Cheap High Quality Bubbler

MasonJar

MasonJar

Well-Known Member
LesPlenty said:
The mouthpiece on that FC-710 looks thin enough to slice you, I also noted @MasonJar D020-d has the latest style thinner mouthpiece as well. My old d020-d had a nice fat mouthpiece end...not anymore. I would share my picture showing the difference but that is too hard...we need an UPLOAD FILE button ffs it's nearly 2020:cuss:
Click to expand...

Now that you mentioned it the mouthpiece on the FC-710 does look thin especially in comparison to the others in the pic. However it appears to be the same thickness as the one advertised on PopularGlass (stevenlmz79):

image.png


Speaking of mouthpieces, I do prefer using the style used on the 8" CCG Straight Fab and 7.4" Oil Rig in the pic compared to the flared, thinner mouthpieces on the D020-D, D020, and FC-710.
 
MasonJar

MasonJar

Well-Known Member
Moses Baca said:
@MasonJar, if you prefer the other style mouthpiece, why'd you go with the FC-710 instead of the RattleCan? Price? The RattleCan appeals more to me but it seems the FC-710 gets recommended more often. Any RattleCan users wishing they'd gone with the FC-710 instead?
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The primary reason was the price of the FC-710 from Ebizcn... Less than half the price of the rattle can. Second reason was based on what I have read such as this post on r/chinaglass and also elsewhere.

I really think you can't go wrong with either of them... The Rattle Can does look like it is built like a tank... Kind of similar to my 7.4" Oil Rig which has the thickest glass of all my pieces.
 
Summer

Summer

Long Island, NY
Tough call. I like the newer version better aesthetically & the base & mp are thicker glass, but I like the older one because of the height & angle of the spout. Seems it would be more comfortable to lean over, so I'd choose the older one based solely on ergonomics. But, frankly, I'd choose another rig that had all the above attributes.
 
Moses Baca

Moses Baca

Colorado State Reformatory #8755
Summer said:
Tough call. I like the newer version better aesthetically & the base & mp are thicker glass, but I like the older one because of the height & angle of the spout. Seems it would be more comfortable to lean over, so I'd choose the older one based solely on ergonomics. But, frankly, I'd choose another rig that had all the above attributes.
Click to expand...

I agree on all points. Durability is big for me (+1 RC) but the mouthpiece height looks better on the FC-710.

Anything specific? The diffusion pumps get great reviews, I like the idea, but I'm definitely open to suggestions. Thanks!
 
arb

arb

Semi shaved ape
I have a wide variety of sizes and styles of pieces and they all work differently.
I have found I enjoy using them all for different reasons with different vapes and all can and have been my"favorite" often on the same day.
Gas is worse than vas in many ways all it takes is one.
 
LesPlenty

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
My Rattle Can is still my favorite, I just got my 12" straight fab today and it is nice but a bit restrictive compared to my RC.
I dropped mt RC from about 3 feet onto concrete and it broke a chunk off the base but was still usable., I doubt the 710 would have made it.
I purchased another RC but find I am still using the broken one (I ground off the sharp edges).
The FC Rattle Can is better to use sitting back in a chair where the 710 would be better to 'lean over' on a coffee table or similar, the same as my new Straight Fab, I will use this standing at my workbench/bar.:tup:
 
Madri-Gal

Madri-Gal

Child Of The Revolution
tepictoton said:
The rattle can has one very big setback to me personaly: it puts the nail very close to your face...

Thats why I went back to the Fc-710 ...
Click to expand...
That's a good point, @tepictoton. I always tie my hair back to vape. I'm afraid it will swing forward and catch fire. I use a drop down or other adapter to move the nail further out if I can. It does seem some rattle cans do put a nail close to the face, and I don't care for it when that is the case.
 
arb

arb

Semi shaved ape
DSC-0472.jpg

I have never done a dab per se.............but the quartz dabber doohickey should be here soonish and I am going to try one to see if I like it.
I wasn't sure how big the bowl is so I made a lil extra.
:razz:
 
virtualpurple

virtualpurple

Well-Known Member
Guys I have a few questions that might be silly but I dwell on glass purchases.

1. Does the size of a bubbler can/base play a big role in draw restriction or is percolator design more responsible?

2. In a build-a-bong style, can mouthpieces or other middle-
Piece sections with sections make a huge impact on the experience as well? Like I see middle-sections or necks with pinches or other types of percolators.

For example, I’d love to purchase a beaker or a globe base (like the orbiter or the sneaky Pete bubbler), but for ease of cleaning and just my love of tinkering with configurations I want to be able to swap out different perks and to swap between whip and mouthpiece.

I also like the idea of having both necks be the same size so that I could have the perc inserted on the top or kinda sideways like a standard beaker bong. I’ll have moods where I’m more keen to bring the bubbler over to me and hold it while I rip, while other times I just want to keep it on a table (like when I’m having people over and we’re circled at the kitchen table or if I’m on the couch) and just draw off a whip.

Trying to find a base to start with has been a challenge because most of the build-a-bong styles I’ve seen are not quite as customizable. They usually have 1 neck larger than the other, which kinda forces your build a little.

Anyone here fiddled with configurations and have some tips or resources to pass along?

I’d love to hire a glass artist to design a base that would these sorts of needs but I can’t seem to enter in the right combo of words to do so. If anyone has an artist they’ve worked with before that they can suggest I am all ears!

Thanks guys.
 
pxl_jockey

pxl_jockey

Just a dude
virtualpurple said:
Guys I have a few questions that might be silly but I dwell on glass purchases.

1. Does the size of a bubbler can/base play a big role in draw restriction or is percolator design more responsible?

2. In a build-a-bong style, can mouthpieces or other middle-
Piece sections with sections make a huge impact on the experience as well? Like I see middle-sections or necks with pinches or other types of percolators.

For example, I’d love to purchase a beaker or a globe base (like the orbiter or the sneaky Pete bubbler), but for ease of cleaning and just my love of tinkering with configurations I want to be able to swap out different perks and to swap between whip and mouthpiece.

I also like the idea of having both necks be the same size so that I could have the perc inserted on the top or kinda sideways like a standard beaker bong. I’ll have moods where I’m more keen to bring the bubbler over to me and hold it while I rip, while other times I just want to keep it on a table (like when I’m having people over and we’re circled at the kitchen table or if I’m on the couch) and just draw off a whip.

Trying to find a base to start with has been a challenge because most of the build-a-bong styles I’ve seen are not quite as customizable. They usually have 1 neck larger than the other, which kinda forces your build a little.

Anyone here fiddled with configurations and have some tips or resources to pass along?

I’d love to hire a glass artist to design a base that would these sorts of needs but I can’t seem to enter in the right combo of words to do so. If anyone has an artist they’ve worked with before that they can suggest I am all ears!

Thanks guys.
Click to expand...
Any laboratory glass house will have a 2-neck boiling flask in flat- or round-bottomed. They’re available in different sized joints and volume. So a SP or orbiter size flask would be 250ml with two 14.4mm necks.

Hey @virtualpurple one thing I forgot about is the majority of downstems I see out there* are the 18(or 19)/14mm type. This is why most of the modular/transformer/FC-MODstyle bubblers will have an 18mm joint for the downstem & a 14mm for the MP. The EHLE AKW** has two 18mm joints so the downstem can go in either joint and the 14mm MP uses an 18/14 low-pro reducer. So there’s something else to consider when thinking about what you want.

* I have been looking at & (sadly) acquiring downstems a lot lately but I’m no expert. I have seen some that are 14/10mm & 29/18mm, but not that often and not in a variety of lengths ime.

** the AKW (or ACW in English) is a modestly priced modular bubbler made exclusively by Ehle for the Berlin vaporiser shop, Verdampftnochmal and here’s a link for the bubbler in English.
 
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LesPlenty

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
tepictoton said:
it puts the nail very close to your face.
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I would use another rig for dabbing, the Rattle Can is very free-flowing so is great with dry herb vapes, my main thing. I use my SheldoBlack knock off or 12"straight Fab for dabbing.:tup:

virtualpurple said:
1. Does the size of a bubbler can/base play a big role in draw restriction or is percolator design more responsible?
Click to expand...
I believe it is more Perc design.:tup:

virtualpurple said:
. In a build-a-bong style, can mouthpieces or other middle-
Piece sections with sections make a huge impact on the experience as well?
Click to expand...
It can, the tyre perc in my FC-Mod is a lot less restictive than the Matrix perc and I like to swap mouthpieces for a different experience.
 
Ramahs

Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
arb said:
I have found I enjoy using them all for different reasons with different vapes and all can and have been my"favorite" often on the same day.
Click to expand...

Variety is important to me as well. I like all my vaporizers for different reasons. And I often use two or three of them on the same day. Glass is the same way.

arb said:
DSC-0472.jpg

I have never done a dab per se.............but the quartz dabber doohickey should be here soonish and I am going to try one to see if I like it.
I wasn't sure how big the bowl is so I made a lil extra.
:razz:
Click to expand...

Yup, I came :smug:
 
Skunkport

Skunkport

Well-Known Member
Got a couple of new pieces after trawling through here a bit, FC-710 and the Sheldon Black Sixshooter copy.

Do not like the 710 with the Flowerpot, nail is too close to my forehead and while I've seen dropdowns, I don't like the idea with a hunk of metal sat on it, even mostly titanium. Too little diffusion too for me, really hit my throat doing bowls.
Using it right now with a vapcap on a ddave wand though and it's great flavor and work's perfectly imo with this.

6-shooter works perfectly with the FP, smooths it out just enough I can fill the bowl and clear it in 2 hits to medium brown without coughing, not sure how much is in a FP bowl but it's quite a bit.

Another 2 nice bits, thanks for the reviews :D
 
ataxian

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
LesPlenty said:
My Rattle Can is still my favorite, I just got my 12" straight fab today and it is nice but a bit restrictive compared to my RC.
I dropped mt RC from about 3 feet onto concrete and it broke a chunk off the base but was still usable., I doubt the 710 would have made it.
I purchased another RC but find I am still using the broken one (I ground off the sharp edges).
The FC Rattle Can is better to use sitting back in a chair where the 710 would be better to 'lean over' on a coffee table or similar, the same as my new Straight Fab, I will use this standing at my workbench/bar.:tup:
Click to expand...
I need 2 own the FC RATTLE CAN 2 B CIVILIZED
2 much GRANDDADDY PURPLE ROSIN (sorry can’t feel my face?)
 
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