Dabpress Rosin Plates

psychonaut

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
voxdei said:
I see, thanks. So any hardwood can handle 20 tons, eh?

A couple of other questions if I may:

Is attaching a pressure gauge, like the Dabpress 10000# unit, simply a matter of attaching it
inline with an air/hydraulic piston? (Teeing off the threaded base, below the air inlet, for the following.)

https://express.google.com/product/..._u=RKQPTXM5VMCZEOQ&ouid=109152746609152953166

It seems to me that dp-pm4007s puck press would be a better match than dp-pm3015r for the
dp-rp37 caged plates. If so, may I pay more to get that substitution?

Sorry for my confusion! :)
Click to expand...

I would choose a strong hardwood like cherry or hickory, check here to compare. The 20 tons applied will be spread along the entire base of the 3x7" caged plate, so the 40k lbs would be distributed to around 1500 PSI on the plank, if my math's right.

Our pressure gauge kit is designed to be used in a hydraulic system. I am not certain how you would identify the pressure delivered by hydraulics through the pneumatic line, that is gonna be whatever pressure you have coming from your compressor which should change the amount of pressure delivered per pump. I think you would need to have a fabricator install a port in the side of the bottle jack and install an elbow adaptor for the gauge.

If you wanna make a substitution, please send our sales team an email - support@dabpress.com they will work with you to get you setup.
 
voxdei

voxdei

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all your help psychonaut,

Sorry for all the noob questions. The whole concept/process is new to me.

I'll write to the sales team as you suggest but I do wonder, since you are experienced, if you agree
that the rectangular puck press is a better match for the 3x7 plate? (assuming one has plenty of material)
 
psychonaut

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
voxdei said:
Thanks for all your help psychonaut,

Sorry for all the noob questions. The whole concept/process is new to me.

I'll write to the sales team as you suggest but I do wonder, since you are experienced, if you agree
that the rectangular puck press is a better match for the 3x7 plate? (assuming one has plenty of material)
Click to expand...

For 3x7" plates, I think the 40mm pre-press mold is probably a better choice, you can run side by side filters with 10-14g in each, that mold is compatible with the 2.5" wide filters. I personally have a preference for the bottle tech style, as I like using more of the vertical space inbetween the plates vs the surface area when laying them flat. I use less overall force that way for the same amount of flower.
 
agentcooper

agentcooper

Member
psychonaut said:
Those were back in the high pressure days, probably was using a lot more than necessary. 1000 PSI is a good spot for yields and efficiency, I believe in that video it was more in the 1500-1750 PSI range.

Sweet! Thanks for your business, you are going to have a lot of fun with your press :science::clap:

Your figures are perfect IMO. You can go -/+ 200 PSI from there. When I first started, I was applying so much pressure my filters were blowing out, then when I got a gauge I was just overpressing because I was still learning, then after all the research on the internet, trial and error, discussion with customers, friends and forums, dropped the pressure down gradually to 1000 PSI and difference in yields is there, but I am fairly certain I'm pressing minimal unwanted compounds, so now a days all my rosin is very good, and whatevers left in the pucks go to my edible stash which never seems to shrink :lol:
Click to expand...

That makes sense!
I will give it a start at 1000 and play from that point.
:)
 
btka

btka

Well-Known Member
have a question got my hydraulic pump today and I pushed down the front of the tube and some liquid (oil) came out... hope I did not damage the pump... seems like the liquid in the manometer also got a little bit less..

Hope I will get today also my press...
do I will need some extra things to couple the pump with the press...
and how I am coupling the pump with the press?
 
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psychonaut

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
btka said:
have a question got my hydraulic pump today and I pushed down the front of the tube and some liquid (oil) came out... hope I did not damage the pump... seems like the liquid in the manometer also got a little bit less..

Hope I will get today also my press...
do I will need some extra things to couple the pump with the press...
and how I am coupling the pump with the press?
Click to expand...

Can you show a picture of where the oil came out? Usually the glycerin in the gauge is not filled all the way, there will be an air bubble in the gauge.

I would recommend to remove the fitting on the end of the hose and replace it with the one that is included with the press, just to make sure the pairing is perfect in the coupling.

Pairing the pump's hose to the press should be as simple as finger tightening the quick couplers.

Done!
 
btka

btka

Well-Known Member
I do not have any clue about such pumps...

when I received the pump today... I pumped alittle bit of air in it... and wondered why there is no air coming out (I am so stupid and have no clue) ... then I pushed on the valve on the tube and a little bit of oil went out...

I also did not get a manuall with my pump... so I searching the internet... and found this it is not the manuall of my pump:

https://www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manuals/46274.pdf

also should I have to do a Air Purge Procedure to remove any air that may have been introduced into the hydraulic system asa result of product shipment and handing. This step is to be completed without any load pressure. ?

How does this pump work? http://www.pro-lift-montagetechnik.com/Hydraulikpumpe-650bar-600cm-Oeltank-Manometer-T-00907

And also a member said I have to be cautious with this pump especially regarding high pressure injection accidents...

how do I remove the fitting on the endof the hose and replace it? do I need a teflon tape or something else?

that is where the liquid came out after I pushed in the valve:



https://imgur.com/a/6soQG9H
 
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gunmetalshark

gunmetalshark

Glass Addict
And also a member said I have to be cautios with this pump especially regarding high pressure injection accidents...


I didnt mean with the pump but with using a high pressure hydraulic system in general, never leave the press under pressure while not in use and dont touch any part (hose, valve, etc. searching for leaks i.E.) with bare hands while under pressure :)

I am pretty sure your gauge didnt loose any liquid :)
 
psychonaut

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
btka said:
I do not have any clue about such pumps...

when I received the pump today... I pumped alittle bit of air in it... and wondered why there is no air coming out (I am so stupid and have no clue) ... then I pushed on the valve on the tube and a little bit of oil went out...

I also did not get a manuall with my pump... so I searching the internet... and found this it is not the manuall of my pump:

https://www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manuals/46274.pdf

also should I have to do a Air Purge Procedure to remove any air that may have been introduced into the hydraulic system asa result of product shipment and handing. This step is to be completed without any load pressure. ?

How does this pump work? http://www.pro-lift-montagetechnik.com/Hydraulikpumpe-650bar-600cm-Oeltank-Manometer-T-00907

And also a member said I have to be cautious with this pump especially regarding high pressure injection accidents...

how do I remove the fitting on the endof the hose and replace it? do I need a teflon tape or something else?

that is where the liquid came out after I pushed in the valve:



https://imgur.com/a/6soQG9H
Click to expand...

Ahh, I see, so you depressed in on the ball valve in the end of the hose, it's normal that fluid would come out at this spot. When that is fully installed into the coupler on the cylinder, it opens the hydraulic line to allow fluid to travel between the pump and cylinder. As long as you didn't let too much oil leak out, it's fine. By too much I mean like 30ml.

Some pumps have a bleed valve, others don't. If your pump doesn't have a seperate bleed valve from the release valve, just open the release valve 1/3 of a turn and let it sit for 15 minutes before your first press. That should allow any air that's in the line move out of the system. After that time, just close the release valve and begin your press.

To remove the fitting on the end of the hose, you need a couple of wrenches, I like crescent wrench for easy adjusting. Make sure you have the hose upright so when the fitting is removed fluid doesn't spill. Then yes also some teflon tape to seal the threading prior to installation.

As long as you have that fitting teflon taped (3 wraps) and tightened down all the way after you replace it, there will be no issues with leaking. All of the equipment should be rated for 10000 PSI working pressure, and 15-20000 PSI burst rating.

Finally, when the pump is connected to the cylinder, the quick couplers are just finger tight, no teflon tape is needed here.
 
ColoVaper

ColoVaper

Science...Whoo!
Had to share my Xmas Cookies press from last night. 14g of flower pressed and 3.6 grams of beautiful rosin in return. I think I’m going to go grab a oz of it today before it’s gone to hold on to. My best return and best looking rosin to date.

bjd17p.jpg
 
hd_rider

hd_rider

Well-Known Member
How do you folks get your rosin to come out so 'buttery'?

I have a dp-bj3t33 press and every time I've used it, my product has come out rather dark and thick, almost like a shatter.

I've only been using my press a short time so I have little to no experience with it. Based on what I've seen in this thread and on YouTube, I've been pressing around 1.0 to 1.5 grams at a time, pressed into a puck using a pollen press, but not using any filters. I've been running at 200 degrees with an approximate press time of about two minutes.

Plus I've found my rosin very difficult to work with; it literally sticks to everything it touches, including my dab tools, making it very hard to remove. What I've had to do is put my dab tool in the freezer for a few minutes after I've scraped up all my rosin off the parchment paper. Then I can literally chip or break off the rosin from my tool into my storage container.

Does that mean too much pressure? Too much time? Too much heat?
 
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JohnnyMauser

JohnnyMauser

Well-Known Member
hd_rider said:
I have a dp-bj3t33 press and every time I've used it, my product has come out rather dark and thick, almost like a shatter.
Click to expand...

I have the same, i really thing it depends on the strain and how strong you press. It gets darker if you press too strong because of the plant material you press into your rosin.

I Press on Oil-Slick-Paper, i pressed on raw parchment too, bagless. Cooling the oil down helps a lot, you can put the whole thing in freezer or use a cold plate (frozen pizza, better some metal)

I Storage on the folded oil slick paper, i have silicon and glass containers also, but i mostly use parchment/oil slick for that. (store in fridge, in tupper)

edit: ah you already got the freezer thing, sorry. :) And something eat some of the text. If i remember right temps are for consistency.
 
buckhakeesah

buckhakeesah

Well-Known Member
I think it mostly depends on the quality of the flower. Ive had runny to very tacky rosin and ones that butter up as its being squished. Color varied from translucent to light and to dark amber. All pressed at 205 C.
 
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ColoVaper

ColoVaper

Science...Whoo!
hd_rider said:
How do you folks get your rosin to come out so 'buttery'?

I have a dp-bj3t33 press and every time I've used it, my product has come out rather dark and thick, almost like a shatter.

I've only been using my press a short time so I have little to no experience with it. Based on what I've seen in this thread and on YouTube, I've been pressing around 1.0 to 1.5 grams at a time, pressed into a puck using a pollen press, but not using any filters. I've been running at 200 degrees with an approximate press time of about two minutes.

Plus I've found my rosin very difficult to work with; it literally sticks to everything it touches, including my dab tools, making it very hard to remove. What I've had to do is put my dab tool in the freezer for a few minutes after I've scraped up all my rosin off the parchment paper. Then I can literally chip or break off the rosin from my tool into my storage container.

Does that mean too much pressure? Too much time? Too much heat?
Click to expand...

I’ve noticed when I press over 195 it gets darker and stickier. I use a thick aluminum plate I keep in the freezer to collect when needed. I prefer to press either 180-185 and it almost always comes out budder at least by the next day. The one yesterday was 185 at 2 minutes. A friend brought some really rough outdoor over awhile back, think swag, and we pressed it at 200. It came out really dark sticky stuff. I didn’t think it was going to produce, but we got about 12% return! She gave me half of it and this is what is left. She is trying to get me to press the rest. We’ll see...so maybe try a bit lower temp and I’ve learned not to crank down too hard on the pump.

eki79c.jpg
 
Chandler

Chandler

Well-Known Member
I looked up goldbuds. The Durban poison from phyto 2.0 is live resin. I'm l going to research resin when I get home, but is resin solvent less? How does rosin compare to resin?

*edit
Ordered the Durban poison. Also the killer queen, grapefruit, and lemon cake! A little quick research n resin is from fresh plant material and has the best flavor?
 
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anda1anda2

anda1anda2

Well-Known Member
Bruce Banner #3 at 195F for 2min15sec. This stuff was packaged earlier this week, so fresh starting material. 23% first press and another 3% of a very useable 2nd press.

I’ve been ending my last couple presses closer to 2 rather than 3 minutes and have continued to have decent yields, so will probably stay with the shorter presses for now.
 
CastIronHits

CastIronHits

Slightly Crispy
Chandler said:
I looked up goldbuds. The Durban poison from phyto 2.0 is live resin. I'm l going to research resin when I get home, but is resin solvent less? How does rosin compare to resin?

*edit
Ordered the Durban poison. Also the killer queen, grapefruit, and lemon cake! A little quick research n resin is from fresh plant material and has the best flavor?
Click to expand...

My understanding is that live resin is a solvent extract from fresh material. It has higher concentrations of uncured terpenes than rosin because rosin is likely to come from whole cured buds. The upside to live resin is the incredible fresh flavor they can capture, which is also the downside for people with sensitivities to "harsh" simple terpenes. The rosin we press will have also have more fats than live resin with the exception of newer "mechanical sifting" techniques that allows producers to remove just glandular heads for pressing (Blue River.)
 
invertedisdead

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Live rosin is the closest equivalent to live resin. The main requirement for either is that the starting material must be fresh frozen. Since you can't press wet flowers, live rosin denotes hash rosin, so less waxes/lipids, and higher potency and terpenes generally, than flower rosin.

To me hash rosin just has a punch that I haven't found in other concentrates.
 
Vapor Loop

Vapor Loop

Well-Known Member
hd_rider said:
How do you folks get your rosin to come out so 'buttery'?

I have a dp-bj3t33 press and every time I've used it, my product has come out rather dark and thick, almost like a shatter.

I've only been using my press a short time so I have little to no experience with it. Based on what I've seen in this thread and on YouTube, I've been pressing around 1.0 to 1.5 grams at a time, pressed into a puck using a pollen press, but not using any filters. I've been running at 200 degrees with an approximate press time of about two minutes.

Plus I've found my rosin very difficult to work with; it literally sticks to everything it touches, including my dab tools, making it very hard to remove. What I've had to do is put my dab tool in the freezer for a few minutes after I've scraped up all my rosin off the parchment paper. Then I can literally chip or break off the rosin from my tool into my storage container.

Does that mean too much pressure? Too much time? Too much heat?
Click to expand...







I have the same press and only go that high for second a squish. I go all the way down to 155 for 2:30-3:00 min for a first squish if i wan't to cure nice terp filled butter overnight on a 160 micron. I can still get butter of a consistency i don't care for on 90 and 45 micron screens all the way up to around 185 for 2:00-2:30 depending on pressing material.
 
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