Volcano Hybrid

Poostuff

Please delete
Opened the App last night while I was using it & tried to connect, all of a sudden the Volcano shuts down in the middle of the session & updates the firmware. Looks like that’s solved my connection problems!

The first thing I did was dim the display & turn off the Volcano vibration to stop that face full of vapor from the whip when it reaches temperature.

I’ve been using this exclusively since I got it, still love it but with all that use I’ll need a new whip soon. There’s no plant material in the whip just big blobs of vapor sublimated into reclaim & suck to the sides.

It does have 15 hours on it already but I left it on standby one or two days so I’m thinking the usage time must include standby or sleep mode.

The reducer was included in my package but that probably depends on who you buy from.
 

WakeVape&Bake

Well-Known Member
good to hear that your Bluetooth problems are solved!

you can buy a few metres of quality tube online and just cut it to your liking, no need to buy this original tube. the original tube is 30€ for 3x 1 metres of tube, this is an insane price.

i can recommend Kuriyama Kuri-tec tubes, these are high quality heat resistant industry tubes which i always used for my Extreme Q.
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
Or, try this $1/ft, high temp silicone tubing from amazon (black for kicks)

hybrid-tubing.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LG6Y81X
 

SixStringToker

Naked member
Does anyone know what Storz & Bickel is actually using for their tubing? It's not like any silicone tubing that I've bought before. All of the tubing that I've used before is a hardcore lint/fur magnet that just makes me cringe (so I always sleeve it), but fur and lint don't stick to the Hybrid's tubing.
 

mroverst

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know what Storz & Bickel is actually using for their tubing? It's not like any silicone tubing that I've bought before. All of the tubing that I've used before is a hardcore lint/fur magnet that just makes me cringe (so I always sleeve it), but fur and lint don't stick to the Hybrid's tubing.
Im curious about this too.
 

Poostuff

Please delete
I think I’d like a glass connector for the whip, mostly to stop the hot vapor hitting the silicone when I’m using it at 230c.
The immediate contact point with the vapor is right at the bend of the whip & it gets very hot there which bothers me.
For now I’ve found that a tera WPA seals onto the chamber reasonably well & I’ve got a 14mm dropdown sitting on that. I can connect a whip using the 14mm adapter from the Evo whip.
The hot spot then becomes the top of the glass dropdown. This works for me & it’s stable enough to use without holding but it’s not as convenient as the genuine.
If someone makes a 3rd party glass whip adapter & doesn’t get sued I’ll buy it.

On another note I’m going to have to use something else for a while because this thing is wrecking me. It’s just so quick & strong. I find I’ve turned it on & used it before I can think twice about it & then, by the time I change my mind it’s too late :lol:

I’m glad I bought one, it’s the best vaporizer purchase I’ve made since the Sublimator.
 

ejackyou

Hamilton
QUESTION :hmm:

Rather than Postulate, :rant:

Knowing that the temperature probe on the Volcano is located at the heat exchanger.

Does the digital temperature readout represent that of the heat exchanger temperature?

Or, does the readout represent a tested and calculated Default, temperature for the :sherlock:

the flower/filling chamber?

Any definitive answers? :popcorn:
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
@ejackyou - Like you said, the sensor is not in the bowl. Temp displayed on vapes is usually after some preprogrammed adjustment

You asked for a definitive answer, and perhaps this part of the Volcano manual comes close:

Manual-temp-section.jpg


They really don't get specific. Vague phrases "for technical reasons" and "indicates the reference value" -- I interpret that as they did chamber sensor temp testing during design, and chip got programmed to subtract X degrees from heater sensor reading to approximate chamber

@stickstones and @Stu did lots of thermocouple testing in these threads. You may find them interesting

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/arizer-portable-heater-tech-discussion.25914/

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vape-temp-profile-charts.25780/
 

ejackyou

Hamilton
@ejackyou - Like you said, the sensor is not in the bowl. Temp displayed on vapes is usually after some preprogrammed adjustment

You asked for a definitive answer, and perhaps this part of the Volcano manual comes close:

Manual-temp-section.jpg


They really don't get specific. Vague phrases "for technical reasons" and "indicates the reference value" -- I interpret that as they did chamber sensor temp testing during design, and chip got programmed to subtract X degrees from heater sensor reading to approximate chamber

@stickstones and @Stu did lots of thermocouple testing in these threads. You may find them interesting

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/arizer-portable-heater-tech-discussion.25914/

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vape-temp-profile-charts.25780/

So what Your saying is, You don't exactly know for sure? :uhoh:

I too, wondered about that last sentence, especially the term "reference values". :brow:
 
ejackyou,

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
@mroverst - the amazon link for tubing is under that picture

Saw vapecritic use calipers on S&B whip: 12mm outer and 8mm inner

Amazon description says good up to 250C, thick walled like S&B tube, doesn't feel very sticky

I uncoiled some and let it try on a canvas sleeve. Not a tight fit, so no struggle when time for a tube change. Sleeve is 3 ft, tubing came in 5 meter roll, so can make five cheap whip changes. In a prior post, I showed a green insulated hydration tube cover. The insulated ones are very difficult to put on and take off, but they are more elegant. Suppose you could use velcro wrap to neaten canvas cover ends. Got mine on ebay, search hydration tube cover, then choose non-insulated canvas style

Tube-Cover.jpg
 

Silat

When the Facts Change, I Change My Mind.
@mroverst - the amazon link for tubing is under that picture

Saw vapecritic use calipers on S&B whip: 12mm outer and 8mm inner

Amazon description says good up to 250C, thick walled like S&B tube, doesn't feel very sticky

I uncoiled some and let it try on a canvas sleeve. Not a tight fit, so no struggle when time for a tube change. Sleeve is 3 ft, tubing came in 5 meter roll, so can make five cheap whip changes. In a prior post, I showed a green insulated hydration tube cover. The insulated ones are very difficult to put on and take off, but they are more elegant. Suppose you could use velcro wrap to neaten canvas cover ends. Got mine on ebay, search hydration tube cover, then choose non-insulated canvas style

Tube-Cover.jpg

Where is the link?
 

caliganja420

Well-Known Member
How is everyone running their Temps? Hasn’t really been discussed here. I like to start a balloon at 390, then another balloon at 420 and then a last one at 440. Really enjoying my hybrid, i have never used a desktop so much. I really hated the classic because of the long heat up time, harsh vapor and really had no features at all, except 2 buttons.
 

JPE

Well-Known Member
How is everyone running their Temps? Hasn’t really been discussed here. I like to start a balloon at 390, then another balloon at 420 and then a last one at 440. Really enjoying my hybrid, i have never used a desktop so much. I really hated the classic because of the long heat up time, harsh vapor and really had no features at all, except 2 buttons.
I think the biggest thing no one is talking about is the vapor quality difference from the classic. Its much smoother, I need a classic next to me to compare.
 

Poostuff

Please delete
I’d still use the classic for balloons, I find it’s only harsh if I overpack the chamber. Plus it has a completely different vape signature from the Hybrid.
I’m running mine on the higher temperatures around 220c/428f but I also use 230c/446f at times.
My whip needs replacing already but the App is showing it’s had 26hrs of use so that’s to be expected.

Edit: I was checking the top of mine under light to make sure it was clean & noticed the conduction ring is full of scratches & scores. I thought it was shiny & unblemished when it was new but I’m not sure. Could this just be from screwing the chamber on & off or is this just how it’s machined?

 
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WakeVape&Bake

Well-Known Member
one thing i´ve noticed is when it is completely silent in the room the Hybrid has some kind of electrical noise that comes in intervals, i know this sound normally from oldschool PC active speaker boxes. seems like it is the transistor of the device.

you can hear it if you put your ear near to the Hybrid and just wait a minute or two, it comes in intervals and it is not there all the time. it happens more often when the device in on cooldown.

this can get quite annoying when someone is sensitive to high frequency sounds, i have to unplug the Volcano before going to sleep.( it stands not far away from my bed so i could hear that sound well).

everytime i replug it i have to put off "display on cooldown" in the app because it gets resetted when unplugging...

can´t quite understand why the unit has no on/off switch tbh, it is either standby or pulling the plug
 
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Poostuff

Please delete
I can’t hear any noise from mine @WakeVape&Bake I’ve got good hearing but I’m not sensitive to sounds. I can hear the inverter on my eNano but nothing from the Hybrid.
I’d also like a power off button but I noticed that a few new products don’t have this like say the Apple HomePod. Not sure why but if I had to guess I’d say it’s cheaper maybe.
 
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