TC Box Mods Firmware Discussions and Customizing

bossman said:

I'll have to try that. Thanks for sharing.

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Easywider said:

I took a screenshot of some settings and a brief explanation @analytika had posted when I had first ordered my dna c. These were for the splinter.

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fluffyBollocks said:

another question I did not find a definite answer for:

when using FC share / evic, can the box mod still be used for "normal" liquid tanks (at least in wattage mode if not TC)?

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Easywider said:

Yes, both of those firmwares will allow multiple profiles. You could have one calibrated for a splinter another for ejuice another for a wax rda etc.

The FCSHARE is basically an index of dry herb attachment profiles for DNA mods. For me this is one of the biggest attractions/benefits of using a DNA mod. Someone ( @HerbieVonVapster ) has taken the time to carefully craft profiles that take these devices to the next level. Makes life easy buy a dna, install profile, and your rollin.

Having these profiles also gave me the confidence to start editing and tweaking them because I know if I mess up some settings I can just download the same profile again and be right as rain in minutes.

Sometimes this happens more then once a day

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roberto1155 said:

Hey guys I am having an issue with sur_myevic and was wondering if anyone could help me out. I have a Wismec RXG3D running build 190220 version 1.11 of sur_myevic (running a splinter z btw). I usually run it in TCR mode, but recently when ever I go to fire it in TCR, it kicks me back to VW mode. After that it is stuck in VW mode and won’t let me change to any other modes. Has any one encountered this before? I have try to reinstall the software many times but it eventually just does the same thing. Thank you for any help in advance

Ps - has anyone used the site fasttech.com before? They have good prices on mods but was not sure if they could be trusted.

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roberto1155 said:

Ps - has anyone used the site fasttech.com before? They have good prices on mods but was not sure if they could be trusted.

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Easywider said:

Yes, both of those firmwares will allow multiple profiles. You could have one calibrated for a splinter another for ejuice another for a wax rda etc.

The FCSHARE is basically an index of dry herb attachment profiles for DNA mods. For me this is one of the biggest attractions/benefits of using a DNA mod. Someone ( @HerbieVonVapster ) has taken the time to carefully craft profiles that take these devices to the next level. Makes life easy buy a dna, install profile, and your rollin.

Having these profiles also gave me the confidence to start editing and tweaking them because I know if I mess up some settings I can just download the same profile again and be right as rain in minutes.

Sometimes this happens more then once a day

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roberto1155 said:

I was looking at a lost vapes tirade that I might pick up, I’ll defiantly check out the forum.

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HerbieVonVapster said:

it's easy to exchange custom material on the forum too so if find something that works feel free to share it.

Here is a DJLSB version 3.5 as example. Copy paste to text editor save as .CSV then import into materials Opposite to share one.



"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-58,0.92304515838623
68,0.999991774559021
212,1.11998772621155
302,1.14999651908875
392,1.18998205661774
482,1.25498795509338
572,1.28699994087219
800,1.37298059463501

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"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-40.0000,0.9347440000
68.0000,1.0000000000
122.0000,1.0300000000
212.0000,1.0800000000
302.0000,1.1260000000
392.0000,1.1680000000
482.0000,1.2070000000
572.0000,1.2460000000

Easywider said:

Thanks for this! I just learned how to create material files with "wire wizard" wish I had found this when I had my Stempod I just generated files for 316SSL 20gauge 9 wraps 3.5 ID if anyone is running this build on Stempod you can use the following material file.

Code:

"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-40.0000,0.9347440000
68.0000,1.0000000000
122.0000,1.0300000000
212.0000,1.0800000000
302.0000,1.1260000000
392.0000,1.1680000000
482.0000,1.2070000000
572.0000,1.2460000000

I have some wax atomizers running some custom coils that I just paired with some DNA mods can't wait to start testing some custom materials @HerbieVonVapster what would the DJLSB file be used for ?

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Alex3oe said:

I read about this issue somewhere, but can't remember if here or in evolv forums or Reddit maybe. So please don't blame me if it was answered here already.
Flashed newest fcshare on my DNA250c. Now when I try to change profile with a warm coil (different ohms) I stuck in a loop. Neither Yes nor No or Measure Again works. Is this a bug in a new evolv firmware and/or can be fixed by settings?

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HerbieVonVapster said:

EDIT the profiles do not have cold OHM in them. I try remove them to force a remeasure the first time someone uses the device. That way its not using my cold OHMs. You can enter your cold OMH manually from top of that screen. Sorry about the confusion there.

Let me see if I can recreate error and if any thing in new upload changed. What services pack are you running?. The issues a new service fix on the 250c in the most recent version. I use international version of this on the mac.

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Alex3oe said:

Please don't apologize, your a hero here, doing so much for community, sharing DNA profiles for different mods and helping people

It seems you're absolutely right and the problem is caused by an 0 ohms setting in one (or more? or the current active?) profile. I can remember, I did a "Measure Ohms" with my Splinter Z on the mod at each profile before uploading the last time. Doing this again with the new firmware fixed the problem.


Thanks once more @HerbieVonVapster

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Shit Snacks said:

Sorry if this is easy to find I just figured I'd ask real quick here, @HerbieVonVapster do your profiles work with the hcigar VT75 nano already? I am only used to how it works with the bronze RX250 and was hoping it would be similar... Can't thank you enough for all you do here!

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HerbieVonVapster said:

My suggest is to download the DNA250 and open it without it connected to the Hcigar nano. Save the theme (if you like it). The profiles will work with it.

Since the case thermal and mod resistance will be different and it's a one battery mod. I would not use the DNA250 file. I would search out the nano correct mod resistance and also run case analyzer on it. Then add the theme and the FCSHARE profile. Increase maxs puff too 20 seconds. I also increase the OHM lock range to 33% precent.

This should give you the best performance if you run into any problem I can toss one together for the DNA75 but doing the above will work better and suggest that route. I don't know the case thermal and doing the steps above will work better than me using the stock evolv case thermal. If you can't find the mod resistance of the nano use evlov stock of 0.004.


Did a quick search for this info... but suggest double checking the info in post below. Figure thou I'll post link as a place to start.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/hcigar-vt75-nano.756943/page-3

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Shit Snacks said:

Lost me at the first sentence. All I did for my 250 was load your profiles in escribe, Then connect and upload to the RX? Then select the profile on the mod and that was it... I don't know anything about the themes but I like what it has? The black FC animation and stuff?

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Shit Snacks said:

Also I did not know a mod had resistance itself? I used the cold resistance for my RX and locked it was all. I do have my CuboidMini running Tubo and my G3D running Sur to see cold resistance there, but I do not know how you can set it manually on the DNA... I know how to use the mod pretty well now, but not the software on the computer at all lol

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Shit Snacks said:

Also I did not know a mod had resistance itself? I used the cold resistance for my RX and locked it was all. I do have my CuboidMini running Tubo and my G3D running Sur to see cold resistance there, but I do not know how you can set it manually on the DNA... I know how to use the mod pretty well now, but not the software on the computer at all lol

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HerbieVonVapster said:

Yes the theme is the startup FC animation etc. The ideal of FCSHARE is to save the average new user the hassle of figuring out the software.



Okay... Mod resistance...

First, let's look at the power controlled case only. Then we'll extend that to temperature protection.

From the output of the board, there are several resistances in series that make up the load. First you have the wires running to the connector. Then you have the connector body itself. Then you have the interface between the connector and the atomizer. Then you have the atomizer body, then the connection between the atomizer and the coil. Then and only then do you actually get to the coil.

All these elements have some resistance, and resistances in series add up. So, you might have

Output wires: .002 ohm
Connector body: .001 ohm
Connector contact resistance: .002 ohm
Atomizer body: .003 ohm
Atomizer contact resistance: .002 ohm
Coil: .10 ohm

So the total resistance would be .108

However, we really only care about the heating power coming out of the coil, not the power being wasted in the wires or the connector.

So to get 100 watts out of the coil, we need I^2*.10 ohm = 100 watts. So we need 31.6 amps of current to get a true 100 watts out of the coil.

However, to get that 100 watts at the coil, we need to have the board put out more power, to account for the losses through all the stuff that isn't coils. We know we need 31.6 amps, so the total power we have to put out in this case is 31.6^2*.108, or 108 watts.

So in this case, power controlled only, we need to put out an extra 8 watts to get our 100 out. If your mod resistance is correct, the DNA will handle this automatically. And yes, this means that in certain circumstances the board will be putting out significantly more than 200 watts.

That's all good from a power standpoint (except that we have to make a board capable of more like 250 watts total output) but in temperature mode, it is a bit more nuanced.

With temperature protection, we're looking for a rise in resistance relative to the known cold resistance. With mod resistance, we assume that the mod resistance isn't heated meaningfully.

With nickel 200, a doubling of resistance corresponds to about 412 degrees. So if we have a mod resistance of .008 and a cold coil resistance of .10, for a total resistance of .108, the following happens:

If we have a 0.0 mod resistance setting, it will assume the entire cold resistance is the coil. So for a temperature setting of 412 degrees, it will have a limit resistance of .216 ohms.

However, we know in this case that .008 of that isn't the coil. We'll further assume that everything is well constructed and massive enough to not heat up much in operation. That means that our limit resistance's .216 ohms is really .208 ohms at the coil and still .008 ohms in the non-coil stuff. So for a setting of 412F, you are really getting a coil temperature of 430F.

With a proper mod resistance setting, it will only be looking for a rise in resistance of the actual coil. So a setting of 412 will actually be 412.

So, the temperature you are getting is closer to the temperature you have set with the mod resistance on. Unfortunately, it is more accurate in a "weaker, cooler vape" direction. To get the same experience as one would have had with a 412 degree setting without mod resistance, you would have to turn the temperature limit up to what you were actually getting before, in this specific case 430 degrees.

Hope that makes sense.



I set cold ohms in escribe for the DNA250 here are only setting I think can be done from the device.


Modes

Locked mode: Pressing the fire button five times with less than .7 seconds between presses will cause the device to enter Locked mode. In Locked mode, the device will not fire and the output power will not adjust accidentally. While in Locked mode, the screen will be off, except that pressing a button will show“Locked, Click 5X”. To exit Locked mode, press the fire button 5 times.

Stealth mode: While locked, holding the fire and down buttons simultaneously for five seconds will switch to stealth mode. In this mode the display is off. It will still show error and lock messages. To switch back to normal display mode, hold down the fire and down buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds. This setting is stored to internal flash memory, and remains if power is removed.

Power Locked mode: Holding down both the up and down buttons for two seconds will place the device in Power Locked mode. In this mode, the mod will operate normally, but you will not be able to change the power setting. This mode prevents accidental power level changes due to the buttons being pressed while in a pocket. To exit Power Locked mode, hold the up and down buttons for two seconds.

Resistance lock: The DNA 250 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance. To do so, while locked hold both the Fire and Up buttons for two seconds to enter Resistance Lock mode. In this mode, the DNA 250 will use the present atomizer cold resistance without refinement until the atomizer is disconnected or the resistance lock is disabled. A lock symbol will replace the ohm symbol on the display. To disable resistance lock, repeat the procedure to lock it.

Max Temperature Adjust: From Locked Mode, holding down both the up and down buttons for two seconds will place the device in Max Temperature Adjust mode. Once this mode is entered, the max temperature will be displayed. The up and down buttons are used to adjust the max temperature. To save the new temperature setting and exit, press the Fire button.

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usern@me said:

There is one board sensor measuring the innards of the entire enclosure. The board, the batteries within, the enclosure. How fast it all heats and cools. When you run the 'Thermals', the first thing asked is Room temp. It knows the board temp, and now the room temp, so now you can calculate the room temp whenever you want from the board temp.
The reason it takes so long is because people will plug and unplug USB cables, have batteries at different voltage levels, and charging rates. Batteries also heat up as they're being charged. There are different charging techniques employed as the battery gets near to full. All those are tested during Thermals, values written into escribe .............. then taking what it needs into account, you end up with a calculated/derived room temp.

During a session, in DM you'll see the board temp rise, room temp should not. As soon as you plug in a cable, you'll see the room temp jump, and it'll slowly decrease (based on the written values) back down to the actual room temp.

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