VaporGenie

I've owned the Wooden classic version and once a friend combusted with it ,and i have to gift it away... There is simply no way getting that smell off the wooden vaporpath,kind-a felt like the mflb,which is doomed to have spoiled taste overtime because there are areas that collect residue and herb dust and are inaccessable to cleaning,and even if they were,oils just soak into the wood,and smells along with it.
So if you plan on getting a VG,i suggest getting either a metal or glass version ).
Also i think it is about time This company comes with a torch which is safe enough to use with their vaporizer...
Cause thinking that jet stream is just water vapor and CO2 is a joke. First of all,butane cans,even zero impurity ones,have grease lubrication inside the can to protect the metal from corrosion (i've been told this by a friend who is in the perfume industry,that is common with most canned solvents).
Butane is known to dissolve oils (so expect the occassional grease ball along with it),also some of the torches have plastic tanks ,most of them will probably leech into the butane..
Then you have a a brass pressure valve ,followed by PVC/RUBBER tubing,which is attached directly to the hot nozzle. The nozzle itself is made of brass which often contains lead for the ease of machining.. Also you got the piezowire and its insulation lying into the airpath... There are some quality torches which have porcelain guard around it,so less heat is transfered to the metal exterior/heater cover,which is often from plated or anodized metals and is probably another offgass source...
So what i would like too see is a torch with a glass tank,stainless nozzle,metal connection between the valve and the nozzle,like in oxy torches,it should also have a porcelain guard and electric ignition mechanism,like those usb lighters,that make arc between two solid metal pieces.
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Edited:
Forgot to add that i've opened a few tanks of medium size torches like the BS-400 and literally SPONGE BOB lives inside ... I dunno what is the function of it,but it is there...probably as some kind of filter for those greaseballs.

Ramahs said:

Do y’all use a butane torch with these?
I assume that a “soft flame”, like a Bic type lighter would be unhealthy because it doesn’t properly burn all the fuel off (hence the soot those flames leave on surfaces)

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In the first pass, there's nothing really unhealthy with 'candle flame' lighters WRT the gas they burn. Carbon (soot) only forms when the temperature drops or you run out of Oxygen locally, same as a candle will soot up glass if it touches? Not the best thing to breathe in, but here it collects in the heat exchanger and never really makes it to the load (where it's sure to be trapped). Otherwise, it's the same water vapor and CO2 we deal with every day.

Torch types are easier to control, and therefore recommended, but both create the same useful heat with the same volume of gas since the to reactions involved are the same. The torch is just more concentrated.

However, AVOID ALL 'BIC TYPE' LIGHTERS! Those with 'flints' not sparks. The metal used is toxic so the lighter 'rains' toxic particles in use. Either get a spark lit lighter or use a candle or similar to light it not the spark wheel. Some guys 'light it over there, use it over here' but they're fooling themselves this eliminates the risk. Be safe?

Abysmal Vapor said:

Cause thinking that jet stream is just water vapor and CO2 is a joke. First of all,butane cans,even zero impurity ones,have grease lubrication inside the can to protect the metal from corrosion (i've been told this by a friend who is in the perfume industry,that is common with most canned solvents).
Butane is know to dissolve oils ,also some of the torches have plastic tanks ,most of them will probably leech into the butane..

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You think so (or your friend does.....)? Ever spray some on a mirror, let the 'high purity' gas evaporate and find any evidence of this? I have, and didn't........ I call BS on this one.

I think it's good to be cautious, but we should 'keep it real'. IMO folks should not avoid spark type lighters using good quality fuel for the above reasons.

As always, individuals should make such decisions for themselves, but those should be informed decisions, and questionable 'friend of a friend' information needs further consideration if it 'doesn't fit'.....

OF

@OF Try blasting a whole can in a glass pan.. Then you will get noticeable residue.I am well aware of the mirror test and i think that it only catches really crappy butane/propane .
I think there are plenty of very hot things than can offgass in a torch like the wire of the piezo.I am trying to keep it real and not close my eyes for the obvious hazards in this style of vaping. I meant ARC lighter not spark lighters,charged by USB in place of the piezo wire.. ,i dunno if you are still refering to my post though.
I am still up for a healthy lighter if VG ever decides on making one,i am in for a try,until then it is hard pass on all type of vaporizers that involve inhalating the jetstream . I am not trying to scare anyone ,i just think there are better/safer ways of getting vapor.

used once a Bic lighter... got my filter disc blackened after a few poor hits... since, I only use a torch for the best hits, I have to be patient until I can get a VG session again except if I can find where I put my Classic maple VG!

PPN said:

used once a Bic lighter... got my filter disc blackened after a few poor hits... since, I only use a torch for the best hits, I have to be patient until I can get a VG session again except if I can find where I put my Classic maple VG!

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Yes, since 'candle flame' type lighters burn at lower temperatures, cooling the flame by contacting cooler surfaces stops the second (less energetic) reaction, the one combining carbon left over after all the hydrogen has 'been burned'. Less CO2 is produced and "lampblack" (the technical name for such fine soot) is deposited.

It can be cleaned (burned off), but you need to get the entire heat exchanger very hot. There's a procedure on the VG page as I recall. You remove and suspend on wires your exchanger in the nozzle of a 'shop vacuum' cleaner. This provides lots and lots of Oxygen. You then torch the exchanger until it glows. It's Silicon Carbide plates fused together, one of the very toughest materials known to man. Solid Engineering by VG for sure.

As to the missing VG, I guess we could come help you search?

OF

Yes, I thought my heat exchanger was dead but somebody here (you?) told me to torch it until it glows to get rid of this soot, I'm still using the same filter sic disc... in the lost VG.

Come on @OF ! If you are ready to takle a plane to France you will be welcome at my home! Although the search might be long since I was used to vape with my VG in the garden where is growing potatoes, tomatoes, weed and lot of others vegetables and fruits, and in the forest which is up of 15ha all around the house. But maybe it's only at home in a forgotten bag or under a bed... I don't know... yes I'm not an OCD as you can see...

I don't have my VG handy so I am hoping someone can check for me... a ruler check will do. What size pipe thread will the VG top screw into? iirc it looked like a 5/8" or 1/2". Any help is greatly appreciated! For background purposes, looking to mate a ss elbow to the top portion for a diy project. Thanks

Hi, I received my Vaporgenie Glass Bat and I can say it's an amazing vape!
Ordered the April 18 and received the April 24, I'm across the pond (France)... can't believe how fast it was shipped to me!

Got vapor at the first hit without issue at all, since you can see the vapor forms it's easier to use than the classic Vaporgenie. I like the side loading sliding door, open, dump a load and close. I stir once per bowl but most of the time a shake or two is enough.

A keeper and a nice addition to my line up. Thank you VaporGenie.

ps: sorry @Obsessed 2 but since I can't find my VG classic I can't help you at all...

PPN said:

ps: sorry @Obsessed 2 but since I can't find my VG classic I can't help you at all...

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No worries!

For anyone interested, turns out 3/8” works perfectly!

Wow that Glass bat hits like a truck!

It's bigger than I thought but not so much.... the size of a big pen in average. The glass is very thick and seems solid enough to survive to a drop or two... maybe cause it's glass after all!

The side loading window is very nice idea but can remains to be hot after some hits, not a big deal though.

It seems I can get vapor to form faster with the glass bat than I remenber when I use the classic wooden VG. On the beginning I was concerned about to have to use the torch directly to my face, not easy with some lighters (angled lighters are better here) but not dangerous since the device is bigger than I thought.

With water filtration this is a heavy hitter, it fits directly in a 18mm female joint but I added a tiny piece of silicone tubing to avoid tiny air leaks and for a sturdier fit. Be careful! combustion can happen if you draw too hard or if you put the lighter to close, I avoided any combustion for now but think it might happen easily without enough care.

Tried a concentrate pad in with success.

Remenber to check the side loading window is well closed cause if there is a tiny gap it's enough to get the things not working like expected.

A Totally Under-rated Vape! There is a few mentions here and here in the thread from @grokit and some others members but not a lot. Trully glad to get it in my arsenal.

A great little vape!

Woaw! That Glass bat is an heavy, heavy hitter... it's not anymore the honeymoon but still medicate me harder than a lot of vapes. Although I have to go carefully with the torch cause I can scorch the load easily if I don't pay enough attention when I want a big hit, in practice it's better to put the lighter far and be more patient.

Initial loading tek is important, try to compress it slightly in a sort of regular puck covering all the surface of the screen, try to keep the load far of the filter disc. Loose load not well packed will lead to scorching and maybe combustion. You have to repeat that until your herb don't stick together cause, when it's the case, you can only shake a bit between hits (although, at this point, there is not a lot of resin to vape anymore).

Still not found my Classic VG, it misses to me so much!

@PPN shaking works but you'll end up with herb sticking to the ceramic filter. . . I know it's not as big a deal as it was when you couldn't remove the filter to torch it clean but you'll find the taste and odor taking a turn for the worst if you keep shaking instead of stirring between hits.

A question about the quality of the gas which is recommended to use : is it a must for using high quality butane refined? or cheap butane also safe for consuming

GoldenBud said:

A question about the quality of the gas which is recommended to use : is it a must for using high quality butane refined? or cheap butane also safe for consuming

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AFAIK it's fine. The concerns about purity have to do with the lighter, or in the case of Iolite the device. For sure you can't control the quality of gas in disposable lighters.

I suppose there might be some really nasty gas somewhere, but typical cans sold should be fine IMO.

OF

GoldenBud said:

A question about the quality of the gas which is recommended to use : is it a must for using high quality butane refined? or cheap butane also safe for consuming

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This isn't a vapcap where you're utilizing only the heat of the flame. This is similar to a sticky brick where you will be inhaling the heat source, so the quality of your butane is important.

OF said:

AFAIK it's fine. The concerns about purity have to do with the lighter, or in the case of Iolite the device. For sure you can't control the quality of gas in disposable lighters.

I suppose there might be some really nasty gas somewhere, but typical cans sold should be fine IMO.

OF

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I respectfully disagree. Low quality or less filtered butane will have machining oils and by-products other higher quality butanes will not. Personally, 10x filtered or more is what I use for my VG & SB Jr.

Also, the flint on disposable lighters is toxic and the burning of this material should not be inhaled.

Obsessed 2 said:

I respectfully disagree. Low quality or less filtered butane will have machining oils and by-products other higher quality butanes will not. Personally, 10x filtered or more is what I use for my VG & SB Jr.

Also, the flint on disposable lighters is toxic and the burning of this material should not be inhaled.

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Fine by me, of course, everyone gets an opinion? Can you demonstrate these 'machining oils and by-products'? They don't show up on MSDS sheets.....

And can you show that these mystery oils don't actually burn with everything else? That fire is mighty hot. Since this product is made by 'fractional distillation from crude oil for mass consumption as heating and cooking fuel for a large percentage of the world it's a popular source of further refinement. Other things besides the two types of Butane exist in it, from Ethane to Heptane for the most part, all of which should be safe to use?

If it's safe to use (the much less pure) commercial Propane (which has Butane added so it will work at lower temperatures) for cooking and heating your house I see no cause for such concerns in vaping with VG. Why should a relatively minor amount of much more pure fuel in your lighter be more dangerous than the much larger volume of such fuel burned inside the house where you're sure to breathe it in eventually?

And a minor quibble, the 'flint' in modern lighters is not burned by the lighter, it rapidly burns on it's own by the 'flash' of the spark. The health risk is the 'dust' that doesn't burn. But agreed, avoid them, but that's another issue. There are disposable spark type lighters out there past our ability to even question what's inside.

I also get that guys making BHO have their opinions. That too is a different matter (not that I know much about that stuff)?

OF

OF said:

Fine by me, of course, everyone gets an opinion? Can you demonstrate these 'machining oils and by-products'? They don't show up on MSDS sheets.....

And can you show that these mystery oils don't actually burn with everything else? That fire is mighty hot. Since this product is made by 'fractional distillation from crude oil for mass consumption as heating and cooking fuel for a large percentage of the world it's a popular source of further refinement. Other things besides the two types of Butane exist in it, from Ethane to Heptane for the most part, all of which should be safe to use?

If it's safe to use (the much less pure) commercial Propane (which has Butane added so it will work at lower temperatures) for cooking and heating your house I see no cause for such concerns in vaping with VG. Why should a relatively minor amount of much more pure fuel in your lighter be more dangerous than the much larger volume of such fuel burned inside the house where you're sure to breathe it in eventually?

And a minor quibble, the 'flint' in modern lighters is not burned by the lighter, it rapidly burns on it's own by the 'flash' of the spark. The health risk is the 'dust' that doesn't burn. But agreed, avoid them, but that's another issue. There are disposable spark type lighters out there past our ability to even question what's inside.

I also get that guys making BHO have their opinions. That too is a different matter (not that I know much about that stuff)?

OF

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No I cannot. But I also cannot prove complete combustion. We assume comlplete combustion occurs where only carbon dioxide water and heat are produced. But if there's incomplete combustion we are inhaling carbon monoxide water and heat. If I'm using a poor quality fuel I am increasing a risk factor. If I can eliminate any other risk factors from the possibility of incomplete combustion then I certainly will go out of my way to do so. I am not a light user so exposure limits apply. I get that we are exposed to more contaminants walking down the street. Shoot, I walked past a SEPTA bus and I'm probably over my lifetime exposure limit for benezene. My point is, we assume lots, but have other known facts. I simply choose to affect risk factors where I can.

I don't mess around with BHO but there's a tremendous amount that I've learned reading about it. You know, something I haven't tried is the mirror test on open flames. That may be an interesting experiment.

At any rate, I appreciate this discourse.

Obsessed 2 said:

No I cannot. But I also cannot prove complete combustion. We assume comlplete combustion occurs where only carbon dioxide water and heat are produced. But if there's incomplete combustion we are inhaling carbon monoxide water and heat. If I'm using a poor quality fuel I am increasing a risk factor. If I can eliminate any other risk factors from the possibility of incomplete combustion then I certainly will go out of my way to do so. I am not a light user so exposure limits apply. I get that we are exposed to more contaminants walking down the street. Shoot, I walked past a SEPTA bus and I'm probably over my lifetime exposure limit for benezene. My point is, we assume lots, but have other known facts. I simply choose to affect risk factors where I can.

I don't mess around with BHO but there's a tremendous amount that I've learned reading about it. You know, something I haven't tried is the mirror test on open flames. That may be an interesting experiment.

At any rate, I appreciate this discourse.

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Incomplete combustion occurs due to the lack of Oxygen, How can the gas be a factor? thanks

GoldenBud said:

Incomplete combustion occurs due to the lack of Oxygen, How can the gas be a factor? thanks

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Your right, on paper, incomplete combustion occurs when there's insufficient oxygen. But I haven't encountered any mention of the other inert ingredients found in poor quality butane, not even in the MSDS sheets. What is that oily residue one can feel when doing a mirror or plate test? Let's say this greasy residue is combusted. What are the by-products? Is it H20 or CO2? You'd need a gas chromatography analysis to pick up on those contaminants. So that is what I mean by we assume 100% combustion; and even if it were 100% with crappy fuel, is the exhaust 100% water & carbon dioxide?

Obsessed 2 said:

Your right, on paper, incomplete combustion occurs when there's insufficient oxygen. But I haven't encountered any mention of the other inert ingredients found in poor quality butane, not even in the MSDS sheets. What is that oily residue one can feel when doing a mirror or plate test? Let's say this greasy residue is combusted. What are the by-products? Is it H20 or CO2? You'd need a gas chromatography analysis to pick up on those contaminants. So that is what I mean by we assume 100% combustion; and even if it were 100% with crappy fuel, is the exhaust 100% water & carbon dioxide?

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Complete combustion always will produce H2O and CO2 because these are fully oxidized molecules.
If it's true and there's another gas within the cans and we do inhale it, i think it also can be delieved to our lungs without any chemical reaction (combustion/incomplete combustion is a chemical reaction) just by inhaling
the question is, if the can which cost 3$ contain anything else than Butane molecules? or just the 10$ refined one, intersting.

Interested in a VG, specifically a glass bat or glass Sherlock. Hoping someone with similar experience can chime in.

I love my SBrunt. It seems like the VG is similar in function. How about bowl size comparison, vapor production, flavor?

I own the Classic VG (yes my wife finally found it!) and the Glass Bat. I had the Daisy (Sticky bricks predecessor) by the past and I own a Dobby from dreamgreenvapes too.

It's always subjectives personnal preferences but the VG's get my favor, less stirs, less chances to scorch the load, smaller footprint. Maybe not so much vapor production than the Daisy did but the bowl size is smaller, but not a microdoser or a sipper (give a look at the @paytonpenn video's, he masters this vape very, very well).

Flavor is pretty similar and very good for me, try to find your sweetspot using flame length and distance to the heater screen (this ceramic screen IS the difference between this vapes, it act as a filter but help to avoid hotspots and scorching). In the VG's user guides it's mentionned you can use this vape with a bic lighter... this is not work and will make your ceramic filter full of soot, stick with a torch (one jet flame).

I like a lot the Classic VG to carry around to vape in the garden or while working/hiking in the forest/mountain, looks like Gandalf in the Middle Earth! The Glass bat is the one I use for water filtration since it fits directly in a 18mm joint, I like to use it dry too but you have to handle it carefully cause breakage but cause the load can stick to the ceramic filter and produce a bad taste (I'm thinking to add a stainless steel screen on the bottom of the ceramic filter to avoid that issue). It's better to use it like a Chillum to avoid that.
I know our friend @Vitolo loves his Glass sherlock VG too!

Has anyone noticed a smell in their bronze sherlock?

I didn't notice it right away, but there is a distinct odor coming from the bowl and especially the mouthpiece that I can only describe as rotten metal. I've combusted in it a couple times while learning, but it definitely smells nothing like combustion, and in fact the smell seems worse after an iso bath.

The flavor of my weed isn't exactly overpowered, but it's definitely colored, and getting whiffs of this smell while bringing the pipe to my mouth frankly just makes for an unpleasant experience compared to the clean flavor of my other vaporizers. It's so obvious to me that I can't believe I can't find it mentioned anywhere in this thread.

I have the coil as well which I use with a j-hook, and it has none of this smell, and I've certainly combusted in it more.

Dreams of a stainless steel sherlock...

My bronze tastes and smells almost the same as the glass bat to me, nothing off about it at all.

I got herb on the heatexchanger /filter stone thing in one of my old tops (shaking instead of stirring isn't a good idea) and it has a kind of nasty sour taste and smell when it gets hot.

JEMSKU said:

Has anyone noticed a smell in their bronze sherlock?

I didn't notice it right away, but there is a distinct odor coming from the bowl and especially the mouthpiece that I can only describe as rotten metal. I've combusted in it a couple times while learning, but it definitely smells nothing like combustion, and in fact the smell seems worse after an iso bath.

The flavor of my weed isn't exactly overpowered, but it's definitely colored, and getting whiffs of this smell while bringing the pipe to my mouth frankly just makes for an unpleasant experience compared to the clean flavor of my other vaporizers. It's so obvious to me that I can't believe I can't find it mentioned anywhere in this thread.

I have the coil as well which I use with a j-hook, and it has none of this smell, and I've certainly combusted in it more.

Dreams of a stainless steel sherlock...

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I wanted to come back and follow up on this post a bit.

I am loving my bronze sherlock. I definitely still notice a smell, but I don't find it particularly offensive at this time. I'm not sure if I have just got used to it, or maybe the bronze has just become more thoroughly 'seasoned'... There is definitely still a smell and flavor coloring, but I think I'd describe it as more 'earthy' as opposed to anything unpleasant. It's just part of the experience of the bronze sherlock now, which altogether I am very much still enjoying. Not that I wouldn't enjoy a sherlock made with a more neutral metal.

Always on the search for a better lighter though