MUSA Wooden Vape

After a LOT of driving between smoke shops, sifting through websites, and tinkering. I give you the MUSA that wanted to be a MicroDoser with & without a Dynavap, An Elbow Packer, and now. A MUSA Funtionally identical to an EVO in everyway (except eith an external heat source & nail slot) and I'm thinking with a similar Linear M/M 19/19 it might be able to hold a VapeXNail depending on their length.





Edit: if someone could teach me how to embed a video on here with a phone I can show you a rip with a H.U.T. of loading an ELB that looks like a straight EVO hit thru a Hydratube of any kind. I'm passing out writing this. I'll talk to you guys later. This is a game changer.

Adapter is Grav Labs 19/19 Female to Female adapter $14.99

A Lamart.ch TUBO Adapter and I'm really not sure how much I paid cause during his 2yr anniversary sale I basically bought one of everything at half off. Can't be that much but the Dimentions are perfect.

Has anyone else had this issue when removing their power plug?



Mine did have a rather tight fit but when I tried to twist it back in the grooves were stripped and all it did was twist the wires a little.

My god what a terrible time to lose the daily driver...dont click if you're squeamish https://postimg.cc/bSjxh738

My pain Killer is gone...

I am starting to do some research for a log or plug in in general. But mid term because I spent too much on vapes this past 6 months. I really like what I read here, the evo type efficiency, the halogen and full glass airpath, the looks and I'm in Europe. I like 2 features of the WS also and it's not clear for me if there are ways to have them on the musa:
- micro dosing like 0.05-0.07 and
- the use of vapcaps as stems
Can you guys help me see clearer on this?

Just heard about this, Very interesting technology. I'm all for it. I have my eye on this one! Can I buy this in the U.S.?

@Daprezz I can almost say that with the GRAV Labs 19/19 linear adapter and a 14/18 long enough to fit the ELB (Ez Load Basket) the MUSA is literally a Halogen EVO with less of a HUGE blast of flavor and more of a gentle slope of amazing flavor for a sustained period of time since it's only radiant heat from the GRAV Labs adapter where as the EVO has a (pre?)proprietary heating Strip wrapping the Post allowing the basket to cook evenly on all sides at once. Along with the pure convection pulled thru (but the MUSA does that better if you ask me but I'm not sure if that's cause the wait time on the EVO feels like years now as opposed to flipping the switch on the MUSA and having everything reach a heat level adequate for Vaping in less than a minute. About 2:30 for the GRAV and all other glass.

The WS will microdose easier since all it requires I'd a little scrape with the Dynavap across the grinder plate and move that to the Post and you have vapor.

Thing about the traditional Log vape is you can eventually outdraw the heat (unless you have it at such a high level that if you don't power draw the heat is high enough to combust)

With the MUSA you are more likely to combust trying to outdraw it.

From tips & tricks from reading this page at one time or another I've had the MUSA be compatible with the chambers of a Dynavap, S&B Capsule (Liquid & Regular), Elbow Packing like a TUBO or Mi, & Finally the EVO upgrade. There is also aone or arizer products but I just liked the Elbow/Rimpacking just as much and felt it was very similar, The one that I can never come back from...and why I'm so depressed.

When using it with a Waterpipe the best way is the traditional way shown in the videos on @MUSA Vaporizer IG account or above.

Hope This helps and as frustrated as I am at the moment I can day that the MUSA is by far my favorite vaporizer and halogen tech is just such an interesting/amazing power source for vaporization.

Sorry man, I'd post a video but mine is currently at the mercy of my hands under repair from a little problem with my cords under the base =( But man do I suck at soldering.

Hey guys ok so this is the first picture I took with the Unit after opening The base to look.






Now before I go rooting around in here none of the wires are broken away from the connector or actually disconnected from where they're supposed to be from the first time opening this up yo look at how easy it would be to switch out the heat post.

It looks to me like over time those wires just kept being bent at that one point until it started to lose connectivity.

I could be completely and totally wrong but again all the wires are soldered in place, the only thing is out of order is the nest of wires that was once a positive or negitive copper connection.

@MUSA Vaporizer how would one go about fixing this because I can't really re shape some of these wires that feel like if I move them they'll just break like a string and since none of the wires are actually disconnected I can't roll it back into the shape it was in. (Or can I?)

I could really use some help from someone who knows their electronics.

i believe that is bird caging but idk

Grifo said:

i believe that is bird caging but idk

Click to expand...

Thanks @Grifo , but right now this is bumming me out. I'll deal with this when I can but right now this fuckin sucks to look at...

Edit: Ok so after careful planning I gently reformed the twisted pattern of copper as best as I could and can now see perfectly inside the backside of the plug.

The MUSA powers on but if you move it at all it loses power and then you have to push the socket back into the now stripped threaded hole where it used to fit until you let go and it naturally pushes itself out again and powers off...

@MUSA Vaporizer I think this needs a new copper wire and/or socket in which the power chord plugs into. I didnt do any soldering and just reforming the tangled wires, turned it on and it showed signs of life until it didn't again

FFS! It costs under a few cents to shrink wrap those leads!

Leaving bare wires straight out of a power connector that has an intrinsic tendency to twist (being round) is super sloppy. I'm not impressed to say the least...

KeroZen said:

FFS! It costs under a few cents to shrink wrap those leads!

Leaving bare wires straight out of a power connector that has an intrinsic tendency to twist (being round) is super sloppy. I'm not impressed to say the least...

Click to expand...

My first thoughts as well!!
Unprotected power wires are a HUGE NO- NO!!! No matter the voltage they will cause endless issues if they contact each other. A simple and cheap fix is required to update these to safer standards.

@MUSA Vaporizer
Any inputs for the forum on the finishing of the electrical parts? Or for the owner of a faulty unit???


@Azn2101
IMO I would remove the wires from the block and place new, protected wires in their place. Any contact between the wires you have now, will give you on/off function due to it shirting out...
A simple and quick but mostly a much safer vaporizer!

There is no possibility for the wires to connect with each other. You can't see that on this pictures(the picture shows the wires which got twisted...) But I can understand the concern! I have to say that I havtn thought about it because it's not needed in generally.

And btw in generally , the power supply has a safety function for shortcuts in the circuit. And with 12 V there is no danger anyways.

But for sure I will insulate the wires in the future!

Azn2101 said:

Hey guys ok so this is the first picture I took with the Unit after opening The base to look.






Now before I go rooting around in here none of the wires are broken away from the connector or actually disconnected from where they're supposed to be from the first time opening this up yo look at how easy it would be to switch out the heat post.

It looks to me like over time those wires just kept being bent at that one point until it started to lose connectivity.

I could be completely and totally wrong but again all the wires are soldered in place, the only thing is out of order is the nest of wires that was once a positive or negitive copper connection.

@MUSA Vaporizer how would one go about fixing this because I can't really re shape some of these wires that feel like if I move them they'll just break like a string and since none of the wires are actually disconnected I can't roll it back into the shape it was in. (Or can I?)

I could really use some help from someone who knows their electronics.

Click to expand...

Remove the old connector and add this all in one female connector. With a screw driver remove the two bare wires by loosening the two screws holding them in. Then feed the the red and black wires through until the female connector is in wood hole. Now tie a double knot in the wires near the hole, So the connector stays in place. Next cut the red and black wires, So they line up with the screws that held the bare old wires. Now connect the red and black wires to the two screws that the bare wires were connected. Hope this helps. https://www.amazon.com/43x2pcs-Conn...connector&qid=1559865656&s=electronics&sr=1-6

Vaporooni said:

Remove the old connector and add this all in one female connector. With a screw driver remove the two bare wires by loosening the two screws holding them in. Then feed the the red and black wires through until the female connector is in wood hole. Now tie a double knot in the wires near the hole, So the connector stays in place. Next cut the red and black wires, So they line up with the screws that held the bare old wires. Now connect the red and black wires to the two screws that the bare wires were connected. Hope this helps. https://www.amazon.com/43x2pcs-Conn...connector&qid=1559865656&s=electronics&sr=1-6

Click to expand...

I won't suggest this^^

He needs to make sure, that the wires are in place and not shortcutted.
If the unit is running now, just add good glue from the inner side of the hole on the connectors back. Now let it dry for 12 hours. This part isn't part of the airflow, don't worry!

MUSA Vaporizer said:

I won't suggest this^^

He needs to make sure, that the wires are in place and not shortcutted.
If the unit is running now, just add good glue from the inner side of the hole on the connectors back. Now let it dry for 12 hours. This part isn't part of the airflow, don't worry!

Click to expand...

Sorry about that, I forgot about the short cut. Stick with the Manufacture's installation. Better safe than sorry. The wires are bare for a reason, This way your not breathing plastic installation while it heats up.

Vaporooni said:

Sorry about that, I forgot about the short cut. Stick with the Manufacture's installation. Better safe than sorry. The wires are bare for a reason, This way your not breathing plastic installation while it heats up.

Click to expand...

High quality silicone covered wires are the answer!
Should have been a standard since there is always the possibility that the connector may move and short out the wires, exactly what is happening.
With sheathed wires, this will never happen.

Simple and easy to correct for all future models!
I hope that @MUSA Vaporizer had already implemented this.

lazylathe said:

High quality silicone covered wires are the answer!
Should have been a standard since there is always the possibility that the connector may move and short out the wires, exactly what is happening.
With sheathed wires, this will never happen.

Simple and easy to correct for all future models!
I hope that @MUSA Vaporizer had already implemented this.

Click to expand...

There are bare copper wires attached to bare metal rods going up the glass to the halogen bulb. Silicone in the glass heat path is not a good idea. The taste of heated silicone will be present. If the jack is tight, The wires will never twist.

Vaporooni said:

If the jack is tight, The wires will never twist.

Click to expand...

True. The primary cause of @Azn2101 's grief was not shorting wires. An over-tight jack put more stress on the wooden thread than it could bear. The thread stripped and the connector came out with the jack.
Only when Azn tried to screw it back in did the circuit short (and the bird caging occur, which in turn compounded the problem).
Of themselves, bare wires in a log are fine so long as the build spec does not forsee them ever coming into
contact with each other during routine use of the unit. Yes, coated wire would have prevented that short but repairs would still have been required and fortunately, it's a fairly minor job.

The culprits here are the tight jack and the failed thread.

brainiac said:

True. The primary cause of @Azn2101 's grief was not shorting wires. An over-tight jack put more stress on the wooden thread than it could bear. The thread stripped and the connector came out with the jack.
Only when Azn tried to screw it back in did the circuit short (and the bird caging occur, which in turn compounded the problem).
Of themselves, bare wires in a log are fine so long as the build spec does not forsee them ever coming into
contact with each other during routine use of the unit. Yes, coated wire would have prevented that short but repairs would still have been required and fortunately, it's a fairly minor job.

The culprits here are the tight jack and the failed thread.

Click to expand...

Yes, Glad to see that it can be fixed with some common knowledge.

Vaporooni said:

Yes, Glad to see that it can be fixed with some common knowledge.

Click to expand...

As mentioned the wires ARE NOT IN THE AIRPATH....so silicone would NOT offgas...
All possible areas of failure should be protected and the user should be 100% safe using the device.

True the threads failed as they were obviously not done correctly and caused the bare wires to touch.
Other logs use this connector with AMAZING success...

Sad to see this

lazylathe said:

As mentioned the wires ARE NOT IN THE AIRPATH....so silicone would NOT offgas...
All possible areas of failure should be protected and the user should be 100% safe using the device.

Click to expand...

The user is 100% safe. Otherwise I wouldn't sell this product. A shortcut is no possible failure.

Please stop judging about something you never had in your own hands.

Your reaction is unfair and I can feel some unfounded aggression behind your words.

Don't let me suffer because you had no good day.

Thanks.

MUSA Vaporizer said:

The user is 100% safe. Otherwise I wouldn't sell this product. A shortcut is no possible failure.

Please stop judging about something you never had in your own hands.

Your reaction is unfair and I can feel some unfounded aggression behind your words.

Don't let me suffer because you had no good day.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

I had a great day, thank you!
This is the first known failure if a Musa vape and in my opinion this needs to be rectified.
If there is a slight possibility of a failure of a part, all effort must be made to protect the user. To my knowledge, this was not done due to the unprotected wires coming from the connector.

I have not said anything unfair to you or about your product.
If this was a "real world" product it would not have left the seeing stages without the required corrections.

I do not need the product in my hands to know how it works, the pictures are proof enough if a possible issue that needs to be looked at.

So far you have not said you would look into the issue and see what modifications can be made to prevent any future issues like this arising.

I would have handled this differently but then again it's not my design and a lot of people have know seen how it is assembled and may veer away from it due to this possible issue.

No hard feelings at all! I let you know about this forum from the start and invited you to join us.
Seems you do not like people to ask questions about your work...

EDIT:
Going to call @Stu and @pakalolo to have a visit to this thread. Remember back in the day when even the E-Nano was critiqued by the forum before it was released as safe to use? Lots of input from the forum on safety etc...
What are your thoughts on the bare wires used to transfer power in this vape?
As well as the manufacturers replies?

This has been waiting here for days because I don't like what it means but it's the facts...

I appreciate everyone's help but have to say that this entire process (the assessment & "repair instructions" given by @MUSA Vaporizer ) has been anything but helpful...

Firstly Since I didn't break any rules I can't have a mod take down your photos, but if you didn't already notice there's an entire thread made by one of the first, if not the first person you had tested/made a MUSA for. And while it doesn't show a picture, if you take the time to read the responses and thread itself, he breaks down almost every aspect of your vaporizer. So guilt tripping me or whatever you meant by saying that in your message about posting pictures was not the way to go Tobias...

I've had more people message me back saying they're getting no response from you wondering how can they order a MUSA? So how could you expect me to not look to the community, made for things like this, for help??

You said MONTHS ago you'd send the stems that are posted on this threads Front page...The ones that accommodate an ELB inside the Stem like an EVO and to be honest that's why I bought your product. To be a Halogen-like EVO but you were cool enough to make up for the possible "Missing In Transit" MUSA so when it arrived and it wasn't like the original pictures (since you have no dry usage videos) I figured what the hell, I'll make it work. Which it almost does with the GRAV Mod but without the Posts I'll never know...

Because you never made any mention that you made a change to invert the ELB and make the Dry Stem different, like I said I expected something else. On here and on your IG, all you mentioned was that you shortened the post, not change it's ID so that it will no longer fit the ELB. So basically your stock dry Stem is a 50/50 air to vapor ratio from the huge gap between it and the post from the Stem resting on the ELB that is sitting on top of the post upside down, makes it almost useless without some form of mod like the 19/19 F/F GRAV adapter to cut off the unheated air flowing straight onto the material.

You asked me basically not to bother you and you'd send those posts and here I am 3 months later with no posts... PayPal at the ready with funds.

Since this is a problem that can be fixed by almost anyone worth their salt in electrical knowledge I'm just gonna back away from this thread and hope you improve on your Customer Service and product but I thought you'd show more appreciation to someone who was honest enough to tell you when he got his MUSA (when you were ready to send another new one that or the next day if I hadnt recieved mine)...a month later...with no tracking # (that it was supposed to come with) and you didn't even wait to ask if I wanted the option for trackable shipping. You just sent it...days after you said you would because you didn't want to wait in a long line? Come on man.

I get that this is your "Hobby" but once you start selling them you choose to make it a business and you should treat it like one and not blow off people the way you do.

This was an unnecessary situation and if the best you are willing to do is give vague advice to people that have no background in this type of thing than maybe working out a manual would be a good idea along with what @lazylathe said regarding the wires and adding some form of adhesive to the socket area would have no interference and would prevent events like this in the future along with wire coatings...

This sucks because I don't like confrontation but I want to support this product but why would I want to when I you tried to make me feel as if I did something wrong. It would be helpful to know that you don't apply any adhesive. Which you seemed to know when stating that it's the MUSA's 1 disadvantage. I see more than 1 but I'm not here to argue semantics.

All I can say is I feel mistreated as a customer and with ample reason if you would like to allow permission for PM's to be posted to show

I'll still have the funds ready for those posts...when/if you get that chance to get to that post office.

Edit: Spelling

i offered you help via skype video @Azn2101 , i offered you also a detailed pictured manual to repair it. but you didnt want it.
now you tell me i didnt give you enough support? we already have about 20 sites private messages where i answered all your questions and thoughts.

there are many other wrong things in your posting, but i really dont feel to justify myself here.

all i can say is that i feel mistreated as a manufacturer AND as a human. you guys are way to emotional at this point. if you like to destroy my buisness, go ahaid.

this discussion isnt based on facts.

i really dont need this negative energy in my life, which is created in this thread, right now. im out here.

Then let's put up the PM's that show that "Support" and let the community decide.

Put either way you don't treat customers this way...

Mistreated? Anyone who wants to see his "Mistreatment" can ask me for our PM's privately and they are in no way favorable to you...

Are you going to ignore the blame you tried to place on me? The mods know you were pissy because I asked 2 times to take it down cause you "wish I hadn't so people wouldn't steal your design"

Are you going to deny basiclly telling me to piss off for 3 months and still haven't recieved the items?

Are you going to deny being lazy and choosing not to wait in line cause "there were like 100 people there"

All of this is in the PM's...not to mention some of the Emails that further prove the situation in my defense that you were not helpful...

Yes you offered Skype but where are you again and what's that language your not fully proficient in? That's right...English. So how did you picture that working out? Hand gestures? Cause the same foes for me about knowing German...

I wish I could say take care but I don't wish you anything...positive or negitive.

Thank God your device is serviceable by anyone who has electrical knowledge.

Why don't you go check out the DIY vape that is based on your layout made by your tester. Your idea is no huge quantum leap to a Genius device...it's the lack of so many parts that make it good...and how long do you think it would it take a good engineer with the intent to steal and your device in his hands...not long as I count less than 10 maybe 15 individual pieces

@MUSA Vaporizer Then show/proove your "Mistreatment" because there's enough on my end to cover multiple angles of bad business practices...

I'm willing to invite people to the convo we have open and again it does not support your claims to being "mistreated"

Just squash it and let the PM's be seen. Unless I'm wrong neither of us can delete the messages so there's no hiding & you can show everyone how badly I mistreated you...

In case you're having trouble finding it. Here's the title for the thread where it is broken down:

Da Cork Bomber' - Make Shift Homemade Log Vape

Well said @Azn2101 !!

It really is sad to see it come to this and conflict on an open forum is never an easy thing.
This could have all been avoided had the manufacturer listened to you that you are not comfortable in the repairs, an immediate request for you to ship the item back to him for repairs should have been made.

I bought at @Ed's TnT Woodscents that arrived with the stem loose. I emailed Ed and he asked that I ship it back to him for repair ASAP. I paid shipping one way and Ed paid it back and added some extra goodies for free.
I had the exact same service from @ACE OF VAPE when my E-Nano had an issue. Send it in for repair.

This is the ONLY option to use to facilitate an efficient repair to the device and possible modification to an upgraded system.

I do hope @MUSA Vaporizer comes back to support all his End Users with vapes that they have bought from him. You have a great vape that people love!
A few tiny tweaks to make it even better and longer lasting seems like an excellent idea.