Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

@mario I tested my shadow cap and had no problem getting big tasty clouds. I tended to have to wait a couple of extra second, but definitely had great results.

Is your shadow cap loose? Maybe a refit is in order? (Easy fix)

Hi all,

My shiny new oscilloscope is due here by Friday, so after thinking it over, I am going to "slow the line" for a couple of days to allow it to get here and give me an opportunity to identify and fix the MOSFET failure issue. The failure rate due to this issue is too damn high, and I believe it is a solvable problem. I want to solve it now, before I ship any more heaters.

I now have a good idea of both of the root cause and also how to fix it, but I need the scope to tell me exactly what's happening, and also if my fix solves the issue.

To Science - huzzah!

I currently have a mini-batch of ~20 heaters that are almost done, as well as a few repairs, and instead of shipping them immediately I'm going to hold onto them for a few more days, until I've had a chance to look at the heater with the new scope.

I expect to start shipping again on Monday, hopefully with a fix in place, or at least a much better understanding of the issue(s).

Thanks for your patience while I work on getting to the bottom of this issue.

Cheers,

mr_cfromcali said:

Hi all,

My shiny new oscilloscope is due here by Friday, so after thinking it over, I am going to "slow the line" for a couple of days to allow it to get here and give me an opportunity to identify and fix the MOSFET failure issue. The failure rate due to this issue is too damn high, and I believe it is a solvable problem. I want to solve it now, before I ship any more heaters.

I now have a good idea of both of the root cause and also how to fix it, but I need the scope to tell me exactly what's happening, and also if my fix solves the issue.

To Science - huzzah!

I currently have a mini-batch of ~20 heaters that are almost done, as well as a few repairs, and instead of shipping them immediately I'm going to hold onto them for a few more days, until I've had a chance to look at the heater with the new scope.

I expect to start shipping again on Monday, hopefully with a fix in place, or at least a much better understanding of the issue(s).

Thanks for your patience while I work on getting to the bottom of this issue.

Cheers,

Click to expand...

Thank you @mr_cfromcali ! While I go through a rollercoaster of emotions while waiting my turn, I empathize with you and how much frustration you are dealing with. Keep at it.

I am very much interested in learning more about your oscilloscopic investigation and results. Best of luck!

Obsessed 2 said:

Thank you @mr_cfromcali ! While I go through a rollercoaster of emotions while waiting my turn, I empathize with you and how much frustration you are dealing with. Keep at it.

I am very much interested in learning more about your oscilloscopic investigation and results. Best of luck!

Click to expand...

Well said , have been waiting my turn patiently wishing I'd ordered earlier , but am more confident after reading this thread that not only will I receive a quality product but the Cs is also top notch

Jill NYC said:

Is your shadow cap loose? Maybe a refit is in order? (Easy fix)

Click to expand...

It isn't loose, it just doesn't sit all the way down on the tip. I'm not sure what the issue is, I have to get in there and do more testing, but for the time being I'm not really using my shadow a lot. My Omni's outshine it by so much right now with the FD, that I just haven't cared enough to fiddle with the Shadow if it is going to cause me problems

Obsessed 2 said:

Thank you @mr_cfromcali ! While I go through a rollercoaster of emotions while waiting my turn, I empathize with you and how much frustration you are dealing with. Keep at it.

I am very much interested in learning more about your oscilloscopic investigation and results. Best of luck!

Click to expand...

Darr1 said:

Well said , have been waiting my turn patiently wishing I'd ordered earlier , but am more confident after reading this thread that not only will I receive a quality product but the Cs is also top notch

Click to expand...

Thanks for the support. In retrospect, I should have jumped on this issue harder in mid-February, when it first appeared, but hindsight is 20/20, etc. and I've learned a lot through my missteps and false starts.

I have done a fair amount of reading on this recently, as I realized a simple parts swap wasn't going to solve it. Electronics is a hobby for me (as I'm sure any EE browsing this thread quickly realizes, ), and my previous projects have mostly been tube (valve) amplifiers for guitars. Consequently, there's a lot I don't know about MOSFETs, which are anathema in the tube amplifier world. Others do know MOSFETs, though, and it turns out that MOSFET-killing voltage spikes are well understood phenomena, and there are some straightforward strategies to mitigate them. TIL.

But all of these solutions require a decent oscilloscope for diagnosis and confirmation, and my previous 'scope wasn't up to the task.

The latest update from UPS has the new one arriving tomorrow. I'll definitely give this thread an update as soon as I have some test results - could be Friday (Pacific time), or it may be later if I have trouble getting the 'scope set up.

I don't think this problem will be hard to spot once I can trace the energy path of the circuit on the screen. I'm expecting to see a BIG voltage spike when the tactile switch is released and the circuit opens, as the unspent inductive energy is rapidly converted into heat and electrical energy. I think that's where the damage occurs, and as I said, other people much smarter than me have already worked out proper ways of dealing with issues like these. I just need to see what's occurring in all of its noisy glory, so I can figure out which approach is the best to use to tame it.

That's what I know at the moment. More to come.

mr_cfromcali said:

Thanks for the support. In retrospect, I should have jumped on this issue harder in mid-February, when it first appeared, but hindsight is 20/20, etc. and I've learned a lot through my missteps and false starts.

I have done a fair amount of reading on this recently, as I realized a simple parts swap wasn't going to solve it. Electronics is a hobby for me (as I'm sure any EE browsing this thread quickly realizes, ), and my previous projects have mostly been tube (valve) amplifiers for guitars. Consequently, there's a lot I don't know about MOSFETs, which are anathema in the tube amplifier world. Others do know MOSFETs, though, and it turns out that MOSFET-killing voltage spikes are well understood phenomena, and there are some straightforward strategies to mitigate them. TIL.

But all of these solutions require a decent oscilloscope for diagnosis and confirmation, and my previous 'scope wasn't up to the task.

The latest update from UPS has the new one arriving tomorrow. I'll definitely give this thread an update as soon as I have some test results - could be Friday (Pacific time), or it may be later if I have trouble getting the 'scope set up.

I don't think this problem will be hard to spot once I can trace the energy path of the circuit on the screen. I'm expecting to see a BIG voltage spike when the tactile switch is released and the circuit opens, as the unspent inductive energy is rapidly converted into heat and electrical energy*. I think that's where the damage occurs, and as I said, other people much smarter than me have already worked out proper ways of dealing with issues like these. I just need to see what's occurring in all of its noisy glory, so I can figure out which approach is the best to use to tame it.

That's what I know at the moment. More to come.

Click to expand...

Glad mine is still working great but also glad to know I bought it from you in case there is a problem. I don’t think mine has a glass spacer between the switch and the pressure switch. Looks like a domed piece of plastic semi melted lol, could that be the reason it runs real hot with a ti tip(14mm coil), it goes in too deep? Or does it matter?

started@52 said:

Glad mine is still working great but also glad to know I bought it from you in case there is a problem. I don’t think mine has a glass spacer between the switch and the pressure switch. Looks like a domed piece of plastic semi melted lol, could that be the reason it runs real hot with a ti tip(14mm coil), it goes in too deep? Or does it matter?

Click to expand...

The switches are rated for 160°C, which is enough margin if you never miss a click. In the real world, extra heat protection is a good thing. You should probably add something before tragedy strikes. Send me a PM w/your mailing address and I'll put a pyrex button in the mail to you. They are supposedly good to 600°C. Or you can DIY with a small piece of silicone, a glass or wooden button, etc. A small, dab-sized ( ) bit of high temp RTV will hold whatever barrier you use to the top of the switch.

Of the FD users that have expressed a preference, most have preferred the tip to go deeper into the coil for more thorough heating.

I started out with no barrier on the switch.
I then went to a cap+button that was good and easy to retrofit, but added ~3mm to height of the button.
I am now gluing the buttons directly to the switches, and am satisfied that the resulting height and protection are the best of both worlds.

Hope that helps.

Watching the learning and execution curves in motion has been fascinating and inspiring; deeply impressed by the forward motion, and by the inclusion of the interest group throughout.

As a member of the Mother list (I’m pretty sure), I am confident that we are ALL going to be very happy with our outcomes.

Thanks, Mr. C, for everything

Are you having problems with the “14mm” or all sizes ???

odc57 said:

Are you having problems with the “14mm” or all sizes ???

Click to expand...

I would say that all sizes are subject to the issue, but the 14mm is the most at risk for MOSFET failure due to the way inductive energy spikes are generated. Of the sizes I offer, that size has the fastest response time and creates the most heat, while also drawing the most power. It uses the most energy, and it uses it rapidly, so it follows that it is more likely to suffer from a fault caused by too much residual energy. Which leads me to this...

Good news, folks: I now understand at least one significant cause of these MOSFET failures (with proof), and it looks like I can address it pretty easily (also w/proof).

I'll write up something longer tomorrow or Sunday, but this should do for now.

This is a screen shot of the oscilloscope's view of one heater MOSFET's source pin (in purple), and one power MOSFET's source pin (in yellow) when the tactile switch opens (i.e., your vapcap has clicked and you withdraw it). These are their vulnerable nodes and the ones where failure likely occurs:



The significant values: In this case, the max voltage on the heater MOSFET source pin was 34.8V in the above run, but I had other instances on the bench this evening where it went over 50V; the max spec for this pin is 40V. It can tolerate some over-voltage, but not a huge amount, and you'd like to stay further below that upper limit. Sorry I missed this until now.

This is the same setup, same measurements, but with the addition a "flyback" diode to the heater circuit, installed in reverse on one of the heater MOSFET source pins. This diode acts like a release valve and allows that spike of voltage caused by the remaining inductance energy to bleed back into the battery (which can easily absorb it) instead of frying the MOSFET:



Max voltage is down to 26.8V, and the pulse is dampened. The post-switch closing ripple in the power supply MOSFET, in yellow, is now completely gone, too.

I have some more testing to do, but so far, so good.

Just wanted to share some good news on this. Cheers

mr_cfromcali said:

I would say that all sizes are subject to the issue, but the 14mm is the most at risk for MOSFET failure due to the way inductive energy spikes are generated. Of the sizes I offer, that size has the fastest response time and creates the most heat, while also drawing the most power. It uses the most energy, and it uses it rapidly, so it follows that it is more likely to suffer from a fault caused by too much residual energy. Which leads me to this...

Good news, folks: I now understand at least one significant cause of these MOSFET failures (with proof), and it looks like I can address it pretty easily (also w/proof).

I'll write up something longer tomorrow or Sunday, but this should do for now.

This is a screen shot of the oscilloscope's view of one heater MOSFET's source pin (in purple), and one power MOSFET's source pin (in yellow) when the tactile switch opens (i.e., your vapcap has clicked and you withdraw it). These are their vulnerable nodes and the ones where failure likely occurs:

The significant values: In this case, the max voltage on the heater MOSFET source pin was 34.8V in the above run, but I had other instances on the bench this evening where it went over 50V; the max spec for this pin is 40V. It can tolerate some over-voltage, but not a huge amount, and you'd like to stay further below that upper limit. Sorry I missed this until now.

This is the same setup, same measurements, but with the addition a "flyback" diode to the heater circuit, installed in reverse on one of the heater MOSFET source pins. This diode acts like a release valve and allows that spike of voltage caused by the remaining inductance energy to bleed back into the battery (which can easily absorb it) instead of frying the MOSFET:

Max voltage is down to 26.8V, and the pulse is dampened. The post-switch closing ripple in the power supply MOSFET, in yellow, is now completely gone, too.

I have some more testing to do, but so far, so good.

Just wanted to share some good news on this. Cheers

Click to expand...

This truly is a positive development. Thank you for providing immediate feedback with the oscilloscope. Looking good man!

What is the half-life of the flyback diode, or does it not work like this? In other words, will the repeated redirection of the voltage spike to the battery eventually wear this diode down (hope this makes sense)?

Obsessed 2 said:

What is the half-life of the flyback diode, or does it not work like this? In other words, will the repeated redirection of the voltage spike to the battery eventually wear this diode down (hope this makes sense)?

Click to expand...

Here's a bit more info, for the curious: Diodes are essentially one-way gates that allow electricity to flow in one direction but not both directions. This solution uses a particular kind of diode called a Schottky diode - in particular, I will be using a 1N5817 ultra high speed rectifier diode.

The purpose of the flyback diode (it has some other names that are similarly unhelpful/nonspecific) is to allow a safe alternate path for excess inductive energy to follow. This diode is biased (oriented) so that it's bypassed in normal operation and only active when the energy follows a reverse flow.

This is a short video that does a good job of explaining how a flyback diode works, using a DC motor as an example of an inductive process:


Induction heaters are a bit different than the DC motor shown in the above video, but the principle of applying a reverse bias diode for an alternate energy path seems to work just as well with an IH once I figured out where to place it in the circuit.

I have some more testing to do to see if there any similar issues to address apart in other parts of the heating cycle, but I'm feeling pretty good today about both the diagnosis of the issue and the solution - the fix uses a single part that is very reliable, it's cheap, and I can retrofit it to any heater I have made so far, as necessary. Win-win-win!

This is the flyback diode as I'll install it on the FD. It has the shortest, most direct path possible, and it fits in the spot perfectly:



I have a few "MOSFET killing" heaters returned by customers, and I'm looking forward to getting those on the 'scope today and seeing how this solution looks with them, and if I can learn anything else from them. Barring any unusual developments or discoveries, though, I feel like I've found the solution for this issue, and that makes me very happy. I'm sure it's good news to anyone interested in one of these things, too.

Finally, there's another good thing that may come from finding the cause of this issue and resolving it this way.



Specifically, I may be able to add additional range to the temp control, as I limited its range considerably while I looked for the potential causes of this issue.

Those are some of the things I will look at today, and I should know more by this afternoon or tomorrow. I expect to begin shipping heaters again on Monday, and I am very hopeful they will be more reliable.

Unless I learn otherwise, I plan on installing this fix on all of the heaters that I'll be shipping, beginning with the next one.

More to come...

mr_cfromcali said:

I would say that all sizes are subject to the issue, but the 14mm is the most at risk for MOSFET failure due to the way inductive energy spikes are generated. Of the sizes I offer, that size has the fastest response time and creates the most heat, while also drawing the most power. It uses the most energy, and it uses it rapidly, so it follows that it is more likely to suffer from a fault caused by too much residual energy. Which leads me to this...

Good news, folks: I now understand at least one significant cause of these MOSFET failures (with proof), and it looks like I can address it pretty easily (also w/proof).

I'll write up something longer tomorrow or Sunday, but this should do for now.

This is a screen shot of the oscilloscope's view of one heater MOSFET's source pin (in purple), and one power MOSFET's source pin (in yellow) when the tactile switch opens (i.e., your vapcap has clicked and you withdraw it). These are their vulnerable nodes and the ones where failure likely occurs:

The significant values: In this case, the max voltage on the heater MOSFET source pin was 34.8V in the above run, but I had other instances on the bench this evening where it went over 50V; the max spec for this pin is 40V. It can tolerate some over-voltage, but not a huge amount, and you'd like to stay further below that upper limit. Sorry I missed this until now.

This is the same setup, same measurements, but with the addition a "flyback" diode to the heater circuit, installed in reverse on one of the heater MOSFET source pins. This diode acts like a release valve and allows that spike of voltage caused by the remaining inductance energy to bleed back into the battery (which can easily absorb it) instead of frying the MOSFET:

Max voltage is down to 26.8V, and the pulse is dampened. The post-switch closing ripple in the power supply MOSFET, in yellow, is now completely gone, too.

I have some more testing to do, but so far, so good.

Just wanted to share some good news on this. Cheers

Click to expand...

mr c, u rock....i cant wait. Awesome!

Hi all,

I knew it was too easy. I'm back with a few more turns to this MOSFET failure saga.



Development #1: I discovered my first solution (a single Schottky diode to drain the circuit via one MOSFET's source pin) did not actually solve the problem. It was an improvement over nothing, but I found that inductive spikes of >40V were still possible, and sure enough, I generated a few of those and killed yet more MOSFETs in the space of a few hours.

Back to Google.

[Time passes.]

Development #2: Eureka!! I found the correct solution:

https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=426309

Which can be summed up as: "use two 24V Zener diodes. Reverse bias them as in attempt #1. Put them in a different part of the circuit. Success!"

Here are some new before and after traces (both traces heater MOSFETS, not power MOSFETs):

Before (max volts circled in red):

After (max volts circled in red):



This one really feels like the right solution - that 2nd trace looks perfect, and a 20V load against a 40V upper limit provides for a HUGE margin of safety.

It's a bit tougher to retrofit than the first solution, but I think I have a handle on that, too.

More tomorrow - bed time now.

Cheers,

looks like you hit the bulls eye.

lookhigh said:

looks like you hit the bulls eye.

Click to expand...

I think I did, @lookhigh . I'm moving forward with this as the solution to this issue.

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
MOSFET Failure Issue - Response Matrix
I have a fix - huzzah! - but what does that mean for you?

If you are a current Flux Deluxe owner, and your has stopped working, please contact me to arrange a repair, which will include the installation of these diodes.

If you are a current Flux Deluxe owner, and your heater is working fine, please keep using it!
It isn't broken.

If your heater is currently in my shop for repair, I will install these diodes as part of the repair. The whole repair, which includes retrofitting the new diodes into your existing build () and replacing all four MOSFETS, takes an hour or so.

If you are a future Flux Deluxe owner, know that ALL heaters leaving my shop from this point forward will get this fix! I have parts coming this week and next, so it will take a few days to get the right components on hand, but this fix should dramatically improve the stability of this device.

If your heater is in the current mini-batch of 20 that I've been completing, I will apply this fix to each of these heaters before I ship them out. Although not exactly a repair, I will be retrofitting these to heaters that are already "done", which will take approximately 30-45 minutes per heater. I'm sorry for yet another delay in completing your heater, but at least this one is for a very good reason.

Going forward: I'm not waiting around. I've already revised the circuit board w/the new diodes and ordered a run of new PCBs! They'll be here in a week or so, along with the new components, and I'll start using them in production as soon as I verify they work as expected. Unlike the retrofitted diodes, the new SMD diodes will be fully integrated into the circuit board, so they won't add any additional time to the build. Just two more small components solder.

It's been a full weekend, but I have a lot to show for it, and the oscilloscope proved very useful. I feel good about this solution and think the device is in a much better place now than it was Friday. Thanks, everyone, for your support and patience while I worked through this issue. It probably won't be the last, but hopefully it plugs a big hole; I'd much rather build these things correctly than fix 'em.

That's your post-weekend/early Monday morning (Pacific time) Fluxer update, folks.

Cheers,

Yay!!! This all sounds mother-fluxin' fantastic.

mr_cfromcali said:

Hi all,

I knew it was too easy. I'm back with a few more turns to this MOSFET failure saga.



Development #1: I discovered my first solution (a single Schottky diode to drain the circuit via one MOSFET's source pin) did not actually solve the problem. It was an improvement over nothing, but I found that inductive spikes of >40V were still possible, and sure enough, I generated a few of those and killed yet more MOSFETs in the space of a few hours.

Back to Google.

[Time passes.]

Development #2: Eureka!! I found the correct solution:

https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=426309

Which can be summed up as: "use two 24V Zener diodes. Reverse bias them as in attempt #1. Put them in a different part of the circuit. Success!"

Here are some new before and after traces (both traces heater MOSFETS, not power MOSFETs):

Before (max volts circled in red):

After (max volts circled in red):

This one really feels like the right solution - that 2nd trace looks perfect, and a 20V load against a 40V upper limit provides for a HUGE margin of safety.

It's a bit tougher to retrofit than the first solution, but I think I have a handle on that, too.

More tomorrow - bed time now.

Cheers,

Click to expand...

Hi everybody! Here a spanish combustion fucker!
I´m so happy to see you solve the problem! Have been following the thread for a long time and waiting my turn to get my 14mm fluxer( wich i think is the best for hass and resin , anyone with some feedback?) hope you continue working like this, cause it's amazing how you show us in such an opnened way, all the work/faliure explanation and the work status.

Cheers! and if anyone come to VALENCIA don't doubt, we will fill some dynavaps!

I'm loving my 14mm, I am pretty sure I chose the right size. I use my Fluxer with concentrates with the Dyna Coil and it heats it quick and hot. I think I like that over the 16mm which arguably would soak flower better, but for high heat hits with some decent shatter or snap/pull, I like the 14. To be fair I haven't tried a 16.

Mine is hitting great, so glad I jumped on this. Stay tuned, it's going fishing with me in a few days!

I'm more than happy to wait for a safe and working fluxer. Thank you for putting in so much time and work to make these the best they can be and looking out for your customers!

Loving my 14 mm coil, no problems with it at all...until I tried to install a temporary heat shield as directed earlier in the thread. There's a reason I pay other people to do stuff like this for me. Apparently I messed something up because I couldn't get it to heat up. mr_c was very responsive and gave me a couple suggestions but no go. I sent it back for repairs and all the current safety upgrades and decided to swap to a 15 mm coil.

We got it back last Friday, the turnaround time was incredible, fantastic customer service! We're still getting used to it but so far it's working exactly how we hoped. It's noticeably slower than the 14 mm coil, I'm still adjusting to the extra heating time, but the hits seem to be more thoroughly heated. It's along the lines of cooking something on the stove on medium vs medium-high heat. It takes a bit longer but the added time lets the heat penetrate everything a little bit better. I'm a bit of a flavor chaser, too, generally hitting before the click, so slowing it down is a bit more forgiving.

So yeah, we love it. My wife said having it back feels like a luxury. Huge thanks, @mr_cfromcali! Great IH, great service. We really appreciate it.

Moses Baca said:

Loving my 14 mm coil, no problems with it at all...until I tried to install a temporary heat shield as directed earlier in the thread. There's a reason I pay other people to do stuff like this for me. Apparently I messed something up because I couldn't get it to heat up. mr_c was very responsive and gave me a couple suggestions but no go. I sent it back for repairs and all the current safety upgrades and decided to swap to a 15 mm coil.

We got it back last Friday, the turnaround time was incredible, fantastic customer service! We're still getting used to it but so far it's working exactly how we hoped. It's noticeably slower than the 14 mm coil, I'm still adjusting to the extra heating time, but the hits seem to be more thoroughly heated. It's along the lines of cooking something on the stove on medium vs medium-high heat. It takes a bit longer but the added time lets the heat penetrate everything a little bit better. I'm a bit of a flavor chaser, too, generally hitting before the click, so slowing it down is a bit more forgiving.

So yeah, we love it. My wife said having it back feels like a luxury. Huge thanks, @mr_cfromcali! Great IH, great service. We really appreciate it.

Click to expand...

Great to hear! I have a 15mm ordered to compliment my 14mm, hell im sure I’ll have some crazy custom enclosure built someday and have a 14, 15 and 16mm coil all in one .
I dropped my 14mm unit and broke the glass partially. It still works just the same but I’ll send it in after I receive the 15. I have found if I use a large grind and pack it medium into a Ti tip(that was overheating with loose medium/fine) the 14mm coil works great for me! Three pretty strong hits and done.

Hi all - as always, thanks for your patience. My life has been very busy recently and has included some travel, which takes me away from the shop. This has all been for good (!) purposes, but even good things take time and energy, and this has squeezed my Fluxer time even more than usual.

So, without further ado, some Fluxer updates:

The new parts I have been waiting for finally arrived, so I will resume shipping new heaters this week! It will begin as a trickle, but I'm working on some improvements to my process (described below) that I hope will speed things along more quickly in the future.

Current orders: Several weeks ago I contacted about 20 folks and told them their heaters were going to be "next". I had almost completed those heaters when I discovered the true cause of the MOSFET failures, etc. - last month's all-consuming "MOSFET Saga." Anyway, I put those heaters aside while I familiarized myself with the new oscilloscope and what it could tell me about my heater's issues, etc. I learned a lot, and now that I have answers (and diodes), I will begin adding these new diodes to the these heaters, testing them, and then shipping them. I will try to get through several each day until they are all completed. Adding diodes to these 20 heaters and shipping them out is my first order of business.

Once this current batch is finished, I will be switching to a new PCB that incorporates the new diodes, so I no longer need to add them by hand later in the process. I'll have more to say about the new PCB soon, after I make sure it works as expected.

In a companion move, last night I ordered one of the reflow solder oven kits @maxvapor710 mentioned back in this post. This requires assembly, and it will be a few weeks until the parts arrive and I am able to build it, but once this is up and running I will be able to SMD solder six PCBs at at time, with greater speed and much more consistency. There's more to building these heaters than just this one type of soldering, but this step does take time and could be done indirectly (i.e., by an oven), so it's good spot in the process to make an improvement.

Bottom line: I am trying to make these better, and also look for ways to increase my output without sacrificing quality, my non-project time, or breaking the bank. We'll see how I do.

The Flux Deluxe Waiting List: Thanks to everyone who is interested in getting one of my heaters! The list is pretty long at the moment, and my progress is excruciatingly slow, so...please, find a comfortable chair and put your feet up, as it is going to be a while.

As long as these things work (an important caveat!) and people still want them, I am happy to continue to build them until everyone who wants one can get one. It will take me a while, but sometimes that's the way it goes. The waiting list is not yet in legendary King of Tone territory (more King of Tone info for the curious), but if anyone is looking for a comparison, the world of boutique electric guitar effects pedals may provide one.

That's about it for now. I'll post more about the new PCB soon, after I have a chance to vet it.

Cheers,

Those who are waiting, it's worth it! I'm absolutely loving the hell out of my heater. I was actually back to using my torch and dab rig for a while, but now the Dynavap with Dynacoil is just so enjoyable to use with my Fluxer. It goes days before needing a charge, I'm impressed. I think induction heat is a fitting way to heat concentrates, it seems to give the vapcap the right heat without cooking too much. I don't know how to explain it but it's been awesome so far.