so I can wrap it.
-Edit-
I forget what they're called, those things inside the VapCap tips that click at certain temperatures. You guys think I should mount something like that, or some sort of thermocouple device, onto this unit underneath all the aerogel so I know the temp... at least roughly? With tthe unit exposed I can guage the temp by how much heat rolls off the glass into my face, butt once the aerogel is on it'll be a guessing game, I feel. Would be cool if it clicked when it was ready.
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Hippie
Well-Known Member
With a stainless steel coil the resistance changes with the temp so the wattage and current being supplied by the step down change too - so I know my SS coil T53 is up to temp when it gets down to about 17W (from nearly 22w to when cold), in the same way I know when the G43 is at temp when when powered by the step down. Which is basically how boxmods calculate the temp and how PID boxes work.
I was thinking a section of glass that changes colour at temp could be nice too
Sorry for the confusion - I'm calling my DiY G43 a T53 again (T shaped glass, 5mm rod, 3 mm beads)
And this is a VapoCane http://www.vapocane.com/
So I wrapped the coil around the outside of the VapoCane tapered inlet tube like an extra long enail coil
I was thinking a section of glass that changes colour at temp could be nice too
Sorry for the confusion - I'm calling my DiY G43 a T53 again
(T shaped glass, 5mm rod, 3 mm beads) And this is a VapoCane http://www.vapocane.com/
So I wrapped the coil around the outside of the VapoCane tapered inlet tube like an extra long enail coil
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
Hippie
Well-Known Member
I did think about wrapping some coils around a revolver bowl, ya know
They're a little cheaper on DHGate
https://www.dhgate.com/product/glas...l-for/409090412.html?skuid=462414255981514752
They also make them with a few moar arms too
https://www.dhgate.com/product/revolver-glass-bowl-8-arm-taster-bowl-for/409383190.html
I'd definitely gonna try wrapping some coils around glass tubes at some point so something like these might be easier than cutting glass tubes ourselves.
They're a little cheaper on DHGate
https://www.dhgate.com/product/glas...l-for/409090412.html?skuid=462414255981514752
They also make them with a few moar arms too
https://www.dhgate.com/product/revolver-glass-bowl-8-arm-taster-bowl-for/409383190.html
I'd definitely gonna try wrapping some coils around glass tubes at some point so something like these might be easier than cutting glass tubes ourselves.
Bumping Spheda
Well-Known Member
What's that fat center tube on the octo-revolver? 8 coils is too much current, need longer tubes, tbh, not more tubes.
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