Dabpress Rosin Plates

rouxdy

rouxdy

Well-Known Member
JohnnyMauser said:
Hey Guys, pressed a lot since i got my dp-bj3t33. Now i want to share some results and questions i have over the time...
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You might look into "chottle style." I have the same press and I had a lot better results with the bag open on both ends.

As to pressure... it's a "feeling" the material gives you that you're looking for. Pump it down until there is good resistance at the handle... where you'd have to lean on it to get it to go lower... lift the handle, wait a bit... 30 seconds... and then ease the handle down. It will give a little more before you have to lean on it.

I repeat that until it is at the point where it isn't going to give any more... keep it there 5 to 10 seconds and then release.
 
LesPlenty

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
rouxdy said:
I had a lot better results with the bag open on both ends.
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I would say to hold off on this until you get to know your way around the machine pretty well, the only blowout I have had was when I tried this open-end method (and ripped the parchment paper and made a small mess), I still got just over 15% return but I usually push 20%:2c:
 
psychonaut

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
JCat said:
I wonder about doing a quick wash instead? Or perhaps do a bunch of water soaks first to get rid of chlorophyll? (to improve taste!)
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I have done two washes with 4.4oz of pucks in filters in my pint mason jar. So far after a 12h soak, I poured out a brown tea looking liquid. Not sticky. The filters still seem sticky. I then filled the pucks again to cover them with more water. Dumped it after a 7 hour soak, and still a tea colored water came out. Will keep soaking and rinsing the pucks and will eventually do the 190 proof soak after the water soaks are pouring more clear.
 
Hogni

Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
Why so long? Resin just needs a few seconds to solve in alcohol. Much faster than solving the chlorophyll out of the material. When this happens you'll get a green-brownish bitter-tasting mixture for sure. Just that's the reason for the term and tech 'quick wash' and the use of a Buchner-funnel combined with underpressure for fastest filtration.
 
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invertedisdead

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Hogni said:
Why so long? Resin just needs a few seconds to solve in alcohol. Much faster than solving the chlorophyll out of the material. When this happens you'll get a green-brownish bitter-tasting mixture for sure. Just that's the reason for the term and tech 'quick wash' and the use of a Buchner-funnel combined with underpressure for filtration.
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I was thinking since most of the resin on the outside of the plant has already been expressed during the squish that a longer solvent soak might be able to reach some of the internal crevices of the plant that the press may have missed. I'm not sure how effective the solvent really is at penetrating a compressed puck though. I guess that begs the question is a quick wash just cleaning the bag with ethanol?

Sounds like an experiment! Not sure anything could be quantified without running analytics though.
 
JCat

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Hogni said:
Why so long? Resin just needs a few seconds to solve in alcohol. Much faster than solving the chlorophyll out of the material. When this happens you'll get a green-brownish bitter-tasting mixture for sure. Just that's the reason for the term and tech 'quick wash' and the use of a Buchner-funnel combined with underpressure for fastest filtration.
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I think @psychonaut is doing long water soaks ... and like @invertedisdead said ... the quick ethanol wash will maybe not properly permeate through the compressed pucks to get out the oil?

The purpose of this extraction is for edibles, so want to maximize the extraction while minimizing any off flavour.

I'm quite excited to hear @psychonaut 's results with this method of a water cure before wash; might be a really good, and efficient, use of leftover pucks :)
 
psychonaut

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
Hogni said:
Why so long? Resin just needs a few seconds to solve in alcohol. Much faster than solving the chlorophyll out of the material. When this happens you'll get a green-brownish bitter-tasting mixture for sure. Just that's the reason for the term and tech 'quick wash' and the use of a Buchner-funnel combined with underpressure for fastest filtration.
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I'm just washing with water, the resin is washed once this tea liquid looks more like water. Then I hope for a quickish wash with alcohol.

One hurdle I see is the pucks are now waterlogged lol. Do I wait and wash them in alcohol after they dry?
 
JCat

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
psychonaut said:
I'm just washing with water, the resin is washed once this tea liquid looks more like water. Then I hope for a quickish wash wi4h alcohol.

One hurdle I see is the pucks are now waterlogged lol. Do I wait and wash them in alcohol after they dry?
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Yeah ... I was wondering the exact same thing! I guess if you don't, you'll just have a higher percentage of water to wash off, and might not get as good of extraction as the ethanol's percentage would diminish when diluted ... (at least that's the thoughts I had on the matter ... no practical experience here to speak of yet though :) )
 
MonkeyTime

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
invertedisdead said:
I was thinking since most of the resin on the outside of the plant has already been expressed during the squish that a longer solvent soak might be able to reach some of the internal crevices of the plant that the press may have missed. I'm not sure how effective the solvent really is at penetrating a compressed puck though. I guess that begs the question is a quick wash just cleaning the bag with ethanol?

Sounds like an experiment! Not sure anything could be quantified without running analytics though.
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The way I was thinking it through, we're water curing, already traditionally cured, decarbed, compressed, weed.

I'm not sure it'll do much, but I'm eager to hear about it!

@psychonaut , I've water cured plenty, I've never seen brown! Yellowish/Greenish, yes, I think that is a result of the decarb during the press? I'll start some soaking tomorrow night so we have some different strains to compare with. I'd say let them dry naturally before the ethanol, no sense in diluting it. *(Edit) like @JCat said!

@JCat , I was thinking about that, but I'm of the belief that most of the rosin is on the outside of the puck or caught in the filter. If so, no problem. If not.... maybe a longer soak will permeate?

So many variables to consider, this is going to take a lot of testing!
 
Hogni

Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
Sorry, my misunderstanding!

I think a QWET or a QWISO only makes sense with quick-washing the whole frozen pucks and the bags. After that break the pucks apart a bit and make some Canna butter or -oil if you want all the rest of the goodies out of them. Butter you can purify after that.
 
psychonaut

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
dron19 said:
@psychonaut use your press cold of course to lightly press out some water then do the alcohol wash.. I’d be afraid the compressed waterlogged material will be quick to mold... just s thought
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I am not worried of the mold here, RH is 27% indoors. I'll spread them out on a cardboard box and blow a fan over them to speed up the process. That is a good point for those in more humid areas, i.e. anywhere but the west!

That's an interesting thought on cold compressing them to expel the water. Driptech? ;)

@MonkeyTime I dont think it is overly decarbed, but these pucks have been sitting in a closed mason jar for however long it took for me to build them up, 3 months? Temps have varied but I am sure there is some oxidization in the puck that could contribute to this off color.

When I wash them in alcohol the oil is dark green, nearly black. What I am hoping for this go around is something that's perhaps a little closer to bronze or brown.
 
pxl_jockey

pxl_jockey

Just a dude
:tup: I’m gonna sit over here in the corner and let the grownups figure this shit out. I love this brain trust, with its particular set of skills, I know we’ll have a best practice for getting the most outta your chips published here sooner than later. I really like the space that @psychonaut has made here, so much is explored and discussed here beyond just dabpress info but it’s such good knowledge and experience base for maximising a person’s success. And it’s all free*!!!

*If you don’t mind reading, that is... wait a minute, that’s exactly what we need: @psychonaut reading this thread in downloadable audio, like Morgan Freeman doing an Audible book! :lol:
 
Hackerman

Hackerman

User
All my old pucks go into the crock pot (about 4 oz at a time) with a cup of butter/oil and enough water to cover the chips. After about 10 hours and several stirrings, the pucks are just a mush. Strain and fridge. After it hardens, drain the water and wash again (heat the butter in water just until melted and then fridge again to harden). After 2 or 3 washings, the water comes out clear.

I make caramels from the butter or oil. My friends love them.
 
pxl_jockey

pxl_jockey

Just a dude
Dear @Hackerman have you by chance posted that canna-caramel recipe anywhere on FC? :brow: Your process of dealing with the pucks is the one I’d try first, even though I have a fifth of everclear on hand for tinctures. And what kind of freak doesn’t love caramel? I’m talking about just the normal decadent buttery caramels.
Much less those Hackerman’s Recipe Caramels that make you feel so :smug:?!
 
Hackerman

Hackerman

User
Caramels are super easy. That's one reason I do them.....

Time Required: 25 minutes

Yields 3 to 4 Dozen Pieces

What You Need:

  • 9” x 13” pan (I use a candy mold that makes 2"x2" pieces)
  • Medium sized saucepan
  • 1 cup CannaButter
  • 2 ¼ cups brown sugar
  • Dash salt
  • 1 cup light corn syrup
  • 14 ounces sweetened condensed milk (canned)
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Steps:

  1. Melt Cannabutter slowly in saucepan.
  2. Stir in brown sugar and salt until combined.
  3. Stir in light corn syrup
  4. Add milk slowly while constantly stirring.
  5. Cook mixture over medium heat until candy begins to get firmer. (Usually 12 to 15 minutes.)
  6. Remove saucepan from heat and stir in the vanilla extract.
  7. Pour mixture into pan. Allow for candy to cool down.
  8. Cut, serve, and store.

Between steps 3 and 4, I add a tablespoon or 2 of liquid sunflower lecithin. Lecithin aids in bioavailabilty.

These are too weak for me with my tolerance but I cut the 2x2 pieces into 4 and wrap 1x1x1 pieces in wax paper. Most people are happy with one. Some take two. My guitar player ate a 2x2 piece (4 pieces) and said it "weaponized" him. LMAO He didn't want any more after that. LMAO
 
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rouxdy

rouxdy

Well-Known Member
LesPlenty said:
I would say to hold off on this until you get to know your way around the machine pretty well, the only blowout I have had was when I tried this open-end method (and ripped the parchment paper and made a small mess), I still got just over 15% return but I usually push 20%:2c:
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Well, you only had one blowout because once you saw what too much pressure will do, you haven't done it again.
 
LesPlenty

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
elmomuzz said:
Here is some white rosin being produced. The quality is very high. :)

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What temperature did you use? That lookss awsome:tup:

rouxdy said:
had one blowout because once you saw what too much pressure will do
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Same pressure with same sized 10g puck I always do, only ever blew out with open-end method.
So what pressure (gauge) do you recommend for a 2.5" open end puck?
 
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